See Greece recommends where to stay in Northern Rhodes with hotels and apartments in Faliraki and elsewhere from 5-star luxury to family-friendly.
Porto Angeli Beach Resort Hotel
Where to Stay in Northern Rhodes
Afandou
Oasis Hotel and Bungalows
Oasis Hotel
Both bungalow and studio-type accommodations are available at this medium-size hotel. It’s well-suited to families, and quite handy for local beaches. Facilities include a swimming pool, with a separate pool for children, and there are large gardens filled with shady palm trees. It has a golf course right next door and iss on the east coast, a 30-minute drive south from Rhodes Town.
This luxury resort-style hotel offers good facilities, with its own stretch of beach, two pools, and three children’s pools. It’s on the east coast, a 40-minute drive south of Rhodes Town. There are rooms and suites, some with sea views and others with mountain views. Some have private pools. There are several restaurants and bars, a disco club, spa, entertainment, fitness centre, and lots of sports and activity options.
This large, modern beach-front hotel is especially designed for family holidays. It offers every facility, including three pools, three restaurants, five bars, a beach, tennis courts, mini-golf, and volleyball. For youngsters there are numerous attractions and organised activities. It’s on the east coast, a 20-minute drive south from Rhodes Town.
This is another of the island’s modern superior 5-star resort hotels. It’s on the north-west coast of the island, a 20-minute drive west of Rhodes Town. There are various rooms and suites available, including family suites, some with sea views, some with garden views, and some overlooking the impressive pool. It has its own beach, daily live music sessions, a spa, a gym, and several bars and restaurants including Greek, Italian and Asian cuisines.
This huge, luxury 5-star hotel is noted for its conference facilities and for hosting international meetings, and is probably the best hotel on the island. It has all the facilities that you would therefore expect, and a choice of rooms, suites and bungalows. It has numerous restaurants and bars, pools, a beach, a wellness and fitness center, sporting activities, and special programs for children. It’s conveniently-located on the north-west coast, just a 5-minute drive from Rhodes Town and a 20-minute drive from the airport.
This small and pleasant hotel has palm trees and gardens out front. It has its own pool, with a children’s pool too, and a playground. There’s also a pool bar, bar-lounge, and a restaurant. It’s a 40-minute drive south from Rhodes Town, on the east coast.
This is a very smart and beautifully-located hotel, entirely on its own. It caters well for families and has a swimming pool, a children’s pool, and a playroom. Other amenities include a restaurant serving both breakfast and dinner buffet style, a snack bar, and a cocktail bar. It’s to the south of Faliraki and about a 30-minute drive south from Rhodes Town on the east coast.
This walk through the Old Town of Rhodes takes you through this World Heritage Site and along the main streets and past the city walls, palaces and mosques.
Rhodes Old Town in the Dodecanese
The Old Town of Rhodes is a World Heritage Site, yet many visitors only see the few main streets that are lined with souvenir shops no different from anywhere else in Greece. Yet there are many fine monuments, and quiet back streets, not to mention the stunning fortifications of the Old Town, all to be admired, and easily done on a short walk.
Mandraki Harbour
Windmills at Mandraki Harbour in Rhodes Town
Begin at either side of the entrance to Mandraki Harbour, the narrow channel where it is commonly believed the Colossus of Rhodes once stood, a leg on each side. There is no historical evidence for this, and while there may have been a colossal statue it’s thought that it more likely stood near the Temple of Apollo, which was where the Palace of the Grand Masters is now situated. See our page on Mandraki Harbour.
Eleftherias Gate
Walk along the harbour front with the town on your right-hand side, and with the walls of the Old Town ahead of you. Cross the busy street at the first set of traffic lights but carry on walking in the same direction, under some trees and past some kiosks, till you reach the Eleftherias Gate. The name means Liberty and the gate takes you through the imposing walls, which date back to 1330 and in places are 12m (39 ft) thick. They are almost perfectly preserved and run for 4km (2.5 miles) around the Old Town.
The Street of the Knights
Walk straight ahead along Apellou, passing on your left the remains of the Temple of Aphrodite and on your right the Tourist Information Office. Immediately after the tourist office turn right onto Ippoton, otherwise known as the Street of the Knights, one of the most impressive sights in the Old Town.
The Street of the Knights was built in the 14th century and is lined on either side with what were the Inns of the Tongues. These Inns were the meeting places for the different nationalities of the Knights of St John, and on your right further up the street you will pass the Inn of Italy and the Inn of France, while on the left is the Inn of England and the Inn of Spain, amongst many others. The Inns today house government and private offices, as well as foreign embassies.
Palace of the Grand Masters
At the top of the street on your right is the entrance to the Palace of the Grand Masters, where the 19 Grand Masters of the Knights of St John would meet to run their affairs. The original Palace was built in the 14th century but was destroyed in an accidental explosion in 1856. What you see now is a faithful restoration carried out by the Italian rulers of Rhodes in the 1930s. It is well worth touring to see the wonderful central courtyard and the many fine mosaic floors.
Mosque of Suleiman
If saving your visit to the Palace of the Grand Masters for later, carry on past the Palace to the very end of Ippoton and turn left along Orpheus (Orfeos), past the souvenir shops, cafes and restaurants. Where the road swings round to the left you will see on the left the 1523 Mosque of Suleiman, and opposite on the right the Ottoman Library. Turn right after the Library, down Ippodamou, which gradually takes you away from the tourist part of the Old Town into a quieter area.
To Plateia Sokratous
At the far end of Ippodamou follow the road round to the left and at the first junction turn right. This takes you temporarily outside the town walls, giving you a chance to admire them. They are more impressive and easily seen here. Go through the Agiou Athanasiou Gate, turn left along the main road, and take the next left back into the Old Town through the Koskinou, or Gate of St John. Turn left at the first t-junction and follow Pithagora, which takes you all the way to the bustling Plateia Sokratous, where there are several excellent restaurants and cafes, with grandstand views of the passing crowds.
Best 5-star hotels in Athens including Grande Bretagne, King George, Electra Metropolis, AthensWas and Four Seasons Astir Palace.
King George Hotel Athens
The Best 5-Star Hotels in Athens
Athens is a city where ancient history and modern luxury sit side by side. Staying in a 5-star hotel here isn’t just about comfort—it’s about waking up to views of the Acropolis, wandering into Plaka for dinner, and having world-class museums and rooftop bars right on your doorstep. Below are five of the very best 5-star hotels in Athens, each offering its own style of luxury, from grand historic elegance to sleek contemporary design and coastal resort glamour.
1. Hotel Grande Bretagne
Hotel Grande Bretagne Athens
Few hotels in Europe carry the sense of occasion that the Hotel Grande Bretagne does. Sitting proudly on Syntagma Square, this landmark property has been welcoming royalty, heads of state, and discerning travellers since 1874. Inside, it feels like stepping into a grand European palace: crystal chandeliers, marble staircases, antique furnishings, and impeccable service at every turn.
Many of its rooms and suites offer direct views over the Acropolis, especially magical at sunset when the ancient citadel glows above the city skyline. The rooftop restaurant and bar is one of the most iconic dining spots in Athens, combining fine dining with arguably the best panoramic view in the city.
The spa, located in the hotel’s atmospheric lower floors, includes a subterranean pool set beneath vaulted ceilings that feel almost Roman in style. Service is highly polished and discreet, with a strong emphasis on tradition and detail.
This is the hotel for travellers who want classic luxury, historic gravitas, and a front-row seat to Athens’ most important square.
Right next door to the Grande Bretagne, the King George offers a more intimate but equally refined experience. Housed in a neoclassical building overlooking Syntagma Square, this hotel blends understated elegance with modern luxury. It’s quieter and more boutique in feel, but still very much at the heart of Athens’ political and cultural centre.
The rooms are beautifully designed in soft tones, with marble bathrooms, elegant furnishings, and thoughtful touches that reflect a contemporary interpretation of classical Athenian style. Many suites open onto balconies with sweeping views across the square and toward the Acropolis.
The Tudor Hall Restaurant on the upper floors is a major highlight, offering fine dining paired with one of the best rooftop views in the city. In the evening, the atmosphere becomes especially atmospheric as the city lights shimmer over the Parthenon.
Service here is attentive and discreet, with a focus on personalisation rather than grandeur. It’s ideal for travellers who want luxury in a quieter, more refined register while still being steps from Athens’ main attractions.
The Electra Metropolis brings a distinctly modern edge to Athens’ luxury hotel scene. Located just a short walk from Syntagma Square and the Plaka district, it sits in a prime position for exploring the historic centre on foot.
What makes this hotel stand out is its rooftop terrace, which features a stunning infinity pool overlooking the Acropolis. Few city hotels anywhere in Europe can match this view. At night, the illuminated Parthenon feels almost close enough to touch.
Inside, the hotel is sleek and contemporary, with clean lines, warm lighting, and tasteful Greek-inspired design elements. Rooms are comfortable and well-equipped, with many offering direct Acropolis views. The spa and wellness facilities are modern and well-regarded, offering a calm retreat after a day of sightseeing.
Dining is another strong point, particularly at the rooftop restaurant, which combines Mediterranean cuisine with one of the most dramatic backdrops in Athens.
This is a great choice for travellers who want a balance of location, modern luxury, and unforgettable views.
The AthensWas Design Hotel is a boutique 5-star property that appeals to travellers who appreciate contemporary design and cultural immersion. Located on Dionysiou Areopagitou Street—one of the most atmospheric pedestrian avenues in Athens—it sits directly beneath the Acropolis, steps from the Acropolis Museum.
The hotel’s design is minimalist yet warm, drawing inspiration from mid-century modern aesthetics and ancient Greek forms. Rooms are elegant and uncluttered, featuring natural materials, marble bathrooms, and floor-to-ceiling windows in some suites.
A standout feature is the rooftop restaurant, where guests can dine while enjoying uninterrupted views of the Acropolis. It’s particularly striking in the evening when the monument is fully illuminated and the pedestrian street below becomes lively with locals and visitors.
Service is personalised and attentive, with staff offering strong local knowledge for exploring museums, galleries, and hidden neighbourhood gems. The atmosphere is more intimate than the larger grand hotels, making it ideal for couples or independent travellers seeking style and location over scale.
This hotel is particularly appealing to those who want to feel immersed in Athens’ cultural heart.
Set along the Athenian Riviera in Vouliagmeni, the Four Seasons Astir Palace offers a completely different experience from central Athens luxury hotels. This is a sprawling coastal resort, surrounded by pine trees and the deep blue waters of the Saronic Gulf.
The property is divided into two main sections: Arion and Nafsika, both offering beautifully designed rooms and suites, many with sea views and private terraces. The design is modern, airy, and deeply connected to its coastal setting, with natural tones and open spaces that emphasise relaxation.
Dining is exceptional, with multiple restaurants offering everything from fine Mediterranean cuisine to relaxed beachfront dining. The beach clubs and private coves give guests direct access to the sea, making it feel more like a luxury island resort than a city hotel.
The spa is one of the best in Greece, offering extensive wellness treatments, hydrotherapy, and serene relaxation areas overlooking the water.
Although it is about 30–40 minutes from central Athens, many travellers choose it for the combination of resort luxury and easy access to the city’s cultural attractions.
This is ideal for those who want a luxury escape with beachside tranquillity alongside Athens sightseeing.
Discover Elounda, Crete: beautiful beaches, history, things to do, and day trips to Spinalonga, setting of The Island by Victoria Hislop.
Elounda
Situated on the north-east coast of Crete, around 12 kilometres from Agios Nikolaos, Elounda is one of the island’s most attractive and sophisticated holiday destinations. Renowned for its crystal-clear waters, stunning views across Mirabello Bay and luxurious hotels, Elounda combines traditional Cretan charm with modern comforts. Although it has become famous for its exclusive resorts and celebrity visitors, the town itself remains a relaxed fishing village with welcoming tavernas, small shops and an authentic Greek atmosphere.
Whether you are looking for a peaceful beach holiday, fascinating history or opportunities to explore eastern Crete, Elounda offers something for everyone.
A Brief History of Elounda
The area around Elounda has been inhabited since ancient times. In antiquity, the region was home to the prosperous city-state of Olous, one of the most important settlements in eastern Crete. Olous flourished during the Classical and Hellenistic periods thanks to its strategic location and thriving maritime trade.
Today, parts of the ancient city lie submerged beneath the sea between Elounda and the Kolokytha Peninsula. In calm conditions, visitors can sometimes see remains of ancient walls beneath the water.
During the Venetian era, the nearby island of Spinalonga became an important defensive fortress protecting the entrance to the Gulf of Elounda. Later, under Ottoman rule, it developed into a small settlement before becoming one of Europe’s last leper colonies in the early twentieth century.
Modern Elounda remained a quiet fishing community until tourism began to develop during the 1970s. Since then, it has grown into one of Crete’s most prestigious resorts while retaining much of its traditional character.
Exploring the Town
The waterfront in Elounda
Elounda itself is centred around a picturesque harbour lined with fishing boats and waterfront cafés. The atmosphere is considerably quieter than some of Crete’s larger resorts, making it particularly appealing to couples and families.
The town square contains numerous tavernas serving traditional Cretan dishes such as grilled octopus, fresh fish, dakos salad and slow-cooked lamb. In the evenings, visitors can enjoy leisurely meals overlooking the sea while watching the sun set behind the mountains.
Small supermarkets, souvenir shops and bakeries provide everything holidaymakers need, while several bars offer live music and cocktails without the loud nightlife associated with resorts such as Malia or Hersonissos.
Walking along the waterfront promenade is one of Elounda’s simple pleasures. The views across the bay towards the mountains and the island of Spinalonga are spectacular, especially during the golden light of early evening.
Where to Stay in Elounda
Beaches Around Elounda
Elounda boasts several excellent beaches with calm waters ideal for swimming and snorkelling.
Elounda Beach, close to the town centre, is family-friendly and well equipped with sunbeds and cafés. Nearby, Skisma Beach offers shallow waters and easy access from many hotels.
For those seeking quieter surroundings, the beaches around the Kolokytha Peninsula are among the most beautiful in Crete. A short drive or boat trip leads to secluded coves with turquoise waters that are perfect for relaxing away from the crowds.
Water sports including paddleboarding, kayaking and sailing are readily available during the summer months.
Things to Do in Elounda
Fishing boats in the harbour of Elounda
Although many visitors come simply to relax, Elounda provides plenty of opportunities for exploration and activities.
Take a Boat Trip
Daily excursions depart from the harbour to nearby islands and secluded beaches. Glass-bottom boats allow passengers to see underwater remains and marine life, while larger excursion boats offer swimming stops and lunch cruises.
Visit Agios Nikolaos
Agios Nikolaos
Only a 15-minute drive away, Agios Nikolaos is one of eastern Crete’s most attractive towns. Visitors can stroll around Lake Voulismeni, browse shops and enjoy lively cafés and restaurants. See our full page on Agios Nikolaos.
Discover Traditional Villages
Picturesque mountain villages such as Kritsa and Fourni offer a glimpse into traditional Cretan life. Narrow streets, Byzantine churches and local tavernas provide a welcome contrast to the coast.
Explore Ancient Sites
History enthusiasts can visit the ruins of ancient Lato, one of the best-preserved Doric cities in Crete. Situated among the hills, it provides magnificent views over Mirabello Bay.
Enjoy Water Sports and Diving
The clear waters around Elounda are excellent for diving and snorkelling. Several diving centres offer courses for beginners and excursions for experienced divers.
Day Trips to Spinalonga
Spinalonga island off Elounda in Crete
No visit to Elounda is complete without a trip to the island of Spinalonga. Located just offshore, this small island possesses one of the most fascinating histories in Greece.
Boat services operate regularly from Elounda harbour and nearby Plaka. The crossing takes only around twenty minutes.
Spinalonga was originally fortified by the Venetians in 1579 to protect the Gulf of Mirabello. Massive walls and bastions still surround the island and provide spectacular views over the sea and surrounding mountains.
Following the Ottoman occupation, Turkish families settled on the island. However, Spinalonga is best known for its role as a leper colony between 1903 and 1957. Patients suffering from Hansen’s disease were isolated there, creating a self-sufficient community complete with homes, shops and churches.
Today, visitors can wander through the atmospheric streets, examine restored buildings and learn about the island’s remarkable story. Information panels and guided tours help bring the history to life.
The island has become one of Crete’s most popular attractions and receives visitors from all over the world.
Spinalonga and The Island by Victoria Hislop
Spinalonga gained international fame through the bestselling novel The Island by British author Victoria Hislop. Published in 2005, the book tells the story of several generations of a family connected to the leper colony on Spinalonga.
Although fictional, the novel draws heavily upon the real history of the island and vividly recreates life within the isolated community. The book became a huge success and introduced many readers to Crete and the tragic yet inspiring story of Spinalonga.
Its popularity significantly increased tourism to Elounda and the surrounding area. Many visitors are inspired to make the journey after reading the novel, keen to see the island that forms the backdrop to such a moving story.
Greek television later adapted the book into a highly successful series, further cementing Spinalonga’s place in popular culture.
Why Visit Elounda?
Elounda offers a combination that few resorts can match. Beautiful scenery, calm beaches, luxury accommodation and fascinating history come together to create one of the finest destinations in Crete.
Whether you spend your days relaxing by the sea, exploring ancient ruins, enjoying Cretan cuisine or visiting the haunting island of Spinalonga, Elounda provides an unforgettable experience. It is equally suited to romantic holidays, family breaks and travellers interested in discovering the rich culture and history of Crete.
Best hostels in Athens including Athens Backpackers, City Circus, Hub Hostel, Bedbox, Acropolis Studios and more central stays.
Athens Backpackers Hostel
The Best Hostels in Athens
Athens is one of Europe’s most rewarding cities for budget travellers. You don’t need to spend much to stay right in the historic centre, many cheap hostels are within walking distance of the Acropolis, Monastiraki, Plaka, and Psyrri. The key things to look for are location, rooftop views, cleanliness, and access to metro links—because in Athens, even budget stays can be surprisingly scenic and central.
Below are some of the best hostels in Athens, each offering excellent value in prime locations.
Athens Backpackers
Athens Backpackers Hostel
Athens Backpackers is one of the most popular budget stays in the city, especially for solo travellers and younger visitors. Located just a few minutes from the Acropolis Museum, it combines affordability with one of the best social atmospheres in Athens. The standout feature is the rooftop bar, where guests can enjoy drinks while looking directly at the illuminated Parthenon at night.
Rooms are simple but clean, with dorms and private options available. The vibe is lively, with daily walking tours and social events that make it easy to meet other travellers. Despite its party-friendly reputation, it’s well managed and secure.
Safestay Athens Monastiraki sits in the heart of Psyrri, one of Athens’ most atmospheric neighbourhoods filled with street art, bars, and traditional tavernas. It’s a boutique-style hostel with a rooftop terrace, which offers uninterrupted Acropolis views.
Accommodation ranges from dorm beds to private rooms, making it flexible for different budgets. The décor is modern and slightly industrial, giving it a cool, urban feel. Guests often praise the location—Monastiraki Square is just a short walk away.
There’s a relaxed café-bar on site, and the rooftop becomes a social hub in the evenings.
City Circus Hostel is set inside a beautifully restored neoclassical mansion, blending traditional architecture with modern hostel design. Located in Psyrri, it’s ideal for travellers who want both culture and nightlife on their doorstep.
The interiors are colourful and creative, with individually designed rooms and a strong artistic vibe. There’s a small café and bar area, plus a communal kitchen and lounge spaces that encourage interaction among guests.
It’s quieter than some party hostels but still social enough for solo travellers. The location makes it easy to explore the Acropolis, Ancient Agora, and nearby food markets on foot.
Athens Hub Hostel is a modern, well-designed budget option in the Monastiraki area. It is known for its clean facilities, smart layout, and excellent rooftop terrace with Acropolis views.
Dorms are equipped with privacy curtains, lockers, and individual charging points, making it one of the more comfortable hostel experiences in the city. There are also private rooms for couples or those wanting more space.
The communal kitchen and lounge areas are well maintained, and free walking tours are often organised from reception.
Its central location means you can reach Plaka, the Acropolis, and Erthe mou shopping street within minutes.
Bedbox Hostel is a newer, modern budget hostel located near Larissa Station, making it ideal for travellers arriving by train or needing easy metro access to the airport. It offers some of the lowest prices in central Athens.
The design is clean and functional, with compact dorms, strong Wi-Fi, and secure lockers. While it doesn’t have the same views as central Plaka hostels, it makes up for it with comfort and affordability.
There’s a shared kitchen and lounge area, plus a small outdoor terrace. It’s a good option for travellers prioritising value and practicality over scenery.
Pagration Youth Hostel is one of the cheapest places to stay in Athens and is popular with long-term travellers and backpackers on tight budgets. Located in the Pangrati neighbourhood, it offers a more local, residential feel compared to the tourist-heavy centre.
Rooms are simple, and facilities are basic, but it is clean and well-run. The hostel has a communal kitchen and a relaxed, friendly atmosphere where guests often socialise in shared spaces.
It’s slightly outside the main tourist zone but still within walking distance or a short bus ride to central Athens attractions.
Athens Studios offers something slightly different: budget-friendly apartment-style accommodation in the heart of the city. Located near the Acropolis, it’s ideal for groups or travellers who want more independence.
Each unit typically includes shared kitchen and living spaces, making it a good option for longer stays. The rooftop bar is a major highlight, offering views of the Acropolis along with a lively social scene.
The atmosphere is more relaxed than party hostels but still social enough for meeting other travellers. Its location makes it easy to walk everywhere.
Also known as Paloma, the Athens International Youth Hostel is part of the Hostelling International network and offers reliable, no-frills accommodation at budget prices. Located near Larissa Station, it is well connected by metro to the rest of the city.
Rooms are basic but functional, with shared facilities and a focus on affordability. It attracts a mix of international travellers, students, and backpackers.
The hostel is quieter than many central party-oriented options, making it a good choice for those who prefer a more relaxed stay. There’s also a shared kitchen and common areas for socialising.
Address: Victor Hugo 16 Phone: +30 21 0523 2540 Check room rates
See Greece visits the Crete Botanical Gardens near Chania and finds a wonderland of colourful plants, trees, and flowers filling a lovely valley.
A passiflora flower at the Crete Botanical Gardens
Visiting the Crete Botanical Gardens – or the Botanical Park and Gardens of Crete to give it its full title – was one of the best things we did on our last visit to Crete. We didn’t expect such a colourful and fascinating display of plants, flowers and trees from around the world. We should have known better, as our fantastic guide Isi of Go-Crete never steered us wrong.
View over the Gardens
Live Music at the Crete Botanical Gardens
The gardens actually started because of a disaster, as we found when we spoke to one of the owners, Nikos, after our tour. There’s so much to see that it was getting dark by the time we finished, and we had to race to get out before the gardens closed. We decided to stay and eat there, and we’re so glad we did as it turned out to be one of their live music nights. I video’d some of it for our YouTube channel:
The Roots of the Crete Botanical Gardens
Nikos told us that the gardens only exist because of an awful fire which devastated his family’s olive trees in 2003. They lost over 45,000 trees to the fire, which was obviously a major blow both personally and financially. The land had been in the family since at least the 1930s.
Nikos worked the land with his three brothers, and it was one of the brothers who suggested that instead of replanting the olive trees maybe they could create a botanical park on the land. The brothers and their father agreed, and the park was opened in 2009. Their father died three years later at the age of 85, but lived to see the botanical park become a success.
Where Are the Crete Botanical Gardens?
The gardens are about a half-hour drive south-west of Hania, beyond the village of Fournes, after a very zig-zag uphill road.
Visiting the Crete Botanical Gardens
As you enter the gardens you have no idea what wonders lie beyond. It’s like entering Paradise. From the entrance the path zig-zags down one side of the valley, with the view regularly opening up to show olive groves on the opposite slope. Lizards rustle in the dry leaves on the ground, occasionally appearing to add to all the colour, and birds chirp constantly from the trees. To the creatures who live here it probably is Paradise!.
Organic Cultivation
Lime Tree
What’s impressive is that everything is cultivated organically. It clearly works well as you don’t just come across individual examples of plants or trees but often whole terraces of them.
Rose of Sharon
If I listed everything I wrote down it would go on forever, so I’ll make do with a few highlights, and some of the hundreds of photos we took.
Palm Trees
There was a Peruvian cherry tree, and I was dying to try the ice-cream bean from Central America, but thought I’d better not. The fruit of the Barbados cherry tree contains 30 times more Vitamin C than an orange (yes, there’s plenty of information about the plants). I was definitely starting to get hungry, having seen the strawberry guava plant opposite the tropical apricot.
Map of the Gardens
There was a pineapple guava, a Malabar plum, a Japanese raisin tree, wild garlic plants, passion fruit, avocados, and walnut trees. The Mediterranean herb garden section had lovely scents of coriander, cumin, thyme, fennel, rosemary, and oregano. ‘Nature is the largest pharmacy in the world’ says a sign.
Cactus
We see dozens of beehives across the valley and wonder what their honey must taste like with this feast just a short flight away for them. There’s quince, honeysuckle, eucalyptus, mastic, pistachio, pomegranates, white mulberry, aloe, and a huge prickly pear cactus at least 3 meters (10 ft) tall.
Information Board
The main path is about 1 km (0.6 miles) long and they say it takes about an hour to go wrong. We took two hours because we were all three constantly stopping to take photos. At the end of this path there an optional extension to add another kilometer, but by the time we got to the divide it was starting to get back, so we looped around back up to the entrance.
Dining at the Crete Botanical Gardens
View from the Restaurant
Our dinner in the restaurant after our tour was exceptionally good. It was served buffet-style, with tzatziki, fava, Greek salad, bread, zucchini pie, and vegetable stew. The main course was chicken cooked in orange and lemongrass. It was incredibly zesty and tasty. On top of this was all the red or white wine you could drink. Highly recommended!
Culinary Backstreets is a company leading food tours of Athens including in the Plaka, downtown Athens and Sunday lunch tours.
Athens Culinary Tours Visits the Central Market
Athens culinary tours are among the food walking tours offered by an unusual company, Culinary Backstreets. Their food tours are not in the obvious cities like Paris and London, but in more interesting foodie destinations, such as Istanbul, Tbilisi, Mexico City, Shanghai, Naples… and Athens, of course.
Culinary Backstreets started their tours in 2009, and one look at their website shows they’re no ordinary tour company. We got absorbed in the stories they tell, the features they write, their interesting online shop and the projects they support. Take a look at The Syrian Kitchen in Exile, for one fine example.
Athens Culinary Tours Wine Tasting
Culinary Tours of Athens
So what kind of walking tours have they come up with for Athens? We haven’t yet sampled these ourselves but we are definitely going to on our next visit to Athens. Here are just a sample of the many tours available:
This tour lasts 5.5 hours and they describe it like this: “We’ll visit an old-school dairy bar and a hidden gem of a loukoumades joint. We’ll sample souvlaki, and a kebab made according to a recipe brought to Athens by refugees from Constantinople.
“The walk will explore the hidden seafood eateries of the stoa, the arcades that are among downtown Athens’ most unique architectural features. There will be artisanal cheeses and honey and even a few sips of homemade spirits, accompanied by an unforgettable bite in the center of the main fishmongers’ market.”
There are two Plakas. There’s the main tourist Plaka with its souvenir shops and so-so restaurants competing for your custom. And then there’s the Plaka the locals know, where you’ll get a more authentic taste of Athens. Among many other things, this tour takes you to one of the city’s best bakeries, to sample some real Greek coffee, to visit a food shop in the ‘village’ of Anafiotika, see behind-the-scenes at a tradesmen’s canteen and finishes at one of the oldest patisseries in the city.
This one lasts 5.5 hours and obviously takes place every Sunday. As they say: “Sunday is traditionally a day of leisure for the average Greek, dedicated to two important aspects of life: food and family. Most Greeks enjoy the largest meal of this day at lunchtime, sharing it with an extended family that usually includes children, cousins, grandparents and aunts and uncles.”
The tour starts with a fresh-baked koulouri near the wonderful Sunday morning Monastiraki flea market. Then: “There will be a good Greek coffee and breakfast’s second course: thick strained yogurt with honey and nuts alongside hosaf, a dried fruit and spice compote that’s a specialty of the Pontic Greeks exiled in the 1920’s from Turkey’s Black Sea region.”
Athens Culinary Tours
To prove that this is an authentically Greek experience, it includes two lunch stops! The first offers grilled lamb chops and hand-cut fries in a family-run taverna, followed by a longer visit to another taverna where Greeks head for lunch with their families. Here you can expect Greek comfort food like dolmades and soutzoukakia.
More Information
Visit the Culinary Backstreets website, and don’t forget to check out the section of food stories about Athens.
This Brief Athens dining guide doesn’t list restaurants but gives practical advice on types of eating places, tipping, hotel breakfasts and picnics.
People dining in an Athens taverna
It wasn’t very long ago that Athens only had a handful of really exceptional restaurants, the vast majority being good-value places with similar menus, and some rather over-priced options trying to lure the tourists in the Plaka.
That’s no longer the case. Standards have risen, Michelin stars have arrived, and it is as easy and as expensive to have a gourmet meal in Athens as in any other European capital. However, it is still possible to find those good-value meals, and if you are in Athens and sticking to a budget your money will stretch much further here than almost anywhere else.
The only thing that hasn’t changed is that the Plaka still has a number of places where the food is mediocre. There’s a simple rule for dealing with this: never eat anywhere which pays someone to stand outside trying to persuade you to come inside. It isn’t an infallible rule, but it’s right more often than it’s wrong. The best places in the Plaka are a handful of simple basement tavernas. If you have to go down steps to get in, and there’s no-one standing outside trying to beckon you in, then the place will probably be good.
If you haven’t set out to eat anywhere in particular but enjoy walking around trying to decide where to eat, head not for the Plaka but for the neighbouring Psyrri district to the north-west. This buzzes with ouzeries, bars, and restaurants and is where the Athenians go to eat. Many places only have Greek menus but don’t let that put you off. Most staff speak English and can tell you what they’ve got.
Types of Restaurant
The word restaurant is in common use in Athens (estiatório in Greek) and mostly refers to a slightly more upmarket eating place than a taverna. The taverna is usually less formal, the kind of place where you might be invited into the kitchen to see the day’s dishes rather than choose from a menu. Tavernas are generally cheaper, too. Then there are ouzeries, which serve the local aniseed-flavoured drink, ouzo, with snacks and sometimes full meals – more akin to a Spanish tapas bar. Psistariés are places that specialise in grilled food, and psarotavérnes focus on fish and seafood.
Breakfast
Hotel room rates sometimes include breakfast and sometimes don’t. Some hotels serve excellent breakfasts in continental fashion, with coffee, fresh juice, fresh breads and croissants, cold meats, cheeses, fruit, and yoghourt with honey. Others serve a perfunctory meal of dried toast, watery orange juice, and cereal. If that’s the case then you should head straight out to a neighbourhood café and have something there instead.
Picnics
Athens is not a great city for picnics. The National Gardens is the best spot, away from the traffic and with lots of benches and greenery around. Many Athenians do pop in there to read their papers or catch a moment’s peace and quiet.
If you want a snack for there, or to take on a day trip, then go shopping near the Central Market, south of Omonia Square. Here you’ll find olives, bread, cheeses, dips, and fruit, to put together a tasty meal. Pies are popular with locals, and you can buy these at shops on almost every street. Like fast food anywhere, they range from the delicious to the dismal, but a good hot and fresh spinach or cheese pie is a cheap and filling treat.
Eating Times
Athenians eat late. Starting lunch at 2-3pm is normal, and dinner before 9pm is something only visitors do. Places are open much earlier than this, to cater to the needs of visitors, but if you want the real Athenian experience you’ll adjust to their eating times.
A Brief History of Athens from the first people to live on the Acropolis through the Golden Age of Pericles to the first king of modern Greece and the military junta.
The Erechtheion at the Athens Acropolis
If there’s one thing Athens has in abundance, it’s history. This is a brief history of Athens, picking out only some of the key points in the city’s story.
There were people living here, on and around the Acropolis, some 5000 years ago. By the 6th century BC it was a flourishing and forward-thinking city, and had introduced a revolutionary form of democratic governing system with decisions made by elected citizens. As yet no women or slaves could vote, but nevertheless the system was as enlightened as any in the world.
The Golden Age of Pericles
Democracy worked. Little over a hundred years later an era known as the Golden Age of Pericles began. Pericleswas probably the greatest statesman that Athens has ever seen, and it’s thanks to his vision that the Parthenon on top of the Acropolis was built, and many other fine buildings. He encouraged the arts and philosophy too, and this was the time when Sophocles, Aeschylus and Euripides were all working. European drama was being not just born but developing, its boundaries already being pushed by experimentation.
Alexander the Great
Statue of Alexander the Great
After the death of Pericles and a period if unrest, Alexander the Great was born and Greece had the most powerful and extensive Empire it has ever known. But all empires eventually wane, and by 200BC the Romans has arrived and were to rule for 500 years. Their legacy is everywhere, including the Roman Agora, or marketplace, and Hadrian’s Arch, still standing almost 1900 years later.
After the Romans Athens saw the Franks and the Venetians taking control, and then the most significant of all – the Turks. This detested period lasted from 1453 until the start of the War of Independence in 1821.
The First Modern King of Greece
In 1832 King Otto of Bavaria became the first king of the modern Greek state. Why Bavaria? Because the new country was still considered unstable, especially when its first Prime Minister Ioannis Kapodistrias was assassinated in Nafplion. Russia, Britain and France had all been involved in the birth of modern Greece, and it was through them that a suitable ruler was found and Greece became a monarchy.
The Military Junta
It remained one until 1967, when a military junta seized power and King Constantine fled into exile. The Colonels ruled with military ruthlessness until 1974, when the people of Athens, particularly its young students, said ‘enough is enough’ and overthrew the dictatorship. There was no triumphant return for the exiled king, however, as a referendum saw a majority vote for a return to a Greek republic. The monarchy was booted out.
Athens in More Recent Times
In 1981 Greece joined the then European Community, now the European Union, and changes started to happen. The city of Athens became much more European in outlook. Its young people travelled more, and brought back with them a desire for some of the style, the fashions, the food and the wine that they had experienced elsewhere. In 1985 Athens was Europe’s first ever Cultural Capital – fittingly, as the idea of Cultural Capitals had been hatched by the Greek actress-turned-politician, Melina Mercouri.
In 2004 the Olympics came to Athens and brought with it a new airport, a new Metro system, new hotels, new attractions and many other boosts to the city.
There are two sides to every Greek island, the tourist and the traditional, and this drive from Corfu Town through northern Corfu shows the two faces of Corfu.
There are two sides to every Greek island: the tourist and the traditional. Many visitors never stray further than the beaches and the bars, so have no idea what life is like for the average Greek person. To drive through northern Corfu is to see both sides of the picture, from busy resorts to quiet mountain villages, and to take in some of the most breathtaking scenery on the island.
The drive should take you a day, allowing for stops on the way, including lunch.
Northern Corfu Drive
Leaving Corfu Town
Leave Corfu Town on the main coastal road (no. 24) going north, following the signs for the first two resorts, Kondokali and Gouvia. Only major roads in Greece usually carry a number, most of the time drivers must look for the names of their destinations. In Corfu roads are signed both in the Roman and the Greek alphabets.
Around Mt Pantokrator
View from Mt Pantokrator on Corfu
In Gouvia the road divides, with the right fork continuing on around the coast, but you take the left fork marked for Palaiokastritsa. This takes you around the lower slopes of Mt Pantokrator and through a delightful wooded valley. You pass through the village of Sgombou, and about 2km (1.25 miles) beyond here the road divides again with route 24 carrying on towards Palaiokastritsa. You take the right turn signposted for Sidari.
The Troumpeta Pass
The road now climbs to the Troumpeta Pass, one of the loveliest spots on the island, with some of the most dramatic views after those from the top of Mt Pantokrator. The whole of the fertile Ropa Plain in the centre of the island spreads out below to the left. At the pass, take the right turn marked for Roda and Sidari.
Mountain Villages
The road now winds and descends through the mountain villages on the western side of Mt Pantokrator, places where rural life goes on as it has for centuries: Khorepiskopi, Valanio, Kiprianades, Xanthatai, Platonas and Sfakera. You should stop in a few of these, take a walk round and get a feel for life in rural Corfu.
Sidari
After Sfakera you continue on down back towards the sea and the coastal road which you left in Gouvia. When you reach it, turn left towards Karousades and Sidari. Sidari is the busiest resort on this part of the coast and has a lively waterfront, worth stopping off at perhaps to have lunch or just to look at the unusual rock formations here. After seeing the mountain villages, this is very much back in the busy tourist side of Corfu.
Continue on the main coastal road, where you can stop at a viewpoint at Avliotes on the northwest corner of Corfu. There are three offshore islands here (Erikoussa, Othoni and Mathraki) barely inhabited but with accommodation for a real get-away-from-it-all experience.
Continue on through Arillas and after about another 2km (1.25 miles) look for the left turning onto the road for Sidari. You are not going back there but starting to complete a circle that will eventually return you to the Troumpeta Pass. First you will reach Kavadades, where you should leave the car and look for the signs to the viewpoint. This gives you great views of the wooded mountain scenery around.
Driving Back to Corfu Town
In Kavadades take the right turn towards Armenades, and when you get there you turn right again through Dafni, then Agros and back to the Troumpeta Pass. Here you carry on back down the way you first arrived, following the signs for Kerkyra Town (Corfu Town).
Kalami in north-west Corfu is a hidden gem which many people know about because writer Lawrence Durrell once lived here in The White House.
Kalami
Nestled along the northeast coast of Corfu, about an hour’s drive north of Corfu Town, lies the enchanting seaside village of Kalami. Renowned for its unique, horseshoe-shaped bay, this picturesque hideaway is widely celebrated as one of the most tranquil and visually captivating spots on the Ionian Sea. Surrounded by a dramatic landscape where steep, emerald hills covered in centuries-old olive groves and soaring cypresses cascade down to meet the water, Kalami offers a masterclass in classic Greek natural beauty.
Kalami’s Blue Flag Beach
The heart of the village is its pristine, Blue Flag-awarded beach. Composed of clean white pebbles and smooth shingle, the shoreline gives way to incredibly clear, cobalt-blue waters that are ideal for swimming and snorkeling. Because the sea is exceptionally calm and translucent here, visitors can easily spot marine life moving across the rocky seabed. While relaxation on hired sun loungers is the primary pastime, the beach also caters to low-key adventure, offering paddleboarding, canoeing, and a watersports center for water-skiing and wakeboarding.
Kalami
Lawrence Durrell
Beyond its natural allure, Kalami holds a legendary place in twentieth-century travel literature. At the northern edge of the bay stands the White House. In the late 1930s, this oceanfront villa was the home of the acclaimed British author Lawrence Durrell and his wife, Nancy. It was here that Durrell was inspired to write Prospero’s Cell, his lyrical homage to the landscapes and culture of Corfu. The building still stands today, preserved as a nostalgic landmark that operates as a traditional tavern on the ground floor and offers holiday rentals above, allowing literary enthusiasts to look out over the exact same vistas that captivated the author.
Despite its prized reputation, Kalami has fiercely resisted the pitfalls of mass commercialization. It maintains an unpretentious, authentic village vibe that attracts couples, families, and hikers seeking a slower, more deliberate pace of life. Development remains low-scale and respectful of local architecture, characterized by a mix of traditional stone studios, elegant hillside villas, and a select few boutique hotels, such as the adult-only San Antonio Resort, which blends seamlessly into the cliffside.
As twilight descends, the resort’s minimal and intimate nightlife awakens. Evening entertainment in Kalami does not revolve around loud clubs, but rather around lingering dinners at the family-run waterfront tavernas. Places like Thomas’ Place and the White House Taverna serve exceptional Corfiot cuisine—such as fresh grilled squid, tzatziki, and locally caught seafood—accompanied by local wine and the steady, rhythmic soundtrack of the Ionian tide.
Where to Stay in Kalami
For those wishing to explore further, Kalami serves as an excellent base on the northeast coast. A scenic fifteen-minute coastal footpath wraps around the northern headland to the quiet, circular fishing harbor of Kouloura, home to a single fish tavern and a harbor dotted with traditional wooden boats. To the south, a similar trail connects to the pebbled coves of Agni Bay. Whether you are walking the ancient hillside trails, renting a small motorboat from the jetty to explore hidden coves, or simply reading a book under the shade of a beachfront tamarisk tree, Kalami remains a timeless, peaceful sanctuary that perfectly captures the romantic spirit of the Greek islands.
Corfu olives are an important part of this Greek island’s economy, with an estimated 3-4 million trees producing olive oil of exceptional quality.
Much of Corfu’s lush green landscape comes from its vast groves of olive trees. For islanders they have long been an economic mainstay. For visitors, there is nothing more magical than a walk or drive through these rustling, sun-dappled groves that cling to the hillsides on stone-banked terraces. Corfu’s olive trees are larger than anywhere else in Greece. Some of these ancient giants with their gnarled and knotted trunks are nearly 500 years old.
Legend has it that St Spyridon appeared in an olive grove and forbade the islanders to cut or beat the branches of the trees, because it was cruel. So for centuries they have not pruned the trees, and instead of picking the olives they let them fall to the ground by themselves, spreading nets beneath the trees to catch them. But recently the Greek government has decreed that olive trees must be pruned in order to maintain peak productivity.
The Venetians were responsible for the widespread, systematic planting of olives on the island, which reached its peak in the 16th century. They wanted to ensure their city would never run short of oil. According to Lawrence Durrell, the Venetians gave ten gold pieces for every grove of 100 olive trees planted, and when they left it is said the islanders had nearly 2 million trees.
In Prospero’s Cell, Lawrence Durrell describes the sour, pungent taste of Corfu’s black olives as ‘A taste older than meat, older than wine. A taste as old as cold water.’
Today there are between 3 and 4 million trees and olives remain one of the main agricultural crops on Corfu. Trees bear fruit only every other year, and new trees may take 12 years to yield a first crop. In a good year the olive harvest lasts from January through May.
Corfu’s olive oil is a dark, slightly greenish colour and is of high quality. Despite the abundance of trees, it can be surprisingly hard to find on Corfu. According to Rainer Kalkmann, who runs the Olives and More shop in Afionas (see p00), the locals keep most of it for their own use and the rest is exported to Italy.
Ancient fruit
Since ancient times, olives have been part of the staple diet of people throughout the Mediterranean. Olive cultivation and the production of oil date back to the Early Bronze Age (3000 BC). Corfu’s land and climate were highly favourable for growing olives. In the Odyssey, Homer tells us that the tree was cultivated here by King Alkinoös.
‘A hunk of bread and a Greek tomato the size of a baby’s head need only a saucer of the magic stuff to provide a wonderful meal.’ Emma Tennant on olive oil, Corfu Banquet
In addition to being part of the daily diet, olive oil had many other uses. It was used to cleanse and beautify the body, like soap today. Artwork on vases from the 6th and 5th century BC shows young men smearing their bodies with oil, and scraping themselves clean with a curved blade known as a strigil.
Olive oil had therapeutic properties and was used to soothe skin irritations. It could be blended with flower or herbal essences to produce fragrant oils. It was also burned in household lamps and later in the lamps of Christian churches and saints’ shrines. Olive oil was stored and transported in large clay vessels called pithoi or amphoras, which had a closed shape.
Olive Groves
Corfu’s black gold
Nearly every Corfiot family owns at least a few olive trees. In the 17th century a family’s wealth was determined by the number of trees it possessed. It was customary for large landowners to let out the oil crop to the peasants living on the property, who worked the harvest in return for half the oil.
In rural areas the number of trees is still a factor in calculating land values. Trees and land are often owned separately. When purchasing a piece of land, the buyer must also find out who owns the trees, as they have right of way.
Corfu has a mild Mediterranean climate with wet winters, sunny summers, long sunshine hours and lush landscapes. Best visit May–September.
Corfu has a very different climate from much of Greece, shaped by its position in the Ionian Sea and its exposure to moist Atlantic-influenced air masses. It’s one of the greenest Greek islands, and its climate is the main reason for that.
Unlike the arid, sun-baked landscapes of the Cyclades, Corfu experiences a humid Mediterranean climate with relatively high rainfall, mild winters, warm summers, and a noticeable seasonal contrast in vegetation.
Rainfall and humidity
Corfu is one of the wettest areas in Greece. Annual rainfall typically ranges from about 110 cm to over 130 cm (43-51 inches), depending on the exact location and elevation. This is significantly higher than most other Greek islands, especially those in the Aegean Sea.
The rain is heavily concentrated in the cooler half of the year, particularly from October through March. November, December, and January are usually the wettest months, often receiving frequent and sometimes intense rain events driven by Atlantic low-pressure systems moving into the Mediterranean.
Winter rainfall can be persistent rather than sporadic, meaning several days of overcast skies and rain are common. However, these conditions are also what sustain Corfu’s dense vegetation, olive groves, and cypress forests. By contrast, the summer months—June through August—are typically very dry, with rainfall becoming rare and often negligible for weeks at a time.
Humidity levels are generally higher than on most Aegean islands, especially in summer. While this contributes to the lush landscape, it can also make hot days feel warmer than the thermometer suggests.
Sunshine hours
Despite its reputation for rain, Corfu still enjoys a substantial amount of sunshine annually, averaging around 2,200 to 2,400 hours per year. This is lower than sunnier parts of Greece such as Crete or Rhodes, which can exceed 3,000 hours annually, but still high by European standards.
Summer is the sunniest season, with June, July, and August often delivering 11–13 hours of sunshine per day. Skies are typically clear or mostly clear, with long daylight hours enhancing the island’s appeal for beach tourism.
In spring and autumn, sunshine remains strong but more variable, with a mix of bright days and occasional cloud cover or showers. Winter sees a significant reduction, with December and January often averaging only 3–5 hours of sunshine per day due to increased cloud cover and rainfall.
Temperature patterns
Corfu’s temperatures are moderate compared with mainland Greece and southern islands. Summers are warm but rarely extreme, with average daytime highs around 30°C in July and August. Heatwaves can occur but are usually less intense than in inland Greece due to the moderating influence of the sea. Nights remain relatively comfortable, often dropping to around 20–23°C.
Winters are mild, with daytime temperatures typically ranging between 10°C and 15°C. Frost is rare at sea level, although higher inland areas may occasionally experience colder conditions. Snow is extremely uncommon on the coast but can appear briefly on the island’s highest peaks during cold snaps.
Comparison with other Greek islands
Compared to the broader Greek island groupings, Corfu stands out as one of the most climatically distinct. The Cyclades (including islands such as Mykonos and Santorini) are much drier, windier, and sunnier, with annual rainfall often less than half of Corfu’s. These islands experience the strong Meltemi summer winds, which help moderate heat but also contribute to a harsher, more arid environment.
Crete, Greece’s largest island, has a more varied climate but is generally warmer, sunnier, and drier than Corfu, especially in the south. Eastern Aegean islands like Rhodes and Kos also enjoy more sunshine and lower rainfall totals, making them more reliably dry for summer holidays.
In contrast, Corfu belongs to the Ionian Islands group, which is influenced by western weather systems. This results in higher rainfall, higher humidity, and greener landscapes. While the Aegean islands often appear rocky and sun-bleached, Corfu feels more like a temperate Mediterranean garden, with dense vegetation and abundant water sources.
Corfu’s climate is defined by mild winters, warm dry summers, high rainfall in the cooler months, and relatively moderate sunshine compared to Greece’s drier islands. Its weather creates one of the most fertile and green island environments in the Mediterranean.
While it may not offer the extreme sun reliability of the Cyclades or Crete, it provides a more temperate, lush, and varied climate that shapes its distinctive character and seasonal appeal.
The history of Corfu and cricket goes back to 1823 when the island was under British rule, which left them with a legacy of loving both cricket and ginger beer.
A History of Corfu and Cricket
On 23rd April, 1823, on the feast of the English patron saint, St George, an event took place on Corfu whose effects are still being felt 200 years later. And felt not only on Corfu, but far away in the British Embassy in Athens too. That event was the first ever cricket match to be seen by the curious Corfiots.
Corfu was under British rule at the time and in order to amuse themselves a match was arranged between the officers of the island-based British Garrison and the visiting British Royal Navy. But the game didn’t only amuse the British, for whom cricket is a passion and an obsession, it amused the local people enormously and they decided to take the game up too.
Over the next few years two local teams were formed, both to play against each other and as a challenge to the British. The two teams went by the simple names of Large and Small, according to the players’ abilities.
The British Leave, but Cricket Stays
When the British left Corfu in 1864 there were still only two enthusiastic clubs on Corfu, though by now the names had changed to Gongakis and Camvissis. By 1893, though, interest in the game had waned, which is hardly surprising when you only have two teams!
The two teams merged in 1893 because there simply weren’t enough players to keep two clubs going, and the sole remaining team took the name of Gymnastikos. Their only opponents were occasional visiting British ships, but Gymnastikos kept the faith alive and the club still exists today as part of the Kerkyraikos Gymnastikos Syllogos multi-sports club.
In 1923 another club was started, taking the name of Ergatikos, although in 1936 it changed its name to Byron Cricket Club in honour of the British poet, Lord Byron, and that club is also still going strong today. Others have classical names like Atlas and Achilles. You can find out more at the CricketCorfu website.
Hellenic Cricket Federation
There is now a Hellenic Cricket Federation, which has 15 members, all on Corfu except for teams in Athens and Thessaloníki, Greece’s second city. There is a Corfu island team, and a Greek national team, as well as an occasional team fielded by the British Embassy in Athens. In addition, the teams on Corfu have very active youth policies and also have under-18 and under-14 teams.
It is these youngsters you might now see playing on the cricket pitch in front of the Liston in Corfu Town. The main teams used to play there until recently, when some of the space was taken for a car park, reducing the size of the pitch. When the men played, with cars parked all around, there would inevitably be damage to the cars sometimes, although the Town Hall used to pay the bills!
The arrival of large numbers of British tourists on Corfu every year has been a great boost for the island’s cricket lovers. Cricket teams from Britain come touring, and school teams as well, to play against the younger sides. A new ground was built at the Kontókali Marina to make up for the loss of the one in the town centre, though there are no reports yet of yachts being damaged by flying cricket balls.
Discover Paleokastritsa’s best restaurants, from fresh seafood at Alipa to modern Mediterranean at Akron and traditional Greek at Limani.
Sample Dish at the Akron Restaurant
Paleokastritsa, a gem on the island of Corfu, is not only famed for its stunning beaches and crystal-clear waters but also for its delightful culinary scene. From traditional Greek tavernas to restaurants offering international fare, there’s something to please every palate. Here’s a guide to some of the best dining experiences you can have in Paleokastritsa, including some serving dishes unique to Corfu.
Alipa Restaurant
Alipa Restaurant,
Alipa Restaurant is a beloved spot known for its fresh seafood and breathtaking views of the main bay of Paleokastritsa. Specializing in traditional Greek and Mediterranean cuisine, Alipa offers a truly authentic dining experience. Their menu features a wide array of grilled fish and seafood, often caught fresh daily. A highly recommended dish is their “Fish Platter for Two,” which allows you to sample a variety of their daily catches, perfectly grilled and seasoned. The ambiance is relaxed and inviting, making it perfect for both lunch and dinner.
• Cuisine: Greek, Mediterranean, Seafood
• Recommended Dish: Fish Platter for Two
• Address: Paleokastritsa 490 83, Greece
• Phone: +30 26630 41614
• Website: alipa-corfu.com
Akron Beach Bar & Restaurant
Akron Restaurant
Perched right on the edge of Agia Triada beach, Akron offers a chic and modern dining experience with unparalleled sea views. While it functions as a lively beach bar during the day, it transforms into an elegant restaurant by evening. The cuisine is predominantly Mediterranean with a modern twist, focusing on fresh, high-quality ingredients. Their “Shrimp Saganaki” with ouzo and feta is a superb appetizer, and for a main course, their perfectly cooked “Sea Bass Fillet” is often praised. The cocktail menu is also extensive, featuring creative concoctions perfect for enjoying the sunset.
While primarily known as a unique bar carved into the cliffs, La Grotta also offers a limited but delicious menu, making it a fantastic spot for a casual meal with an extraordinary view. The focus here is less on gourmet dining and more on light bites and refreshing drinks in an unforgettable setting. They serve a selection of pizzas, sandwiches, and salads, perfect for a midday snack or a light dinner. Their “Club Sandwich” is surprisingly satisfying after a swim, and the “Greek Salad” is always fresh. It’s an ideal spot to combine a swim with a casual meal and enjoy the stunning scenery.
Overlooking the main port of Paleokastritsa, Limani offers a classic Greek taverna experience with a focus on fresh seafood and traditional Corfiot dishes. The atmosphere is warm and welcoming, typical of a family-run establishment. Their “Pastitsada,” a rich beef and pasta dish, is a local specialty and highly recommended for those wanting to try authentic Corfiot cuisine. They also excel in grilled octopus and calamari. The portions are generous, and the friendly service adds to the charm of this traditional eatery.
Elia Taverna is a charming, traditional Greek taverna set back slightly from the busiest areas, offering a more tranquil dining experience. Known for its home-style cooking and use of local ingredients, Elia provides a genuine taste of Greek hospitality. Their “Moussaka” is consistently praised by diners for its rich flavors and comforting quality. They also offer excellent grilled meats and a variety of mezedes (small plates) perfect for sharing. The olive oil used in their dishes often comes from their own groves, adding an extra touch of authenticity.
This guide to southern Corfu’s beaches and villages includes busy resorts, quiet beaches, hill villages and the southernmost tip of Corfu at Cape Asprókavos.
Cape Asprokavos
Pérama
Pérama is an often overlooked little resort, the first one you reach heading south from Corfu Town, on the far side of the Chalkiopoúlou lagoon from the airport. The fact that it does get some airport noise, depending on the wind direction, means it’s not proved popular with the overseas package tour operators. You also have to climb down some steep steps to the beaches, which is not so bad, though the climb back at the end of the day puts many people off.
If you’re not an avid beach person, though, the village can make a handy base, with several good restaurants, easy access to Corfu Town, the east coast and to the Achilleion Palace and the village of Gastoúri around it. It also remains very Greek and has not taken on an international face as most other resorts have.
Sinarádes
This large, attractive hill town is a friendly place where the older locals greet you and seem pleased you’ve paid a visit. Its main attraction is the History and Folklore Museum of Central Corfu which, though small, is one of the most delightful museums on the island, set in a traditional Corfu house on a quiet back street.
Worn steps lead to the first floor, which contains a replica kitchen, dining room and bedroom of 1860-1960. On the second floor is a fascinating array of items including musical instruments, toys, traditional costumes, shadow theatre, weaving loom, corn mill, shoemaker’s workbench, and a stuffed caretta turtle.
The star exhibit is a Papyrella, a boat made of reeds like those of ancient Egypt and used on the island’s west coast until World War II. Some 450 items are on display, many donated by the people of Sinarádes and nearby villages.
Ágios Górdis
Though comparatively small, Ágios Górdis has become a brash and busy resort which is not for those who like the quiet side of Greek life. Plenty of people do enjoy what it’s got to offer, and this includes one of the best beaches on the island, a curving bay of soft sand backed by wooded hills.
Much of the entertainment centres on the Pink Palace, which is a hotel that’s as flamboyant as the name suggests. It houses swimming pools, bars, restaurants, shops, sports facilities and a disco, all open to non-residents.
Worth noting if you’re just visiting for the day to sample the beach is that parking by the beach is very limited indeed, and the narrow roads can get jammed with traffic, so look for the car park sign further up the hill before you start descending to the beach and leave your car there.
Áyii Déka
Corfu’s second highest mountain is Áyii Déka, which stands 576 meters (1,889 feet) high, to the south of Corfu Town. There is a gorgeous view back towards Corfu Town from the village of Áyii Déka, which is reason alone to warrant a visit.
If you don’t have the freedom of a car, many coach tours take a stop here to both take in the view and relax in a typical hill village. The name, incidentally, means ‘Ten Saints’, and there is an exhilarating climb to the top of the mountain from the village of Áno Garoúna.
Paramónas
One of the nicest resorts on this stretch of the west coast, although it hardly merits being called a resort – more of a village with a beach, a few tavernas, and several places to stay. No buses go here and the narrow road to it from the nearest town, Ágios Mattaíos, zig-zags and forks several times so casual visitors may or may not end up there.
Those who do get there, find a pleasant beach, somewhere good to have lunch or an evening meal, a hotel to stay the night if you wish… and not much else. For many people, that’s all they need.
Ágios Mattaíos
This is the only town of any size in this part of central Corfu, though if you blink you could miss it. Blinking while driving through isn’t recommended, however, due to the narrow streets and blind corners which all through traffic has to negotiate. Drivers have to simply hope that a huge bus or tractor isn’t coming the other way.
It has a cluster of shops and cafés, and very much a rural feel, hardly impinged upon by the tourism along the coast. It stands on the slopes of the mountain of the same name, which at 463 meters (1,519 feet) offers a good hike from a path within the village, and at the end some impressive views of the valley inland and the coast to the west.
Moraïtika
Moraïtika
First impressions of Moraïtika might not be favourable, as it appears to be a long stretch of bars, shops, and restaurants along a busy main road, but it has managed to retain some character and it attracts a broad cross-section of people.
As with many of the resorts, away from the beach there’s an old part of town, in this case Áno Moraïtika, which nestles on the slopes of the hill towards the north of the modern town centre. Here there’s some peace in among the old houses and the relaxed cafés and tavernas, where the locals hang out.
You won’t find much peace on the main street of modern Moraïtika in the evening, when the bars and clubs burst into life, but as yet it has not become an over-the-top party place like Kávos, further south. During the day the activity focuses on the long beach, which might not be as pretty as some on the west coast but makes up for it with plenty of activities.
Mesongí
Mesongí is separated from Moraïtika only by the Messongís River, which is surprisingly wide in winter and spring after the rains. It makes rather an attractive boundary, too, and although the two resorts do merge into one, there is a definite change of feel as you head south into Mesongí.
It is quieter and more laid-back than its ‘big brother’, with more of a family and a Greek feel to it. The beach isn’t as large or as good as the one across the river, but if you don’t mind that and want somewhere that’s a little quieter then the narrow streets of little Mesongí could be it. And south of here the coast gets quieter still.
Gardíki Castle
Gardiki Castle
The road south from Paramónas and the one north from Lake Korissión meet at Gardíki Castle, though don’t expect a towering ruin as Gardíki is an odd castle in that it is almost at ground level. The Byzantine fortress is thought to date back to the start of the 13th century and for a long time was closed to the public but now is open again… not that there’s very much to see.
A walk up to the highest point, which is a small mound, gives an overall view of the defensive walls. You also get a view of the land around, which gives an idea of how flat this particular part is, but there is not a lot else for the casual visitor: big green lizards, wild flowers and an old Coca-Cola cabinet.
A short walk along the road towards Paramónas, on your right, is a path which leads up to a cave where Paleolithic remains have been found and which can be seen in the Archaeological Museum in Corfu Town.
Boúkaris
Boúkaris is one of the most delightful spots on the whole of the east coast. It’s a world away from the bustle of the resorts north of Corfu Town, as this is the world of the deserted beach, the fish taverna by the sea, and low-key tourist development. It’s a place for walkers, and those seeking to find the traditional way of life of Corfu, before fishing villages like this were swallowed up by the needs of the modern holidaymaker.
The coast road south from here becomes rather too rough for the average car, and nervous drivers should take the inland road if they want to head further south. Boúkaris, though, is the kind of place you may never want to leave, once you’ve found it.
Petríti
If Petríti had a good beach then it would no doubt be a popular tourist spot by now, as it’s a pleasant village that spreads out from a large harbour into an open plain and up the slopes of green hills. It has a big, open feel to it, and a friendly air, perhaps caused by the fact that it isn’t a busy tourist resort.
The harbour for such a small place is surprisingly large, with some big commercial fishing boats going in and out, as well as the smaller family boats off to catch fish for the island’s markets and tavernas. If touring this part of the island, it’s definitely worth a visit.
Ágios Geórgios
At the southern end of Lake Korissión, the lovely sandy dunes become the lovely sandy beach of the small resort of Ágios Geórgios. Small but growing, as there’s now quite a bit of tourist development here and plenty of watersports on the beach to keep everyone occupied.
It’s a place that’s popular with families, as there are plenty of children’s activities too, and though there’s not much of a Greek feel to the place, it’s still an enjoyable relaxed resort in a pretty setting.
Ayía Varvára
If you want somewhere quiet but still with a bit of life to it, then Ayía Varvára, hidden away at the end of a side road in the south of the island, could be just the spot. It has an attractive sandy beach, a few tavernas and rooms, and inland on a hill sits the old village where life goes on as it has for centuries at its own slow pace. There are good walks to be had, and it’s the perfect place for chilling out for a few days and getting totally relaxed.
Lefkímmi
Lefkimmi in Southern Corfu
There are few if any conventional tourist attractions in Lefkímmi – no museums, no beach, no seafront tavernas – and since the building of a bypass which takes traffic right to Lefkímmi port for the ferries, there is probably no reason for visitors to go there at all. This is a shame, as it’s because of these very reasons that people should try to pay a visit.
It is the main town of southern Corfu, the second largest on the island after the capital, and very much a rural community. It’s a rare chance to see a sizeable Corfu town that is virtually untouched by tourism. Lefkímmi is made up of several little villages that have all grown together, and negotiating the one-way system that winds through them can be daunting for the driver. The best solution is to find somewhere to park as soon as you can, and get out and walk.
There is a bustling community here, shops that sell everything apart from souvenirs, tavernas where you can get a real Greek meal, and several large and interesting churches: you can’t mistake the Church of St Arseniou, with its twin belfries.
Kávos
Kavos at Night
People tend to love Kávos or hate it. Those that love it will be staying there, and those that hate it probably won’t go within miles of the place, though perhaps some are drawn by curiosity. It’s the undoubted party capital of Corfu, by a long way, but is tucked away at the far south of the island where it can be left to its own devices and not affect the lives of most Corfiots.
When most of the rest of the island is sleeping, Kávos is booming to the beat of disco music, its streets filled with mostly European youth in various states of dress and inebriation. Along the main streets and down by the beach, clubs and bars with brash names all compete for custom, staying open until dawn. It winds down a little during the day, of course, when clubbers crash out on the very good sandy beach – one of the reasons for the resort’s initial development.
Cape Asprókavos
About thirty minutes’ walk south of Kávos, and a world away in atmosphere, is the southern tip of Corfu: Cape Asprókavos. It’s the recommended starting point for the Corfu Trail and to get to it you take the southern road out of Kávos, marked for Sparterá, and follow the signs for the path to the Cape.
It’s a lovely walk through farmland, a breath of air after the non-stop nature of Kávos itself. The path leads to the Cape’s cliffs, from where you can see Paxos across the sea to the south, and if you continue on around the headland you come to the ruins of an old monastery, which stands quietly retaining its monastic peace and solitude.
These Corfu shopping tips include advice on buying souvenirs like ceramics, jewelry, gold, silver, wood carvings, and food and drink, with tips on haggling.
Worry Beads for Sale on Corfu
Corfu has quite a good range of shopping options. Although it is primarily a mass-market tourism destination, it also attracts a number of cruise ships whose passengers have money to spend. The best variety and quality is to be found in Corfu Town, and if based outside the capital you should certainly include a visit there if you want to find some good souvenirs.
Ceramics
There are some excellent ceramic items available all over the island. Some are mass-produced but there are also good work from local artists. You should shop around as not all shops stock the same goods.
Food and Drink
Extra virgin olive oil can be found everywhere, some in elaborate bottles suitable for buying as gifts, but make sure it is olive oil from Corfu as a lot is imported from mainland Greece. If you simply want to buy in quantity to use yourself, consider getting a large tin of it.
Honey is also good, although not necessarily a cheap buy. You’ll see hives all around the island, and some of the mountain honey is really delicious, flavoured by wild herbs and flowers.
Bottles of Kumquat Liqueur
Liqueur made from the island’s kumquats is an unusual and very special gift. Watch for the different strengths available, as it’s usually a case of the stronger it is, the better and richer it tastes. Some restaurants will give you a complimentary glass of the liqueur at the end of a meal, but these are usually the weaker and cheaper varieties. If these don’t impress you, do try to sample the stronger versions. Many shops will let you try a taste.
Other specialities to look out for include local olives, herbs, spices, nuts, and cheese.
Gold, Silver, and Jewellery
You’ll find silversmiths all over Greece. There is a long tradition of the craft in Epirus, and in particular in the city of Ioannina, across from Corfu on the mainland. Some of the work makes its way to the island, so do ask about it.
Some Greek jewellery is rather too flamboyant for many people, but there are young designers today creating more subtle work with a wide choice of rings, ear-rings and necklaces.
Museum replicas are usually very well-made, and make good personal souvenirs.
Icons
There are few more typical Greek gifts than icons, a centuries-old Greek tradition. Most are machine-made, but you will still find a few artists producing these by hand. You can find the best choice when visiting the island’s monasteries.
Leatherware
Leather is a good buy almost everywhere in Greece, and Corfu is no exception. Look for sandals, shoes, bags, and belts in the Old Town in Corfu Town.
Weaving
Good quality hand weaving and embroidery can be found throughout the island, as it is quite a cottage industry here. You are just as likely to find top class items in some quiet village as in Corfu Town – and at a much cheaper price. Kassiopi is a centre for lace and crochet work.
Wood Carvings
With so many olive trees on Corfu, it is only natural that the islanders should want to make use of the wood too. There are now many wood carving workshops, almost one in every town, where you can buy items like walking sticks, light pulls, beautiful bowls, and kitchen utensils.
General Corfu Shopping Tips
Haggling is an option in some places, but nothing like it is in Greece’s neighbour to the east, Turkey. Corfu is far more like its western European counterparts, where the price shown is the price you pay, and discounts are only to be had if buying several items.
Greece has a high sales tax, and it may be possible for non-EU residents to reclaim this by shopping in stores displaying ‘Tax-Free for Tourists’ stickers.
Not all local crafts are actually made locally. There is a flourishing market in Asia producing local souvenirs for countries all over the world, so look closely before buying. If you see a colourful plate with Corfu written on it, you might turn it over and find ‘Made in China’!
Benitses is a busy but charming coastal village blending Roman history, lush mountain hiking & beautiful beaches, located south of Corfu Town.
Benitses
Nestled on the verdant eastern coastline of Corfu, the village of Benitses stands as a testament to the island’s ability to reinvent itself while honoring its deep-seated traditions. Once a quiet fishing hamlet, then a high-octane party capital of the Mediterranean, and now a revitalized, family-friendly resort, Benitses offers a unique blend of lush mountain scenery, crystal-clear Ionian waters, and a history that stretches back to the height of the Roman Empire.
History of Benitses
The history of Benitses is inextricably linked to its abundant natural resources—specifically its freshwater springs. The name itself is believed to derive from the ancient Greek word Pinio, referring to the confluence of streams that flow from the nearby mountains of Agioi Deka and Stavros. These springs were so plentiful that they fueled the village’s early economy, powering numerous watermills that processed olives and flour for the entire region.
Evidence of the village’s importance in antiquity can be found in the remarkably well-preserved Roman Baths. Located in the heart of the village on a private estate, these ruins include a vaulted hall and intricate mosaic floors dating back to the 3rd century AD. Centuries later, during the British Protectorate in the 1830s, the village’s water sources were harnessed once again to create the island’s first modern aqueduct, a project led by Sir Frederick Adam to solve the water shortages in Corfu Town.
Throughout the Middle Ages and the Venetian era, Benitses was a resilient community that frequently found itself on the front lines of history. It was raided several times by Ottoman forces during the Great Sieges of Corfu, and in the early 20th century, it served as a refuge and hospital site for the Serbian army during World War I.
The mid-20th century brought a dramatic shift. In the 1960s and 70s, Benitses became one of the first organized tourist resorts in Greece. It famously attracted global icons like Vivien Leigh, Laurence Olivier, and even Paul McCartney. By the 1980s, it had transformed into a legendary nightlife hub, home to the world-renowned “Spiros on the Beach” nightclub. Today, the neon lights of the 80s have largely faded, replaced by a sophisticated atmosphere that favors culture, gastronomy, and nature.
Location and Geography
Benitses is situated approximately 12 kilometers south of Corfu Town and the Ioannis Kapodistrias International Airport. Its location is often described as “where the mountain meets the sea.” The village is squeezed into a narrow strip of land between the turquoise Ionian Sea and the emerald-green slopes of Mount Agioi Deka.
The village is divided into several distinct areas:
• The Old Village (Panochori): A labyrinth of narrow, whitewashed alleys and traditional stone houses that climb the hillside, offering a glimpse of authentic Corfiot life away from the coastal road.
• The Marina and Commercial Center: A modern, picturesque harbor that hosts both traditional wooden fishing boats (kaikia) and luxury yachts.
• The Coastal Strip: A long stretch of pebble and shingle beaches that run parallel to the main road, lined with tavernas and cafes.
Benitses Marina
Things to Do for Visitors
Whether you are a history buff, a nature enthusiast, or simply looking to soak up the sun, Benitses offers a diverse range of activities.
1. Explore Ancient and Cultural Sites
A visit to the Roman Baths is essential for understanding the village’s roots. Just a short distance away, the Corfu Shell Museum (widely considered one of the best of its kind in Europe) houses a massive collection of rare shells, corals, and fossils from the Indian and Pacific Oceans. For those willing to venture just a few kilometers north, the majestic Achilleion Palace—the summer retreat of Empress Elisabeth of Austria—offers stunning architecture and panoramic views of the coast.
2. Hiking and Nature Trails
Benitses is a paradise for hikers. Numerous well-marked footpaths lead from the village into the mountains. One of the most popular routes takes you to the Springs of Benitses and the ruins of the British Aqueduct. The trails wind through ancient olive groves, some hundreds of years old, and lead to hidden chapels like the Church of Agia Marina, which offers a breathtaking vantage point over the village and the sea.
3. Life on the Water
The beaches in Benitses have been awarded the Blue Flag for their water quality and cleanliness. The sea here is exceptionally clear, thanks to the vast meadows of Posidonia oceanica (sea grass) that filter the water.
• Snorkeling and Diving: The rocky outcrops and seagrass meadows are home to a vibrant array of Mediterranean marine life.
• Boat Trips: From the marina, you can rent a small boat or join a cruise to the nearby islands of Paxos and Antipaxos, or visit the “Blue Lagoon” on the Greek mainland.
• The Laopetra: Don’t miss the iconic “Laopetra” (People’s Rock), a large limestone formation rising from the sea just offshore, which has become the symbol of the village.
4. Culinary Delights
Dining is a central part of the Benitses experience. The village is famous for its fish tavernas, a legacy of its history as a fishing community. Here, you can enjoy some of Corfu’s special dishes like bourdeto (a spicy fish stew) or sofrito (veal cooked in a garlic and vinegar sauce) while sitting just meters from the lapping waves. The central square comes alive in the evenings, offering a mix of traditional Greek hospitality and contemporary bars.
5. Local Festivals
If you visit in July, you might catch the Feast of Agia Marina (July 17th). This is the biggest event of the year, featuring a religious procession followed by a traditional panigiri (festival) with live music, folk dancing, and plenty of local food and wine.
The main sites to see in Corfu Town are listed on our Corfu Town page, and some also have their own pages, but here are some of the other places to see.
The Liston in Corfu Town at Night
The main sites to see in Corfu Town include the Archaeological Museum, the Byzantine Museum and the Palace of Saint Michael and Saint George, but there are plenty of other places to visit too. Here’s our list of the best of the rest.
Solomos Museum
This isn’t a museum to attract the average visitor, but Greeks are very proud of their poet, Dionysios Solomos, who died in this house in 1857. He was born on the Ionian island of Zákinthos in 1798 but moved to Corfu in 1828. His most famous work is Hymn to Freedom, part of which was set to music to become the first Greek national anthem.
Here in his former home are photographs, paintings, manuscripts and memorabilia, although most of the information is in Greek only. It is also rather hard to find, in a back street to the rear of Arseniou, near the Byzantine Museum. Ask at the Byzantine Museum if you’re having trouble locating it: it isn’t well signposted.
Corfu Reading Society
The Corfu Reading Society was founded in 1836 and has its home in an elegant building at the far north end of Kapodístriou, across the street from the Palace of St Michael and St George. Look for the steps going up to where its library is located.
There are 10,000 volumes about Corfu and the other Ionian islands, and although it is not generally open to the public as an attraction as such, because it is a working library still, interested visitors are more than welcome to call in and look inside. Scholars may also apply to consult the library and sometimes there are special exhibitions. There are also newspapers, maps, documents, paintings and photographs housed in the library too.
The Orthodox Cathedral
The island’s Orthodox Cathedral, or Mitrópoli, is in the northern part of the Old Town and stands impressively at the top of a flight of steps. It dates back to 1577 but was not dedicated as a cathedral until 1841. Inside it is rather gloomy, but with a high roof and three aisles it is quite an impressive building.
There is the usual array of icons, the most notable of which is one of St George, just inside the main entrance. The opening hours vary, and while it is mainly open on weekday mornings, and of course for services on Sunday, it can also be open in the afternoons so try the door if passing.
The New Fortress
The New Fortress in Corfu Town
The Venetians began work on the New Fortress (Néo Froúrio) in 1576, almost thirty years after the Old Fortress was built, showing how important the defence of Corfu Town was to them. These days there is not a lot to see inside the walls, although there are sometimes exhibitions and concerts, and there’s a café that’s mainly open in the summer.
The best reason for visiting, though, is for the views. Just beyond the entrance to the Fortress at the western end of Solomou are good views over the rooftops of the Old Town, and once you have climbed to the top there are better views across towards Albania and the Greek mainland, and over the Old Port down below. There’s also a cafe at the top where you can enjoy the views with a drink and a rest.
The Liston
The Liston in Corfu Town
On the eastern end of the Old Town stands the street known as the Liston, whose name derives from the list of noble people who were, when it was first built, allowed to walk here. It was constructed in 1807 during French rule and designed as a copy in miniature of the rue de Rivoli in Paris, and like the rue de Rivoli it has a mix of coffee shops, restaurants and souvenir shops. It constantly buzzes, day or night, with local people meeting friends, reading newspapers, chattering on mobile phones or simply having a coffee. Your drink will cost more here than elsewhere in town, but people think it worth it for the atmosphere.
The Spianáda
The Spianáda or Esplanade is the pleasant park that is such a focus of life in Corfu Town. The northern half is bordered by the Liston to the west, the Palace of St Michael and St George at its northern end and the Old Fortress to the east. Originally the whole area was a parade ground for the Venetian army. Later the northern part was used as the town’s cricket pitch, but recently the need for parking has cut into the green space so it is only half the size it once was, and few cricket matches are played here these days (see our Corfu and Cricket page).
The southern half of the Spianáda is still very pleasant, though, with an impressive fountain, flowers, greenery, paths and seats, a bandstand used for concerts in summer and at the far end a curious but attractive round building. This is the Maitland Rotunda, built in 1816 as a memorial to the first British Lord High Commissioner to Corfu, Sir Thomas Maitland.
The Town Hall
On the northern side of Plateía Dimarcheío is the elegant Town Hall, built of white marble from around Mount Pantokrátor. It was put up by the Venetians in 1665 as a single-storey building to be used as an assembly room. In 1720 it became the San Giacomo Theatre, showing the cultural enthusiasm that has always existed in Corfu Town. The building only became the Town Hall in 1903 under the British, who built the upper floor in perfect keeping with the harmony of the building. It is not open to the public but the outside can be admired from this pleasant little square.
Platitéra Monastery
Platitera Monastery
To the west of San Rocco Square and a not particularly pleasant 10-minute walk due to the traffic is the peaceful oasis of the Monastery of Platitéra. To be strictly accurate it used to be a convent, and it is no longer in use as such but it is open to the public and used for services.
The traffic noise does at least recede a little as you enter the whitewashed courtyard with its large palm trees, and an archway luring you beyond to the main buildings. It is extremely small and there is not a great deal to see. The dimly-lit church was first built in 1743 but destroyed by the French when attacking the island and rebuilt in 1801.
There are some tombs of notables to one side of the church, but the most notable of all is hidden away behind the altar screen and not readily accessible unless one of the attendants is willing to let you see. It is the last resting place of Ioannis Kapodistrias, who was born on Corfu and in 1827 became the first President of the modern Greek state.
The British Cemetery
From San Rocco Square follow the airport road for a few minutes, and down a side street on your left is the easily-missed entrance to the British Cemetery. As well as a burial place for the island’s British residents, and some of those who died in combat defending Corfu, this is a real treat for the nature lover, especially the botanist.
At the right times of year you will be greeted by a little hand-written sign from the caretakers: ‘please be careful not to tread on the wild orchids’. Almost 30 species have been found here, and less exotic plants such as roses, pansies, ferns, fuchsia, poppies and lilies are here in abundance, along with the birdlife that these also attract. It is a suitably peaceful and dignified resting place for the people buried here, and some of the tombstones give moving glimpses of the lives they commemorate.
The Church of Saints Jason and Sosipater
Tucked away in the southern suburb of Corfu Town called Anemomílos, but easily visited if you are walking out to see Mon Repos, is this, the only complete Byzantine church on Corfu. One of the frescoes on the walls has been dated back to the 11th century at least, so the walls and other parts may well be even older, and it is still very much in use today, a thousand years later.
The two saints to whom it is dedicated were both bishops and followers of St Paul, and brought Christianity to Corfu in the 1st century AD. The church’s tiled roof, ancient brickwork, bell tower and dome are all compressed into a tiny space, very photogenic from the outside and very atmospheric within. The frescoes shouldn’t be missed.
Palaiópolis
Palaiopolis
Palaiópolis means ‘old town’, and it is here that the oldest remains in the area have been found. There is no set focus to it, but several scattered sights in and around the grounds of the Palace of Mon Repos. The most noticeable remains are directly opposite the entrance to Mon Repos, the church of Áyia Kérkyra. This is the saint who provides the Greek name for the island of Corfu: Kérkyra.
The substantial walls still stand toweringly high, and parts date back as far as the 5c, even though they have been knocked down and rebuilt several times over the centuries. It stands where a 5th century BC pagan temple once stood. It is not open to the public at present, but may be so at some unspecified time in the future. Other parts of Palaiópolis are harder to get to and not as rewarding, and in any case should be seen only after a visit to the museum in Mon Repos, which lays out the history of this whole area splendidly.
If you’re saying in Corfu Town and so eating out there a lot, you don’t have to eat at only the expensive places. You can balance the budget by finding cheap eats in some back-street places which still provide mouth-watering food – we know from experience! Try Ninos or Mouragia. For top eats go to Aegli or the Rex.
One of the most respected and respectable restaurants in the town centre, the Aegli has been in business since 1812. It appeals (along with its near-neighbour the Rex) to locals who want a little treat without breaking the bank. Seating spreads out on both sides of the Liston, so you can look out at the Esplanade or watch the passing parade on Kapodistriou. The food is traditional and exemplary, with rooster pastitsada and lobster with spaghetti being two of its specialities.
On a terrace overlooking the Town Hall Square and, as the name implies, surrounded by colourful bougainvillea, this family-run place makes a shady lunchtime stop or a romantic evening venue, when the candles are lit and the fountain is turned on. The menu at the Bougainvillea is wide-ranging and includes Greek specialities such as stuffed lamb Zagori-style, as well as daily specials and Corfiot dishes too.
When asked to recommend a good Italian place, some locals raved to us about La Cucina’s home-made pasta and especially the fish dishes made with it. A starter of house-cured anchovies in oil with parsley, celery and parmesan was mouthwatering, and their own pizzas are tasty and filling. There are some tables outside and more room inside, and you’d be advised to arrive early as it fills up quickly.
Taverna Ninos
Taverna Ninos in Corfu Town
One of the cheapest and yet best eating options in town is Taverna Ninos, if you like your food simple and tasty and your atmosphere Greek and lively. There are a few sidewalk tables in this narrow Old Town street, but the action is inside where a TV is often blaring, and the house wine is poured from a water cooler in the corner. Locals love the gyros and souvlaki, which are also both available as takeaways.
Chrisomalis
In the heart of the old town, Chrisomalis (or Babis as it’s also known) has been pleasing diners for decades: the Durrell family were regulars here back in the 1930s. Go early to grab a table on the pedestrianised side-street, though there’s more seating indoors which is where you’ll also find the old ovens. This is one of the last few places to still cook in this traditional way, producing wonderfully tasty slow-cooked stews. There’s no website but the address is Nikiforou Theotoki 6, which runs back from The Liston.
Mouragia
In business since 1991, this small ouzeri gets packed with locals at weekends and there is a limited number of outdoor tables. Although it has a full menu of main courses including Corfiot specialities like sofrito, many opt for the superb selection of mezes such as fried courgettes, fried aubergines, skordalia, stuffed potatoes, stuffed squid, whitebait and other wonderful seafood snacks. Pile the plates high and linger, like the Greeks. You’ll find it at Arseniou 15, just west of the Byzantine Museum.
The Rex first opened its doors in 1932 and shows no signs of ever closing them, as it continues to maintain high standards of service despite increased competition. It’s the place the locals choose when they want something a little bit special, whether it be lobster spaghetti or its own local creation of chicken in a kumquat sauce. Take a table outside on Kapodistriou to watch the passing parade, or inside for a slightly more formal feel.
The Venetian Well Restaurant in the Old Town in Corfu Town
Some regard the Venetian Well as the best eating place in town, others say it is over-priced, but there is no denying the wonderful romantic setting on a quiet square in the Campiello nor the innovative nature of the cuisine. Dishes such as wild boar with three paprikas and chestnuts sit on the menu alongside Corfiot classic including sofrito and pastitsada.