Patras, or Patra, in the Peloponnese is Greece’s third-largest city, home to Greece’s largest Carnival, with many Roman and Greek remains, museums and churches.
Patras Harbour
Although it is Greece’s third-biggest city, Patras in the Peloponnese isn’t much on the tourist trail. It doesn’t even have a direct flight with Athens, although you can drive there from Athens in 2-3 hours (and a very pleasant drive it is), or get there on the bus in 3-4 hours. If it’s known for anything it’s for being a busy port and for having the biggest Carnival celebrations in Greece.
Beach near Patras
When to Visit Patras
Patras has a Mediterranean climate and you can happily visit it at any time of year. Most rain falls in the winter and December is the wettest month with an average of 13 rainy days. However, the average temperature in December is 11.9C (53.4F) and it never falls below freezing.
The driest months are June to September, with very little rainfall. The average temperatures for those months ranges from 22.7-25.3C (72.9-77.5F), making it a very pleasant time to visit.
Many people visit in February when Patras holds the most famous Carnival in Greece (see below). The average temperature in February is 10.7C (51.3F) with about 10 rainy days during the month. If you plan to travel then, you should book accommodation well ahead.
Beach near Patras
Getting To and From Patras
By Air
Patras has an airport which gets seasonal charter flights from several European cities, though there are currently no direct flights between Patras and Athens.
By Bus
Patras is well-served with bus connections on the main KTEL network, including with Athens. with a journey time of 3-4 hours.
By Rail
There used to be a rail connection with Athens but today’s train network only extends to a few nearby towns and villages and isn’t likely to be used by most visitors.
By Road
The Rio-Antirrio Bridge near Patras
It takes about 2-3 hours to drive from Athens to Patras. From Patras you can easily get around the Peloponnese. If you want to avoid driving into the city then there is a ring road which takes you around it. You can also cross the Gulf of Corinth into Northern and Western Greece using the impressive and graceful Rio-Antirrio Bridge (officially the Charilaos Trikoupis Bridge).
By Sea
Patras has long been one of Greece’s major ports, both for commercial trade and passenger transport. It has ferry connections with several of the Ionian Islands, with the city of Igoumenitsa, and with several Italian ports, including Venice.
The Pier at Dusk in Patras
Things to See in Patras
Although it is a busy port, and many people pass through it every day, Patras has more than enough things to see to warrant a stay of a few days.
Patras Archaeological Museum
The building itself is strikingly modern, and it houses an impressive collection as Patras has many fine ancient archaeological sites.
Roman Remains
Patras was a major city when the Romans invaded Greece, and many Roman remains can be seen. These include the Roman Theatre from 160AD, a nearby Roman amphitheatre, an aqueduct, the ruins of a stadium, and parts of walls and bridges.
Greek Remains
Just outside Patras is a Mycenean Cemetery, which is one of the most important Mycenean sites outside of Mycenae itself.
Patras Castle
Overlooking the city, the castle dates back originally to the 6th century AD, although the walls you see today are from the Venetian period of the 17th-18th century. The interior has been turned into a public park.
St Andrew’s Cathedral
St Andrew’s Cathedral in Patras
St Andrew’s Cathedral is the most imposing church in Patras and is dedicated to the saint who was crucified in Patras in 69AD. The church was built on the spot where it is said to have happened.
Patras Carnival
Patras Carnival is famous throughout Greece, and is in fact one of the biggest Carnival celebrations throughout the whole of Europe. It’s been taking place for over 160 years. Events usually start in late January, depending on the dates of Greek Easter, and go through till the first Monday in Lent, known in Greece as Clean Monday. You can find out all about the Patras Carnival on the Carnival website.
The Mani in the south of the Peloponnese is the most southerly part of the Greek mainland and famous for its rugged landscape, historic feuds and tower houses.
Coast of the Mani
Of the three peninsulas that jut southward on the Peloponnese, the central ‘finger’ is the Mani. Its tip at Cape Matapan (Akra Tenaro) is the southernmost point of the Greek mainland, and the legendary entrance to Hades (Hell). Even without such associations, you know that when you enter the Mani you are entering a very special part of Greece.
The landscape becomes much more barren and rugged in the south of the region, known as the Lower Mani, where you will start to see the distinctive stone tower houses that hint at the violence that existed here in the past.
In the Mani on the Peloponnese
History of The Mani
The remoteness of the Mani meant that it was always a place of escape or refuge, and the families who settled here in the 15th century became very clan-like, fighting bitterly for the best areas of land. The Nyklian family were dominant and at first they alone had the right to build onto their properties the characteristic tall, square, stone towers, which were used for both defence and attack. The taller the tower, the easier it was to fire down on enemies through the narrow slits of windows.
Tower Houses of the Mani
Tower House In the Mani on the Peloponnese
Eventually other families began to build towers, each trying to build as high as possible. If one family offended another, or killed someone, then a feud began, heralded by the ringing of church bells and a retreat by the respective families into their towers. Such feuds often lasted for years and down generations, as the sense of honour was great. There was no difficulty in keeping the tower houses supplied as women were protected and could continue to bring food and drink into the towers for the men.
The only hiatus in the feuding came at harvest time when a truce was called. A feud could only be ended by total annihilation or capitulation by one party. The last recorded feud of this kind took place in 1870 in Kita, and was stopped only by the intervention of the Greek army.
Where to See the Tower Houses
Kita is one place where the tower houses survive, and there are also several clustered dramatically in the village of Vatheia, in the far south of the Mani, but you will see others as you travel around, sometimes just a single tower in an isolated village.
Travel Writers in The Mani
Kardamyli in the Mani
There is much more to the Mani, though, than feuds and a barren landscape. Several delightful fishing villages welcome visitors in summer, such as Stoupa and Kardamyli. In a grave just outside Kardamyli is the grave of the British travel writer and novelist Bruce Chatwin (1940-1989) who loved the area. He was inspired by one of his heroes, another British travel writer, Patrick Leigh Fermor. Fermor lived in Kardamyli for many years and his house still stands. His travel book, Mani, is essential reading if you plan to travel in the region
Around the Mani
Stone Wall in the Mani
The northern region, known as the Outer Mani, is dominated by the mountain range of Taygetos, a defiant spine of rock climbing to a height of 7,885 ft (2,404 m). The lower slopes offer wonderful walking opportunities, as well as a scenic backdrop of pine forests, but seek the advice of local guides if you plan to do anything more adventurous.
The main town of the Inner Mani, the southern part of the peninsula, is Areopoli. This town provides all the facilities you might want, including a few hotels, but it is not the best place to be based for any length of time. On the coast a few miles south of Areopolis is one of the region’s main attractions, the Spilia Dirou, or Diros Caves.
You can combine a 30-minute boat ride into the underground cave network with a short exploration on foot of the Alepotripa Caves. Both have dramatic stalactites and stalagmites. Those in the Diros Caves are enhanced by the echoey, damp atmosphere and striking reflections in the water.
Githio
Githio
The main town on the east coast of the Mani is Githio, which is also the capital of the whole area but very different in style from the rest of the Mani. It’s a busy and prosperous little port, with several good restaurants around its attractive harbour. With the remains of a Roman theatre, beaches on its outskirts, and a wide choice of accommodation, it’s a good place to be based and to relax while you make forays into the rest of the Mani.
Sparta (or Sparti) in the Peloponnese of Greece was one of the most important city-states of ancient Greece and has significant archaeological remains.
View of Modern Sparta and Mount Taygetus from Mystras in the Peloponnese in Greece
Sparta isn’t on most people’s list of must-see places in Greece, but it has a distinguished history and an archaeological site which makes it worth visiting for a day or two. See our list of the Top Archaeological Sites in the Peloponnese.
The History of Sparta
The long and remarkable history of Sparta has filled many books, so we won’t try to emulate those here. The city is thought to have been founded in about the 9th century BC, and by 650 BC was the greatest military power in ancient Greece. It fought and defeated Athens in the Peloponnesian War of 431 to 404 BC, though began to go into decline after the Romans conquered Greece in 146 BC. Today it is the capital of the Greek region of Laconia, and has a population of under 40,000.
What to Do in Sparta
Ancient Sparta
Ruins of Ancient Theater at Sparta on the Peloponnese in Greece
The site of Ancient Sparta is just a few minutes’ drive north of the city centre, where housing gives way to agriculture. If you leave the city on the main road to the site you will first come across the Statue of Leonidas. Leonidas was one of Sparta’s prominent kings, and his tomb can be found at the site of Ancient Sparta.
As well as the tomb of Leonidas, at Ancient Sparta you will also find the remains of a theatre, the acropolis, ancient walls, a temple, and a 10th-century monastic church.
Sparta Archaeological Museum
Entrance to the Archaeological Museum in Sparta on the Peloponnese in Greece
Sparta’s Archaeological Museum naturally has the rich finds from the site of Ancient Sparta. It’s one of the oldest archaeological museums in Greece and was the first outside Athens when it opened in 1876. It’s now a listed building and also contains Roman remains, Roman mosaics, and finds from the wider region of Laconia.
On the very southwestern edge of the city is this absolutely fascinating museum which explores everything about the olive and olive oil, both central to the Greek economy. You’ll see fossilised olive leaves that are 60,000 year old, learn about the history of the olive tree from prehistoric times, the harvesting of olives, the many uses of olive oil, and see examples of olive presses throughout history as well as working miniature models of olive presses.
Sparta City Centre
Getting to Sparta
Sparta is in the centre of the southern half of the Peloponnese. It’s to the east of Mount Taygetos in the Evrotas River valley.
Sparta is about an hour’s drive east of Kalamata if you take the much longer but much quicker route via Gefyra, and about 90 minutes if you take the straight route due east through the mountains. It’s almost a two-hour drive southwest from Nafplion, and three-to-four hours from Patras.
If you’re flying, the nearest international airport is in Kalamata, with a wide range of seasonal flights from throughout Europe. The other alternative is to fly to Athens and rent a car. It’s a two-to-three-hour drive to Sparta if going direct from Athens International Airport.
The See Greece travel guide to Ancient Olympia in the Peloponnese of mainland Greece, home to the original Olympic Games.
Ancient Olympia on the Peloponnese in Greece
Olympia attracted athletes and spectators from all over Greece to take part in the Olympic Games, which were held every four years without interruption for over 1,000 years.
History of Ancient Olympia
The games were first officially held at Olympia in the Peloponnese in 776BC and contests ranged from chariot races to poetry and music, but it is the running track here which is the site’s greatest attraction to many of today’s visitors. Temples and other buildings may have crumbled, but the simple running track with its starting and finishing lines still intact seems to put us in more direct touch with the Ancient Greeks as people just like us.
Ancient Olympia on the Peloponnese in Greece
Entering the Stadium
Walking down the entry tunnel and under an arch that dates back to the 3rd century BC takes you right into the stadium itself. Stand in the centre of the stadium, which was built in the 4th century BC, and it is easy to imagine the 20,000 spectators sitting all around and cheering the contestants on. Their prize for the winners was traditionally a branch from a sacred olive tree, but perks from their home towns were certainly also available.
Lighting the Olympic Torch
Ancient Olympia on the Peloponnese in Greece
This is the stadium where the Olympic torch is lit every four years and then carried around the world to the host city of the next Olympics.
There is much more of interest at the site than simply the stadium, however. It’s surprising how large the site is, a reminder that it was the ancient equivalent of modern Olympic villages, catering for the arrival of thousands of competitors, and their entourages.
Great Temple of Zeus
Ancient Olympia on the Peloponnese in Greece
The remains of the Great Temple of Zeus (5th century BC) show the effects of an earthquake in the 5th century AD which threw its columns to the ground. It was the centre of the site and the same size as the Parthenon in Athens, giving an indication of its importance.
At the opposite end of the scale is the studio of the sculptor Pheidias, who worked here on making the statue of Zeus for the temple. Pheidias is also the man who was behind the work on the Parthenon in Athens. Across from the studio is the Leonidaion, which is the guesthouse where VIPs would stay.
Behind this is the Bouleuterion, which was a meeting house where the equivalent of today’s International Olympic Committee would hold their meetings. It’s also where the competitors would swear to uphold the Olympic rules, before making their way into the stadium.
Ancient Olympia Site Museum
A cup inscribed with the name of Pheidias was found on the site and is on display in the excellent site museum, which rivals museums in places like Athens and Delphi. It was the cup which helped archaeologists identify the location of the workshop, and tools from there are also on display. There are also well-lit displays of some fine statues, as well as bronze heads, helmets and a gallery of items directly connected with the Olympic Games. These include a bronze discus, stones used by weightlifters and some starting blocks which pre-date the existing stadium.
Hermes of Praxiteles in the Museum at Ancient Olympia
The star attraction in the museum is the Hermes of Praxiteles, a glorious marble carving of the messenger of the gods, sculpted by Praxiteles and considered to be one of the finest Classical statues to have survived the centuries.
The Pentathlon
One of the most important events at the original Olympic Games was the pentathlon, which was added to the list of events in 708BC. It combined discus, javelin, jumping, running, and wrestling. The exact order in which the events were held is unknown, but ancient texts reveal that wrestling was always the last in the line-up.
The ultimate victor needed to excel in speed, strength, skill, and endurance, accounting for each event’s own peculiarities.
For the discus throw, the athlete stood facing the opposite direction of his intended target (a delineated area of 40-60 degrees) holding the discus along the outer edge with the tips of his fingers. He then quickly rotated through 540 degrees and released it, flinging it as far as possible into the marked area.
The javelin was made of wood with a metal tip, and had a leather handle attached in the middle for increased accuracy.
For the long jump, the Olympians used lead ot stone weights, called halteres, to help lengthen their jump. By swinging the halteres backward in mid-jump, the shift of momentum carried them further.
The fundamentals of running were very much the same for the ancient athletes as they are today, but the foot events weren’t always so streamlined. The hoplitodromos, for example, required the competitors to race in military armour that weighed about 40-60 pounds (18-27 kg).
Ancient wrestling, too, was somewhat similar to today, except that the men were naked. Biting and genital grabbing were not allowed, although the competitors did try to give themselves a strategic edge by coating themselves in lard.
Ancient Olympia was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1989 and you can learn more on the UNESCO website.
The See Greece guide to Nafplion in the Peloponnese, one of the loveliest towns in Greece and close to Tiryns, Mycenae and Epidavros.
Bourtzi Castle off Nafplion in the Peloponnese
Nafplion in the Peloponnese was the Greek capital before Athens and today is a charming waterfront town with good restaurants, museums, shopping, beaches, old fortresses and a delightful atmosphere.
Nafplion (or Nafplio) is one of the most appealing towns in Greece, perhaps even in Europe. It has a lovely waterfront with beaches nearby, a fine headland with wonderful views, several fortresses, some interesting museums, an offshore island to admire, a sophisticated feel to the town with some chic hotels and so many good restaurants that, no matter how long you can manage to stay, you’ll wish you were here for longer.
Much of its charm stems from the medieval architecture of its old town, dating from the second Venetian occupation (1686-1715), not to mention its looming castles and watery vistas. The narrow streets and pristine whitewashed houses of the old town are reminiscent of the Greek islands.
Nafplion is also a convenient base if you want to visit ancient sites including Mycenae and Epidavros, both within a 30-minute drive, and Tiryns, which is only five minutes away.
Bourtzi Fortress
What to See in Nafplion
Archaeological Museum
The Archaeological Museum of Nafplion offers a captivating journey through the ancient history of Argolis, housed in a stunning Venetian-era building in the heart of Nafplion.
Located in Syntagma Square, the museum occupies a two-storey structure originally built in 1713 during the second Venetian occupation. Since its conversion into a museum in 1926, it has become a cultural landmark showcasing artifacts from the Paleolithic to Roman periods. The museum’s collection highlights the rich archaeological heritage of southern Argolis, with a particular emphasis on Mycenaean civilization.
One of its most remarkable exhibits is the Dendra Panoply, a complete bronze armor set from the 15th century BCE, discovered in a Mycenaean tomb at Dendra. This rare artifact, accompanied by a boar-tusk helmet, offers a glimpse into the martial traditions of ancient warriors.
Visitors can also explore finds from Franchthi Cave, one of the oldest continuously inhabited sites in Greece, along with ceramics, tools, and burial items from various prehistoric and classical periods.
Bourtzi Fortress
Bourtzi Fortress
The Bourtzi Fortress is a striking sea castle perched on a small islet in Nafplion’s harbor, offering a glimpse into the town’s layered history and Venetian legacy.
Built in 1473 by Italian engineer Antonio Gambello during the first Venetian occupation, Bourtzi—meaning “tower” in Ottoman Turkish—was designed to protect Nafplion’s port from pirate attacks and naval invasions. Its strategic location allowed it to work in tandem with the land-based bastion known as the “Five Brothers,” effectively controlling access to the harbour.
Bourtzi Fortress
Over the centuries, the Bourtzi served various roles: from a military outpost to a residence for executioners during the Greek War of Independence, and later as a hotel in the mid-20th century. The fortress features three levels connected by movable stairs, with entrances on both the north and south sides. Its compact design and panoramic views make it a popular destination for visitors, accessible by a short boat ride from Nafplion’s port.
Folklore Museum
The Folklore Museum of Nafplion, officially known as the Peloponnesian Folklore Foundation “Vasilios Papantoniou,” is a celebrated cultural institution preserving Greece’s traditional heritage.
Founded in 1974 by costume designer Ioanna Papantoniou in memory of her father, the museum is housed in a beautifully restored 19th-century neoclassical building in Nafplion’s historic center. It gained international recognition in 1981, winning the European Museum of the Year Award for its innovative exhibition on natural textiles in Greece.
The museum’s extensive collection includes traditional costumes, textiles, household items, tools, musical instruments, and photographs that reflect everyday life in the Peloponnese from the 18th to the 20th century. Highlights include intricately embroidered garments, bridal attire, and silver jewellery, showcasing the artistry and symbolism of Greek folk traditions.
Visitors can explore themed exhibits on weaving, dyeing, embroidery, and the role of textiles in marriage customs and dowries. The museum also features temporary exhibitions, educational programs, and a well-curated gift shop offering high-quality local crafts.
Its Kale Fortress
Its Kale, also known as the Acronafplia Fortress, is the oldest fortification in Nafplion, Greece, perched on a rocky peninsula overlooking the Argolic Gulf. The name “Its Kale” comes from the Ottoman Turkish for “inner castle,” reflecting its strategic role during Ottoman rule.
Originally dating back to prehistoric times, the fortress evolved through the Byzantine, Frankish, and Venetian periods, each leaving architectural imprints. Its massive stone walls, some rising over 85 meters, once housed military prisons and offered commanding views of the city and sea. Today, Its Kale is a serene historic site offering panoramic vistas and a glimpse into Nafplion’s layered past
Palamidi Fortress
View from Palamidi Fortress in Nafplion
The Palamidi Fortress is a majestic 18th-century stronghold towering over Nafplion, offering breathtaking views and rich historical intrigue.
Constructed by the Venetians between 1711 and 1714 during their second occupation of the Peloponnese, Palamidi is one of the best-preserved examples of baroque military architecture in Greece. The fortress was built in record time and strategically positioned on a high hill, 216 meters (709 feet) above sea level, to defend against Ottoman advances.
Palamidi has eight bastions, each named after a different figure or saint, and interconnected by a network of walls and stairways. One of its most famous bastions, Miltiades, served as a prison for Theodoros Kolokotronis, a hero of the Greek War of Independence. Visitors can explore the cells, battlements, and panoramic viewpoints that stretch across Nafplion, the Argolic Gulf, and the surrounding countryside. Palamidi is accessible by a scenic drive or a climb up the 999-step staircase from the town below.
View of Nafplion from the Palamidi Fortress
War Museum
The War Museum of Nafplion offers a compelling look into Greece’s military history, housed in the country’s first military academy building, originally established by Governor Ioannis Kapodistrias.
Operating as a branch of the War Museum of Athens since 1988, this museum is located in Nafplion’s old town. The building itself is a historical landmark, once serving as the first War Academy of Greece. Inside, visitors encounter a rich collection of artifacts spanning from the Greek War of Independence (1821–1832) to the Balkan Wars, World War II, and other pivotal conflicts.
Exhibits include original weapons, uniforms, medals, flags, and personal items that belonged to soldiers and revolutionaries. The museum also features paintings, photographs, and documents that narrate Greece’s struggle for freedom and sovereignty. A highlight is the display of handmade war flags and the bust of Kapodistrias, symbolizing the nation’s enduring fight for independence.
Ioannis Kapodistrias
Ioannis Kapodistrias (1776–1831) was a distinguished Greek statesman and diplomat who became the first Governor of independent Greece.
Born in Corfu under Venetian rule, Kapodistrias studied medicine, law, and philosophy at the University of Padua. His early political career began in the Septinsular Republic, where he served as Secretary of State. His diplomatic talents led him to the Russian Empire, where he became Foreign Minister under Tsar Alexander I, playing a key role in shaping European affairs, including the reorganization of Switzerland.
Kapodistrias was a fervent supporter of the Greek War of Independence and resigned from Russian service in 1822 to advocate for the Greek cause. In 1827, he was elected as the first Governor of Greece by the Third National Assembly. He arrived in Nafplion in 1828 and began building the foundations of a modern state—establishing schools, reorganizing the military, and centralizing administration.
Despite his reforms, Kapodistrias faced fierce opposition from regional leaders and foreign interests. His authoritarian style and resistance to local autonomy led to political unrest. On September 27, 1831, he was assassinated outside the church of Agios Spiridon, by two villainous chieftains from the Mani region in the southern Peloponnese. You can still see the bulletholes in the wall of the church. Three years later, in 1834, Athens became the new capital of modern Greece.
Nafplion Restaurants at Night
Shopping in Nafplion
Shopping in Nafplion is a delightful blend of tradition, artistry, and boutique charm, especially in the cobbled streets of the Old Town.
Start by walking along Staikopoulou Street, the heart of Nafplion’s shopping scene, where souvenir shops, artisan boutiques, and local craft stores line the marble-paved walkways. The town is known for its handmade leather sandals, evil-eye jewelry, and locally produced ceramics. Shops like Polytimi Pottery offer exquisite candle-holders and decorative items crafted with creative glazing techniques.
Beyond souvenirs, Nafplion boasts fashion boutiques, art galleries, and specialty food shops selling things like olive oil, honey, and herbal teas. The atmosphere is relaxed and welcoming, with many shopkeepers eager to share the stories behind their products. Hidden alleys reveal treasures like Antiminsio, a gallery and gift shop praised for its curated selection of Greek art and design.
The ruined Byzantine city of Mystras sits on the top and the slopes of a hill that juts out from the plain and is one of the most remarkable places in Greece.
Mystras in the Peloponnese
A wander around this magical Byzantine city in the Peloponnese is a sheer delight. Its setting is spectacular, on a hill rising from a plain at the edge of the Taygetos Mountains, which thrust down into the Mani. Atmospheric ruins sprawl over the top and slopes of the hill, with enough remaining to give a good idea of what life must have been like for the 42,000 people who lived here in the 15th century.
History of Mystras
View of Modern Sparta and Mount Taygetus from Mystras in the Peloponnese in Greece
The city was founded in 1249 by the Franks, who had taken control of Greece at the start of the 13th century. It owes its existence to Guillaume II de Villehardouin, who planned Mystras as the third of his strongholds in this region, the others being Monemvasia, and Tigani in the Inner Mani. He saw Mystras as a replacement for nearby Sparta, which lies in the plain.
Mystras fell to the Byzantines in 1262, but the new town that grew up in and around the fortress began to flourish. It developed as a notable centre of artistic excellence, attracting painters from as far afield as Italy and Constantinople (Istanbul).
Mystras in the Peloponnese
Entrances to Mystras
There are two entrances to the site. Approaching from Sparta, you first come to the lower entrance. The second entrance is at the top of the hill, and both have parking. There is no particular advantage to either of them, although if you don’t enjoy a lot of climbing you might want to explore the lower slopes first before driving to the top and then looking around there.
Whichever you choose, a map is essential and there’s a decent one in the guide we recommend, the Bradt Guide to the Peloponnese, which we recently helped to update. It’s a real labyrinth and you can’t explore it all without some doubling back.
Mystras in the Peloponnese
The Mitropolis
If you begin at the bottom and turn right you come almost at once to the Mitropolis, the cathedral, which dates to 1309, making it the oldest church in Mystras. Inside are some 14th-century frescoes and, conspicuous on the floor, a stone with the Byzantine double-headed eagle carved into it. On this spot the man who was to become the last Byzantine emperor, Constantine XI Paleologus, was given the title of Despot of the Morea in 1443. He became emperor in 1449 and ruled until 1453.
Mystras in the Peloponnese
Mystras: Convents and Monasteries
Beyond the Mitropolis is the convent of Pantanassa, whose few remaining nuns are the only people still living in Mystras. They sell refreshments and their own handicrafts at busy times of the year. Not surprisingly, the church of this working convent is the best preserved in Mystras. Built in 1365, it was the last to be constructed in this walled hillside town.
Turn left at the bottom entrance to reach the Perivleptos Monastery. The church here has particularly fine 14th-century frescoes around the dome which, in accordance with Byzantine convention, carries an image of Christ Pantokrator (the Almighty or All-Powerful).
Mystras in the Peloponnese
Kastro
The dominant feature at the top of the site is the castle, or Kastro, though first you come to the Palace Chapel of Agia Sofia with its stunning marble floors. Below here it is possible to walk around the castle keep, which gives wonderful views over the ruined city. This dramatic spot is where the German writer and scientist Goethe (1749-1832) set the meeting between Faust and Helen of Troy in his famous play, Faust.
Mystras in the Peloponnese
Despots’ Palace
In addition to the Kastro, there is also the Despots’ Palace. The first Byzantine rulers here were the Despots of Morea, Morea being the name for this whole region of Greece. The palace has survived well over the centuries. One wing dates from the original Frankish days, and another was added in the 14th century. This section includes a throne room that was used for the coronation of several Byzantine kings. The palace has been closed for extensive renovation for many years with no note of when it might re-open, though when it does it will certainly add even more glory to the remarkable site of Mystras.
Monemvasia in the Peloponnese is the Greek Rock of Gibraltar, a huge offshore rock which conceals a tiny town connected to the mainland by a single road.
Monemvasia
It’s astonishing that the name of Monemvasia in the Peloponnese is hardly known outside of Greece, because it’s one of the most extraordinary towns in the whole country. The result is that it remains relatively unspoiled, though it can get busy when there’s an influx of cruise ship passengers. Those who do venture to Monemvasia can discover for themselves what a very special place it is.
A huge mountain of a rock stands offshore, linked to the mainland by a single stretch of road. This is Monemvasia, known as the Gibraltar of Greece. When you approach it for the first time you may feel that, yes, it is an impressive site, but once you’ve seen it, what then? Well, then you walk or drive along the road to the entrance. If you drive, be ready to leave your car outside.
Monemvasia
The word Monemvasia means ‘single entrance’. To discover the secrets of this remarkable island you must walk through the single doorway, as if entering a medieval castle or something from Game of Thrones. The doorway is only wide enough to accommodate a loaded donkey.
Entering Monemvasia
As you pass through that entrance, you feel as if you’re stepping back in time to the 15th century, when Monemvasia was a busy Byzantine city of some 50,000 people. Today its permanent population stands at about 50, leaving it full of ghosts and echoes of the past. Some of the old houses have been renovated and turned into hotels or other accommodation, and others have become restaurants or gift shops.
A Friendly Local Welcome
But developments have been on a very small scale and the atmosphere remains unique. The hotels are small, so if you want to stay in the old town and experience the full flavour of Monemvasia, then make reservations well ahead. There are also several small and simple hotels in the modern town across on the mainland, where the bulk of the population lives, about 1,500 people, many of them going into the old town to work.
Monemvasia
The History of Monemvasia
The rock of Monemvasia became an island when it was severed from the mainland by an earthquake in 375AD, and the first people moved in to live on the island when the first road was built in the 6th century. It became a vitally important port, controlling the passage of ships travelling around the southern Peloponnese between Italy and Constantinople (modern Istanbul).
Monemvasia Church
With its one entrance and sheer sides, the rock was virtually impregnable, and the only time it fell was in 1821 during the War of Independence when Turkish occupiers were trapped here and besieged by the Greeks. After five months the people inside were reduced to eating grass, rats and even, it’s reputed, each other before they surrendered.
Spot the Town!
Dining on the island today is, you’ll be pleased to know, more sophisticated. Whether you visit by day or in the evening, allow time to wander through the streets – not just the main streets but the back streets too, where crumbling churches and houses create a picture of what life used to be like here, though it is still hard to imagine 50,000 people being crammed into this space.
Yannis Ritsos
Monemvasia
Immediately on your left as you go through the entrance gate is the house where the respected Greek poet Yannis Ritsos (1909-1990) was born. At the far end of the village, look for the church of Panagia Chrysafitissa. Its original date is uncertain, but it was restored by the venetians in the 18th century. Its bell hangs from an acacia tree. Close by is the larger church of Agios Nikolaos, built in 1703. All these are in what is known as the Lower Town.
Monemvasia’s Upper Town
Church of Agia Sofia in Monemvasia
The approach to the Upper Town at the top of the rock is by a zigzag stone path which leads to another entrance, still with its original iron gates. All that remains of the Upper Town, however, is the 13th-century Byzantine church of Agia Sofia, standing alone at the very top of the site. Do try to make the effort to reach it, because the views along the coast from here are very impressive.
Kalamata in the Peloponnese is the area’s second-biggest city and is world-famous for the quality of its olives and for the nearby site of Ancient Messene.
The Marina at Kalamata
Kalamata is the second-largest city in the Peloponnese after Patras, with a population of about 70,000. Like Patras, it’s never really become a big tourist destination. Instead, Kalamata’s top-quality olives have made its name known around the world. In Greece it’s also known as the home of a dance called the Kalamatianos.
Kalamata History
Kalamata’s history spans from Homeric times to its pivotal role in the fight for Greek independence, making it one of the Peloponnese’s most storied cities. Kalamata traces its roots to ancient Pharai, mentioned in Homer’s Iliad as part of King Agamemnon’s realm.
During the Mycenaean period, the surrounding region of Messenia was a major center of civilization, with nearby Pylos as a powerful hub. In classical antiquity, Messenia often fell under Spartan control, though it retained cultural distinctiveness.
Kalamata at Night
Kalamata gained prominence during the Byzantine era, especially after the decline of neighboring cities. Kalamata Castle, built in the 6th century and expanded by the Franks in the 13th century, reflects this medieval growth.
On March 23, 1821, Kalamata became the first Greek city liberated from Ottoman rule, marking a key moment in the Greek War of Independence. Today, the city blends its rich past with modern vitality, known for its olives, cultural festivals, and historical landmarks like the Church of the Holy Apostles, where the revolution was declared.
Map (c) Google Maps
What to See in Kalamata
There are a few things for the visitor to see in Kalamata, including a municipal art gallery and a folk art museum. Some of the other attractions include:
Archaeological Museum of Messenia
The Archaeological Museum of Messenia naturally contains finds from all over the region, especially from Ancient Messene (see below). They’re displayed in four different sections for the four different regions making up Messenia: Kalamata, Messene, Pylia and Triphylia.
Cathedral of Ypapanti
The Cathedral of Ypapanti in Kalamata is a revered religious and architectural landmark, central to the city’s identity and spiritual life. Built between 1860 and 1873, the Cathedral of Ypapanti tou Sotiros, to give it its full name, stands on the site of earlier temples destroyed during conflicts in the 18th and 19th centuries. It was badly damaged in the major earthquake which devastated Kalamata in 1986, and was subsequently restored.
Church of the Holy Apostles (Agioi Apostoloi) in Kalamata
It showcases neo-Byzantine architecture, with twin bell towers and a grand dome. Inside, it houses the miraculous icon of Panagia Ypapanti, discovered in Ottoman ruins and believed to protect the city. Each year at the cathedral on February 2nd, Kalamata celebrates the Feast of the Presentation of the Lord, drawing pilgrims and visitors alike.
Kalamata Castle
Kalamata Castle is a medieval fortress perched on a hill overlooking the city. Built in the 13th century by the Franks of the Principality of Achaea, the castle incorporates remnants of earlier Byzantine and ancient Pharae structures. It played a strategic role through centuries of conflict, passing through the hands of Byzantines, Venetians, and Ottomans.
A church within the castle once housed an icon of the Virgin Mary, inspiring the name “Kalamata” from “Kalomata” (beautiful eyes). Though partially ruined, the site offers panoramic views and a glimpse into the region’s layered history and cultural resilience.
Kalamata Back Street
Kalamata Municipal Railway Park
The Kalamata Municipal Railway Park is the only open-air railway museum in Greece. Established in 1986 and fully opened in 1990, the park spans 5.4 hectares on the site of the old Kalamata-Limin station. It features a rich collection of historic locomotives, including steam and diesel engines, passenger cars, and freight wagons donated by the Hellenic Railways Organisation (OSE). Visitors can explore railway platforms, a metal footbridge, and a water tower, all set within lush greenery. The park is ideal for families and history enthusiasts, offering a nostalgic journey through Greece’s transportation past.
Ancient Messene
The site of Ancient Messene is about a 40-minute drive northwest of Kalamata, and not to be confused with the modern town of Messini which you pass through on the way. The archaeological site is 25 minutes further on, after you drive through Messini.
The site sprawls over the sides of Mount Othoni, which is about 800m (2,625ft) high and which is also home to the lovely little village of Mavromati. There are some rooms to rent here if you want to spend the night, rather than down in Kalamata. If you climb to the top of Mount Othoni you’ll get great views over a lot of the southern Peloponnese.
When you see the extent of the remains you realise what an important city this must have been. What’s also remarkable is that the city was protected by walls which were about 10m (33ft) high and ran for 9km (5.6 miles). The walls were built in about 369BC and stood almost undamaged for 750 years.
Kalamata Olives
Kalamata Olives for Sale
Kalamata is part of the Messenia regional unit, one of several regional units that make up the Peloponnese. According to European Union (EU) law, only olives grown in this region can be called Kalamata olives. The same applies to olive oil from the region. However, this type of olive is grown in many other parts of the world where there’s no law against calling them Kalamata olives.
Kalamata olives are dark brown olives that are very plump and meaty, which is why they are so highly-regarded. They are a dark purple/black colour, and must be hand-picked to help prevent them getting bruised. If you ate one straight from the tree it would taste very bitter, which is why they are first soaked, with various methods used to get almost all of the bitterness out of them.
The Temple of Bassae in Messenia in the Peloponnese of Greece is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most important archaeological sites in Greece.
The Temple of Apollo Epikourios at Bassae in the Peloponnese
The Temple of Bassae (or Vassae) is also known as the Temple of Apollo Epicurius. The name Bassae is an Ancient Greek word meaning ‘the little vale in the rocks’. It was the first place in Greece to be included on UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites, even ahead of the Acropolis.
Bassae is one of the least visited of the many important archaeological sites in the Peloponnese. It’s in a remote setting in Messenia, about a 20-minute winding drive south of the mountain village of Andritsaina. It’s a rugged part of the country, and visiting here is real Greek travel. We spent the night in Andritsaina and drove straight to the Temple of Bassae after breakfast. It is a truly remarkable place.
Andritsaina
Andritsaina is somewhere between a town and a village, with a population of about 2,000 people. Although it’s not on the well-trodden tourist trail, it does have a few small hotels and tavernas. It’s well worth a night’s stay before or after visiting Bassae, for some hearty mountain food, and some great views.
Andritsaina stands at an elevation of 705 m (2,313 ft), with the Temple of Bassae even higher at 1,131 m (3,711 ft). It’s only a few miles from Andritsaina to the temple.
Map (c) Google Maps
Visiting the Temple of Bassae
What’s unusual about the temple is that it is considered so precious that a huge protective covering has been erected over it, to shield it from the elements, while excavation and conservation work is carried out. It’s a very strange experience, as from the outside it looks a bit like a circus tent, and you feel privileged to pop your head inside and see the temple itself.
It’s also a very dramatic experience, and the intimacy of being inside the tent with the temple makes the well-preserved building seem all the more impressive and imposing.
History of the Temple of Bassae
The temple was built in the 5th century BC and dedicated to Apollo Epikourios (Apollo the Helper). It’s believed to have been designed by the architect Iktinos, who was one of the two architects responsible for the Parthenon in Athens.
The temple was used up until about the 4th or 5th century AD, when the Romans closed what they regarded as pagan temples in Greece. It’s unusual in that it has examples of all three styles of Greek columns: Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian. In fact the Corinthian capital here is the oldest known example in Greece.
As with the Parthenon in Athens, the temple was plundered by the British, including the magnificent frieze. This is now on display in the British Museum in London, alongside the Parthenon Marbles. Is it too much to hope that one day it will be returned and put back in its right place on the Temple of Bassae?
Architectural Significance
Three Classical Orders: It is unique among ancient Greek temples for incorporating all three classical architectural orders: Doric (for the exterior peristyle), Ionic (for the interior columns), and the earliest known surviving example of a Corinthian capital (on a single column in the center of the interior).
Architect: The temple is traditionally attributed to Iktinos, the famous architect who also designed the Parthenon in Athens, though this attribution is sometimes debated by modern scholars.
Unusual Orientation: Unlike most Greek temples that are oriented east-west, the Temple of Bassae is oriented north-south, believed by some to be for cultic reasons, such as aligning with the summer solstice sunrise.
Design: Built between approximately 420 and 400 BC, it combines archaic features (such as its elongated shape with a 6×15 column ratio) with the serenity of the Classical Doric style and daring innovations, marking a turning point in temple architecture.
The See Greece guide to the ancient archaeological site of Tiryns, near Mycenae, in the Peloponnese of Greece, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Where is Tiryns?
From Athens to Tiryns Map (c) Google Maps
Tiryns is about 20 kms (12 miles) south of Mycenae, and 5 kms (3.1 miles) north of Nafplion in the Peloponnese of Greece. If you’re based in Nafplion it’s easy to combine visits to the two sites in one day, or if you’re driving from Athens to Nafplion and make an early start you can also visit both sites on your journey.
Tiryns is about a 90-minute drive from Athens, or about two hours from Athens International Airport. There is some accommodation near Tiryns but our advice would be to stay in Nafplion and make the 5-minute drive to Tiryns.
Ancient Tiryns on the Peloponnese in Greece
Why Is Tiryns Famous?
The site is mainly famous for its impressive fortifications, which date back to the Bronze Age, and for being one of the main centers of the Mycenaean civilisation.
How Old is Tiryns?
The earliest evidence of settlement in Tiryns dates back to the Neolithic period, around 4000 BC. However, it was during the Bronze Age that the site became an important center of Mycenaean culture, which flourished in Greece between 1600 and 1100 BC.
Mycenean Civilisation
The Mycenaean civilisation is known for its monumental architecture, including large palaces, tombs, and fortifications. Tiryns is particularly famous for its fortifications, which were built in several phases between the 15th and the 13th centuries BC. The walls of Tiryns are among the most impressive and well-preserved examples of Mycenaean military architecture.
Tiryns Fortifications
The first fortifications at Tiryns were built around 1500 BC, during the Middle Helladic period. These walls were made of stone and mud-brick, and they encircled the hill on which the palace and other buildings were located. However, these walls were not very strong and were replaced by new, more massive walls around 1400 BC.
Ancient Tiryns on the Peloponnese in Greece
The Walls of Tiryns
The new walls were built of huge limestone blocks, some of which weigh over 10 tons. These blocks were carefully fitted together without mortar, using a technique called “Cyclopean masonry,” which is named after the mythical race of giants who were said to have built the walls. The walls were up to 7 meters (23 feet) thick and over 10 meters (33 feet) high, with towers and bastions at strategic points.
The construction of such massive walls required a large workforce and a high degree of organization. It’s believed that the Mycenaean rulers of Tiryns controlled a large territory and had access to a substantial labor force, including slaves and prisoners of war.
The Palace of Tiryns
The Palace of Tiryns was located within the walls and was the residence of the Mycenaean rulers. The palace was a complex of buildings, including a central hall, private rooms, and storage areas. The central hall was the most impressive part of the palace and was used for public ceremonies, feasts, and other important events. The hall had a large hearth in the center and was decorated with frescoes and other artworks.
Tiryns was an important center of Mycenaean culture and played a role in the wider Mediterranean world. The Mycenaeans were skilled traders and sailors and maintained contacts with other civilisations, such as the Minoans on the island of Crete and the Egyptians.
Tiryns and the Trojan War
Tiryns was also involved in the Trojan War, which is described in Homer’s Iliad. According to the legend, the Mycenaean king Agamemnon gathered a large army at Tiryns and sailed to Troy to recover his wife, who had been kidnapped by the Trojan prince Paris.
Rediscovery of Tiryns
In the centuries that followed, Tiryns declined in importance and was eventually abandoned. The site was rediscovered in the 19th century by German archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann, who also excavated the nearby site of Mycenae. It’s now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Corinth has four aspects to it, which are the Corinth canal, the modern town of Corinth, nearby Ancient Corinth, and above that Akrokorinthos or Upper Corinth.
Ancient Corinth in the Peloponnese
The Corinth Canal
The Corinth (Korinthos) Canal is one of the great sights of Greece. With luck, you might be there when a ship is being steered between the narrow, sheer walls which stretch away in the distance to link the Gulf of Corinth with the Aegean Sea. The only way to see it – apart from taking a boat through it – is to take the main road from Athens onto the Peloponnese, which crosses over the canal. You can park and get out to have a lovely view down the canal, an engineering marvel which effectively turned the Peloponnese into a giant island.
The Corinth Canal in the Peloponnese
Roman Emperor Nero (37-68 AD) first mooted the idea of cutting a canal through the isthmus so that ships could sail from Italy into the Aegean without going all the way round the Peloponnese. He performed the first symbolic excavation in person, using a silver shovel, but the task was never completed. Ships continued to sail up the Gulf of Corinth, unload their cargoes, , and have them carried the 3.5 miles (6 km) to a ship waiting on the far side rather than risk losing the cargo on the sometimes stormy circuit around the Peloponnese.
It wasn’t until 1893, after a total of 12 years work, that the 75-foot (23-metre) Corinth Canal was finally cut through, enabling boats to sail directly to Piraeus. The canal is still used, though less so these days as it isn’t large enough to take the latest super-tankers.
Modern Corinth
A few miles beyond the canal (if coming from Athens) is the modern town of Corinth, which detains few visitors except maybe as a refueling stop. It’s mainly an agricultural service town, and it’s interesting to know that it’s the centre of the Greek currant industry: the word ‘currant’ actually derives from the name Corinth. There are hotels and restaurants if you need to spend the night, but the charms of Nafplion are little more than an hour’s drive away, so head there for the evening.
Ancient Corinth
Ancient Corinth in the Peloponnese
Beyond the modern town, the site of Ancient Corinth is to the south of the main road. Regular buses from modern Corinth also take visitors to and from the site. The site really comes to life as you walk around the well-preserved remains which are dominated by a Temple of Apollo from the 5th century BC. With its massive Doric columns, this is one of the buildings that the Romans left when they redeveloped the city as their provincial capital in 44BC.
The city was once home to 300,000 citizens and 460,000 more who were slaves – a total population bigger than modern-day Denver, Boston, or Washington DC. The smallest buildings are the ones that speak of the history: the remnants of shops, houses, and administrative buildings. The Peirine Fountain was a gift from Herodes Atticus, the wealthy Athenian, patron and friend of the Romans, and the spring beneath it still provides the water supply for the modern town of Corinth.
Ancient Corinth in the Peloponnese
The Archaeological Museum on the site has a good display of remains found there. Some lovely mosaics, mostly dating from the second-century AD Roman period, are a good indication of the city’s wealth at that time. Domestic vases, pottery, and jewelry all give the collection a more human scale.
Upper Corinth
Overlooking the lower city from the hilltop 2.5 miles (4 km) away was Akrokorinthos, or Upper Corinth. To get here you’ll need a car or take a taxi from Corinth, and though it’s a bit steep you can hike it or bike it too. Akrokorinthos’s walls and spectacular views are the chief reasons to visit.
When you see the position the city commands, you realise its strategic importance and why it was refortified by every subsequent wave of invaders, including the Venetians, the Franks, and the Turks. The walls run for 1.25 miles (2 km) around the 60-acre (24-hectare) site, where you can find the remains of chapels, mosques, houses, fortifications, and the still-working Turkish Fountain of Hatzi Mustafa.
A Thing of Beauty by Peter Fiennes describes ‘Travels in Mythical and Modern Greece’ and places the Greek Gods in the context of modern-day Greece.
A Thing of Beauty by Peter Fiennes
Here at See Greece we’re suckers, of course, for travel books about Greece. Our shelves are sagging with them. They include classics like Patrick Leigh Fermor, Lawrence Durrell, and Henry Miller, to more recent must-read titles like Eurydice Street and Wild Abandon. To this list can be added A Thing of Beauty by Peter Fiennes, an evocative and informative book whose sub-title sums it up: Travels in Mythical and Modern Greece.
You would therefore expect his new book about Greece to shine when it comes to the nature writing, and it certainly does, though that is only one part of its multi-faceted appeal. It’s for anyone interested in the Greek Gods and their myths, the Greek countryside and wildlife, Greek politics and history, climate change and sustainable living, whether there’s any hope in the world today… and how many Greek salads can one man eat? If you’re interested in more than one of those topics, it’s definitely the book for you.
Travels in Greece
It’s the theme of the Greek myths which holds the book together, though, as the author travels around the country visiting the places where some of the more famous myths are said to have occurred.
Beginning in Athens and ending in Epirus, via a drive around the Peloponnese, the author retells those myths as well as talking to present-day Greeks – some in pre-arranged meetings and others by chance – and asking everyone the question he’s most curious about: is there hope? It’s a serious question although the book itself is far from sombre, as the author has a light touch and is very funny in places.
Lord Byron
In fact the book begins not in Athens but in Nottinghamshire in England. At Newstead Abbey, to be exact, the ancestral home of George Gordon Byron, 6th Baron Byron, better-known to the world as Lord Byron, poet and Grecophile. The author’s travel plans were scuppered, or at least delayed, by the outbreak of Covid, so he takes the chance to go and see Lord Byron’s home.
And it’s thanks to this that we get a hugely entertaining chapter about Byron and his family, filled with salacious details, leading up to his love affair with Greece. Well, he’d had every other kind of love affair, why not with an entire country?
And while Covid is initially an impediment, it turns out to add what was probably an unexpected dimension to the book. After all, it’s not in the least bit far-fetched to look upon the pandemic as a curse brought down on mankind by the Gods above, Greek or otherwise. This is another theme the author skilfully weaves into the tapestry of his story.
On the Road in Greece
Renting a car, and leaving his wife and son behind after a few family days, the author drives around Greece visiting such places as Eleusis, Corinth, Mycenae, Epidavros, Olympia, Delphi (where he encounters an online Oracle), Messolonghi (where Byron, or at least a bit of him, is buried), and ultimately to the wilds of Epirus, a majestic landscape threatened by voracious oil developers and by fracking.
Lost and Found
While dealing with the immortal (well, some of them) and almighty Gods, the author proves himself to be all-too-human, and very self-deprecating with it. He manages to get lost while hiking, stumbling across German nudists on a beach, and when he has treated himself to a decent hotel for the all-important visit to Delphi, he ends up in the worst room in the building, with the smell of tobacco and the sound of conversation – which is seldom whispered in Greece – both wafting in from a ventilation shaft of some kind.
Epirus
For me the book builds to the best part, towards the end, where the author visits Epirus. Here he meets up with an ornithologist contact, Julian Hoffman, who lives in Prespa, and we’re treated to sightings that show just how rich parts of Greece are in birds and other flora and fauna. Even the ornithologist is impressed by what they see in the Ambracian Gulf, a stone’s throw, literally, from the airport at Preveza which brings holidaymakers in by the charter-flight planeload throughout a normal summer.
In this section I learned where I’m definitely going to eat if I ever find myself in Mitikas, just outside Preveza: the Doctor of Hunger steakhouse, it has to be. It’s also in Epirus, at the Monastery of Rodia, that the author and his ornithologist companion meet an eccentric elderly Greek man named Costas, who for some reason seems to be gathering cyclamen. As they’re about to leave, Costas hands them a bunch of cyclamen and tells them with great feeling: ‘Remember what men are here for. It is to share stories about the things that matter.’
It’s a wonderful summing-up of what’s important in life, and Peter Fiennes should be proud of himself that in his book he has done just that. He’s shared stories about things that matter.
Argos is one of the top archaeological sites in the Peloponnese, one of the oldest cities in Europe, and with museums and a theatre bigger than Epidavros.
Panoramic View of Argos from the Castle of Larissa
Argos’s claim to fame is that it is the oldest continuously-inhabited city in the whole of Europe, and one of the oldest in the world, with a history going back over 7,000 years. It has a lovely setting at the foot of Mount Chaon, and although it’s not really a major name on the tourist trail it has plenty to see and reward a day or two’s visit.
The History of Argos
During the Late Bronze Age (c. 1700–1100 BCE), Argos flourished as a Mycenaean settlement, though it was overshadowed by nearby Mycenae and Tiryns. The city was built around the hills of Aspis and Larissa, and archaeological finds—including tholos tombs—attest to its significance in this era.
In mythology, Argos was ruled by legendary figures such as Diomedes and was closely associated with Hera, who had a major sanctuary nearby. Homer’s Iliad celebrates Argive warriors among the Greek forces at Troy.
The Heraion Plain around Argos
Following the collapse of the Mycenaean civilization, Argos remained inhabited through the Greek Dark Ages and re-emerged as a dominant city-state in the Archaic period. Under King Pheidon in the 7th century BCE, Argos reached its zenith, pioneering military innovations and defeating Sparta at Hysiae in 669 BCE.
However, Sparta eventually eclipsed Argos, defeating it in 550 and 494 BCE. Argos allied with Athens during the Peloponnesian War but later shifted allegiances, joining Corinth and Thebes in various conflicts.
In the Hellenistic period, Argos became part of the Achaean League and remained influential until Roman times. The city prospered under Roman rule, with notable constructions like its grand theatre and baths.
Despite invasions and decline, Argos endured through Byzantine, Ottoman, and modern eras. Today, it stands as a vibrant town, rich in archaeological heritage and historical legacy, a living testament to Greece’s enduring past.
Argos Archaeological Sites
Ancient Theater at Argos in the Peloponnese
There is no one single archaeological site, but the various archaeological remains are spread throughout the modern city. This makes it unusual, seeing the different layers of life in different places as you move around town. Most archaeological sites in Greece are slightly away from the modern cities which grew up nearby, and everything is in the one place.
Other Argos Sites
Argos has some Roman baths, and a theater that is actually bigger than the more famous one at Epidavros, which is about a 40-minute drive to the east. It could seat up to 20,000 people. Looking at the ruins now it’s hard to imagine just what these theatres would have been like when operating. The orchestra stalls here could be flooded to enable naval battles to be acted out in front of the stage, with action going on behind. Quite a spectacle.
There’s also an acropolis, an ancient agora, and the very unusual Pyramid of Hellinikon. There are several of these in Greece, and although no-one knows for sure what they were used for, it’s thought they may have been inspired by the pyramids in Egypt.
Argos Museums
Argos Archaeological Museum
The Archaeological Museum of Argos is a treasure trove of ancient Greek history, housed in a unique architectural blend of neoclassical and modern styles. Located at the intersection of Vasilissis Olgas and Kallergis streets in Argos, the museum occupies the historic 1830 residence of General Dimitrios Kallergis, alongside a modern wing added in 1961 with support from the French Archaeological School.
Its collection spans from the Mid-Helladic period (c. 2000 BCE) to Late Antiquity (c. 600 CE), showcasing finds from major excavations at Aspida, Deirada, the ancient agora, the Roman theatre, and Lerna.
Highlights include:
A bronze cuirass and helmet from the 8th century BCE, discovered in the “Tomb of the Warrior”
A Proto-Argive crater depicting Odysseus blinding Polyphemus (670–650 BCE)
Minoan-style pottery and geometric-era ceramics, including pomegranate models symbolizing Hera
Roman mosaics in the courtyard, illustrating the twelve months and seasonal festivities
A Farnese-style statue of Heracles, a Roman copy of Lysippus’s original work
The museum also features the “Lerna Room,” dedicated to prehistoric finds from the nearby site of Lerna, including one of Europe’s oldest sculptural representations of the human form.
Argos Epigraphic Museum
The Epigraphic Museum in Argos on the Peloponnese
This new museum, opened in 2023, is a 2-minute walk east of the Archaeological Museum, and housed in the Kapodistrias Barracks, an impressive building worth seeing in itself. At first it might sound a little specialised, containing only tablets and stone inscriptions, but it reveals ancient life in and around Argos in fascinating detail. Some of the bronze tablets go back to the 4th century BC and are considered to be of international historic significance.
The See Greece guide to the top archaeological sites in the Peloponnese including Epidavros, Olympia, Mycenae, Mystras, Tiryns, and Argos.
Beehive Tomb at Mycenae in the Peloponnese
The Peloponnese has some of the best archaeological sites in Greece, so many that you would need to spend a few weeks there in order to visit them all. Mystras alone could easily take up a day of your time, so sprawling is the site and with a lot of climbing up and down.
Top Archaeological Sites in the Peloponnese
Argos
Ancient Theater at Argos in the Peloponnese
Argos’s claim to fame is that it is the oldest continuously-inhabited city in the whole of Europe, and one of the oldest in the world. It has a lovely setting at the foot of Mount Chaon, and although it’s not really a major name on the tourist trail it has plenty to see and reward a day or two’s visit.
There is no one single archaeological site, but the various archaeological remains are spread throughout the modern city. This makes it unusual, seeing the different layers of life in the same place. Most archaeological sites in Greece are slightly away from the modern cities which grew up nearby.
Argos has some Roman baths, and a theater that is actually bigger than the more famous one at Epidavros, which is about a 40-minute drive to the east. There’s also an acropolis, an ancient agora, and the very unusual Pyramid of Hellinikon. There are several of these in Greece, and although no-one knows for sure what they were used for, it’s thought they may have been inspired by the pyramids in Egypt. See our full page on Argos.
Bassae
The Temple of Apollo Epikourios at Bassae on the Peloponnese in Greece
Bassae is a remote site, set up high, just south of the lovely mountain village of Andritsaina, Andritsaina is well worth a stop, either for lunch or overnight, to get to Bassae early in the morning. The site is remarkable for the stunning 5th-century Temple of Apollo Epicurius (‘Apollo the helper’), which is so precious it has to be covered with a protective tent.
In 1986 Bassae was the first archaeological site in Greece to be placed on UNESCO’s World Heritage List. It was noted for the Bassae Frieze, which is now on display in the British Museum in London, and its remote location means that it has been spared the damage and destruction received by other monuments in major towns and cities. See our page on the Temple of Bassae.
Corinth
Ancient Corinth in the Peloponnese
There are actually two archaeological sites to see at Corinth. If you’re visiting the Peloponnese from Athens, Ancient Corinth might well be your first stop, once you’re over the Corinth Canal, and it has various parts to it which are in and around the modern town. These include a Roman amphitheatre and a cemetery, and it’s worth visiting the archaeological museum as at one time Ancient Corinth was one of the most important cities in Greece, with an estimated population of about 90,000 in 400 BC.
A 5-minute drive away in a spectacular hilltop location overlooking the modern town is the site of Acrocorinth (‘Upper Corinth’). This sprawls across the hilltop and with its own water supply this was an impressive fortress until the 19th century, though no-one knows for certain when it was founded. It goes back to Mycenean times at least. See our main Corinth page.
Epidavros
Ancient Theatre at Epidavros in the Peloponnese
Ancient Epidavros (or Epidaurus) is definitely a must-see archaeological site in the Peloponnese. It’s most famous for its remarkable theatre, which was built in the 4th century BC and the 14,000-seater is still in use today for the annual Athens and Epidavros Festival. However, there is much more to the site than this. It was used as a healing centre, as the whole site was dedicated to Asclepius, the God of Medicine.
The Sanctuary of Asclepius was founded in the 6th century BC and had many shrines and several hospitals. It’s about a 30-minute drive east of Nafplion, which makes a good base for seeing several of the top archaeological sites in the Peloponnese, including Argos, Mycenae and Tiryns, as well as Epidavros. See our Epidavros page for more details.
Isthmia
A 15-minute drive from Corinth, modern Isthmia straddles the Corinth Canal but archaeological remains including the Temple of Poseidon are in the Peloponnese on the western side of the canal. The temple, also known as the Temple of Isthmia, is thought to date from about the 7th century BC. Isthmia also has a bath house with well-preserved mosaic floors, and was the site of the Isthmian Games, and you can see the remains of several stadiums.
Messene
Ancient Messene, to give it its full name, is a 40-minute drive north of Kalamata in the southern Peloponnese. The site was only excavated in the 1980s and it is one of the most comprehensive archaeological sites in the Peloponnese, if not the whole of Greece. Here you can see temples, a stadium, a gymnasium, and a theatre that held 10,000 people, amongst other remains.
Mycenae
Mycenae in the Peloponnese
Mycenae is about a 30-minute drive north of Nafplion, and is probably the top archaeological site in the Peloponnese. It was so important that it gave its name to a whole period of Greek history. There’s evidence that this particular site was first occupied as early as 5000 BC, but by the 2nd millennium BC it was known as the City of Golf and housed the royal palace of the Trojan War hero, King Agamemnon.
Much of the site was excavated by the German archaeologist Howard Schliemann, and though he made some mistakes in his over-enthusiasm for what he was finding, we owe him a debt of gratitude for what he uncovered. See our separate Mycenae page for more details.
Mystras
Mystras in the Peloponnese
Mystras is one of the most remarkable places in Greece. It isn’t a conventional archaeological site but the remains of an entire town built on a hill, and which was inhabited till the 1830s. It is another of the must-see sites in the Peloponnese. A few nuns still live in one of the town’s convents, and in addition you can see churches, the remains of palaces, and the remains of the huge hilltop fortress. See more on our Mystras page.
Nemea
The Nemean Games
The site of Ancient Nemea is about a 30-minute drive southwest from Corinth, a 20-minute drive north of Mycenae, and just to the east of the modern town of Nemea. It makes this northeast corner of the Peloponnese rich in archaeological sites, with Tiryns, Argos and Epidavros all being fairly close by. The area around here has been inhabited since at least 6,000 BC, and by 573 BC this was the site of the Nemean Games. These were held every two years until 271 BC, after which they were moved to Argos, 25 km (16 miles) due south.
Olympia
Ancient Olympia on the Peloponnese in Greece
The archaeological site of Ancient Olympia, original home of the Olympic Games, is something not to be missed when visiting the Peloponnese. The games were first held here in 776 BC and continued to run every four years for over 1,000 years. It’s quite a thrill to walk out onto the original running track, and you can also see the archaeological equivalent of the Olympic Village. The nearby modern town of Olympia also has an archaeological museum and a museum devoted to the Olympic Games.
Sparta
Sanctuary of Menelaus at Sparta on the Peloponnese in Greece
Few places see their names enter the language, but the former city-state of Sparta is where we get the word ‘spartan’ from. They were a formidable military power, mainly responsible for Greece’s victory in the Greco-Persian Wars, and even defeated their rivals Athens in the Peloponnesian Wars. The site is just to the north of the modern city limits, with the ruins of a theatre, a temple, and other remains. See our full page on Sparta.
Tiryns
Ancient Tiryns on the Peloponnese in Greece
A 5-minute drive north from Nafplion, going towards Mycenae, brings you to another Peloponnesian archaeological site worth seeing. Tiryns was a hilltop fortress and has been inhabited for several thousand years before becoming a significant Mycenean city, to rival Mycenae itself. Today’s ruins can’t rival those at Mycenae, which is a 20-minute drive north, but they’re still worth seeing and became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. See our Tiryns page for more information.
The See Greece guide to Epidavros in the Peloponnese, one of the top archaeological sites in Greece and famous for its ancient theatre.
Ancient Theatre at Epidavros in the Peloponnese
To see Epidavros (or Epidaurus) empty is impressive enough, and if you are lucky enough to attend one of the summer performances here, the effect is truly magical. The theatre is used to put on performances during the Athens and Epidavros Festival every summer.
Because much of Epidavros appears overgrown, many visitors do not take the trouble to explore it, leaving after a look at its most famous feature, the theatre. Look for the signs that direct you to the various remains, and if you can arm yourself with a map, and go first to the museum and not straight to the theatre, you’ll have a much more rewarding visit.
Epidavros Theatre
Ancient Theatre at Epidavros in the Peloponnese
The theatre was built in the 4th century BC, and has 55 rows of seats, capable of holding 14,000 people. The stage is 65 feet (20m) in diameter. It’s hard to believe that such a huge structure lay buried and undiscovered until excavations began in the late 19th century.
It was finally restored in 1954 and it’s worth noting that the first 34 rows of the auditorium are all original. Imagine these very same seats being used by people living almost 2,500 years ago. The audience, especially those higher up, look out across the stage and the site of Epidavros to the mountains beyond. It’s a spectacular setting.
The God of Healing
Ancient Theatre at Epidavros in the Peloponnese
There is much more to Epidavros than the theatre, which wasn’t built purely for aesthetic reasons or to show drama. The site was dedicated to the God of Healing, Asklepios, the son of Apollo. He learned his healing skills from the centaur, Charon, and he was so gifted at healing that he is said to have had the power to bring people back from the dead. However, he was himself killed by a thunderbolt from Zeus, the King of the Gods, as he feared that Asklepios was becoming too powerful.
There was a temple dedicated to Asklepios at Epidavros and it contained a statue of the God made from gold and ivory. Little of the temple is visible today but there are ongoing excavations here and Epidavros may be revealed as a much more important site than we already know it to be.
Ancient Site of Epidavros in the Peloponnese
Epidavros Museum
People brought their health problems to Epidavros, where medical practitioners were based, and the museum on the site contains examples of the kinds of medical instruments used. Drama played a part as a kind of catharsis or purging in some of the healing processes recommended in those days.
The museum also contains records of cures alleged to have taken place here, as well as more conventional vases and statuary recovered during the excavation work.
Ancient Theatre at Epidavros in the Peloponnese
Around the Site of Epidavros
Spread around the site of Epidavros are also the remains of the guesthouses where visitors stayed, a bath-house, and a gymnasium, showing that physical exercise was as important in some cures back then as it is today. The Greeks were firm believers in having a healthy mind in a healthy body. This small nation gave the word not only the greatest philosophers and dramatists but also the Olympic Games and the father of medicine, Hippocrates, who was from the island of Kos.
Ancient Site of Epidavros in the Peloponnese
The Tholos
Another important building is the circular tholos, which was designed by the same architect who built the theatre, Polykleitos. Its purpose isn’t known for sure, though it might have been home to the sacred serpents which were used in some rites, or it may have been where the rites were carried out.
One theory is that it might have worked as a shock therapy for people who had mental illness. Patients were made to crawl through the concentric passages inside until they reached the central area and were in pitch blackness surrounded by snakes. It sounds guaranteed to produce a shock, if not a cure. It also sounds like a scene from Indiana Jones.
Ancient Theatre at Epidavros in the Peloponnese
The Stadium
Near the tholos and about 400 yards (365m) northwest of the theatre are the remains of the 5th-century BC stadium. Some of the seating and the starting and finishing lines for races can still be seen. It would have been used during the major festival in honour of Asklepios, which was held every four years.
Some Epidavros Fun Facts
The theatre’s main stage, or orchestra, had an altar at its centre.
The back row of seating is about 74 feet (23m) above the ground.
There are 36 sets of steps leading up from the ground to the back row of seats.
Behind the stage there was a reception hall, called a skene, which provided an additional performing space for the actors.
The See Greece guide to Mycenae in the Peloponnese, one of Greece’s top archaeological sites, famous for its royal tombs and Lion Gate.
Beehive Tomb at Mycenae in the Peloponnese
Without doubt, Mycenae (or Mykinai) is the most important historical site on the Peloponnese. The great palace of Mycenae was known as the House of Atreus after the ruler of that name. He was the son of Pelops, who gave his name to the Peloponnese (Peloponissos in Greek).
The ruined complex lies just over a mile (2km) outside the modern village of Mycenae, which straddles the main road between Athens and Nafplion, and the ancient site is clearly signposted.
The first thing you see as you approach, on your left, is the Treasury of Atreus. This beehive tomb is a really impressive structure, especially considering that it was built without a scrap of mortar. You then pass down a long corridor into the main tomb, where the acoustics are startling. Say something out loud to experience this for yourself. Take a look, too, at the hefty lintel over the entrance door, which is 26 feet (8m) long and weighs almost 120 tons.
The Lion Gate
The Curse on the House of Atreus
Greek dramatists tell the grisly story of the curse on the House of Atreus. Atreus’s wife, Aerope, was seduced by his brother, Thyestes. In revenge, Atreus murdered two of Thyestes’s sons, boiled them, and then served them to their father at a banquet. He then showed Thyestes the severed heads of his sons, to let him know what he had just eaten. From then on, Atreus and his descendants – who included Agamemnon, Menelaus, and Orestes – were cursed by the gods.
The Tomb of Agamemnon?
Golden mask of Agamemnon (allegedly) on display at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens and found at Mycenae in the Peloponnese
The Treasury at Mycenae is often referred to as the Tomb of Agamemnon, and although it was indeed a royal burial tomb, there is no evidence to support it being the tomb of Agamemnon. The spot that archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann believed to be the tomb of Agamemnon is at the main site, father along the road. The Treasury dates from the 14th century BC and so would have been used before the time of Agamemnon.
The Lion Gate
Treasury of Atreus at Mycenae in the Peloponnese
The first thing to strike visitors arriving at the main site is the famous Lion Gate, the carved lintel which straddles the entrance. Built in the 13th century BC, it is 12.5 feet (3.75m) wide at the base and almost 11 feet (3.5m) high. Note the grooves in the floor, which were made by chariots, and the holes for bolts at the side to keep the doorway firmly shut, when required.
The Royal Tombs
Gold finds from Mycenae on display at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens
When you pass through the gate, to your right are the circular remains of the royal tombs. In Grave Circle A, as it is known, six graves were discovered, containing a total of 19 bodies. This is where Schliemann found the spectacular golden burial mask which he believed was buried with King Agamemnon. In all, 30 pounds (14kg) of gold in the form of masks, jewelry, crowns, and other items were discovered here, and this treasure haul is one of the major attractions in the National Archaeological Museum in Athens.
The Rest of Mycenae
Mycenae in the Peloponnese
You need to use a certain amount of imagination, and have a map of the site, to make the most of a visit to the rest of Mycenae. There are plenty of foundations to see, and the picture which emerges is of a large royal palace, with huge walls, and an extensive community living just outside the walls and serving the royal court.
The walls themselves were up to 46 feet (14m) thick and were called the Cyclopean Walls, as people later could not understand how they had been built, if not by the one-eyed giants known as the Cyclops.
Destroyed by Fire
The royal palace was destroyed by fire in 1200 BC and the burn marks can still be seen on the foundations that remain. A century later, the site was abandoned and left to decay until its rediscovery by Heinrich Schliemann in 1874. As you wander around today, you can see the remnants of bedchambers, royal apartments, baths, a grand reception hall, and a throne room.
Cyclops
The huge, one-eyed Cyclopes are often maligned, especially due to Odysseus’s encounter with the hungry Polyphemus in The Odyssey, but they do have a presence in classical mythology. They play a pivotal role in Homer’s The Odyssey, and also appear in Hesiod’s Theogony. In the latter, the Cyclopes, banished to Tartarus, are said to have fashioned Zeus’s thunderbolts, Artemis’s bow, and Poseidon’s trident. They also made Perseus’s helmet of darkness.
It’s quite the resumé, but you have to ask how the idea of a race of one-eyed giants made it into the collective imagination. In 1914, palaeontologist Othenio Abel posited that the skulls of prehistoric elephants might have had something to do with it, as they appear to have only one eye socket, which is actually the nasal cavity.
Whether there’s any truth in that or not, the myth of the Cyclopes lives on, their name even being used to describe a medical condition: cyclopia is a congenital defect found in one out of every 16,000 live births, causing the unfortunate child to have only one eye.
