See Greece offers a free guide to Crete, aimed at first-time visitors to let them know how to plan and what to expect from a Crete vacation.
Aptera in Crete
Let’s be clear from the start. Our Free Guide to Crete is very much aimed at first time visitors who want to know the basics – what to expect when they arrive, what documents they need, how to get around, that kind of thing.
If you’ve been to Crete before, or elsewhere in Greece, then this guide will probably not offer you anything you don’t know. You can still download it if you like, of course! It’s free, and as a PDF you can save it and pass it on to any friends you think might be interested.
Free Guide to Crete: Table of Contents
As for what’s in the guide, just check out the Table of Contents below. You’ll see that it’s very much an overview of what first-time visitors can expect. As such, we’re happy to offer this 37-page guide free to anyone who might get something from it.
Downloading the Free Guide to Crete
To read or download this Free Guide to Crete, click on this lovely picture of Crete.
Wild Abandon by Jennifer Barclay and published by Bradt Guides is A Journey to Deserted Places of the Dodecanese islands in Greece, including Rhodes and Kos.
Wild Abandon by Jennifer Barclay
Bradt Guides publishes excellent guidebooks. However, they also publish some entertaining and usually very different travel narrative books, and Wild Abandon by Jennifer Barclay is one of those.
Jennifer Barclay
Jennifer Barclay is the perfect author for a book like this, as she has made her home on Tilos in the Dodecanese, has lived in Athens, and has travelled widely throughout the Greek islands. She’s also an adventurous traveller and a lover of deserted places, and has written several other books about Greece including Taverna by the Sea, Falling in Honey and An Octopus in my Ouzo.
Jennifer Barclay and her dog Lisa
In Wild Abandon she decides to focus not on the main sites in the Dodecanese, like the Old Town of Rhodes, but visits places few visitors are likely to discover for themselves. Some require some energetic trekking and camping out, and for most of the trips she’s accompanied only by her faithful dog, Lisa. On others, where Lisa has to be left behind for one reason or another, the author travels with an un-named friend.
The Dodecanese
Astypalea
In all she visits eleven of the islands in the group, and as I’ve visited seven of them myself it was a fascinating read… making me now want to visit the four I’ve not been to so far. She includes the main islands, known for their busy tourist areas, like Rhodes and Kos, but you’ll see sides of these islands you probably didn’t know existed. Each island gets a chapter to itself, and the others are: Tilos, Nisyros, Kalymnos, Astypalea, Kastellorizo, Karpathos, Kasos, Chalki, and Arki.
Tilos
Abandoned village on the Greek Island of Tilos
The book starts and ends on Tilos, where the author lives and which naturally she knows intimately. Here, among many places, she talks about the Harkadio Cave, which she can see across the valley from her office desk and is ‘where the last elephants in Europe died four thousand years ago.’ Elephants in Europe only four thousand years ago? This is the kind of entertaining and unexpected fact the author loves to dig out and entertain the reader with.
Nisyros
Nisyros
On Nisyros she uncovers the Pantelidis Baths, a grand therapeutic spa built in 1910, once visited by thousands coming in shiploads but now lying in ruins. Who knew this was on Nisyros? Certainly not me. The Nisyros chapter is typical of the author’s detailed and descriptive writing.
‘As I stand outside the taverna to get a signal on my phone, I watch a little black cat sitting in a hole in the wall. Lisa sees it and growls, and it jumps away. Yiannis, appearing from the kitchen, points to the hole. “Put your hand inside.” I feel warm steam. It’s a geothermal apiria, or blowhole of the volcano.’
Kos
Kos
I realise as I read through Wild Abandon that I could quote from every chapter to give a feel for the book, for the contents and the author’s style. Here, from the chapter on Kos, called ‘Faith in Water’, she discovers the village of Pyli, where not all the houses are inhabited:
‘Others are obviously long abandoned, broken glass in the windows and rubbish in the garden. I tread carefully through tall grass to peek through an open window. There are black-and-white photographs on the mildewed wall. An old black travelling trunk sits open with a New York address painted by hand on the side.’
Don’t you immediately want to know about the trunk, the photographs and the New York address?
Kalymnos
‘Even in August, it felt excitingly wild and empty. The land was dramatic, fearsome even, with craggy grey cliffs, rust-streaked, dropping down steep inclines almost five hundred metres to the sea. Waves surged relentlessly from the northwest into the narrow inlet where aquamarine water almost glowed. I saw a diver in a wetsuit swimming close to the black rocks, then I watched it moving and realised it was a seal.’
Every chapter has gems of lovely, lyrical writing in it, along with detailed descriptions that make you feel you’re standing there alongside the author seeing what she’s seeing.
Kalymnos
Advice
One piece of advice – if you’re reading the book then have this website open alongside you:
The author has put it together to enhance the book, and it’s full of her colour photographs of the islands covered. You can see some of them on this page. Unfortunately I only looked it up after finishing the book and it’s clear that lots of the photos are of places referred to in the text. It will bring the book even more to life if you can see the photos at the same time.
If you’re planning a trip to any of the islands covered in the book, buy a copy of Wild Abandon to sit alongside a conventional guidebook. If you like reading good travel books about Greece, or about anywhere for that matter, then put Wild Abandon on the shopping list or in your Amazon basket. It’s excellent. Or, as Victoria Hislop said: “A vivid and intoxicating account of these beautiful islands”.
A Thing of Beauty by Peter Fiennes describes ‘Travels in Mythical and Modern Greece’ and places the Greek Gods in the context of modern-day Greece.
A Thing of Beauty by Peter Fiennes
Here at See Greece we’re suckers, of course, for travel books about Greece. Our shelves are sagging with them. They include classics like Patrick Leigh Fermor, Lawrence Durrell, and Henry Miller, to more recent must-read titles like Eurydice Street and Wild Abandon. To this list can be added A Thing of Beauty by Peter Fiennes, an evocative and informative book whose sub-title sums it up: Travels in Mythical and Modern Greece.
You would therefore expect his new book about Greece to shine when it comes to the nature writing, and it certainly does, though that is only one part of its multi-faceted appeal. It’s for anyone interested in the Greek Gods and their myths, the Greek countryside and wildlife, Greek politics and history, climate change and sustainable living, whether there’s any hope in the world today… and how many Greek salads can one man eat? If you’re interested in more than one of those topics, it’s definitely the book for you.
Travels in Greece
It’s the theme of the Greek myths which holds the book together, though, as the author travels around the country visiting the places where some of the more famous myths are said to have occurred.
Beginning in Athens and ending in Epirus, via a drive around the Peloponnese, the author retells those myths as well as talking to present-day Greeks – some in pre-arranged meetings and others by chance – and asking everyone the question he’s most curious about: is there hope? It’s a serious question although the book itself is far from sombre, as the author has a light touch and is very funny in places.
Lord Byron
In fact the book begins not in Athens but in Nottinghamshire in England. At Newstead Abbey, to be exact, the ancestral home of George Gordon Byron, 6th Baron Byron, better-known to the world as Lord Byron, poet and Grecophile. The author’s travel plans were scuppered, or at least delayed, by the outbreak of Covid, so he takes the chance to go and see Lord Byron’s home.
And it’s thanks to this that we get a hugely entertaining chapter about Byron and his family, filled with salacious details, leading up to his love affair with Greece. Well, he’d had every other kind of love affair, why not with an entire country?
And while Covid is initially an impediment, it turns out to add what was probably an unexpected dimension to the book. After all, it’s not in the least bit far-fetched to look upon the pandemic as a curse brought down on mankind by the Gods above, Greek or otherwise. This is another theme the author skilfully weaves into the tapestry of his story.
On the Road in Greece
Renting a car, and leaving his wife and son behind after a few family days, the author drives around Greece visiting such places as Eleusis, Corinth, Mycenae, Epidavros, Olympia, Delphi (where he encounters an online Oracle), Messolonghi (where Byron, or at least a bit of him, is buried), and ultimately to the wilds of Epirus, a majestic landscape threatened by voracious oil developers and by fracking.
Lost and Found
While dealing with the immortal (well, some of them) and almighty Gods, the author proves himself to be all-too-human, and very self-deprecating with it. He manages to get lost while hiking, stumbling across German nudists on a beach, and when he has treated himself to a decent hotel for the all-important visit to Delphi, he ends up in the worst room in the building, with the smell of tobacco and the sound of conversation – which is seldom whispered in Greece – both wafting in from a ventilation shaft of some kind.
Epirus
For me the book builds to the best part, towards the end, where the author visits Epirus. Here he meets up with an ornithologist contact, Julian Hoffman, who lives in Prespa, and we’re treated to sightings that show just how rich parts of Greece are in birds and other flora and fauna. Even the ornithologist is impressed by what they see in the Ambracian Gulf, a stone’s throw, literally, from the airport at Preveza which brings holidaymakers in by the charter-flight planeload throughout a normal summer.
In this section I learned where I’m definitely going to eat if I ever find myself in Mitikas, just outside Preveza: the Doctor of Hunger steakhouse, it has to be. It’s also in Epirus, at the Monastery of Rodia, that the author and his ornithologist companion meet an eccentric elderly Greek man named Costas, who for some reason seems to be gathering cyclamen. As they’re about to leave, Costas hands them a bunch of cyclamen and tells them with great feeling: ‘Remember what men are here for. It is to share stories about the things that matter.’
It’s a wonderful summing-up of what’s important in life, and Peter Fiennes should be proud of himself that in his book he has done just that. He’s shared stories about things that matter.
A Rope of Vines by Brenda Chamberlain is an evocative memoir of the author’s time living on the Greek island of Hydra in the early 1960s.
A Rope of Vines by Brenda Chamberlain
A Rope of Vines begins with the kind of opening sentence that compels you to read on:
I have returned to the good mothers of Efpraxia while my friend Leonidas serves sentence for manslaughter of an English tourist in the port of Ydra.
Ydra is an alternative spelling for Hydra, of course, and Efpraxia is a convent on the island, where the author stays for a part of the time during the six years that she lives on Hydra. She returns to the story of Leonidas later in the memoir, naturally, and we learn what exactly happened down in the port.
A Rope of Vines: The Author
Brenda Chamberlain (1912-71) was a Welsh writer and artist who moved to Hydra in the Saronic Gulf Islands, not far from Athens, in 1961, having previously lived on the Welsh island of Bardsey for 15 years, an experience she also wrote about. She returned to Wales in 1967 and died in Bangor, where she had been born, only four years later. She wrote fiction, prose and poetry, and her paintings are on display in several collections in Wales, and in London.
A Rope of Vines: The Book
A Rope of Vines by Brenda Chamberlain
A Rope of Vines was first published in 1965, when the author was still living on Hydra, and republished in 2009 by the Library of Wales, which holds her papers. It’s a fairly short book of less than 150 pages, which also include many of the author’s line drawings of Hydra, mostly of buildings but a few including people too.
It may be a short book but it is also very intense. There are vibrant scenes of people, incidents, wildlife, scenery, and especially the weather, and its intense heat. Hydra is a bare and rocky island, where cacti grow, and it’s ironic that its name is the Greek word for ‘water’, yet it has to bring in most of its water by boat.
Life on Hydra
A Rope of Vines gives you very much a behind-the-scenes look at life on Hydra. The author lives in a house high up above and away from the port, which even then bustles with life and visitors. She dislikes the port and all its transient activity, and the Hydra described in these pages is the Hydra of ordinary people. They’re the people who live simple lives, with hand-to-mouth existences, some with emotional and physical problems. It’s a day-to-day existence which is captured, warts and all, in the pages of A Rope of Vines.
The title, incidentally, comes from the way fishermen used to tie their boats up with a rope made from twisted vines, before proper ropes and metal ties became widely available. It’s the way she sees herself tied to the island.
Leonard Cohen on Hydra
Don’t turn to this book, as I did, if you expect to read at least a little something about one of Hydra’s most famous residents in the early 1960s, Leonard Cohen. His life on the island overlaps with that of Brenda Chamberlain, though the bohemian art scene of which he was a part gets no mention in the book. It’s not that his life there was secretive. While living there he published his poetry collection Flowers for Hitler (1964), as well as his novels The Favourite Game (1963) and Beautiful Losers (1966).
Indeed, TripAdvisor has a long thread about how to find Leonard Cohen’s house on Hydra. As both were writers and artists, and foreigners on Hydra, it’s unlikely they wouldn’t at least have known of each other’s existence. But Chamberlain’s writing is more inward-looking. As artist Shani Rhys-James points out in her introduction to the Library of Wales edition, she makes a hike and camps out overnight on a pilgrimage with an English family, yet we learn nothing at all about the family, though the descriptions of the hike, the landscape, the wildlife and the experience are brought vividly to life.
It has to be said that this won’t be a book for everyone. The style can be florid and very intensely personal, and sometimes the stories can be vague and mysterious. We never do find out, for example, the nature of her relationship with Leonidas. Were they friends or lovers? The reader will never know.
Buying A Rope of Vines
The book is well worth buying, for anyone who wants to learn a little more about Greek family life, and what goes on away from the tourist zones.
If you have any interest in Hydra, you’ll want to read it as the author does visit a lot of the island, going on hikes and describing the flora and fauna beautifully. Her artist’s eye and her poet’s use of language make this an exceptional and unusual book about Greece.
See Greece reviews the Greek cookbook, The Ikaria Way by Diane Kochilas, containing 100 delicious plant-based recipes.
The Ikaria Way Cookbook
We recently reviewed the excellent cookbook Ikaria by Meni Valle, and some recipes from that book have become keepers for us, part of our regular ‘go-to’ dishes. And now along comes The Ikaria Way by Diane Kochilas, who is actually from Ikaria originally. We guess everyone just wants to know the secret of why the island of Ikaria is one of the world’s Blue Zones, where people live for much longer than average.
One reason is certainly that they eat a amore plant-based diet than other people (even in Greece), and in The Ikaria Way the author collects 100 plant-based recipes inspired by Ikaria, which she calls ‘the Greek island of longevity’. The New York Times called it the island where ‘people forget to die.’
The Ikaria Way
The Ikaria Way is far more than just a cookbook, though. It’s a guide to healthier eating, and if you have specific health issues it’s a guide to what kinds of food you should be eating to try to help heal your body.
The first chapter alone is worth buying the book for: ‘A pantry inspired by Ikaria’. In it the author goes through the kinds of things you’ll find in most Ikaria kitchens, telling you a little bit about them, where they originated, what you can do with them, and, most importantly, what health benefits they have. For example, adding more beans and pulses to your diet is known to increase longevity, while chickpeas in particular have been shown to reduce the risk of heart disease.
Garlic is Good for You
Garlic is in almost all the recipes in this book, which is good as its healthful properties have been known since the days of the ancient Greeks. Athletes used to consume it to enhance their performance during the Ancient Olympic Games. Greek soldiers used to have a garlic-filled diet, especially before going into battle. I suppose if you ate enough of it, your enemy wouldn’t want to come near you anyway.
There are whole sections dealing with dried herbs, fresh herbs, nuts (rich in vitamins and healthy fats), olives and olive oil, and the benefits of sea salt over processed table salt, which has most of its nutrients removed.
Naturally there are entries for the two ingredients which make up the best breakfast in the world: Greek yogurt and honey. Both of these are excellent for your health, and honey is far batter for you as a sweetener than sugar.
And Then There Are the Recipes!
From The Ikaria Way Cookbook
Reading about the ingredients certainly makes you keen to try some of the recipes which then follow. They’re divided into seven categories: meze, salads, soups, bean dishes, grain dishes, plant-based main courses, and drinks, including a herbal tea and some tasty-sounding smoothies. Naturally everything is accompanied by some equally tasty photography, both of the island and the dishes.
Sprouts and Mushrooms
One recipe we’ll definitely be trying is Pan Shaken Brussels Sprouts and Mushrooms. Caramelised Brussels sprouts are one of our favourite tastes, and we usually roast them in the oven till they’re crunchy and almost black on the outside. The thought of doing them in the pan with mushrooms, olive oil, garlic, a strip of orange zest, some star anise, thyme, and a little dry white wine has us salivating already. Mushrooms are also very good for you and are known to have anti-cancerous properties.
Another meze idea that sounds good is Roasted Carrots with Honey, Olives and Garlic. The flavours here are enhanced with thyme again (herbs are such an important part of Greek cooking), and some dry white wine. Yes, there are some wineries on Ikaria but the author says you could use a dry sauvignon blanc instead.
Other recipes that caught our eye included Pasta with Mushrooms and Chestnuts and definitely Garlicky Red Lentil Soup. Garlic and lentils? I feel healthier just for reading the recipe! This Ikaria cookbook is certainly one we’ll be using.
Buying The Ikaria Way
If you’ve read so far you know we really like this book, and if you want to check it out more you’ll find it on Amazon.
Ikaria by Meni Valle, brings together the best and healthiest Greek recipes with an evocative travelogue about Ikaria, one of the world’s Blue Zone places.
What is special about Ikaria is that it is one of only five places in the world that has been designated a so-called Blue Zone. A Blue Zone is an area where people live for longer than average, with about one person in every three living into their 90s. There are many reasons for this, but a major factor is diet. The only other Blue Zone place in the Mediterranean is Sardinia, with the others being in Japan, California, and Costa Rica.
Ikaria Book Review
What better place in Greece, then, to have a cookbook devoted to traditional recipes from than Ikaria? This is more than just a collection of recipes, though. It’s also a beautifully-written and photographed handsome coffee-table book, though I expect my copy to soon be spattered with olive oil stains as we try out some of the recipes.
Ikaria Author
The author of Ikaria, which is sub-titled Food and Life in the Blue Zone, is Meni Valle. Valle is an Australian Greek cookbook author and food teacher, who also leads culinary tours to Greece, naturally including to Ikaria. Some of her other books include My Greek Kitchen and My Mediterranean Kitchen.
Superb Photography
The photography in the book is by Tessa Kiros, who specialises in food and travel photography and whose father is a Greek Cypriot. She is also an author, though, and her own books include Food from Many Greek Kitchens.
Travels in Ikaria
The author and photographer travel together to get the photos for the book, to collect the recipes, and to meet the people of Ikaria. They talk to women in their own kitchens about their traditional dishes, and to people they meet on the way about the secret to long life on Ikaria.
The author asks one man: ‘What do you think is the secret to longevity?’ He answers: ‘Meni, here in Ikaria we do not try to add years to our life. Instead we add life to our years. We make the most of every day.
Ikaria Recipes
The recipes in the book are largely vegetarian. This isn’t a choice by the author, but it’s simply a reflection of the diet on Ikaria. Many of their dishes are made from fresh seasonal ingredients, and though there is a section on Seafood and Meat it has only ten recipes in it. The majority of these are seafood recipes, as fresh seafood is also a big contributor to a healthy diet. It isn’t that red meat is ignored, but on Ikaria it’s an occasional treat rather than something people eat several times a week.
As well as Seafood and Meat, the recipes are divided into Salads, Accompaniments, Vegetables, Legumes, Pasta, Bread and Pies, and Sweets. As well as the recipe itself, and the instructions, each recipe also has a little introduction. Some of these make suggestions for variations on the recipe, some suggest what goes well with the dish, while others are longer background stories about either the dish or the ingredients.
All in all, this works whether you’re interested in Greek recipes or wanting to read about Ikaria. If you’re interested in both, it’s a gem!
Buying Ikaria
Ikaria: Food and Life in the Blue Zone by Meni Valle is published by Hardie Grant Books and is available from their website. It’s also available from Amazon.
