Angelokastro
Angelokastro is a 13th-century hilltop fortress with breath-taking views near Paleokastritsa on the Greek island of Corfu in the Ionian Islands.
Perched precariously on a 305-meter-high (1,001 feet) cliff on the northwestern tip of Corfu, Angelokastro—the “Castle of Angels”—stands as one of the most significant Byzantine fortresses in Greece. For centuries, it served as a silent sentinel, guarding the Ionian Sea and providing a literal and metaphorical “rock” for the people of Corfu. Today, its ruins offer some of the most dramatic panoramic views in the Mediterranean, but beneath the crumbling stones lies a history of defiance and strategic brilliance.
Angelokastro: A History of “The Impregnable”
The exact origins of Angelokastro are shrouded in the mists of the early Middle Ages. Archaeological evidence suggests that the site was inhabited as early as the 5th to 7th centuries AD, likely as a small lookout post or a rudimentary Christian settlement. However, the fortress we see today began to take shape in the 12th and 13th centuries.
The castle’s name is often attributed to Michael I Komnenos Doukas (known as Michael Angelos), the Despot of Epirus, who captured Corfu in 1214. His son, Michael II, is credited with further fortifying the peak to protect the island’s western frontier after the Byzantine Empire lost its territories in southern Italy.
By 1386, the fortress came under the control of the Republic of Venice. Recognizing its strategic value, the Venetians designated Angelokastro as the official capital of Corfu from 1387 until the 16th century. It became the seat of the Proweditore Generale del Levante, the commander of the Venetian fleet. Throughout this era, the castle was part of a “defensive triangle” with the castles of Kassiopi in the northeast and Gardiki in the south, ensuring no enemy ship could approach the island undetected.
The Ultimate Refuge: A Fortress That Never Fell
What makes Angelokastro truly legendary is its record in battle: it was never conquered. Despite its isolation, it weathered countless sieges by pirates, Genoese mercenaries, and the formidable Ottoman Empire.
During the Great Siege of 1537, an Ottoman force of 25,000 soldiers attempted to take the fortress. While much of the island suffered, the garrison at Angelokastro—led by a handful of local Corfiots and Venetian soldiers—successfully repulsed the invaders. Similar feats occurred in 1571 and during the second Great Siege in 1716.
The fortress was designed specifically to serve as a refuge for the local peasant population. When the signal fires from the peak warned of approaching sails, villagers from the surrounding olive groves would abandon their homes and scramble up the steep path, bringing their livestock and supplies with them.
- Ingenious Water Supply: To survive long sieges, the defenders relied on three massive underground cisterns carved into the rock. These tanks collected rainwater, ensuring the population wouldn’t be forced to surrender by thirst.
- Churches in the Clouds: Within the walls, the spiritual needs of the refugees were met by the Church of the Archangel Michael, built atop the ruins of an Early Christian basilica. There is also a unique chapel dedicated to Agia Kyriaki, built directly into a cave, which still houses 18th-century frescoes.
- The Hermit’s Caves: Beyond the military barracks, the site contains small cells carved into the cliffside, used by monks who sought solitude while performing the duty of watching the horizon for enemy sails.
How to Get to Angelokastro: Routes and Distances
Angelokastro is located near the village of Krini. The final approach involves a narrow, winding road that is not for the faint of heart, but the reward is incomparable.
How to Get to Angelokastro: Routes and Distances
1. From Paleokastritsa (The Scenic Shortcut)
If you are staying in the popular resort of Paleokastritsa, Angelokastro is almost literally “above” you, though the road takes a circuitous route to reach the summit.
- Distance: Approximately 9.2 km (5.7 miles).
- Driving Time: Roughly 15–20 minutes.
- Route: Drive inland from the bay toward the main road (GR-24) and follow the signs for Lakones and Krini. You will climb through the famous “Bella Vista” viewpoints, which offer a bird’s-eye view of the heart-shaped bays of Paleokastritsa. Once you pass through the narrow streets of Krini, the road leads directly to a small parking area at the foot of the castle.
2. From Corfu Town (The Cross-Island Trek)
Traveling from Corfu Town takes you across the lush center of the island, transitioning from the Venetian urban architecture to the rugged limestone cliffs of the west.
- Distance: Approximately 28 km (17.4 miles).
- Driving Time: Roughly 45–55 minutes.
- Route: Take the main road westward toward Paleokastritsa. Before reaching the coast, look for the right-hand turn toward Lakones or Makrades. This route will take you through the traditional “handicraft” villages of the hills before arriving at Krini.
Pro Tip: The road between Lakones and Krini is exceptionally narrow—often only wide enough for one car. If you encounter a bus or a local truck, you may need to reverse into a “pocket” or pull-off area. Driving during the early morning or late afternoon is recommended to avoid heavy traffic and the midday heat.
Tips for Visiting Angelokastro
The climb from the parking lot to the citadel takes about 10 to 15 minutes on a steep, stone-stepped path. It is essential to wear sturdy shoes, as the stones are worn smooth and can be slippery even in dry weather. It isn’t easy for anyone with mobility problems.
- Entrance Fee: Typically just a few euros.
- The View: From the summit, you can see the entire bay of Paleokastritsa, the Diapontia Islands to the north, and on clear days, the mountains of the Greek mainland and the coast of Albania.
- Photography: The best light for photography is in the late afternoon, as the sun begins to dip toward the Ionian Sea, illuminating the fortress walls in a golden hue.
As the sun sets over the Ionian, casting long shadows across the ancient battlements, it is easy to see why the Byzantines believed this place was protected by angels. It remains a testament to Corfiot resilience—a jagged crown on an emerald island that refused to bow to empires.
Best Corfu Guides
RECENT POSTS
