Changing of the Guard in Athens
The Changing of the Guard in Athens takes place outside the Parliament building at the top of Syntagma Square and is a must-see for visitors.
Witnessing the Changing of the Guard
In the heart of Athens, amidst the bustling rhythm of a modern European capital, a timeless spectacle unfolds several times a day – the Changing of the Guard ceremony. More than just a military ritual, it’s a vibrant tapestry woven with history, national pride, and a uniquely Athenian flair.
For visitors and locals alike, witnessing the Evzones, Greece’s elite presidential guard, perform their meticulously choreographed duties is an unforgettable experience, a powerful link to the nation’s past and present.
Where is the Changing of the Guard?
The primary stage for this captivating performance is Syntagma Square, or Constitution Square, the beating heart of Athens. Dominating the eastern side of the square stands the Hellenic Parliament Building, a majestic edifice that once served as the Royal Palace. It’s in front of this historic structure, specifically at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, that the most elaborate and frequently witnessed changing of the guard takes place.
The square itself is a hub of activity, a convergence point for major avenues, public transport, and a constant flow of Athenians and tourists. This setting adds to the ceremony’s grandeur, placing it at the crossroads of daily life and national significance.
When is the Changing of the Guard?
The Changing of the Guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier occurs hourly, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Every hour on the hour, a pair of Evzones, standing as silent sentinels, exchange places with their comrades. While these hourly changes offer a consistent glimpse into the Evzones’ distinctive drill, the most impressive and popular ceremony takes place on Sunday mornings at 11:00 AM.
This larger-scale event features a full marching band and a greater number of Evzones, making for a truly impressive experience. The rhythmic thump of their hobnailed boots, the precise swinging of their arms, and the vibrant colors of their traditional uniforms create a mesmerizing display that draws considerable crowds. Arriving early on Sundays is highly recommended to secure a good viewing spot.
History of the Changing of the Guard
The history of the Changing of the Guard ceremony is intrinsically linked to the history of the building it protects. The Hellenic Parliament Building, a neo-classical masterpiece, was originally commissioned by King Otto, the first king of Greece, and served as the Royal Palace from 1843 until 1935. Following the abolition of the monarchy and the establishment of the Hellenic Republic, the building was converted into the seat of the Greek Parliament in 1935.
The tradition of a ceremonial guard protecting the nation’s most important institutions, whether a palace or a parliament, is a common thread in many countries. In Greece, however, this tradition took on a uniquely national character with the establishment of the Evzones.
The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, unveiled in 1932, further solidified the importance of the guard, transforming their duty into a solemn tribute to all Greek soldiers who have fallen in the defense of their homeland. The ceremony, therefore, is not merely a display of military discipline, but a living memorial, a continuous act of remembrance and national pride.
The Evzones
At the heart of the ceremony are the Evzones, an elite light infantry unit of the Hellenic Army. Their name, meaning “well-girt” or “lightly armored,” hints at their historical role as agile and formidable fighters. What truly sets them apart, however, is their iconic and elaborate traditional uniform. This uniform is not merely decorative; it is deeply symbolic, a tangible link to the various regions and historical struggles of Greece.
Key elements of their unusual uniforms are:
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The Foustanella: Perhaps the most recognizable element is the foustanella, a white kilt-like garment with 400 pleats. Each pleat is said to represent one year of Ottoman rule over Greece, making it a powerful symbol of national resilience and liberation.
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The Farion: On their heads, they wear the farion, a red felt cap with a long black tassel. This cap is often adorned with the Greek national emblem.
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The Doulamas: Depending on the season and specific occasion, the Evzones wear different jackets. The winter uniform features a heavy, dark blue woolen jacket, while the summer uniform includes a lighter, khaki-colored one. Both are intricately embroidered.
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The Krossia: The black fringes on their sleeves, known as krossia, are another distinctive feature.
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The Tsarouchia: Their footwear, the tsarouchia, are perhaps the most fascinating and challenging part of the uniform. These heavy, red leather clogs are adorned with a large black pompom at the toe. Each shoe weighs approximately 3 kilograms (6.6 pounds) and is fitted with 60 nails in the sole, which produce the characteristic rhythmic sound during their synchronized march. The meticulous polishing of the tsarouchia is a constant and demanding task for the Evzones.
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The White Stockings and Garters: Completing the ensemble are white woolen stockings held up by black garter belts.
The precision with which the Evzones execute their movements, from the slow, deliberate “parade step” to the high-kicking “skipping” step, is a testament to their rigorous training and discipline. Their movements are designed not only for ceremonial purposes but also to allow them to maintain alertness and blood circulation during long periods of motionless duty.
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