The resort of Parga, in Epirus in the west of Greece, is one of the most popular along the Ioanian coast, with several beaches and waterfront seafood tavernas.
Parga in Epirus
There are several good beaches both in and close to the town, a choice of numerous excellent waterfront fish restaurants, and easy access to Dodoni (a 75-minute drive), Ioannina (90 minutes, passing Dodoni on the way), and even the Zagorian villages and the Vikos Gorge (about an hour north of Ioannina). You’ll need your own transportation to get to all these places.
Red House in Parga in Epirus
Parga as a Base
Parga makes a good base as there are also ferried from here to the lovely little island of Paxos, from where you can then take a ferry to Corfu. It’s also only an hour from the airport at Preveza, for international charter flights. You can also get to Athens from Ioannina National Airport.
You can also of course spend an enjoyable week or two at Parga without visiting anywhere else, if you enjoy a lazy beach holiday and relaxing in the evening in different tavernas. Everything considered, and given how attractive it is as well, it’s not surprising that Parga is so popular. If you plan to visit in the middle of summer, you should definitely book ahead.
Parga
Parga History
For all its appearance as a simple beach resort town, Parga has had a fascinating history. At one end of the harbour, that’s lined with restaurants and shops, is an imposing Venetian fortress, built in 1624, as a date over one of the gates indicates. You can see the symbol of Venice, the Lion of St Mark, carved into one of the walls in the keep.
The town was conquered by the Turks but then taken by the Venetians at a time when the Turkish Empire dominated most of modern Greece. The British then captured it from the Venetians, and in 1819 sold it back to the Turks, where it came under the control of Ali Pasha in Ioannina. Under his despotic rule, many of the Parga natives went into exile on Corfu, the families only returning when Parga became Greek again in 1913.
Parga
Parga Town Beach
Beyond the headland where the fortress stands is one of the town’s best beaches, a long sandy stretch, and there are several more to both the east and west of the town centre.
Parga in Epirus
Parga Town
In the town itself, look for a mix of dazzling whitewashed houses, and brightly-coloured ones. The whitewashed houses have dabs of vivid colour from numerous bougainvillea, hibiscus and morning glory plants that cascade down from walls and balconies. Here too are the small hotels, more restaurants, and the souvenir shops that all mark it out as a tourist resort.
Outside the high season from about June to early September, these back streets are pretty enough to retain their Greek picture-postcard charm.
The Zagorian Villages and Vikos Gorge in the Pindus Mountains of northern Greece are popular for hiking, and for their scenic beauty and historical traditions.
Vikos Gorge
A 45-minute drive north of Ioannina in Epirus, as you head towards the Albanian border, you come to Zagori (or Zagoria) and the Vikos Gorge, one of the most intriguing regions of northern and western Greece. Forty-six Zagorian villages, with their own distinctive architecture and culture, are linked together by a network of centuries-old paths that make for ideal walking through the superb scenery of the lower Pindus Mountains.
Vikos Gorge
The Vikos Gorge in the Pindus Mountains of Greece
One of the great natural features of the area is the Vikos Gorge, which runs for 7 miles (12 km) and is only 2 miles (3 km) shorter than the Samaria Gorge on Crete. In places its walls rise 3,117 feet (950 m) sheer from the ground, while elsewhere the gorge opens out to flower-filled meadows, with the opportunity to swim in the Voidhomatis River at the right times of the year.
If you are reasonably fit and have arranged transport and accommodations, it is possible to walk the gorge in one day. Walkers need to be extra careful as the gorge is nowhere near as busy as the Samaria Gorge and is relatively free of other walkers. Travelling at the best times, in early and late summer, you may see only a handful of other people so a twisted ankle or dehydration could become a serious problem.
Winter in the Vikos Gorge
The Vikos Gorge at Sunset
In winter the gorge may not be passable, and the same applies in April and May when the mountain snows melt and turn the trickling rivers into thundering torrents which fill the base of the gorge in places. Always take local advice on conditions, and let people know where you are planning to walk.
The Zagorian Villages
Icon Workshop in Monodendri in Zagoria in Epirus
It would take at least a week just to begin to explore this region. The Zagorian villages are fascinating, and the history and the landscape are richly intertwined. Today’s cultural wealth is partly a result of the region’s past poverty. The harsh landscape made it hard for people to scrape a living here, and many were forced to seek work abroad and send money to their families left behind.
The Turks who ruled from Ioannina, about 30 miles (48 km) to the south, granted Zagori autonomy so that the steadily-growing wealth from abroad was largely retained, and used in the 18th and 19th centuries to build houses known as archontika. These are modest in size for mansions, but certainly grand in comparison to the average mountain home. Some are derelict and romantically crumbling, some are still lived in, while others have been restored for use as museums or guesthouses.
This corner of the Pindus Mountains is not thickly wooded, so the mansions are mostly built from the local limestone, with slate roofs. Often there is space for livestock on the ground floor, and a walled yard. They give a very distinctive look to these small villages: fewer than 4,000 people live permanently in Zagori, one of the most sparsely-populated parts of Greece.
Some of the villages are now deserted and some have just a handful of families supporting themselves by agriculture, but others prosper from the increasing tourism in the area. They are popular with hikers, mountaineers, and the more curious and adventurous travellers. The best bases for exploring are the main villages of Monodendri, Tsepelovo, and the twin villages of Megalo Papingo and Mikro Papingo. They all have guesthouses, restaurants, and small shops, and you can usually find a walking guide to hire, if you wish. If you don’t have a car, you can reach these villages on the local bus from Ioannina.
Hiking the Zagorian Paths
The pathways that connect the various Zagorian villages are best enjoyed in the spring when the paths, which are usually no more than a thin covering of gravel, become carpeted with wildflowers.
Zagorian Bridges
Stone Bridge in Zagoria in Epirus
Be warned that the trails are narrow, and the bridges along the way are equipped with bells which alert those about to cross them of any extremely high winds. The bridges are hump-backed with no sides, so can leave hikers exposed to high winds. The bridges are ancient, built by traders who had to cross the region during the spring melt when flooding was common. Some of these precarious stacks of stone don’t look like they could survive a gust of wind, much less the erosion of the centuries. One of the best-preserved – and most-photographed – is the Kalogeriko Bridge near Kipi.
The best time of year to hike the trails is from about April to October. In late summer the Alpine flowers are still blooming but there are autumnal charms too, with cool breezes and mellow colours.
Stone Bridge in Zagoria in Epirus
The paths are somewhat rough. Boots, or at the very least good walking shoes, are a must. There are many different routes but it is best to hire a local guide. The paths are poorly marked, and some are not marked at all.
For the most part, accommodations in the villages are usually limited to small inns or bed-and-breakfasts, but you can find a good choice from cheap to expensive on places including Airbnb. Each of the main villages has several family-owned tavernas and restaurants
The town of Metsovo stands at Greece’s highest mountain pass, between Ioannina and the plains of Thessaly, and has historic mansions and a distinctive cuisine.
Mountains near Metsovo in Epirus, Greece
To travel from the plains of Thessaly into the region of Epirus involves a drive over the highest road pass in the country, which is 5,599 feet (1,707 m) high and often closed in winter.
Nearby is the lovely mountain town of Metsovo, full of character and atmosphere, reflecting the independent spirit of these tough people who live high in these hills. Some are settled Vlach nomads, although a few hill dwellers still retain the old nomadic lifestyle.
Metsovo is very much on the tourist trail as it’s a ski resort in the winter and popular with hikers in the summer, though it has still lost none of its charm. It has a permanent population of only about 3,000 people, and the drive here, in whichever direction, is one of the best drives in Greece though you can also get here by bus from Ioannina, Kalambaka (near Meteora), or Trikala.
View from Metsovo in Epirus, Greece
Metsovo History
Metsovo has a rich history dating back to at least 1380 AD, when it was first mentioned as a small settlement of shepherds. Its strategic location on the main passes between northern and southern Greece became crucial to its development.
Under Ottoman rule, from the mid-15th century until 1912, Metsovo often held special privileges, particularly after 1430 and again in 1659. These privileges were granted in exchange for guarding mountain passes and allowed the town a degree of political and economic autonomy, effectively creating an autonomous “federation” with nearby villages. This led to significant prosperity, especially from the 18th century onward. The Vlach (Aromanian) speaking population became known as successful merchants and traders, establishing commerce networks across the Balkans and Europe.
View of Metsovo in Epirus, Greece
This wealth funded the establishment of schools, churches, and public works, and Metsovo became the birthplace of influential National Benefactors like Georgios Averoff and Michael Tositsas, whose philanthropy greatly supported the Greek state. Despite suffering destruction during an uprising in 1854, the town’s economy boomed in the mid-19th century. Metsovo was finally liberated by the Greek army during the First Balkan War on October 31, 1912.
In the modern era, the legacy of the benefactors, particularly the establishment of the Baron Michael Tositsas Foundation in 1948, has been key to preserving its cultural heritage and developing its economy, focusing on local traditions like woodcarving, cheesemaking, and winemaking.
Metsovo Cuisine
Breakfast at the Katogi Averoff Winery in Metsovo
The cuisine of Metsovo is rich, hearty, and deeply connected to its pastoral, Vlach heritage and mountainous setting. It is most famous for two exceptional products: cheese and wine.
The town is the birthplace of the renowned Metsovone, a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) smoked semi-hard cheese, traditionally made from cow’s milk with a small percentage of sheep’s or goat’s milk. Other local cheeses to try include Metsovela and a local graviera.
Meat features heavily, often roasted over a spit, with local specialties like savory kontosouvli (large pieces of seasoned pork) and unique local sausages, sometimes flavored with wine or Metsovone cheese. Another staple is the wide variety of pies (pites), which are central to Epirot cuisine, often filled with wild greens, cheese, or meat.
Metsovo Wine
Katogi Averoff Winery Vineyards near Metsovo
Metsovo is also home to the Katogi Averoff Winery, famous for cultivating Greek and international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon in its high-altitude vineyards, making its local wine a perfect pairing for the robust mountain fare. Dishes often feature local ingredients like wild mushrooms, butter (as olive oil is less common in this climate), and the traditional pasta, trachana. They also have accommodation.
The Metsovo Folk Art Museum offers a fascinating glimpse into the culture and wealthy history of the mountain town of Metsovo, Greece. Housed in the rebuilt 17th-century Tositsa Mansion, it was one of the first projects of the Baron Michael Tositsa Foundation, opening in 1955.
The museum is designed as an “open museum,” showcasing rich collections in their natural setting within the manor’s rooms, stables, and parlours, allowing visitors to experience the organization and function of a traditional Metsovo archontiko (mansion).
Key exhibits include:
Traditional wood-carved furniture, textiles, and gold-embroidered costumes.
Silverware, decorative items, and everyday household utensils.
A significant collection of 15th to early 20th-century icons and Byzantine metal items.
Weapons and swords from the Greek War of Independence in 1821.
The third floor is dedicated to the life and political career of Evangelos Averoff-Tossizza, a major benefactor who oversaw the mansion’s reconstruction and the foundation’s work in revitalising Metsovo. The museum provides a vivid, experiential history lesson about life in this prosperous Epirus region.
The Averoff Museum of Neohellenic Art (Averoff Gallery) is one of the most significant museums for modern Greek art in the country.
Overview and History
The museum was founded by Evangelos Averoff-Tossizza (a prominent politician, writer, and descendant of the town’s great benefactors) to fulfill his wish of establishing a high-quality art institution in his hometown. Inaugurated in 1988, the three-story building and its initial collection of 200 works were donated to the Evangelos Averoff-Tossizza Foundation. An expansion in 1994 significantly augmented the exhibition spaces and collection.
Collection and Focus
The permanent exhibition primarily showcases representative works by major Greek painters and sculptors of the 19th and 20th centuries. The collection includes over 700 paintings, sculptures, drawings, and prints and is considered one of the most complete and important collections of this period in Greece.
Visitors can admire masterpieces by renowned artists such as Nikolaos Gyzis, Nikephoros Lytras, Konstantinos Volanakis, and Yannis Moralis. The museum frequently organizes temporary exhibitions and holds a prominent place in the cultural life of the Epirus region.
A Thing of Beauty by Peter Fiennes describes ‘Travels in Mythical and Modern Greece’ and places the Greek Gods in the context of modern-day Greece.
A Thing of Beauty by Peter Fiennes
Here at See Greece we’re suckers, of course, for travel books about Greece. Our shelves are sagging with them. They include classics like Patrick Leigh Fermor, Lawrence Durrell, and Henry Miller, to more recent must-read titles like Eurydice Street and Wild Abandon. To this list can be added A Thing of Beauty by Peter Fiennes, an evocative and informative book whose sub-title sums it up: Travels in Mythical and Modern Greece.
You would therefore expect his new book about Greece to shine when it comes to the nature writing, and it certainly does, though that is only one part of its multi-faceted appeal. It’s for anyone interested in the Greek Gods and their myths, the Greek countryside and wildlife, Greek politics and history, climate change and sustainable living, whether there’s any hope in the world today… and how many Greek salads can one man eat? If you’re interested in more than one of those topics, it’s definitely the book for you.
Travels in Greece
It’s the theme of the Greek myths which holds the book together, though, as the author travels around the country visiting the places where some of the more famous myths are said to have occurred.
Beginning in Athens and ending in Epirus, via a drive around the Peloponnese, the author retells those myths as well as talking to present-day Greeks – some in pre-arranged meetings and others by chance – and asking everyone the question he’s most curious about: is there hope? It’s a serious question although the book itself is far from sombre, as the author has a light touch and is very funny in places.
Lord Byron
In fact the book begins not in Athens but in Nottinghamshire in England. At Newstead Abbey, to be exact, the ancestral home of George Gordon Byron, 6th Baron Byron, better-known to the world as Lord Byron, poet and Grecophile. The author’s travel plans were scuppered, or at least delayed, by the outbreak of Covid, so he takes the chance to go and see Lord Byron’s home.
And it’s thanks to this that we get a hugely entertaining chapter about Byron and his family, filled with salacious details, leading up to his love affair with Greece. Well, he’d had every other kind of love affair, why not with an entire country?
And while Covid is initially an impediment, it turns out to add what was probably an unexpected dimension to the book. After all, it’s not in the least bit far-fetched to look upon the pandemic as a curse brought down on mankind by the Gods above, Greek or otherwise. This is another theme the author skilfully weaves into the tapestry of his story.
On the Road in Greece
Renting a car, and leaving his wife and son behind after a few family days, the author drives around Greece visiting such places as Eleusis, Corinth, Mycenae, Epidavros, Olympia, Delphi (where he encounters an online Oracle), Messolonghi (where Byron, or at least a bit of him, is buried), and ultimately to the wilds of Epirus, a majestic landscape threatened by voracious oil developers and by fracking.
Lost and Found
While dealing with the immortal (well, some of them) and almighty Gods, the author proves himself to be all-too-human, and very self-deprecating with it. He manages to get lost while hiking, stumbling across German nudists on a beach, and when he has treated himself to a decent hotel for the all-important visit to Delphi, he ends up in the worst room in the building, with the smell of tobacco and the sound of conversation – which is seldom whispered in Greece – both wafting in from a ventilation shaft of some kind.
Epirus
For me the book builds to the best part, towards the end, where the author visits Epirus. Here he meets up with an ornithologist contact, Julian Hoffman, who lives in Prespa, and we’re treated to sightings that show just how rich parts of Greece are in birds and other flora and fauna. Even the ornithologist is impressed by what they see in the Ambracian Gulf, a stone’s throw, literally, from the airport at Preveza which brings holidaymakers in by the charter-flight planeload throughout a normal summer.
In this section I learned where I’m definitely going to eat if I ever find myself in Mitikas, just outside Preveza: the Doctor of Hunger steakhouse, it has to be. It’s also in Epirus, at the Monastery of Rodia, that the author and his ornithologist companion meet an eccentric elderly Greek man named Costas, who for some reason seems to be gathering cyclamen. As they’re about to leave, Costas hands them a bunch of cyclamen and tells them with great feeling: ‘Remember what men are here for. It is to share stories about the things that matter.’
It’s a wonderful summing-up of what’s important in life, and Peter Fiennes should be proud of himself that in his book he has done just that. He’s shared stories about things that matter.
This walk in Ali Pasha’s Ioannina also takes in the city’s main museums, the citadel, and a ferry ride to the island of Nissi to visit the Ali Pasha Museum.
Ferry on Lake Pamvotis in Ioannina in Epirus
You may be forgiven for thinking in some parts of Ioannina that you have somehow wandered into a Middle Eastern city, or at any rate a Turkish one. Five hundred years of Turkish rule have left a significant legacy. No one had more impact on the city than the evil ruler Ali Pasha, and this walk takes in some of the sites associated with him, beginning with the citadel from where he ruled with an iron fist.
Fethiye Mosque and tomb of Ali Pasha in Ioannina in Epirus
Start at Ioannina’s Citadel
The walk begins at the main entrance to the citadel, which is the second entrance through the thick fortress walls on your right as you walk down Karamanli from Plateia Neomart Yioryiou. A small shrine is in the wall beside the entrance. Go through the entrance and turn immediately left along Ioustinianou. You will pass on your right the Old Synagogue, which isn’t open to the public. This was built in 1790. At one time Ioannina had a big Jewish community which dated back to the 13th century, but only a few dozen Jewish people survived World War II.
Red Scooter in a Back Street in Ioannina in Epirus
Aslan Pasha Tzami Mosque
Continue along Ioustinianou till the end, where it bends to the right and leads you towards the Aslan Pasha Tzami mosque. This contains the Municipal Ethnographic Museum of Ioannina. The other rooms around the courtyard are not open to the public, and it was in these that one of the worst episodes of Ali’s tyrannical rule took place. He raped the mistress of his eldest son, then threw her and seventeen other women into the lake in weighted sacks so that they could not reveal his dreadful crime.
Aslan Pasha Mosque in Ioannina in Epirus
Ioannina’s Byzantine Museum
On leaving the mosque by the way you came in, turn left to resume the walk. Keep to the left, just inside the citadel walls, and ignore the sign that directs you to the lake through a gateway. Instead, carry on ahead and through the entrance gates into the inner citadel. On the left is a cafe and the building ahead of you is the Byzantine Museum, with the Fethiye Tzani (not open to the public) to its left, in front of which is the probable tomb of Ali Pasha. The museum’s Silverwork Hall annex is over to your right, housed in what was Ali Pasha’s Treasury building.
Lake Pamvotis in Ioannina in Epirus
Ferry to the Island
Return to the gate that gives access to the lake and take the steps down to the lakeside, turning left until you reach the departure point for the ferries to the island of Nissi (whose name simply means ‘island’). The little ferryboats sail back and forth every 30 minutes in summer, and every hour in winter, from 8am-11pm, though always check in case timetables have changed. Take the ferry across to the island. No doubt you’ll be in the company of a few other visitors, but for the most part with islanders returning from their errands.
Lake Pamvotis in Ioannina in Epirus
Ioannina Walk: Around Nissi
On reaching the island, turn left to walk through a small network of streets, following the signs that direct you to the Ali Pasha Museum. It has an interesting collection of Ali Pasha’s artifacts, and you can see the holes left by the bullets that killed him. You can read the details on our Ioannina page.
From the museum you can continue on and take the path that goes all the way round the island, which is surrounded by reed beds and has abundant wildlife, especially birds. There are lovely views across to the Pindus Mountains, and back across the lake to Ioannina, although in places you will be unaware of the busy city’s existence. Carry on along the path, where you might see fishermen mending their nets, until you return to the ferry quay for the boast back to Ioannina… or perhaps first enjoy a meal at one of the excellent fish tavernas on Nissi.
Ioannina is the capital of Epirus in North-West Greece, located by Lake Pamvotis and noted for museums and galleries, a castle, and a tradition for silversmiths.
Ioannina in Epirus
The slim minarets of Ali Pasha’s citadel poking above the lakeside trees are a distinctive feature of this beautiful regional capital, the largest city in Epirus. Idyllically situated on the shores of Lake Pamvotis, with the Pindus Mountains on the far side beyond the delightful lake island of Nisi (the name simply means ‘the island’). Ioannina is a lovely place to spend a few days or even more.
Ioannina and Ali Pasha
Ali Pasha
It’s wise not to make any complimentary remarks around here about Ali Pasha, the murderous tyrant who dominated the city from 1788 until his death on the island of Nissi in 1822 (see below), for even after all these years local feeling still runs high.
Ioannina was under the Turkish yoke for almost 500 years, the longest and blackest spell in Greek history, and Turkish influence has survived here more strongly than in many other places. Yet the name of Ali Pasha is inextricably entwined in the city’s history, whether the present citizens like it or not.
Under the Ottomans, Ioannina flourished as a center for arts and crafts, most notably for silversmiths. Even today, silver from Ioannina is considered to be among the finest in Greece, and you can still find a few craftsmen working in cramped workshops in the back streets, producing exquisite and intricate creations.
Silversmithing in Ioannina
Samples of some of the best silversmithing can be seen in the annex to the city’s Byzantine Museum, which is inside the citadel and contains excellent and well-explained collections of Byzantine art. Next to the Byzantine Museum is the Fethiye Tzami, or Victory Mosque, which isn’t open to the public. In front of this stands the unmarked and untended grave of Ali Pasha.
Aerial View of Ioannina in Epirus
Ioannina Archaeological Museum
The Archaeological Museum of Ioannina in Epirus, Greece, offers a fascinating journey through the region’s history, with over 3,000 artifacts spanning a vast period from the Lower Paleolithic (around 250,000 years ago) to the late Roman times (3rd century AD).
Paleolithic Era to Roman Times: The collection starts with some incredibly ancient relics, including 120,000-year-old fossilized rhinoceros teeth and stone tools from the earliest human settlements in the region (from sites like Kokkinopilos, Asprochaliko, and Kastritsa). It then moves through the Neolithic, Bronze Age, Geometric, Archaic, Classical, Hellenistic, and Roman periods.
Highlights from Dodoni: A significant portion of the museum is dedicated to findings from the archaeological site of Dodoni, one of the most important sanctuaries and oracles of the ancient Greek world. This includes:
Lead tablets from the oracle: These are particularly intriguing, as they bear the actual questions posed by pilgrims to Zeus and his consort Dione.
Architectural elements and inscriptions from the sanctuary.
Daily Life and Culture: The displays offer insights into the daily life, religious practices, and artistic traditions of the inhabitants of ancient Epirus. You’ll see:
Pottery and ceramics (including beautifully crafted vases).
Exquisite marble sculptures and fragments of ancient Greek and Roman sculptures.
Intricate jewelry.
Intricate mosaics
Tombs and funerary artifacts, providing a glimpse into burial customs.
The Byzantine Museum in Ioannina in Epirus
Ioannina’s Other Museums and Galleries
The Silversmithing Museum (Piraeus Bank Group Cultural Foundation)
Focus: This is the most popular art museum in Ioannina, given its historical significance to the city. Ioannina has been renowned for centuries for its silversmithing tradition.
Displays: The museum showcases the technology and artistry of silversmithing from the Post-Byzantine era onwards. You’ll see a stunning collection of finely crafted objects, including ornate jewelry, weapons, household silverware, and religious artifacts.
Experience: It’s housed within the Citadel of Ioannina (specifically in the Its Kale fortress), in a beautifully restored stone chamber that once housed the castle kitchens. It uses interactive presentations, audiovisual materials, and even simulated sounds to bring the craft to life.
Municipal Art Gallery of Ioannina
Focus: This museum is dedicated to modern Greek art.
Displays: It houses a permanent collection of over 500 works by Greek artists, including paintings, prints, and sculptures. The collection spans from the academic style of the Munich School through Impressionism and Humanism to more contemporary Greek art. Notable artists include Nikolaos Gyzis, Georgios Jakobides, Yannis Tsarouchis, and others.
Setting: It’s housed in the Pyrsinella Mansion, a beautiful neoclassical building dating to around 1890, which adds to the aesthetic experience.
Activities: The gallery frequently hosts temporary exhibitions and cultural events.
Folklore Museum “Kostas Frontzos” (Society for Epirotic Studies)
Focus: This museum is dedicated to Epirotic folk culture and traditional art.
Displays: You’ll find a rich collection of rare items representing the traditional life and customs of Epirus. This includes beautifully ornamented traditional costumes (especially elaborate female costumes worn by Ioannina noblewomen), exquisite jewelry (made with famous Ioannina techniques like hammering and filigree), traditional textiles and embroideries, household items, tools, furniture, and even weapons.
Setting: It’s located in a charming 19th-century Ottoman manor house, which provides an authentic backdrop for the exhibits.
Historical Context: The museum also has memorabilia related to the liberation of Ioannina from Ottoman rule, including flags and the sword of Essad Pasha.
Lake Pamvotis in Ioannina in Epirus
Lake Pamvotis
The other essential visit when you’re in Ioannina is to Nissi, the charming island on the far side of Lake Pamvotis. Nissi (or Nisi) is simply the Greek word for island. It’s reached by a regular ferry service that runs all day long, and into the evening, and leaves from the lakeshore under the citadel walls. There’s one small, straggling village on the island where people make a living from fishing or tourism.
It’s a wonderful experience to sail across and have lunch or dinner in one of the excellent lakeside fish tavernas. If going for dinner, check the time of the last boat back. Note that most of the fish served in the restaurants comes not from the lake but from fish farms in the mountains. It doesn’t mean it isn’t top quality, but the lake could never provide enough fish to satisfy the demand. What does come from the lake and surrounding area is a dish you don’t find on many Greek restaurant menus: frogs’ legs. Frogs are so abundant locally that they are even exported to France.
Lake Pamvotis in Ioannina in Epirus
A trail goes all the way round the island, which makes for an enjoyable short walk. Because Nissi isn’t developed, it’s still a good place for wildlife. Walk around the island and you might see and hear nightingales, reed buntings, kestrels, a variety of water fowl… and frogs, of course!
Look for signs to the island’s only cultural attraction, the Ali Pasha Museum, inside the Monastery of Pantaleimon. The monastery was built in the 16th century but the present building is a modern reconstruction, the original having been demolished by a falling tree. It was in here that Ali Pasha was assassinated but not, as you might suppose, by local Greeks. He was killed by Turks from Istanbul. Ali’s own rulers had become concerned at the power and wealth he had accumulated, and his ambition to create an independent state.
Ferry on Lake Pamvotis in Ioannina in Epirus
Ali was besieged in the citadel in Ioannina but somehow managed to escape to the island in the lake, taking refuge in the monastery. Unsympathetic locals gave away his hiding place, and with Ali hiding upstairs the Turks shot up through the floorboards from downstairs to kill him. The bullet holes can still be seen. Ali was then beheaded and his head sent to the Sultan in Istanbul to prove that the mission had been accomplished. It is a violent past, in stark contrast to the peaceful nature of the lake and the island today.
