The Temple of Bassae in Messenia in the Peloponnese of Greece is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most important archaeological sites in Greece.
The Temple of Apollo Epikourios at Bassae in the Peloponnese
The Temple of Bassae (or Vassae) is also known as the Temple of Apollo Epicurius. The name Bassae is an Ancient Greek word meaning ‘the little vale in the rocks’. It was the first place in Greece to be included on UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites, even ahead of the Acropolis.
Bassae is one of the least visited of the many important archaeological sites in the Peloponnese. It’s in a remote setting in Messenia, about a 20-minute winding drive south of the mountain village of Andritsaina. It’s a rugged part of the country, and visiting here is real Greek travel. We spent the night in Andritsaina and drove straight to the Temple of Bassae after breakfast. It is a truly remarkable place.
Andritsaina
Andritsaina is somewhere between a town and a village, with a population of about 2,000 people. Although it’s not on the well-trodden tourist trail, it does have a few small hotels and tavernas. It’s well worth a night’s stay before or after visiting Bassae, for some hearty mountain food, and some great views.
Andritsaina stands at an elevation of 705 m (2,313 ft), with the Temple of Bassae even higher at 1,131 m (3,711 ft). It’s only a few miles from Andritsaina to the temple.
Map (c) Google Maps
Visiting the Temple of Bassae
What’s unusual about the temple is that it is considered so precious that a huge protective covering has been erected over it, to shield it from the elements, while excavation and conservation work is carried out. It’s a very strange experience, as from the outside it looks a bit like a circus tent, and you feel privileged to pop your head inside and see the temple itself.
It’s also a very dramatic experience, and the intimacy of being inside the tent with the temple makes the well-preserved building seem all the more impressive and imposing.
History of the Temple of Bassae
The temple was built in the 5th century BC and dedicated to Apollo Epikourios (Apollo the Helper). It’s believed to have been designed by the architect Iktinos, who was one of the two architects responsible for the Parthenon in Athens.
The temple was used up until about the 4th or 5th century AD, when the Romans closed what they regarded as pagan temples in Greece. It’s unusual in that it has examples of all three styles of Greek columns: Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian. In fact the Corinthian capital here is the oldest known example in Greece.
As with the Parthenon in Athens, the temple was plundered by the British, including the magnificent frieze. This is now on display in the British Museum in London, alongside the Parthenon Marbles. Is it too much to hope that one day it will be returned and put back in its right place on the Temple of Bassae?
Architectural Significance
Three Classical Orders: It is unique among ancient Greek temples for incorporating all three classical architectural orders: Doric (for the exterior peristyle), Ionic (for the interior columns), and the earliest known surviving example of a Corinthian capital (on a single column in the center of the interior).
Architect: The temple is traditionally attributed to Iktinos, the famous architect who also designed the Parthenon in Athens, though this attribution is sometimes debated by modern scholars.
Unusual Orientation: Unlike most Greek temples that are oriented east-west, the Temple of Bassae is oriented north-south, believed by some to be for cultic reasons, such as aligning with the summer solstice sunrise.
Design: Built between approximately 420 and 400 BC, it combines archaic features (such as its elongated shape with a 6×15 column ratio) with the serenity of the Classical Doric style and daring innovations, marking a turning point in temple architecture.
The See Greece guide to the ancient archaeological site of Tiryns, near Mycenae, in the Peloponnese of Greece, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Where is Tiryns?
From Athens to Tiryns Map (c) Google Maps
Tiryns is about 20 kms (12 miles) south of Mycenae, and 5 kms (3.1 miles) north of Nafplion in the Peloponnese of Greece. If you’re based in Nafplion it’s easy to combine visits to the two sites in one day, or if you’re driving from Athens to Nafplion and make an early start you can also visit both sites on your journey.
Tiryns is about a 90-minute drive from Athens, or about two hours from Athens International Airport. There is some accommodation near Tiryns but our advice would be to stay in Nafplion and make the 5-minute drive to Tiryns.
Ancient Tiryns on the Peloponnese in Greece
Why Is Tiryns Famous?
The site is mainly famous for its impressive fortifications, which date back to the Bronze Age, and for being one of the main centers of the Mycenaean civilisation.
How Old is Tiryns?
The earliest evidence of settlement in Tiryns dates back to the Neolithic period, around 4000 BC. However, it was during the Bronze Age that the site became an important center of Mycenaean culture, which flourished in Greece between 1600 and 1100 BC.
Mycenean Civilisation
The Mycenaean civilisation is known for its monumental architecture, including large palaces, tombs, and fortifications. Tiryns is particularly famous for its fortifications, which were built in several phases between the 15th and the 13th centuries BC. The walls of Tiryns are among the most impressive and well-preserved examples of Mycenaean military architecture.
Tiryns Fortifications
The first fortifications at Tiryns were built around 1500 BC, during the Middle Helladic period. These walls were made of stone and mud-brick, and they encircled the hill on which the palace and other buildings were located. However, these walls were not very strong and were replaced by new, more massive walls around 1400 BC.
Ancient Tiryns on the Peloponnese in Greece
The Walls of Tiryns
The new walls were built of huge limestone blocks, some of which weigh over 10 tons. These blocks were carefully fitted together without mortar, using a technique called “Cyclopean masonry,” which is named after the mythical race of giants who were said to have built the walls. The walls were up to 7 meters (23 feet) thick and over 10 meters (33 feet) high, with towers and bastions at strategic points.
The construction of such massive walls required a large workforce and a high degree of organization. It’s believed that the Mycenaean rulers of Tiryns controlled a large territory and had access to a substantial labor force, including slaves and prisoners of war.
The Palace of Tiryns
The Palace of Tiryns was located within the walls and was the residence of the Mycenaean rulers. The palace was a complex of buildings, including a central hall, private rooms, and storage areas. The central hall was the most impressive part of the palace and was used for public ceremonies, feasts, and other important events. The hall had a large hearth in the center and was decorated with frescoes and other artworks.
Tiryns was an important center of Mycenaean culture and played a role in the wider Mediterranean world. The Mycenaeans were skilled traders and sailors and maintained contacts with other civilisations, such as the Minoans on the island of Crete and the Egyptians.
Tiryns and the Trojan War
Tiryns was also involved in the Trojan War, which is described in Homer’s Iliad. According to the legend, the Mycenaean king Agamemnon gathered a large army at Tiryns and sailed to Troy to recover his wife, who had been kidnapped by the Trojan prince Paris.
Rediscovery of Tiryns
In the centuries that followed, Tiryns declined in importance and was eventually abandoned. The site was rediscovered in the 19th century by German archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann, who also excavated the nearby site of Mycenae. It’s now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Corinth has four aspects to it, which are the Corinth canal, the modern town of Corinth, nearby Ancient Corinth, and above that Akrokorinthos or Upper Corinth.
Ancient Corinth in the Peloponnese
The Corinth Canal
The Corinth (Korinthos) Canal is one of the great sights of Greece. With luck, you might be there when a ship is being steered between the narrow, sheer walls which stretch away in the distance to link the Gulf of Corinth with the Aegean Sea. The only way to see it – apart from taking a boat through it – is to take the main road from Athens onto the Peloponnese, which crosses over the canal. You can park and get out to have a lovely view down the canal, an engineering marvel which effectively turned the Peloponnese into a giant island.
The Corinth Canal in the Peloponnese
Roman Emperor Nero (37-68 AD) first mooted the idea of cutting a canal through the isthmus so that ships could sail from Italy into the Aegean without going all the way round the Peloponnese. He performed the first symbolic excavation in person, using a silver shovel, but the task was never completed. Ships continued to sail up the Gulf of Corinth, unload their cargoes, , and have them carried the 3.5 miles (6 km) to a ship waiting on the far side rather than risk losing the cargo on the sometimes stormy circuit around the Peloponnese.
It wasn’t until 1893, after a total of 12 years work, that the 75-foot (23-metre) Corinth Canal was finally cut through, enabling boats to sail directly to Piraeus. The canal is still used, though less so these days as it isn’t large enough to take the latest super-tankers.
Modern Corinth
A few miles beyond the canal (if coming from Athens) is the modern town of Corinth, which detains few visitors except maybe as a refueling stop. It’s mainly an agricultural service town, and it’s interesting to know that it’s the centre of the Greek currant industry: the word ‘currant’ actually derives from the name Corinth. There are hotels and restaurants if you need to spend the night, but the charms of Nafplion are little more than an hour’s drive away, so head there for the evening.
Ancient Corinth
Ancient Corinth in the Peloponnese
Beyond the modern town, the site of Ancient Corinth is to the south of the main road. Regular buses from modern Corinth also take visitors to and from the site. The site really comes to life as you walk around the well-preserved remains which are dominated by a Temple of Apollo from the 5th century BC. With its massive Doric columns, this is one of the buildings that the Romans left when they redeveloped the city as their provincial capital in 44BC.
The city was once home to 300,000 citizens and 460,000 more who were slaves – a total population bigger than modern-day Denver, Boston, or Washington DC. The smallest buildings are the ones that speak of the history: the remnants of shops, houses, and administrative buildings. The Peirine Fountain was a gift from Herodes Atticus, the wealthy Athenian, patron and friend of the Romans, and the spring beneath it still provides the water supply for the modern town of Corinth.
Ancient Corinth in the Peloponnese
The Archaeological Museum on the site has a good display of remains found there. Some lovely mosaics, mostly dating from the second-century AD Roman period, are a good indication of the city’s wealth at that time. Domestic vases, pottery, and jewelry all give the collection a more human scale.
Upper Corinth
Overlooking the lower city from the hilltop 2.5 miles (4 km) away was Akrokorinthos, or Upper Corinth. To get here you’ll need a car or take a taxi from Corinth, and though it’s a bit steep you can hike it or bike it too. Akrokorinthos’s walls and spectacular views are the chief reasons to visit.
When you see the position the city commands, you realise its strategic importance and why it was refortified by every subsequent wave of invaders, including the Venetians, the Franks, and the Turks. The walls run for 1.25 miles (2 km) around the 60-acre (24-hectare) site, where you can find the remains of chapels, mosques, houses, fortifications, and the still-working Turkish Fountain of Hatzi Mustafa.
A Thing of Beauty by Peter Fiennes describes ‘Travels in Mythical and Modern Greece’ and places the Greek Gods in the context of modern-day Greece.
A Thing of Beauty by Peter Fiennes
Here at See Greece we’re suckers, of course, for travel books about Greece. Our shelves are sagging with them. They include classics like Patrick Leigh Fermor, Lawrence Durrell, and Henry Miller, to more recent must-read titles like Eurydice Street and Wild Abandon. To this list can be added A Thing of Beauty by Peter Fiennes, an evocative and informative book whose sub-title sums it up: Travels in Mythical and Modern Greece.
You would therefore expect his new book about Greece to shine when it comes to the nature writing, and it certainly does, though that is only one part of its multi-faceted appeal. It’s for anyone interested in the Greek Gods and their myths, the Greek countryside and wildlife, Greek politics and history, climate change and sustainable living, whether there’s any hope in the world today… and how many Greek salads can one man eat? If you’re interested in more than one of those topics, it’s definitely the book for you.
Travels in Greece
It’s the theme of the Greek myths which holds the book together, though, as the author travels around the country visiting the places where some of the more famous myths are said to have occurred.
Beginning in Athens and ending in Epirus, via a drive around the Peloponnese, the author retells those myths as well as talking to present-day Greeks – some in pre-arranged meetings and others by chance – and asking everyone the question he’s most curious about: is there hope? It’s a serious question although the book itself is far from sombre, as the author has a light touch and is very funny in places.
Lord Byron
In fact the book begins not in Athens but in Nottinghamshire in England. At Newstead Abbey, to be exact, the ancestral home of George Gordon Byron, 6th Baron Byron, better-known to the world as Lord Byron, poet and Grecophile. The author’s travel plans were scuppered, or at least delayed, by the outbreak of Covid, so he takes the chance to go and see Lord Byron’s home.
And it’s thanks to this that we get a hugely entertaining chapter about Byron and his family, filled with salacious details, leading up to his love affair with Greece. Well, he’d had every other kind of love affair, why not with an entire country?
And while Covid is initially an impediment, it turns out to add what was probably an unexpected dimension to the book. After all, it’s not in the least bit far-fetched to look upon the pandemic as a curse brought down on mankind by the Gods above, Greek or otherwise. This is another theme the author skilfully weaves into the tapestry of his story.
On the Road in Greece
Renting a car, and leaving his wife and son behind after a few family days, the author drives around Greece visiting such places as Eleusis, Corinth, Mycenae, Epidavros, Olympia, Delphi (where he encounters an online Oracle), Messolonghi (where Byron, or at least a bit of him, is buried), and ultimately to the wilds of Epirus, a majestic landscape threatened by voracious oil developers and by fracking.
Lost and Found
While dealing with the immortal (well, some of them) and almighty Gods, the author proves himself to be all-too-human, and very self-deprecating with it. He manages to get lost while hiking, stumbling across German nudists on a beach, and when he has treated himself to a decent hotel for the all-important visit to Delphi, he ends up in the worst room in the building, with the smell of tobacco and the sound of conversation – which is seldom whispered in Greece – both wafting in from a ventilation shaft of some kind.
Epirus
For me the book builds to the best part, towards the end, where the author visits Epirus. Here he meets up with an ornithologist contact, Julian Hoffman, who lives in Prespa, and we’re treated to sightings that show just how rich parts of Greece are in birds and other flora and fauna. Even the ornithologist is impressed by what they see in the Ambracian Gulf, a stone’s throw, literally, from the airport at Preveza which brings holidaymakers in by the charter-flight planeload throughout a normal summer.
In this section I learned where I’m definitely going to eat if I ever find myself in Mitikas, just outside Preveza: the Doctor of Hunger steakhouse, it has to be. It’s also in Epirus, at the Monastery of Rodia, that the author and his ornithologist companion meet an eccentric elderly Greek man named Costas, who for some reason seems to be gathering cyclamen. As they’re about to leave, Costas hands them a bunch of cyclamen and tells them with great feeling: ‘Remember what men are here for. It is to share stories about the things that matter.’
It’s a wonderful summing-up of what’s important in life, and Peter Fiennes should be proud of himself that in his book he has done just that. He’s shared stories about things that matter.
Argos is one of the top archaeological sites in the Peloponnese, one of the oldest cities in Europe, and with museums and a theatre bigger than Epidavros.
Panoramic View of Argos from the Castle of Larissa
Argos’s claim to fame is that it is the oldest continuously-inhabited city in the whole of Europe, and one of the oldest in the world, with a history going back over 7,000 years. It has a lovely setting at the foot of Mount Chaon, and although it’s not really a major name on the tourist trail it has plenty to see and reward a day or two’s visit.
The History of Argos
During the Late Bronze Age (c. 1700–1100 BCE), Argos flourished as a Mycenaean settlement, though it was overshadowed by nearby Mycenae and Tiryns. The city was built around the hills of Aspis and Larissa, and archaeological finds—including tholos tombs—attest to its significance in this era.
In mythology, Argos was ruled by legendary figures such as Diomedes and was closely associated with Hera, who had a major sanctuary nearby. Homer’s Iliad celebrates Argive warriors among the Greek forces at Troy.
The Heraion Plain around Argos
Following the collapse of the Mycenaean civilization, Argos remained inhabited through the Greek Dark Ages and re-emerged as a dominant city-state in the Archaic period. Under King Pheidon in the 7th century BCE, Argos reached its zenith, pioneering military innovations and defeating Sparta at Hysiae in 669 BCE.
However, Sparta eventually eclipsed Argos, defeating it in 550 and 494 BCE. Argos allied with Athens during the Peloponnesian War but later shifted allegiances, joining Corinth and Thebes in various conflicts.
In the Hellenistic period, Argos became part of the Achaean League and remained influential until Roman times. The city prospered under Roman rule, with notable constructions like its grand theatre and baths.
Despite invasions and decline, Argos endured through Byzantine, Ottoman, and modern eras. Today, it stands as a vibrant town, rich in archaeological heritage and historical legacy, a living testament to Greece’s enduring past.
Argos Archaeological Sites
Ancient Theater at Argos in the Peloponnese
There is no one single archaeological site, but the various archaeological remains are spread throughout the modern city. This makes it unusual, seeing the different layers of life in different places as you move around town. Most archaeological sites in Greece are slightly away from the modern cities which grew up nearby, and everything is in the one place.
Other Argos Sites
Argos has some Roman baths, and a theater that is actually bigger than the more famous one at Epidavros, which is about a 40-minute drive to the east. It could seat up to 20,000 people. Looking at the ruins now it’s hard to imagine just what these theatres would have been like when operating. The orchestra stalls here could be flooded to enable naval battles to be acted out in front of the stage, with action going on behind. Quite a spectacle.
There’s also an acropolis, an ancient agora, and the very unusual Pyramid of Hellinikon. There are several of these in Greece, and although no-one knows for sure what they were used for, it’s thought they may have been inspired by the pyramids in Egypt.
Argos Museums
Argos Archaeological Museum
The Archaeological Museum of Argos is a treasure trove of ancient Greek history, housed in a unique architectural blend of neoclassical and modern styles. Located at the intersection of Vasilissis Olgas and Kallergis streets in Argos, the museum occupies the historic 1830 residence of General Dimitrios Kallergis, alongside a modern wing added in 1961 with support from the French Archaeological School.
Its collection spans from the Mid-Helladic period (c. 2000 BCE) to Late Antiquity (c. 600 CE), showcasing finds from major excavations at Aspida, Deirada, the ancient agora, the Roman theatre, and Lerna.
Highlights include:
A bronze cuirass and helmet from the 8th century BCE, discovered in the “Tomb of the Warrior”
A Proto-Argive crater depicting Odysseus blinding Polyphemus (670–650 BCE)
Minoan-style pottery and geometric-era ceramics, including pomegranate models symbolizing Hera
Roman mosaics in the courtyard, illustrating the twelve months and seasonal festivities
A Farnese-style statue of Heracles, a Roman copy of Lysippus’s original work
The museum also features the “Lerna Room,” dedicated to prehistoric finds from the nearby site of Lerna, including one of Europe’s oldest sculptural representations of the human form.
Argos Epigraphic Museum
The Epigraphic Museum in Argos on the Peloponnese
This new museum, opened in 2023, is a 2-minute walk east of the Archaeological Museum, and housed in the Kapodistrias Barracks, an impressive building worth seeing in itself. At first it might sound a little specialised, containing only tablets and stone inscriptions, but it reveals ancient life in and around Argos in fascinating detail. Some of the bronze tablets go back to the 4th century BC and are considered to be of international historic significance.
The See Greece guide to the top archaeological sites in the Peloponnese including Epidavros, Olympia, Mycenae, Mystras, Tiryns, and Argos.
Beehive Tomb at Mycenae in the Peloponnese
The Peloponnese has some of the best archaeological sites in Greece, so many that you would need to spend a few weeks there in order to visit them all. Mystras alone could easily take up a day of your time, so sprawling is the site and with a lot of climbing up and down.
These are the top archaeological sites in the Peloponnese, in alphabetical order.
Argos
Ancient Theater at Argos in the Peloponnese
Argos’s claim to fame is that it is the oldest continuously-inhabited city in the whole of Europe, and one of the oldest in the world. It has a lovely setting at the foot of Mount Chaon, and although it’s not really a major name on the tourist trail it has plenty to see and reward a day or two’s visit.
There is no one single archaeological site, but the various archaeological remains are spread throughout the modern city. This makes it unusual, seeing the different layers of life in the same place. Most archaeological sites in Greece are slightly away from the modern cities which grew up nearby.
Argos has some Roman baths, and a theater that is actually bigger than the more famous one at Epidavros, which is about a 40-minute drive to the east. There’s also an acropolis, an ancient agora, and the very unusual Pyramid of Hellinikon. There are several of these in Greece, and although no-one knows for sure what they were used for, it’s thought they may have been inspired by the pyramids in Egypt.
The Temple of Apollo Epikourios at Bassae on the Peloponnese in Greece
Bassae is a remote site, set up high, just south of the lovely mountain village of Andritsaina, Andritsaina is well worth a stop, either for lunch or overnight, to get to Bassae early in the morning. The site is remarkable for the stunning 5th-century Temple of Apollo Epicurius (‘Apollo the helper’), which is so precious it has to be covered with a protective tent.
In 1986 Bassae was the first archaeological site in Greece to be placed on UNESCO’s World Heritage List. It was noted for the Bassae Frieze, which is now on display in the British Museum in London, and its remote location means that it has been spared the damage and destruction received by other monuments in major towns and cities.
Corinth
Ancient Corinth in the Peloponnese
There are actually two archaeological sites to see at Corinth. If you’re visiting the Peloponnese from Athens, Ancient Corinth might well be your first stop, once you’re over the Corinth Canal, and it has various parts to it which are in and around the modern town. These include a Roman amphitheatre and a cemetery, and it’s worth visiting the archaeological museum as at one time Ancient Corinth was one of the most important cities in Greece, with an estimated population of about 90,000 in 400 BC.
A 5-minute drive away in a spectacular hilltop location overlooking the modern town is the site of Acrocorinth (‘Upper Corinth’). This sprawls across the hilltop and with its own water supply this was an impressive fortress until the 19th century, though no-one knows for certain when it was founded. It goes back to Mycenean times at least.
Epidavros
Ancient Theatre at Epidavros in the Peloponnese
Ancient Epidavros (or Epidaurus) is definitely a must-see archaeological site in the Peloponnese. It’s most famous for its remarkable theatre, which was built in the 4th century BC and the 14,000-seater is still in use today for the annual Athens and Epidavros Festival. However, there is much more to the site than this. It was used as a healing centre, as the whole site was dedicated to Asclepius, the God of Medicine.
The Sanctuary of Asclepius was founded in the 6th century BC and had many shrines and several hospitals. It’s about a 30-minute drive east of Nafplion, which makes a good base for seeing several of the top archaeological sites in the Peloponnese, including Argos, Mycenae and Tiryns, as well as Epidavros. See our Epidavros page for more details.
Isthmia
A 15-minute drive from Corinth, modern Isthmia straddles the Corinth Canal but archaeological remains including the Temple of Poseidon are in the Peloponnese on the western side of the canal. The temple, also known as the Temple of Isthmia, is thought to date from about the 7th century BC. Isthmia also has a bath house with well-preserved mosaic floors, and was the site of the Isthmian Games, and you can see the remains of several stadiums.
Messene
Ancient Messene, to give it its full name, is a 40-minute drive north of Kalamata in the southern Peloponnese. The site was only excavated in the 1980s and it is one of the most comprehensive archaeological sites in the Peloponnese, if not the whole of Greece. Here you can see temples, a stadium, a gymnasium, and a theatre that held 10,000 people, amongst other remains.
Mycenae
Mycenae in the Peloponnese
Mycenae is about a 30-minute drive north of Nafplion, and is probably the top archaeological site in the Peloponnese. It was so important that it gave its name to a whole period of Greek history. There’s evidence that this particular site was first occupied as early as 5000 BC, but by the 2nd millennium BC it was known as the City of Golf and housed the royal palace of the Trojan War hero, King Agamemnon.
Much of the site was excavated by the German archaeologist Howard Schliemann, and though he made some mistakes in his over-enthusiasm for what he was finding, we owe him a debt of gratitude for what he uncovered. See our separate Mycenae page for more details.
Mystras
Mystras in the Peloponnese
Mystras is one of the most remarkable places in Greece. It isn’t a conventional archaeological site but the remains of an entire town built on a hill, and which was inhabited till the 1830s. It is another of the must-see sites in the Peloponnese. A few nuns still live in one of the town’s convents, and in addition you can see churches, the remains of palaces, and the remains of the huge hilltop fortress. See more on our Mystras page.
Nemea
The Nemean Games
The site of Ancient Nemea is about a 30-minute drive southwest from Corinth, a 20-minute drive north of Mycenae, and just to the east of the modern town of Nemea. It makes this northeast corner of the Peloponnese rich in archaeological sites, with Tiryns, Argos and Epidavros all being fairly close by. The area around here has been inhabited since at least 6,000 BC, and by 573 BC this was the site of the Nemean Games. These were held every two years until 271 BC, after which they were moved to Argos, 25 km (16 miles) due south.
Olympia
Ancient Olympia on the Peloponnese in Greece
The archaeological site of Ancient Olympia, original home of the Olympic Games, is something not to be missed when visiting the Peloponnese. The games were first held here in 776 BC and continued to run every four years for over 1,000 years. It’s quite a thrill to walk out onto the original running track, and you can also see the archaeological equivalent of the Olympic Village. The nearby modern town of Olympia also has an archaeological museum and a museum devoted to the Olympic Games.
Sparta
Sanctuary of Menelaus at Sparta on the Peloponnese in Greece
Few places see their names enter the language, but the former city-state of Sparta is where we get the word ‘spartan’ from. They were a formidable military power, mainly responsible for Greece’s victory in the Greco-Persian Wars, and even defeated their rivals Athens in the Peloponnesian Wars. The site is just to the north of the modern city limits, with the ruins of a theatre, a temple, and other remains.
Tiryns
Ancient Tiryns on the Peloponnese in Greece
A 5-minute drive north from Nafplion, going towards Mycenae, brings you to another Peloponnesian archaeological site worth seeing. Tiryns was a hilltop fortress and has been inhabited for several thousand years before becoming a significant Mycenean city, to rival Mycenae itself. Today’s ruins can’t rival those at Mycenae, which is a 20-minute drive north, but they’re still worth seeing and became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999.
The See Greece guide to Epidavros in the Peloponnese, one of the top archaeological sites in Greece and famous for its ancient theatre.
Ancient Theatre at Epidavros in the Peloponnese
To see Epidavros (or Epidaurus) empty is impressive enough, and if you are lucky enough to attend one of the summer performances here, the effect is truly magical. The theatre is used to put on performances during the Athens and Epidavros Festival every summer.
Because much of Epidavros appears overgrown, many visitors do not take the trouble to explore it, leaving after a look at its most famous feature, the theatre. Look for the signs that direct you to the various remains, and if you can arm yourself with a map, and go first to the museum and not straight to the theatre, you’ll have a much more rewarding visit.
Epidavros Theatre
Ancient Theatre at Epidavros in the Peloponnese
The theatre was built in the 4th century BC, and has 55 rows of seats, capable of holding 14,000 people. The stage is 65 feet (20m) in diameter. It’s hard to believe that such a huge structure lay buried and undiscovered until excavations began in the late 19th century.
It was finally restored in 1954 and it’s worth noting that the first 34 rows of the auditorium are all original. Imagine these very same seats being used by people living almost 2,500 years ago. The audience, especially those higher up, look out across the stage and the site of Epidavros to the mountains beyond. It’s a spectacular setting.
The God of Healing
Ancient Theatre at Epidavros in the Peloponnese
There is much more to Epidavros than the theatre, which wasn’t built purely for aesthetic reasons or to show drama. The site was dedicated to the God of Healing, Asklepios, the son of Apollo. He learned his healing skills from the centaur, Charon, and he was so gifted at healing that he is said to have had the power to bring people back from the dead. However, he was himself killed by a thunderbolt from Zeus, the King of the Gods, as he feared that Asklepios was becoming too powerful.
There was a temple dedicated to Asklepios at Epidavros and it contained a statue of the God made from gold and ivory. Little of the temple is visible today but there are ongoing excavations here and Epidavros may be revealed as a much more important site than we already know it to be.
Ancient Site of Epidavros in the Peloponnese
Epidavros Museum
People brought their health problems to Epidavros, where medical practitioners were based, and the museum on the site contains examples of the kinds of medical instruments used. Drama played a part as a kind of catharsis or purging in some of the healing processes recommended in those days.
The museum also contains records of cures alleged to have taken place here, as well as more conventional vases and statuary recovered during the excavation work.
Ancient Theatre at Epidavros in the Peloponnese
Around the Site of Epidavros
Spread around the site of Epidavros are also the remains of the guesthouses where visitors stayed, a bath-house, and a gymnasium, showing that physical exercise was as important in some cures back then as it is today. The Greeks were firm believers in having a healthy mind in a healthy body. This small nation gave the word not only the greatest philosophers and dramatists but also the Olympic Games and the father of medicine, Hippocrates, who was from the island of Kos.
Ancient Site of Epidavros in the Peloponnese
The Tholos
Another important building is the circular tholos, which was designed by the same architect who built the theatre, Polykleitos. Its purpose isn’t known for sure, though it might have been home to the sacred serpents which were used in some rites, or it may have been where the rites were carried out.
One theory is that it might have worked as a shock therapy for people who had mental illness. Patients were made to crawl through the concentric passages inside until they reached the central area and were in pitch blackness surrounded by snakes. It sounds guaranteed to produce a shock, if not a cure. It also sounds like a scene from Indiana Jones.
Ancient Theatre at Epidavros in the Peloponnese
The Stadium
Near the tholos and about 400 yards (365m) northwest of the theatre are the remains of the 5th-century BC stadium. Some of the seating and the starting and finishing lines for races can still be seen. It would have been used during the major festival in honour of Asklepios, which was held every four years.
Some Epidavros Fun Facts
The theatre’s main stage, or orchestra, had an altar at its centre.
The back row of seating is about 74 feet (23m) above the ground.
There are 36 sets of steps leading up from the ground to the back row of seats.
Behind the stage there was a reception hall, called a skene, which provided an additional performing space for the actors.
The See Greece guide to Mycenae in the Peloponnese, one of Greece’s top archaeological sites, famous for its royal tombs and Lion Gate.
Beehive Tomb at Mycenae in the Peloponnese
Without doubt, Mycenae (or Mykinai) is the most important historical site on the Peloponnese. The great palace of Mycenae was known as the House of Atreus after the ruler of that name. He was the son of Pelops, who gave his name to the Peloponnese (Peloponissos in Greek).
The ruined complex lies just over a mile (2km) outside the modern village of Mycenae, which straddles the main road between Athens and Nafplion, and the ancient site is clearly signposted.
The first thing you see as you approach, on your left, is the Treasury of Atreus. This beehive tomb is a really impressive structure, especially considering that it was built without a scrap of mortar. You then pass down a long corridor into the main tomb, where the acoustics are startling. Say something out loud to experience this for yourself. Take a look, too, at the hefty lintel over the entrance door, which is 26 feet (8m) long and weighs almost 120 tons.
The Lion Gate
The Curse on the House of Atreus
Greek dramatists tell the grisly story of the curse on the House of Atreus. Atreus’s wife, Aerope, was seduced by his brother, Thyestes. In revenge, Atreus murdered two of Thyestes’s sons, boiled them, and then served them to their father at a banquet. He then showed Thyestes the severed heads of his sons, to let him know what he had just eaten. From then on, Atreus and his descendants – who included Agamemnon, Menelaus, and Orestes – were cursed by the gods.
The Tomb of Agamemnon?
Golden mask of Agamemnon (allegedly) on display at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens and found at Mycenae in the Peloponnese
The Treasury at Mycenae is often referred to as the Tomb of Agamemnon, and although it was indeed a royal burial tomb, there is no evidence to support it being the tomb of Agamemnon. The spot that archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann believed to be the tomb of Agamemnon is at the main site, father along the road. The Treasury dates from the 14th century BC and so would have been used before the time of Agamemnon.
The Lion Gate
Treasury of Atreus at Mycenae in the Peloponnese
The first thing to strike visitors arriving at the main site is the famous Lion Gate, the carved lintel which straddles the entrance. Built in the 13th century BC, it is 12.5 feet (3.75m) wide at the base and almost 11 feet (3.5m) high. Note the grooves in the floor, which were made by chariots, and the holes for bolts at the side to keep the doorway firmly shut, when required.
The Royal Tombs
Gold finds from Mycenae on display at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens
When you pass through the gate, to your right are the circular remains of the royal tombs. In Grave Circle A, as it is known, six graves were discovered, containing a total of 19 bodies. This is where Schliemann found the spectacular golden burial mask which he believed was buried with King Agamemnon. In all, 30 pounds (14kg) of gold in the form of masks, jewelry, crowns, and other items were discovered here, and this treasure haul is one of the major attractions in the National Archaeological Museum in Athens.
The Rest of Mycenae
Mycenae in the Peloponnese
You need to use a certain amount of imagination, and have a map of the site, to make the most of a visit to the rest of Mycenae. There are plenty of foundations to see, and the picture which emerges is of a large royal palace, with huge walls, and an extensive community living just outside the walls and serving the royal court.
The walls themselves were up to 46 feet (14m) thick and were called the Cyclopean Walls, as people later could not understand how they had been built, if not by the one-eyed giants known as the Cyclops.
Destroyed by Fire
The royal palace was destroyed by fire in 1200 BC and the burn marks can still be seen on the foundations that remain. A century later, the site was abandoned and left to decay until its rediscovery by Heinrich Schliemann in 1874. As you wander around today, you can see the remnants of bedchambers, royal apartments, baths, a grand reception hall, and a throne room.
Cyclops
The huge, one-eyed Cyclopes are often maligned, especially due to Odysseus’s encounter with the hungry Polyphemus in The Odyssey, but they do have a presence in classical mythology. They play a pivotal role in Homer’s The Odyssey, and also appear in Hesiod’s Theogony. In the latter, the Cyclopes, banished to Tartarus, are said to have fashioned Zeus’s thunderbolts, Artemis’s bow, and Poseidon’s trident. They also made Perseus’s helmet of darkness.
It’s quite the resumé, but you have to ask how the idea of a race of one-eyed giants made it into the collective imagination. In 1914, palaeontologist Othenio Abel posited that the skulls of prehistoric elephants might have had something to do with it, as they appear to have only one eye socket, which is actually the nasal cavity.
Whether there’s any truth in that or not, the myth of the Cyclopes lives on, their name even being used to describe a medical condition: cyclopia is a congenital defect found in one out of every 16,000 live births, causing the unfortunate child to have only one eye.
