The See Greece guide to the ancient archaeological site of Tiryns, near Mycenae, in the Peloponnese of Greece, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Where is Tiryns?
From Athens to Tiryns Map (c) Google Maps
Tiryns is about 20 kms (12 miles) south of Mycenae, and 5 kms (3.1 miles) north of Nafplion in the Peloponnese of Greece. If you’re based in Nafplion it’s easy to combine visits to the two sites in one day, or if you’re driving from Athens to Nafplion and make an early start you can also visit both sites on your journey.
Tiryns is about a 90-minute drive from Athens, or about two hours from Athens International Airport. There is some accommodation near Tiryns but our advice would be to stay in Nafplion and make the 5-minute drive to Tiryns.
Ancient Tiryns on the Peloponnese in Greece
Why Is Tiryns Famous?
The site is mainly famous for its impressive fortifications, which date back to the Bronze Age, and for being one of the main centers of the Mycenaean civilisation.
How Old is Tiryns?
The earliest evidence of settlement in Tiryns dates back to the Neolithic period, around 4000 BC. However, it was during the Bronze Age that the site became an important center of Mycenaean culture, which flourished in Greece between 1600 and 1100 BC.
Mycenean Civilisation
The Mycenaean civilisation is known for its monumental architecture, including large palaces, tombs, and fortifications. Tiryns is particularly famous for its fortifications, which were built in several phases between the 15th and the 13th centuries BC. The walls of Tiryns are among the most impressive and well-preserved examples of Mycenaean military architecture.
Tiryns Fortifications
The first fortifications at Tiryns were built around 1500 BC, during the Middle Helladic period. These walls were made of stone and mud-brick, and they encircled the hill on which the palace and other buildings were located. However, these walls were not very strong and were replaced by new, more massive walls around 1400 BC.
Ancient Tiryns on the Peloponnese in Greece
The Walls of Tiryns
The new walls were built of huge limestone blocks, some of which weigh over 10 tons. These blocks were carefully fitted together without mortar, using a technique called “Cyclopean masonry,” which is named after the mythical race of giants who were said to have built the walls. The walls were up to 7 meters (23 feet) thick and over 10 meters (33 feet) high, with towers and bastions at strategic points.
The construction of such massive walls required a large workforce and a high degree of organization. It’s believed that the Mycenaean rulers of Tiryns controlled a large territory and had access to a substantial labor force, including slaves and prisoners of war.
The Palace of Tiryns
The Palace of Tiryns was located within the walls and was the residence of the Mycenaean rulers. The palace was a complex of buildings, including a central hall, private rooms, and storage areas. The central hall was the most impressive part of the palace and was used for public ceremonies, feasts, and other important events. The hall had a large hearth in the center and was decorated with frescoes and other artworks.
Tiryns was an important center of Mycenaean culture and played a role in the wider Mediterranean world. The Mycenaeans were skilled traders and sailors and maintained contacts with other civilisations, such as the Minoans on the island of Crete and the Egyptians.
Tiryns and the Trojan War
Tiryns was also involved in the Trojan War, which is described in Homer’s Iliad. According to the legend, the Mycenaean king Agamemnon gathered a large army at Tiryns and sailed to Troy to recover his wife, who had been kidnapped by the Trojan prince Paris.
Rediscovery of Tiryns
In the centuries that followed, Tiryns declined in importance and was eventually abandoned. The site was rediscovered in the 19th century by German archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann, who also excavated the nearby site of Mycenae. It’s now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Corinth has four aspects to it, which are the Corinth canal, the modern town of Corinth, nearby Ancient Corinth, and above that Akrokorinthos or Upper Corinth.
Ancient Corinth in the Peloponnese
The Corinth Canal
The Corinth (Korinthos) Canal is one of the great sights of Greece. With luck, you might be there when a ship is being steered between the narrow, sheer walls which stretch away in the distance to link the Gulf of Corinth with the Aegean Sea. The only way to see it – apart from taking a boat through it – is to take the main road from Athens onto the Peloponnese, which crosses over the canal. You can park and get out to have a lovely view down the canal, an engineering marvel which effectively turned the Peloponnese into a giant island.
The Corinth Canal in the Peloponnese
Roman Emperor Nero (37-68 AD) first mooted the idea of cutting a canal through the isthmus so that ships could sail from Italy into the Aegean without going all the way round the Peloponnese. He performed the first symbolic excavation in person, using a silver shovel, but the task was never completed. Ships continued to sail up the Gulf of Corinth, unload their cargoes, , and have them carried the 3.5 miles (6 km) to a ship waiting on the far side rather than risk losing the cargo on the sometimes stormy circuit around the Peloponnese.
It wasn’t until 1893, after a total of 12 years work, that the 75-foot (23-metre) Corinth Canal was finally cut through, enabling boats to sail directly to Piraeus. The canal is still used, though less so these days as it isn’t large enough to take the latest super-tankers.
Modern Corinth
A few miles beyond the canal (if coming from Athens) is the modern town of Corinth, which detains few visitors except maybe as a refueling stop. It’s mainly an agricultural service town, and it’s interesting to know that it’s the centre of the Greek currant industry: the word ‘currant’ actually derives from the name Corinth. There are hotels and restaurants if you need to spend the night, but the charms of Nafplion are little more than an hour’s drive away, so head there for the evening.
Ancient Corinth
Ancient Corinth in the Peloponnese
Beyond the modern town, the site of Ancient Corinth is to the south of the main road. Regular buses from modern Corinth also take visitors to and from the site. The site really comes to life as you walk around the well-preserved remains which are dominated by a Temple of Apollo from the 5th century BC. With its massive Doric columns, this is one of the buildings that the Romans left when they redeveloped the city as their provincial capital in 44BC.
The city was once home to 300,000 citizens and 460,000 more who were slaves – a total population bigger than modern-day Denver, Boston, or Washington DC. The smallest buildings are the ones that speak of the history: the remnants of shops, houses, and administrative buildings. The Peirine Fountain was a gift from Herodes Atticus, the wealthy Athenian, patron and friend of the Romans, and the spring beneath it still provides the water supply for the modern town of Corinth.
Ancient Corinth in the Peloponnese
The Archaeological Museum on the site has a good display of remains found there. Some lovely mosaics, mostly dating from the second-century AD Roman period, are a good indication of the city’s wealth at that time. Domestic vases, pottery, and jewelry all give the collection a more human scale.
Upper Corinth
Overlooking the lower city from the hilltop 2.5 miles (4 km) away was Akrokorinthos, or Upper Corinth. To get here you’ll need a car or take a taxi from Corinth, and though it’s a bit steep you can hike it or bike it too. Akrokorinthos’s walls and spectacular views are the chief reasons to visit.
When you see the position the city commands, you realise its strategic importance and why it was refortified by every subsequent wave of invaders, including the Venetians, the Franks, and the Turks. The walls run for 1.25 miles (2 km) around the 60-acre (24-hectare) site, where you can find the remains of chapels, mosques, houses, fortifications, and the still-working Turkish Fountain of Hatzi Mustafa.
This walk in Old Corfu Town, or Campiello, takes you from the Liston through the narrow back streets and alleyways and should take about one to two hours.
The Rooftops of Corfu’s Old Town
One of the highlights of a visit to Corfu Town, the capital of Corfu, is a walk through the atmospheric streets of the old town, known as the Campiello, with its narrow alleyways, tall shuttered buildings, ornate balconies and steep stairways.
A Walk in Old Corfu Town
Start at The Liston
The Liston in Corfu Town at Night
To begin this walk in Old Corfu Town start at the southern end of the Liston and walk west down Voulgareos Street. If it’s hot or wet, walk beneath the shopping arcades – they were built for protection from the weather. Silversmiths have traded along this street since Venetian times, and there are many jewellery stores.
Town Hall Square
Take the first left, just before the flags which mark the entrance to the Town Hall. This leads into Town Hall Square, also known as Plateía Demarchíou or M Theotoki Square. On the left is the Catholic cathedral. Paved terraces adorned with gardens and a fountain rise up the steps to the former archbishop’s palace, which now houses the Bank of Greece.
Iroon Square
Leave the square on the other side of the Town Hall, cross over Voulgareos Street, and continue straight ahead on M Theotoki Street. Pass little Pinia Square with its replica Venetian well, and turn right on N Theotoki Street which leads to Iroon Square. The yellow church on the east side of the square is the Faneromenis Church, built in 1689. Its ornate interior is decorated with gilded wood and icons by Cretan painters.
Paper Money Museum
Opposite is the Ionian Bank, home of the Paper Money Museum. On the square’s south side is St John the Baptist church, Corfu’s former cathedral built in 1520. In the middle of the square is a statue of the politician G. Theotoki. You will have gathered by now that the Theotoki family was an important Corfu dynasty, with numerous streets named after different members.
Church of St Spyridon
Tower of the Church of St Spyridon
Exit the square along the narrow street behind the statue to the left, and go up the steps and into the church of St Spyridon. Leave through the opposite door and turn left down Spyridon Street. At the end, turn left on Filarmonikis Street.
Evangelistrias Square
Cross N Theotoki and take the narrow street between the cigarette and grocery shops. Bear left and return to Pinia square. Turn right at the far end down Vrahlioti Street. It leads to tiny Evangelistrias Square, overlooked by a crumbling bell tower, all that remains of the 16th-century church of Evangelistrias.
Palaiologou Street
Cross over the square and continue down Voulgareos again. Take the first right on Palaiologou Street, signposted to Spilia and the Jewish Community. Bear left after the flower bed, beside the little bakery, Rosy’s. This narrow street is lined with interesting shops and small cafés.
Walking Tip
It is almost inevitable that you will get lost in the confusing warren of streets in the Old Town. Accept it as part of the experience. A compass would really help, as you are not always walking in the direction you might think you are. If confused, simply stop and ask a shopkeeper.
Solomou Street
Just before the end, turn left on Solomou Street. On your right along here is a small square covered in café tables. At the far end is a moving monument to the 2000 Jews of Corfu who perished in Nazi concentration camps in 1944. Solomou Street continues uphill past a pink church to the entrance to the New Fortress.
To the Cathedral
Walk back down Solomou to the end, where you turn left and immediately right down a tiny alley, Prosalendiou. Take the first right onto Alipiou, and bear right past the palm tree, walking uphill. Take the second left, at the top, onto Ag. Theodoras (unmarked), which leads to the top of the Cathedral steps.
The Venetian Well
Sign for the Venetian Well in Corfu’s Old Town
Continue on Ag. Theodoras, past the front of the cathedral and swerving around the cafe tables of a small square. The second left, Komninon Street, takes you under a huge arch and up a flight of steps to Kremasti Square. Here you’ll find the delightful Venetian Well, and the restaurant named after it.
Back to the Liston
Beyond the well, take the first right turn back down to Ag. Theodoras, cross over and continue down Ag. Nikolaou. Ahead you can just see the top of the spire for St. Spyridon’s. When you reach a small square, turn right and immediately left down towards Dousmani. When you reach the shops at the T-junction, turn right and go down the steps. At the bottom bear right down the shopping street and take the first left into Spyridon Street. This leads you back to Kapodistriou Street, where you turn right to return to the start of the walk.
See Greece suggests the ten best things to do on Poros, from museums and monasteries to beaches and cookery classes.
Poros
Nestled between the Peloponnese and the Aegean Sea, Poros is a small but fascinating island that offers a rich array of experiences. Whether you’re a history buff, beach lover, foodie, or adventurer, Poros has something to offer.
The Best Things to Do on Poros
🏛 Explore Poros Town (Chora)
Poros Town
Poros Town is the beating heart of the island. Built amphitheatrically on a hillside, it’s a maze of narrow alleys, whitewashed houses with terracotta roofs, and vibrant bougainvillea. The waterfront promenade is lined with cafés, tavernas, and shops, perfect for people-watching or sipping ouzo as yachts bob in the harbor.
Don’t miss the Clock Tower, perched on the highest point of town. It offers panoramic views of the sea and the Peloponnese coast.
Wander through the backstreets to discover artisan shops and hidden tavernas.
🏖 Swim at Love Bay
Love Bay is one of Poros’s most iconic beaches. Surrounded by pine trees that nearly touch the turquoise water, it’s a romantic and serene spot ideal for swimming and sunbathing.
The beach is small but organized, with sunbeds and a beach bar.
The pine-scented air and calm waters make it a favorite for couples and families alike.
Visit the Temple of Poseidon
High on a hill in the northern part of the island lie the ruins of the Temple of Poseidon, dating back to the 6th century BC. Though only fragments remain, the site is steeped in myth and history.
Ancient Greeks believed Poseidon ruled the seas from here.
The location offers sweeping views and a peaceful atmosphere for reflection.
Map (c) Google Maps
🏺 Discover the Archaeological Museum of Poros
Located in Poros Town, this museum houses artifacts from the Temple of Poseidon and nearby regions like Troezen and Methana.
Exhibits span from the Mycenaean to Roman periods.
Highlights include votive offerings, pottery, and a clay figurine of a horseman from 1300 BC.
🌲 Walk Through the Lemon Forest (Lemonodasos)
Just across the narrow strait in Galatas lies the Lemonodasos, or Lemon Forest—a lush grove of lemon trees interspersed with streams and old watermills.
A short boat ride or drive gets you there.
Ideal for a tranquil walk, especially in spring when the blossoms perfume the air.
Poros Lighthouse
🏄 Try Water Sports at Askeli Beach
Askeli is the longest beach on Poros and a hub for water sports. Whether you’re into kayaking, paddleboarding, or wakeboarding, this is the place to get your adrenaline fix.
The beach is well-organized with restaurants and bars.
The nearby hills offer hiking trails with stunning views.
🕍 Visit the Monastery of Zoodochos Pigi
Founded in 1720, this monastery sits on a pine-covered slope east of Askeli Beach. Legend has it that its spring cured the Metropolitan of Athens of kidney stones.
The church features 17th- and 18th-century religious art.
It’s a peaceful retreat with spiritual and historical significance.
🍽 Eat Fresh Seafood at a Waterfront Taverna
Fresh Fish at the Taverna Apagio on Poros
Poros is a paradise for seafood lovers. Local fishermen supply daily catches to tavernas that serve grilled octopus, fried calamari, and fresh fish.
Try Taverna Apagio, a family-run spot near the new port known for its authentic dishes.
Pair your meal with local wine and enjoy the sunset over the harbor.
⛵ Take a Day Cruise Around the Saronic Islands
Poros is perfectly positioned for island-hopping. Join a day cruise to nearby islands like Hydra and Aegina, each with its own character and charm.
Cruises often include swimming stops and onboard meals.
It’s a great way to see more of the Saronic Gulf without packing your bags.
Join a Traditional Greek Cooking Class
Greek Cooking Course on Poros
Located near Askeli Beach, this hands-on workshop lets you prepare traditional dishes like kleftiko, gyros, and souvlaki meze in a relaxed, friendly setting. After cooking, you’ll enjoy your creations at Odyssey’s Corner Bistro, surrounded by herbs, flowers, and Greek music under the stars
Sirene Blue Hotel on Poros
🌅 Bonus Tips for Visiting Poros
Best Time to Visit: Late spring and early autumn offer pleasant weather and fewer crowds.
Getting There: Poros is just an hour from Athens by fast ferry from Piraeus, making it one of the most accessible Greek islands.
Stay Options: From cliffside resorts like Sirene Blue to charming town hotels like Anemone, there’s accommodation for every taste.
See Greece picks the best time to visit Hydra with a month-by-month breakdown of the weather, hotel prices & any special events to add to the holiday fun.
Hydra at Night
Hydra, one of the Saronic Gulf Islands, is a timeless destination that blends natural beauty, rich history, and a charming car-free atmosphere. Whether you’re a solo traveler seeking serenity, a couple chasing romance, or a family looking for a cultural escape, Hydra offers something for everyone.
But when is the best time to visit? That depends on your priorities—weather, crowds, hotel prices, and events all play a role. So let’s dive into Hydra’s climate and then explore each month in detail to help you plan the perfect trip.
Hydra, with the Peloponnese in the Background
🌤Hydra’s Climate: Mediterranean Magic
Hydra enjoys a classic Mediterranean climate:
Hot, dry summers with long sunny days
Mild, wetter winters with occasional chilly nights
Low annual rainfall (~14.8 inches / 375 mm)
Rare snowfall, usually in January or February
The island’s weather is ideal for outdoor activities from spring through autumn, while winter offers a quieter, more introspective experience.
Events: New Year’s celebrations are low-key; many businesses are closed
Hotel Prices: Lowest of the year; ideal for budget travelers
January is Hydra at its quietest. With high humidity and frequent rain, it’s not beach weather—but it’s perfect for peaceful walks, cosy tavernas, and introspection.
Events: Greek Independence Day (March 25) with parades and celebrations
Hotel Prices: Still affordable, but rising slightly
March is a transitional month. The weather improves, and the island begins to stir from its winter slumber. Independence Day celebrations add a festive touch.
Events: Orthodox Easter (date varies); a deeply cultural and spiritual experience
Hotel Prices: Moderate; book early for Easter
April is a wonderful time to visit. The island blooms, and Easter brings candlelit processions and feasts. It’s a great mix of mild weather and cultural immersion.
Events: Hydra’s Miaoulia Festival preparations begin
Hotel Prices: Rising with demand; still reasonable
May is arguably one of the best months to visit Hydra. Warm days, blooming landscapes, and fewer crowds make it ideal for hiking, swimming, and sightseeing.
Events: Miaoulia Festival (late June) with fireworks, concerts, and naval reenactments
Hotel Prices: High during the festival; book early
June is peak season kickoff. The Miaoulia Festival honours local hero Admiral Miaoulis and is a highlight of the year. Expect warm seas, lively nights, and packed hotels.
Events: Feast of the Dormition (August 15); religious and cultural events
Hotel Prices: Peak season; most expensive month
August is Hydra’s busiest month. The weather is scorching, the sea is warm, and the island is alive with visitors. Book well in advance and prepare for crowds.
Hotel Prices: Moderate; many businesses begin to close
October is Hydra’s autumnal retreat. The weather is still pleasant, and the island takes on a quieter charm. Great for cultural travelers and photographers.
November is cool and damp, but peaceful. Ideal for writers, artists, and anyone seeking solitude. Many hotels and restaurants are closed, so plan ahead.
Events: Christmas and New Year’s Eve; quiet celebrations
Hotel Prices: Lowest of the year
December is Hydra’s hibernation mode. While not festive in a commercial sense, it offers a tranquil escape for those who enjoy winter walks and quiet evenings.
Hydra Graffiti
Final Tips for Travelers
Book early for June–August, especially during festivals
Pack layers in spring and autumn; winters are damp
Check ferry schedules, especially in off-season
Explore beyond Hydra Town—hiking trails and hidden beaches await
Hydra is a destination that rewards thoughtful timing. Whether you crave sun-soaked beaches, cultural immersion, or peaceful solitude, there’s a perfect month waiting for you.
The See Greece guide on what to do on Hydra with kids, including the best beaches, where to stay and kid-friendly dining.
Public Transport on Hydra
Hydra with Kids: Family-Friendly Activities & Tips for a Memorable Island Escape
Hydra, one of the Saronic Gulf Islands of Greece, is a car-free haven that offers a peaceful yet adventurous escape for families. With its charming harbor, gentle beaches, and walkable cobblestone streets, Hydra is a dream destination for parents seeking a blend of relaxation and exploration with their children.
Hydra is 65-140 minutes by ferry from Athens Map (c) Google Maps
Whether you’re traveling with toddlers or teens, this guide will help you uncover the best family-friendly activities and practical tips to make your Hydra holiday unforgettable.
🚶 Why Hydra Is Perfect for Families
Public Transport on Hydra
One of Hydra’s most unique features is its absence of cars. Transportation is limited to donkeys, water taxis, and your own two feet. This makes the island exceptionally safe for children to roam without the usual traffic worries. The laid-back pace, friendly locals, and compact size of the island mean less stress and more quality time together.
🏖 Best Beaches for Kids
Hydra’s beaches are mostly pebbled, but they’re clean, calm, and ideal for family fun. Here are the top picks:
Vlychos Beach
Just a 20-minute walk or short water taxi ride from Hydra Town.
Shallow waters and gentle waves make it perfect for younger kids.
A beachfront taverna offers snacks and shade.
Kamini Beach
Located in the quiet fishing village of Kamini.
Small, peaceful, and great for a picnic.
Ideal for toddlers thanks to its calm waters and easy access.
Mandraki Beach
One of the few sandy beaches on Hydra.
Offers sunbeds, umbrellas, and water sports for older kids.
Easily accessible by water taxi.
Tip: Bring water shoes for the kids—most beaches are pebbly and can be tough on little feet.
🐴 Donkey Rides & Local Transport
Kids Can Take a Donkey Ride on Hydra
Donkeys are a beloved symbol of Hydra and a fun way for kids to experience local culture. While they’re traditionally used for transporting goods, short rides around town are available and safe for children.
Donkey stations are located near the harbor.
Always check with the handler for age and weight limits.
A short ride through Hydra’s alleys can be a highlight for younger kids.
For longer distances, water taxis are a scenic and exciting alternative. Kids love the boat ride, and it’s a quick way to reach beaches or nearby villages.
Hydra Harbour
🏛 Cultural Activities for Curious Minds
Hydra isn’t just about beaches—it’s steeped in history and art, which can be surprisingly engaging for children.
Historical Archives Museum of Hydra
Offers interactive exhibits and maritime history.
Great for older kids interested in Greek independence and naval heritage.
Kountouriotis Mansion
A preserved 18th-century home with period furniture and artifacts.
Gives kids a glimpse into Hydra’s aristocratic past.
Art Galleries
Hydra has a thriving art scene, with galleries like the DESTE Foundation hosting contemporary exhibitions.
Some galleries offer family-friendly events or workshops during summer.
Hydra at Night
🍽 Kid-Friendly Dining
Greek cuisine is naturally kid-friendly—think grilled meats, fresh bread, and lots of cheese. Hydra’s tavernas are welcoming to families and often offer high chairs and children’s portions.
Recommended Spots:
Techne Restaurant & Social – Stylish yet relaxed, with a kids’ menu and sea views.
Taverna Gitoniko – Traditional Greek dishes in a cosy courtyard.
To Pefkaki – Near Vlychos Beach, perfect for a post-swim meal.
Tip: Try local specialties like souvlaki, spanakopita, and loukoumades (Greek doughnuts)—they’re usually a hit with kids.
🛏 Where to Stay with Kids on Hydra
Hydra offers a range of accommodations, from boutique hotels to family-run guesthouses. Look for places with:
Spacious rooms or suites
Kitchenettes for easy meal prep
Proximity to the harbor or beaches
Family-Friendly Options:
Hotel Angelica – Centrally located with family rooms and a garden.
Hydra Icons – Stylish apartments with kitchen facilities.
Four Seasons Hydra – Located near Plakes Beach, ideal for families seeking tranquility.
Hydra
🎨 Fun & Creative Activities
Hydra’s artistic vibe can inspire creativity in kids. Here are a few ideas to keep them engaged:
Sketch the harbor: Provide a small sketchbook and let them draw the boats and donkeys.
Shell collecting: While Hydra’s beaches aren’t sandy, kids can still find interesting pebbles and shells.
Photo scavenger hunt: Create a list of things to spot—like a blue door, a cat, or a church bell.
Practical Tips for Parents
To make your Hydra trip smooth and stress-free, keep these tips in mind:
Pack light but smart: Strollers can be tricky on cobblestones—opt for a baby carrier or lightweight travel stroller.
Hydration is key: The island gets hot in summer, so carry reusable water bottles.
Sun protection: Hats, sunscreen, and UV-protective swimwear are essential.
Cash is handy: While most places accept cards, small shops and donkey rides may prefer cash.
Book early: Hydra is popular in summer—secure your accommodation and ferry tickets in advance.
🌅 Making Memories That Last
Hydra’s charm lies in its simplicity. Without cars, theme parks, or loud nightlife, families can reconnect over slow walks, shared meals, and quiet beach days. Whether it’s watching the sunset from the harbor or laughing over a donkey ride, Hydra offers the kind of moments that stick with you long after the holiday ends.
📌 Final Thoughts on Hydra for Kids
Hydra may not have the flashy attractions of larger Greek islands, but that’s exactly what makes it perfect for families. It’s safe, scenic, and packed with opportunities for meaningful experiences. From beach days to cultural discoveries, Hydra invites you to slow down and savor the joy of traveling with your kids.
Wild Abandon by Jennifer Barclay and published by Bradt Guides is A Journey to Deserted Places of the Dodecanese islands in Greece, including Rhodes and Kos.
Wild Abandon by Jennifer Barclay
Bradt Guides publishes excellent guidebooks. However, they also publish some entertaining and usually very different travel narrative books, and Wild Abandon by Jennifer Barclay is one of those.
Jennifer Barclay
Jennifer Barclay is the perfect author for a book like this, as she has made her home on Tilos in the Dodecanese, has lived in Athens, and has travelled widely throughout the Greek islands. She’s also an adventurous traveller and a lover of deserted places, and has written several other books about Greece including Taverna by the Sea, Falling in Honey and An Octopus in my Ouzo.
Jennifer Barclay and her dog Lisa
In Wild Abandon she decides to focus not on the main sites in the Dodecanese, like the Old Town of Rhodes, but visits places few visitors are likely to discover for themselves. Some require some energetic trekking and camping out, and for most of the trips she’s accompanied only by her faithful dog, Lisa. On others, where Lisa has to be left behind for one reason or another, the author travels with an un-named friend.
The Dodecanese
Astypalea
In all she visits eleven of the islands in the group, and as I’ve visited seven of them myself it was a fascinating read… making me now want to visit the four I’ve not been to so far. She includes the main islands, known for their busy tourist areas, like Rhodes and Kos, but you’ll see sides of these islands you probably didn’t know existed. Each island gets a chapter to itself, and the others are: Tilos, Nisyros, Kalymnos, Astypalea, Kastellorizo, Karpathos, Kasos, Chalki, and Arki.
Tilos
Abandoned village on the Greek Island of Tilos
The book starts and ends on Tilos, where the author lives and which naturally she knows intimately. Here, among many places, she talks about the Harkadio Cave, which she can see across the valley from her office desk and is ‘where the last elephants in Europe died four thousand years ago.’ Elephants in Europe only four thousand years ago? This is the kind of entertaining and unexpected fact the author loves to dig out and entertain the reader with.
Nisyros
Nisyros
On Nisyros she uncovers the Pantelidis Baths, a grand therapeutic spa built in 1910, once visited by thousands coming in shiploads but now lying in ruins. Who knew this was on Nisyros? Certainly not me. The Nisyros chapter is typical of the author’s detailed and descriptive writing.
‘As I stand outside the taverna to get a signal on my phone, I watch a little black cat sitting in a hole in the wall. Lisa sees it and growls, and it jumps away. Yiannis, appearing from the kitchen, points to the hole. “Put your hand inside.” I feel warm steam. It’s a geothermal apiria, or blowhole of the volcano.’
Kos
Kos
I realise as I read through Wild Abandon that I could quote from every chapter to give a feel for the book, for the contents and the author’s style. Here, from the chapter on Kos, called ‘Faith in Water’, she discovers the village of Pyli, where not all the houses are inhabited:
‘Others are obviously long abandoned, broken glass in the windows and rubbish in the garden. I tread carefully through tall grass to peek through an open window. There are black-and-white photographs on the mildewed wall. An old black travelling trunk sits open with a New York address painted by hand on the side.’
Don’t you immediately want to know about the trunk, the photographs and the New York address?
Kalymnos
‘Even in August, it felt excitingly wild and empty. The land was dramatic, fearsome even, with craggy grey cliffs, rust-streaked, dropping down steep inclines almost five hundred metres to the sea. Waves surged relentlessly from the northwest into the narrow inlet where aquamarine water almost glowed. I saw a diver in a wetsuit swimming close to the black rocks, then I watched it moving and realised it was a seal.’
Every chapter has gems of lovely, lyrical writing in it, along with detailed descriptions that make you feel you’re standing there alongside the author seeing what she’s seeing.
Kalymnos
Advice
One piece of advice – if you’re reading the book then have this website open alongside you:
The author has put it together to enhance the book, and it’s full of her colour photographs of the islands covered. You can see some of them on this page. Unfortunately I only looked it up after finishing the book and it’s clear that lots of the photos are of places referred to in the text. It will bring the book even more to life if you can see the photos at the same time.
If you’re planning a trip to any of the islands covered in the book, buy a copy of Wild Abandon to sit alongside a conventional guidebook. If you like reading good travel books about Greece, or about anywhere for that matter, then put Wild Abandon on the shopping list or in your Amazon basket. It’s excellent. Or, as Victoria Hislop said: “A vivid and intoxicating account of these beautiful islands”.
A Thing of Beauty by Peter Fiennes describes ‘Travels in Mythical and Modern Greece’ and places the Greek Gods in the context of modern-day Greece.
A Thing of Beauty by Peter Fiennes
Here at See Greece we’re suckers, of course, for travel books about Greece. Our shelves are sagging with them. They include classics like Patrick Leigh Fermor, Lawrence Durrell, and Henry Miller, to more recent must-read titles like Eurydice Street and Wild Abandon. To this list can be added A Thing of Beauty by Peter Fiennes, an evocative and informative book whose sub-title sums it up: Travels in Mythical and Modern Greece.
You would therefore expect his new book about Greece to shine when it comes to the nature writing, and it certainly does, though that is only one part of its multi-faceted appeal. It’s for anyone interested in the Greek Gods and their myths, the Greek countryside and wildlife, Greek politics and history, climate change and sustainable living, whether there’s any hope in the world today… and how many Greek salads can one man eat? If you’re interested in more than one of those topics, it’s definitely the book for you.
Travels in Greece
It’s the theme of the Greek myths which holds the book together, though, as the author travels around the country visiting the places where some of the more famous myths are said to have occurred.
Beginning in Athens and ending in Epirus, via a drive around the Peloponnese, the author retells those myths as well as talking to present-day Greeks – some in pre-arranged meetings and others by chance – and asking everyone the question he’s most curious about: is there hope? It’s a serious question although the book itself is far from sombre, as the author has a light touch and is very funny in places.
Lord Byron
In fact the book begins not in Athens but in Nottinghamshire in England. At Newstead Abbey, to be exact, the ancestral home of George Gordon Byron, 6th Baron Byron, better-known to the world as Lord Byron, poet and Grecophile. The author’s travel plans were scuppered, or at least delayed, by the outbreak of Covid, so he takes the chance to go and see Lord Byron’s home.
And it’s thanks to this that we get a hugely entertaining chapter about Byron and his family, filled with salacious details, leading up to his love affair with Greece. Well, he’d had every other kind of love affair, why not with an entire country?
And while Covid is initially an impediment, it turns out to add what was probably an unexpected dimension to the book. After all, it’s not in the least bit far-fetched to look upon the pandemic as a curse brought down on mankind by the Gods above, Greek or otherwise. This is another theme the author skilfully weaves into the tapestry of his story.
On the Road in Greece
Renting a car, and leaving his wife and son behind after a few family days, the author drives around Greece visiting such places as Eleusis, Corinth, Mycenae, Epidavros, Olympia, Delphi (where he encounters an online Oracle), Messolonghi (where Byron, or at least a bit of him, is buried), and ultimately to the wilds of Epirus, a majestic landscape threatened by voracious oil developers and by fracking.
Lost and Found
While dealing with the immortal (well, some of them) and almighty Gods, the author proves himself to be all-too-human, and very self-deprecating with it. He manages to get lost while hiking, stumbling across German nudists on a beach, and when he has treated himself to a decent hotel for the all-important visit to Delphi, he ends up in the worst room in the building, with the smell of tobacco and the sound of conversation – which is seldom whispered in Greece – both wafting in from a ventilation shaft of some kind.
Epirus
For me the book builds to the best part, towards the end, where the author visits Epirus. Here he meets up with an ornithologist contact, Julian Hoffman, who lives in Prespa, and we’re treated to sightings that show just how rich parts of Greece are in birds and other flora and fauna. Even the ornithologist is impressed by what they see in the Ambracian Gulf, a stone’s throw, literally, from the airport at Preveza which brings holidaymakers in by the charter-flight planeload throughout a normal summer.
In this section I learned where I’m definitely going to eat if I ever find myself in Mitikas, just outside Preveza: the Doctor of Hunger steakhouse, it has to be. It’s also in Epirus, at the Monastery of Rodia, that the author and his ornithologist companion meet an eccentric elderly Greek man named Costas, who for some reason seems to be gathering cyclamen. As they’re about to leave, Costas hands them a bunch of cyclamen and tells them with great feeling: ‘Remember what men are here for. It is to share stories about the things that matter.’
It’s a wonderful summing-up of what’s important in life, and Peter Fiennes should be proud of himself that in his book he has done just that. He’s shared stories about things that matter.
A Rope of Vines by Brenda Chamberlain is an evocative memoir of the author’s time living on the Greek island of Hydra in the early 1960s.
A Rope of Vines by Brenda Chamberlain
A Rope of Vines begins with the kind of opening sentence that compels you to read on:
I have returned to the good mothers of Efpraxia while my friend Leonidas serves sentence for manslaughter of an English tourist in the port of Ydra.
Ydra is an alternative spelling for Hydra, of course, and Efpraxia is a convent on the island, where the author stays for a part of the time during the six years that she lives on Hydra. She returns to the story of Leonidas later in the memoir, naturally, and we learn what exactly happened down in the port.
A Rope of Vines: The Author
Brenda Chamberlain (1912-71) was a Welsh writer and artist who moved to Hydra in the Saronic Gulf Islands, not far from Athens, in 1961, having previously lived on the Welsh island of Bardsey for 15 years, an experience she also wrote about. She returned to Wales in 1967 and died in Bangor, where she had been born, only four years later. She wrote fiction, prose and poetry, and her paintings are on display in several collections in Wales, and in London.
A Rope of Vines: The Book
A Rope of Vines by Brenda Chamberlain
A Rope of Vines was first published in 1965, when the author was still living on Hydra, and republished in 2009 by the Library of Wales, which holds her papers. It’s a fairly short book of less than 150 pages, which also include many of the author’s line drawings of Hydra, mostly of buildings but a few including people too.
It may be a short book but it is also very intense. There are vibrant scenes of people, incidents, wildlife, scenery, and especially the weather, and its intense heat. Hydra is a bare and rocky island, where cacti grow, and it’s ironic that its name is the Greek word for ‘water’, yet it has to bring in most of its water by boat.
Life on Hydra
A Rope of Vines gives you very much a behind-the-scenes look at life on Hydra. The author lives in a house high up above and away from the port, which even then bustles with life and visitors. She dislikes the port and all its transient activity, and the Hydra described in these pages is the Hydra of ordinary people. They’re the people who live simple lives, with hand-to-mouth existences, some with emotional and physical problems. It’s a day-to-day existence which is captured, warts and all, in the pages of A Rope of Vines.
The title, incidentally, comes from the way fishermen used to tie their boats up with a rope made from twisted vines, before proper ropes and metal ties became widely available. It’s the way she sees herself tied to the island.
Leonard Cohen on Hydra
Don’t turn to this book, as I did, if you expect to read at least a little something about one of Hydra’s most famous residents in the early 1960s, Leonard Cohen. His life on the island overlaps with that of Brenda Chamberlain, though the bohemian art scene of which he was a part gets no mention in the book. It’s not that his life there was secretive. While living there he published his poetry collection Flowers for Hitler (1964), as well as his novels The Favourite Game (1963) and Beautiful Losers (1966).
Indeed, TripAdvisor has a long thread about how to find Leonard Cohen’s house on Hydra. As both were writers and artists, and foreigners on Hydra, it’s unlikely they wouldn’t at least have known of each other’s existence. But Chamberlain’s writing is more inward-looking. As artist Shani Rhys-James points out in her introduction to the Library of Wales edition, she makes a hike and camps out overnight on a pilgrimage with an English family, yet we learn nothing at all about the family, though the descriptions of the hike, the landscape, the wildlife and the experience are brought vividly to life.
It has to be said that this won’t be a book for everyone. The style can be florid and very intensely personal, and sometimes the stories can be vague and mysterious. We never do find out, for example, the nature of her relationship with Leonidas. Were they friends or lovers? The reader will never know.
Buying A Rope of Vines
The book is well worth buying, for anyone who wants to learn a little more about Greek family life, and what goes on away from the tourist zones.
If you have any interest in Hydra, you’ll want to read it as the author does visit a lot of the island, going on hikes and describing the flora and fauna beautifully. Her artist’s eye and her poet’s use of language make this an exceptional and unusual book about Greece.
Greek retsina is a dry white wine made and drunk all over Greece with a distinctive pine and resin flavour that people usually either love or hate.
Retsina Bottles
For us, when we visit Greece, our first meal is very often kalamari (squid) and a bottle of retsina, perhaps preceded by an ouzo. It’s the very taste of Greece on a plate and in a glass. It tells us we’re back in our beloved Greece at last. If retsina is an acquired taste, then we acquired it long ago.
What is Greek Retsina?
Retsina is a dry white wine that has been in contact with pine resin to give it its unique flavour. The flavour of retsina is hard to describe, though once you taste it you never forget it. People who don’t like it compare it to turpentine, which we obviously think is unfair. Perhaps they’ve just had some bad retsinas, for as with any wine the quality varies.
Greek Retsina
It’s crisp, a little lemony, and even though it’s dry there can be a touch of sweetness to it. The overpowering taste is of course the pine resin, however. Imagine walking through a pine forest on a hot summer day and being able to capture that aroma in a bottle. To us, that is the essence of retsina.
Which Greek Retsina to Choose?
Of course there is more than one type of retsina and flavors vary, depending on the process. One name you see throughout the country is Kourtaki, though there are other best-selling brands including Malamatina and Ampelicious.
Kourtaki Greek Retsina
Many of the bigger and better winemakers like Gai’a started including a retsina in their line-ups, after a surge in its popularity a few years ago. If you find a bottle of Ritinitis Nobilis from Gai’a on offer anywhere, do try it. These quality retsinas tend to be lighter than the more commercial brands, concentrating more on the wine, and on the citrus taste rather than on being too resiny.
What we like to do is ask if the taverna or restaurant has any local retsinas, so we can try some we’re unlikely to find anywhere else. You don’t usually get draft retsina in the way you get house wines, made by the taverna-owner, as unless you know what you’re doing it’s easy to ruin a good wine by adding too much resin flavour to it.
Cheap Greek Retsina
Retsina traditionally comes in a 50cl bottle with a screwtop cap on it, though some of the more upscale brands use a conventional 70cl bottle with a cork or plastic stopper. It’s one of the cheapest bottled Greek wines that there is, so it’s very popular with students and those on a budget. Some people like to mix it with soft drinks to make a kind of retsina spritzer, and to make the retsina last longer. You can also mix it with colas, if you like, though we prefer our retsinas straight.
Greek Retsina Wine Bottle
For a long time it was seen as the poor man’s drink, which is one reason it’d had such a poor reputation in the past, but with the 21st-century renaissance in Greek winemaking, people have come to realise that retsina can be made well.
Retsina Rosé
The vast majority of the retsina made in Greece is white, but there are a few rosé retsinas around. They’re not common so you should definitely snap one up if you see it.
Which Grape is Retsina Made From?
Most retsina is made from the savatiano grape, which is the country’s most widely-planted grape. It is drought-resistant, which helps see it through the hot Greek summers, and it makes pretty reliable if not very exciting wine – though it can make good wine, if the winemaker is prepared to put more work in.
Retsina Bottle
Two other Greek grape varieties, the assyrtiko and the rhoditis, are often blended with savatiano, or sometimes used on their own, to produce yet another retsina variation. On the island of Rhodes, the most common grape is the athiri, so you’ll get a slightly different retsina flavour yet again.
On Lemnos, the only white grape grown is the muscat of Alexandria, so it’s used for retsina as well as regular wine. As the grape is normally used for dessert wines because of its aromatic nature, you’ll find retsinas from Lemnos to be more aromatic too.
What to Eat with Greek Retsina?
Glasses of Greek Retsina
Retsina goes well with a large number of dishes. Fresh seafood is an obvious choice, though it will also pair well with meats such as roast chicken and roast lamb, because of the way Greeks like to use a lot of herbs and garlic to add flavour to their roast meat dishes. It goes well with dolmades (stuffed vine leaves) and other Greek starters, like fried sardines and anchovies, or even saganaki (fried cheese)
The History of Greek Retsina
So why do the Greeks like wine with a resin taste to it? The tradition goes back over 2,000 years when Greeks stored wine in clay vessels called amphorae, which you can see in almost every archaeological museum in the country. In order to keep them air-tight and keep the wine fresh for longer, Aleppo pine resin plugs were used as they were found to be very effective at keeping the air out.
A Simple Way of Enjoying Greek Retsina
The resin flavour penetrated the wine on sea voyages, and the Greek sailors found they developed a liking for the taste. It’s thought that the first resinated wines were made in about the 2nd century BC. Even when, probably in the first century AD, the Romans invented the wooden barrel with a wooden bung that proved ideal for storing and transporting wine, the Greeks continued using the resin to flavour their wine because by then they liked it so much.
Today the resin is added during the fermentation period of the grapes. And just as barrels have been around since the Romans, so too has retsina – and we’ll drink to that. Yia Mas!
UNESCO made Thessaloniki a City of Gastronomy, under its Creative Cities network, the only city in Greece to be acknowledged for its unique food and drink.
Modiano Market Thessaloniki
Thessaloniki is the second-largest city in Greece and the capital of Macedonia. In November 2021 it also became the first city in Greece to be declared a City of Gastronomy by UNESCO.
Creative Cities
As well as designating certain significant places as World Heritage Sites, UNESCO (The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) also has a series of Creative Cities. These are cities which are considered exceptional in one of seven creative fields, such as music, literature, crafts and folk art, film… and gastronomy.
At the time of writing there are only thirteen Cities of Gastronomy in the world, including Parma in Italy, Tucson and San Antonio in the USA, Rouen in France… and now Thessaloniki in Greece. Thessaloniki also has fifteen UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and was already referred to as Greece’s unofficial culinary capital.
Thessaloniki: City of Gastronomy
So why has UNESCO made Thessaloniki the first City of Gastronomy in Greece? One reason is that Thessaloniki has long been at a crossroads of cultures. It was, for example, the second most important city of both the Byzantine and Ottoman vast empires. It also offered a safe haven to Sephardic Jews fleeing the Spanish Inquisition, which led to Thessaloniki at one time having Europe’s biggest Jewish community.
Thessaloniki is 500 km (311 miles) from Athens, but only 600 km (373 miles) from Istanbul, 300 km (186 miles) from Sofia in Bulgaria, and 240 km (149 miles) from Skopje in the Republic of North Macedonia. Its food and drink combines elements of native Greek cooking, Middle Eastern cuisine, and influences from various southern European nations.
Thessaloniki Market
Thessaloniki Street Food
Like all gastronomical centers, it isn’t only because of haute cuisine. Good food cities are also noted for good street food. In Thessaloniki this would include local specialities like koulouri (similar to bagels and topped with sesame seeds), or trigonaPanoramatos. These are decadent cream-filled pastries with various possible toppings and are hyper-local, as they come specifically from the Thessaloniki suburb of Panorama.
Or try bougatsa for breakfast, which can be savoury or sweet depending on your taste or mood – it’s basically a filo pastry pie that can be filled with feta or some other cheese, or with a sweet custard cream. Another local specialty is soutzoukakia. These are meatballs but more Middle Eastern than Italian, with spices like cumin and cinnamon adding a spiciness to the mix.
Thessaloniki Cuisine
Thessaloniki may not have the several Michelin-starred restaurants that Athens has, including the acclaimed two-star Spondi, but it can more than hold its own when it comes to classy, contemporary, gourmet cuisine. Likewise, its cocktail scene is a thriving one, and there has been a renaissance in the Ladadika quarter, where down-at-heel shops have been converted into restaurants and bars, both smart and casual.
The city’s historic Modiano Market is also getting a makeover, and while it won’t lose its traditional butchers and fishmongers, it’s being modernised and will add live music, food festivals and other events to bring it bouncing into the 21st century. This is where you’ll find all the best produce from the whole of Macedonia, one of Greece’s main food-producing regions. Look for deliciously sweet Florina red peppers, juicy Naoussa peaches, and olives from Halkidiki, showing that Kalamata isn’t the only place you can grow the best olives.
Thessaloniki Wine
In the last few years Greece has emerged as a leading wine destination, after previously being known for cheap table wines and the Greek speciality, retsina, which we love but not everyone develops a taste for. If you head southwest from Thessaloniki towards Athens, you’ll pass by some of the best wine-growing areas on the mainland.
Don’t let the fact that many Greek grape varieties are not known outside Greece and have strange names like malagousia and assyrtiko. Any decent wine waiter will be able to tell you which one tastes like a chardonnay or which like a cabernet sauvignon, so that you have a reference point. Don’t miss the unique opportunity to try good Greek wines that you won’t find elsewhere, some not even outside of Thessaloniki.
The churches of Thessaloniki are remarkable and include UNESCO World Heritage Monuments, Byzantine masterpieces, and a church dating from the 5th century.
Church of Panagia Dexia in Thessaloniki
It would be possible to spend an entire day visiting the churches of Thessaloniki and still not see them all. There are churches large and small, churches old and churches comparatively new, and seeing them is to take a walk through the history of Thessaloniki.
The churches in Thessaloniki are so remarkable that UNESCO declared its Byzantine churches to be World Heritage Monuments in 1988.
So here is a list of the most notable churches in Thessaloniki, in alphabetical order, and a little about each of them.
St Catherine’s Church is near the junction of Olympiados with Lampousiadou in Ano Poli, or the Upper City. It dates from the 14th century and has some original murals. These were covered in plaster when the Turks turned it into a mosque but were uncovered again during the 1947-51 restoration of the church.
Agia Sophia was built in the middle of the 7th century and was a copy of Agia Sofia in Istanbul. It’s considered one of the most important churches in the Greek Orthodox religion, and parts of it date from a previous church that was built here in the 5th-6th centuries. It also has remarkable murals which date from the 8th-11th centuries. It was turned into a mosque in 1523 but returned to Christian worship in 1912.
Agios Dimitrios
Church of Agios Dimitrios in Thessaloniki
This huge edifice is the most famous Byzantine church in the city. St Dimitrios is Thessaloniki’s patron saint and his church was built in the 7th century on the ruins of a 5th-century basilica. It was destroyed by a fire in 1917 but restored and re-opened in 1948. Some mosaics survive from the 5th and 6th centuries, and don’t miss a visit to the crypt, which was where St Dimitrios was martyred in the early 4th century.
Agios Gregorios Palamas
The Holy Metropolitan Church of Agios Gregorios Palamas, which is near the Museum for the Macedonian Struggle, was built in 1914 in Byzantine style. The original 8th-century church on this site was destroyed in a fire in 1890.
Agios Minas
Located at Ionos Dragoumi 10, just off Tsimiski, the original church on this site was built in the 8th century, though the present building dates from 1890. It was one of the few churches in Thessaloniki which was not turned into a mosque by the Turks but remained a place of Christian worship.
You’ll find this church on Apostolou Pavlou, near the junction with Koronis. It was built in the early 14th century and many fine original murals can still be seen. It’s considered one of the best-preserved churches in Thessaloniki, and is also worth visiting for the lovely grounds.
This church is on the eastern side of Iasonidou, north of the junction with Egnatia. It is thought to date from the late 13th or early 14th centuries, and some of its original murals can still be seen.
At the western end of Olympou stands one of the oldest churches in the city. It was built in 1310-14 and was originally part of a monastery, of which very little survives. During Turkish rule it was converted into a mosque, a minaret was added, and some of the original murals and mosaics were covered in plaster.
At Agias Sofias 56, north of its junction with Egnatia, this imposing building is on the site of what were the Roman public baths, and the first church was founded here in the 5th century AD. There are mosaics which date back to the 5th century as well as some 13th-century murals.
Osios David
Mosaic of an Unshaven Christ at the Church of Osios David in Thessaloniki
It is worth making the climb to the upper part of the city just to see this church. It is tiny but wonderfully atmospheric, and dates from the 5th or 6th century. Some original mosaics remain along with others from the 12th-14th centuries, including a rare depiction of Christ without a beard. You also get good city views from here.
Close to Hosios David is the only active Byzantine monastery in Thessaloniki. It was built in the 14th century and some of those original murals remain. Good city views, too.
The Church of Panagia Chalkeon is on Chalkeon at its junction with Egnatia and is impossible to miss with a small park in front of it. It was built in 1128 on a site where a temple had previously been in the chalkos or coppersmiths’ district. In 1430 during the Turkish occupation it was turned into a mosque.
Profitis Ilias
The church of the Prophet Elijah was built from the late 13th to the mid-14th centuries. It’s on Olympiados in the Upper City, near the junction with Varvaki and is an impressive sight with its many arches and domes. Some of the original murals can still be seen.
See Greece picks the best time to visit Thessaloniki, with a monthly summary of the weather, plus hotel prices and special events to help plan a visit.
Statue of Alexander the Great on the Thessaloniki Waterfront
When you first consider the idea of jetting off to Greece, you may think of islands like Mykonos or Santorini. However Greece’s second city, Thessaloniki, with its vibrant city life, wonderful food and drink, rich history, and stunning seaside scenic views, is a destination that shouldn’t be overlooked.
When planning your trip, it’s crucial to consider the Thessaloniki weather and Thessaloniki climate as they play a significant role, alongside events and hotel pricing, in shaping the experience. What then, is the best time to visit Thessaloniki?
Person on a Bike in Thessaloniki
Best Time to Visit Thessaloniki: Month-by-Month
January, as the first month of the year, has weather that is undeniably crisp. With average high temperatures sinking to 50°F (10°C), and lows dropping below 32°F (0°C), it’s the coldest month. Rainfall is at its peak, averaging around 1.7 inches (44 mm), but snow is rare. It’s a quiet time for the city, with fewer tourists. As a result, hotel prices are likely to be at their lowest.
As winter eases into February, the temperatures begin to rise slightly to an average of 52°F (11°C). Rainfall decreases slightly but hovers around 1.5 inches (40mm). If you appreciate quieter trips and avoiding crowds, now is a good time to visit, since hotels prices remain reduced due to the off-peak season.
The first whispers of spring are heard in March, with average highs reaching 57°F (14°C). Rainfall remains steady at around 1.3 inches (34mm). The International Documentary Festival, one of Europe’s major documentary festivals, usually takes place this month, which can be of interest to film buffs. Hotel prices are typically still more affordable.
Thessaloniki Waterfront
As we move into April, the Thessaloniki weather becomes more enjoyable with highs of 67°F (19°C). Rainfall continues to decrease, with averages of just 1 inch (26mm). Around mid-April, the blossoming flowers create a gorgeous landscape during Easter, a major event that’s celebrated with processions and feasts. Accommodation becomes slightly more expensive towards the end of April, but still reasonable.
In May, summer is on the horizon with average highs soaring to 77°F (25°C). Rainfall keeps reducing, reaching approximately 0.8 inches (20mm). The Thessaloniki State Symphony Orchestra hosts an open-air concert during this month. Hotel prices begin to rise as the city gears up for the high tourism season.
June marks the start of summer with temperatures reaching up to 86°F (30°C). Rainfall is minimal at around 0.5 inches (13mm), a favorable Thessaloniki climate for beach lovers. With the Street Mode Festival creating a lively atmosphere, hotel prices steadily increase, reflecting high season rates.
Thessaloniki Waterfront at Sunset
July is the heart of summer with clear sunny weather and averages hitting 91°F (33°C). Rain is nearly non-existent at just 0.4 inches (11mm). It’s an ideal time for outdoor activities and with the Dimitria Festival, a celebration of culture and arts, it justifies the peak season hotel costs.
August maintains the hot and dry climate with temperatures averaging 91°F (33°C). Rainfall is the lowest across the year, at about 0.3 inches (8mm). Visitor numbers increase significantly and this peak season brings hotel prices to their highest.
September brings slightly cooler weather, still warm at 82°F (28°C) on average, and minimal rainfall of 0.5 inches (12mm). It’s the perfect time for the Reworks International Music Festival and Thessaloniki’s Urban Picnic, two events with music, food, and fun. The city also continues to buzz with Thessaloniki’s International Fair. Hotel prices gradually start to lower as the high season comes to a close.
Reflections in the water at night in Thessaloniki
In October, autumn takes hold with temperatures dropping to a pleasant 70°F (21°C). Rainfall begins to increase, at 1.4 inches (36mm). Notably, the Thessaloniki International Film Festival takes place either this month or in November, attracting film enthusiasts globally. Hotel rates are more affordable, making it one of the best times to visit Thessaloniki.
November sees a further dip in temperature, averaging 59°F (15°C), and an increase in rainfall to 1.7 inches (43mm). It’s a quiet month with reduced tourist activity. Hotel prices are notably low during this period.
December rounds off the year with temperatures at an average high of 52°F (11°C) and low around 37°F (3°C). Rainfall is relatively high at 1.9 inches (49mm). Although snow is rare, Christmas markets light up the city, making for a festive mood. Lower hotel prices are an added advantage for those who don’t mind the colder weather.
Panoramic View of Thessaloniki
Best Time to Visit Thessaloniki: Summary
In conclusion, the best time to visit Thessaloniki depends on what you value most. Sun lovers will adore the summer months with their lively festivals, albeit at higher hotel prices.
If you prefer cooler weather and fewer crowds with affordable accommodation, late autumn and winter are perfect.
But for those seeking a pleasant combination of temperature, events, and pricing, May, June, and October provide the best balance. Happy travels and enjoy your time exploring the beautiful city of Thessaloniki!
The best day trips from Thessaloniki include visits to Mount Athos and Mount Olympus, and to archaeological sites such as Dion, Pella, and Vergina.
Monastery of St. Panteleimon on Mount Athos in Greece
This is our alphabetical list of the best day trips from Thessaloniki, including the distance from the city and the best ways to get there.
Best Day Trips from Thessaloniki
Dion
Dion Thermal Baths
The site of Ancient Dion and the modern town of Dion are just over an hour’s drive southwest from Thessaloniki, along the A1/E75 road towards Athens. You should allow a full day for this as the site is fascinating and there’s also an archaeological museum in the town, a two-minute drive or five-minute walk away. As well as beautiful mosaics, statues and other remains the lush site is a haven for wildlife. See our full page about Dion for more information.
Halkidiki
Halkidiki
The three-pronged peninsula of Halkidiki, or Chalkidiki, is about an hour’s drive southeast from Thessaloniki, depending of course on where you’re going as it covers an area of 2,918 sq km (1,127 sq mi) in total. Take the road out towards the airport and basically you keep going. The two western-most peninsulas, Kassandra and Sithonia, are filled with holiday resorts and are great places to escape to if you want to chill out on the beach. See our separate Halkidiki page for more information. The third peninsula is Mount Athos, the so-called Monks’ Republic. See below.
Lake Volvi
Drive an hour due east of Thessaloniki and you reach Lake Volvi, one of several lakes that are easily accessible from the city. The quickest route is to first drive north out of the city on the E02 road which then swings west towards Kavala. You’ll first pass the Limni Koronia (Lake Koronia) before reaching Lake Volvi.
We recommend this as it’s the second-largest lake in Greece at 12 miles (19 km) long and 6-8 miles (9.7-12.9 km) wide. It’s a wetlands area that is good for birdwatching, or you can also enjoy watersports here. Head to the village of Volvi on the northern shore to wander round and have lunch overlooking the lake for a full day out.
Mount Athos
Simonopetra Monastery on Mount Athos
Mount Athos is the eastern-most of the three peninsulas making up the southern part of Halkidiki, and you cannot visit this without prior permission. Women are not allowed to visit at all. However, there are some very enjoyable boat trips that take you around Mount Athos and enable you to see some of the twenty inhabited monasteries that look spectacular. See our Mount Athos page, and the page all about Mount Athos boat trips.
Mount Olympus
Mount Olympus in Macedonia
To see Mount Olympus, legendary home of the Greek Gods and the highest mountain in Greece (2,917m/9,570ft), take the A1 towards Athens and you’ll reach the little town of Litochoro, the main base for visiting the mountain, in just over an hour. This is where you can find out about hiking options, which obviously depend on how much time you have and how fit you are. Getting to the top is a two-day effort with one night in a mountain hut, so is not for the inexperienced. See our full page on Mount Olympus.
Pella
Archaeological Site of Pella in Macedonia
Ancient Pella is a 40-minute drive northwest of the city, along the main E02 road that goes to Edessa. It was a hugely important city that was made capital of the Macedonian state in the late 5th century BC. It was the birthplace of Alexander the Great. There’s one main archaeological site to the south of the modern town, with other remains around the town, and an archaeological museum in the town. Allow the best part of a day, including travel time. To learn more, see our full page all about Pella.
Petralona Cave
The Petralona Cave is an hour’s drive southeast from Thessaloniki in the northern part of the Halkidiki (or Chalkidiki) peninsula. Follow the signs for the Makedonia Airport but then continue on the main road past the airport. The cave was discovered by accident in 1959 and extends for about 1,500m (4,921ft), of which you can see about 400m (1,312ft).
In 1960 the most significant find of the cave was made, the Petralona skull. This has been dated to 150,000-200,000 years old, though it could be a great deal older. Whichever it is, the cave is still one of the oldest archaeological sites in the whole of Europe. For more information visit the Petralona Cave website.
Pikrolimni
Pikrolimni is a lake that’s a 45-minute drive northwest of Thessaloniki, leaving the city along Monastiriou and after about 15-20 minutes look for the sign marking a right turn towards Kilkis. The lake covers an area of 450 hectares (1,112 acres) and is filled with salts that are believed to have healing and cosmetic properties with a concentration three times that of the Dead Sea in Isarel/Jordan.
As a result, there is a Mud Therapy Centre here, though the therapies are only available in the summer. There’s also a hotel, a bar, and a restaurant. It’s not a day out for everyone, but certainly is if you love your spa therapies.
Vergina
Royal Tombs at Vergina
The ancient site and royal tombs of Vergina are about an hour’s drive west of Athens initially on the A1 road towards Athens then turning off onto the A2/E90 exit towards Kozani and Veria. Just before Veria you exit onto the road for Kouloura which takes you to Vergina. We recommend using satnav as last time we drove there it was not clearly signposted.
Vergina is a comparatively new site, only discovered in 1977. But what a discovery it was, by the archaeologist Professor Manolis Andronikos. What he found was the royal tomb of King Philip II of Macedon, father of Alexander the Great. The tomb contained the king’s intact skeleton. There are other tombs here too, and the site has been turned into a marvellous museum.
Veroia
Veroia is about a 15-minute drive from Vergina, retracing your steps back to the A2 road and continuing on it. It’s a historic town and worth a visit if you have the time. It’s an easy lunch stop before or after seeing the tombs, and has some 50 Byzantine churches to seek out.
Messolonghi (or Missolonghi) is a town in Western Greece which played a big role in the Greek War of Independence and is where the British poet Lord Byron died.
Messolonghi
Where is Messolonghi?
Messolonghi is on the northern shores of the Gulf of Patras and about a 45-minute drive from the city of Patras. It’s a 3-hour drive west from Athens, along the shores of the Gulf of Patras, and a 2-hour drive from Delphi. It’s also about two hours south of the airport at Preveza.
Map Showing Location of Missolonghi in Western Greece Map (c) Google Maps
What to Do and See in Messolonghi
There isn’t a great deal to see and do in Messolonghi, as it’s not really a tourist town, though if you’re passing through then you could easily spend a night and a day here, to see the handful of sights. It also has a lovely setting, by the water and surrounded by lagoons.
This grandly-titled museum is in a mansion dating from 1931 and contains many artifacts from the Greek War of Independence along with paintings, coins, guns, and medals. There’s also a collection of items that belonged to Lord Byron, as well as some of his manuscripts.
This is Messolonghi’s Cultural and Arts Centre, and is much more comprehensive and modern than the history and art museum. It has traditional costumes, archaeological finds, icons and religious relics, a good collection of paintings and sculptures, and an unusual but interesting collection of salt shakers.
Modern Art Gallery
The Christos and Sophia Mosxandreou Gallery of Modern Art is in an 1835 Neo-classical building opposite the church of Agios Spuridonas. Its traditional exterior is in stark contrast to some of the ultra-modern art works inside.
Garden of Heroes
Next to the cemetery is where you’ll find the Garden of Heroes, dedicated to the men and women who fought in the Greek War of Independence. This is where you will find a statue of Lord Byron, beneath which his heart is buried.
Messolonghi
The Greek War of Independence
In May, 1821, Messolonghi became the first place in Western Greece to join in with support for the Greek War of Independence. There were many Turkish families living in the town and they quickly made their escape to the safety of the town of Vrachori, where there was a strong Turkish military presence. Vrachori is now known as Agrinio and is about a 40-minute drive due north of Messolonghi.
In October, 1822, about 7-8,000 Turkish forces laid siege to Messolonghi, in an attempt to retake control. There were only about 500 Greek soldiers inside the town, but they held out until the Turkish troops gave up on 31 December, 1822. Another attack was launched in September, 1823, but this was abandoned within two months.
A third siege began in April, 1825, and it showed the strategic importance of Messolonghi as this time it involved 30,000 Turkish soldiers, later joined by another 10,000 troops from Egypt. The 10,500 inhabitants held out for 12 months, but this time the Turkish and Egyptian troops did not abandon the siege. Instead, they slaughtered the population as the people tried to escape. Messolonghi was later given the name of Hiera Polis (Sacred City) by Greeks recognizing their heroism and sacrifice in the Greek cause. Greece won its independence in 1829.
Messolonghi Sunset
Lord Byron and Messolonghi
The British poet Lord Byron had been a regular visitor to Greece and loved the country so much that he signed up to support their fight for independence. He was in Messolonghi in 1824, planning to join in an attack on the Turkish-held fortress of Lepanto. Before that could happen, he fell ill and contracted a fever, which led to his death on 19 April, 1824. His heart is buried in the town in a cenotaph, and there is also a statue of him there. All over Greece you will find streets named in his honour.
See Greece explains the long history of the Greek dish of dolmades, or stuffed vine leaves, which goes back to ancient Greece, and provides a recipe.
Dolmades
Dolmades, a popular Greek dish, have a surprisingly rich history that dates back to ancient times. These stuffed grape leaves, known as “dolmades” in Greek, are part of a broader family of dishes referred to as “dolma” or “dolmeh” in various Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisines. Here’s a brief history of dolmades.
Dolmades with Beans
History of Dolmades
Ancient Roots: The concept of stuffing grape leaves and other vegetables can be traced back to the ancient Middle East, particularly in regions like Persia and the Levant. The technique of using vine leaves as wrappers became popular due to their abundance.
Greek Influence: Dolmades are a significant part of Greek cuisine. The Greek version of dolmades often features a filling of rice, herbs, and sometimes ground meat, although vegetarian versions are common. These delicious morsels have been enjoyed for centuries in Greece.
Ottoman Influence: During the Ottoman Empire’s rule over Greece, culinary exchanges occurred, leading to the incorporation of ingredients like rice and various spices into the dish. This Ottoman influence can be seen in many Greek dishes, including dolmades.
Variations: While the basic idea of dolmades involves grape leaves stuffed with a flavorful filling, there are numerous regional and personal variations. Some may use minced meat, while others prefer a vegetarian filling. The filling can include rice, herbs, onions, and spices, resulting in a delightful mix of flavors.
Grape Leaves to Make Dolmades
Recipe for Greek Dolmades:
Here’s a classic recipe for Greek Dolmades:
Ingredients:
50-60 grape leaves, blanched and stems removed
1 cup of rice
1/2 cup of olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1/4 cup of fresh dill, chopped
1/4 cup of fresh mint, chopped
Juice of 2 lemons
Salt and pepper to taste
Instructions:
In a pot, heat half of the olive oil and sauté the chopped onion until translucent.
Add the rice and continue to cook for a few minutes, stirring.
Add the dill, mint, lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Mix well and let it cool.
Place a grape leaf flat on a work surface, shiny side down. Add a spoonful of the filling at the bottom of the leaf and fold the sides in, then roll it tightly into a small parcel.
Arrange the dolmades in a wide pan, seam side down. Drizzle with the remaining olive oil and add enough water to cover them.
Place a heavy plate or lid on top of the dolmades to prevent them from unraveling during cooking.
Simmer over low heat for about 45 minutes or until the rice is tender and the grape leaves are soft.
Let them cool, then serve with a squeeze of lemon juice.
Argos is one of the top archaeological sites in the Peloponnese, one of the oldest cities in Europe, and with museums and a theatre bigger than Epidavros.
Panoramic View of Argos from the Castle of Larissa
Argos’s claim to fame is that it is the oldest continuously-inhabited city in the whole of Europe, and one of the oldest in the world, with a history going back over 7,000 years. It has a lovely setting at the foot of Mount Chaon, and although it’s not really a major name on the tourist trail it has plenty to see and reward a day or two’s visit.
The History of Argos
During the Late Bronze Age (c. 1700–1100 BCE), Argos flourished as a Mycenaean settlement, though it was overshadowed by nearby Mycenae and Tiryns. The city was built around the hills of Aspis and Larissa, and archaeological finds—including tholos tombs—attest to its significance in this era.
In mythology, Argos was ruled by legendary figures such as Diomedes and was closely associated with Hera, who had a major sanctuary nearby. Homer’s Iliad celebrates Argive warriors among the Greek forces at Troy.
The Heraion Plain around Argos
Following the collapse of the Mycenaean civilization, Argos remained inhabited through the Greek Dark Ages and re-emerged as a dominant city-state in the Archaic period. Under King Pheidon in the 7th century BCE, Argos reached its zenith, pioneering military innovations and defeating Sparta at Hysiae in 669 BCE.
However, Sparta eventually eclipsed Argos, defeating it in 550 and 494 BCE. Argos allied with Athens during the Peloponnesian War but later shifted allegiances, joining Corinth and Thebes in various conflicts.
In the Hellenistic period, Argos became part of the Achaean League and remained influential until Roman times. The city prospered under Roman rule, with notable constructions like its grand theatre and baths.
Despite invasions and decline, Argos endured through Byzantine, Ottoman, and modern eras. Today, it stands as a vibrant town, rich in archaeological heritage and historical legacy, a living testament to Greece’s enduring past.
Argos Archaeological Sites
Ancient Theater at Argos in the Peloponnese
There is no one single archaeological site, but the various archaeological remains are spread throughout the modern city. This makes it unusual, seeing the different layers of life in different places as you move around town. Most archaeological sites in Greece are slightly away from the modern cities which grew up nearby, and everything is in the one place.
Other Argos Sites
Argos has some Roman baths, and a theater that is actually bigger than the more famous one at Epidavros, which is about a 40-minute drive to the east. It could seat up to 20,000 people. Looking at the ruins now it’s hard to imagine just what these theatres would have been like when operating. The orchestra stalls here could be flooded to enable naval battles to be acted out in front of the stage, with action going on behind. Quite a spectacle.
There’s also an acropolis, an ancient agora, and the very unusual Pyramid of Hellinikon. There are several of these in Greece, and although no-one knows for sure what they were used for, it’s thought they may have been inspired by the pyramids in Egypt.
Argos Museums
Argos Archaeological Museum
The Archaeological Museum of Argos is a treasure trove of ancient Greek history, housed in a unique architectural blend of neoclassical and modern styles. Located at the intersection of Vasilissis Olgas and Kallergis streets in Argos, the museum occupies the historic 1830 residence of General Dimitrios Kallergis, alongside a modern wing added in 1961 with support from the French Archaeological School.
Its collection spans from the Mid-Helladic period (c. 2000 BCE) to Late Antiquity (c. 600 CE), showcasing finds from major excavations at Aspida, Deirada, the ancient agora, the Roman theatre, and Lerna.
Highlights include:
A bronze cuirass and helmet from the 8th century BCE, discovered in the “Tomb of the Warrior”
A Proto-Argive crater depicting Odysseus blinding Polyphemus (670–650 BCE)
Minoan-style pottery and geometric-era ceramics, including pomegranate models symbolizing Hera
Roman mosaics in the courtyard, illustrating the twelve months and seasonal festivities
A Farnese-style statue of Heracles, a Roman copy of Lysippus’s original work
The museum also features the “Lerna Room,” dedicated to prehistoric finds from the nearby site of Lerna, including one of Europe’s oldest sculptural representations of the human form.
Argos Epigraphic Museum
The Epigraphic Museum in Argos on the Peloponnese
This new museum, opened in 2023, is a 2-minute walk east of the Archaeological Museum, and housed in the Kapodistrias Barracks, an impressive building worth seeing in itself. At first it might sound a little specialised, containing only tablets and stone inscriptions, but it reveals ancient life in and around Argos in fascinating detail. Some of the bronze tablets go back to the 4th century BC and are considered to be of international historic significance.
The See Greece guide to the top archaeological sites in the Peloponnese including Epidavros, Olympia, Mycenae, Mystras, Tiryns, and Argos.
Beehive Tomb at Mycenae in the Peloponnese
The Peloponnese has some of the best archaeological sites in Greece, so many that you would need to spend a few weeks there in order to visit them all. Mystras alone could easily take up a day of your time, so sprawling is the site and with a lot of climbing up and down.
Top Archaeological Sites in the Peloponnese
Argos
Ancient Theater at Argos in the Peloponnese
Argos’s claim to fame is that it is the oldest continuously-inhabited city in the whole of Europe, and one of the oldest in the world. It has a lovely setting at the foot of Mount Chaon, and although it’s not really a major name on the tourist trail it has plenty to see and reward a day or two’s visit.
There is no one single archaeological site, but the various archaeological remains are spread throughout the modern city. This makes it unusual, seeing the different layers of life in the same place. Most archaeological sites in Greece are slightly away from the modern cities which grew up nearby.
Argos has some Roman baths, and a theater that is actually bigger than the more famous one at Epidavros, which is about a 40-minute drive to the east. There’s also an acropolis, an ancient agora, and the very unusual Pyramid of Hellinikon. There are several of these in Greece, and although no-one knows for sure what they were used for, it’s thought they may have been inspired by the pyramids in Egypt. See our full page on Argos.
Bassae
The Temple of Apollo Epikourios at Bassae on the Peloponnese in Greece
Bassae is a remote site, set up high, just south of the lovely mountain village of Andritsaina, Andritsaina is well worth a stop, either for lunch or overnight, to get to Bassae early in the morning. The site is remarkable for the stunning 5th-century Temple of Apollo Epicurius (‘Apollo the helper’), which is so precious it has to be covered with a protective tent.
In 1986 Bassae was the first archaeological site in Greece to be placed on UNESCO’s World Heritage List. It was noted for the Bassae Frieze, which is now on display in the British Museum in London, and its remote location means that it has been spared the damage and destruction received by other monuments in major towns and cities. See our page on the Temple of Bassae.
Corinth
Ancient Corinth in the Peloponnese
There are actually two archaeological sites to see at Corinth. If you’re visiting the Peloponnese from Athens, Ancient Corinth might well be your first stop, once you’re over the Corinth Canal, and it has various parts to it which are in and around the modern town. These include a Roman amphitheatre and a cemetery, and it’s worth visiting the archaeological museum as at one time Ancient Corinth was one of the most important cities in Greece, with an estimated population of about 90,000 in 400 BC.
A 5-minute drive away in a spectacular hilltop location overlooking the modern town is the site of Acrocorinth (‘Upper Corinth’). This sprawls across the hilltop and with its own water supply this was an impressive fortress until the 19th century, though no-one knows for certain when it was founded. It goes back to Mycenean times at least. See our main Corinth page.
Epidavros
Ancient Theatre at Epidavros in the Peloponnese
Ancient Epidavros (or Epidaurus) is definitely a must-see archaeological site in the Peloponnese. It’s most famous for its remarkable theatre, which was built in the 4th century BC and the 14,000-seater is still in use today for the annual Athens and Epidavros Festival. However, there is much more to the site than this. It was used as a healing centre, as the whole site was dedicated to Asclepius, the God of Medicine.
The Sanctuary of Asclepius was founded in the 6th century BC and had many shrines and several hospitals. It’s about a 30-minute drive east of Nafplion, which makes a good base for seeing several of the top archaeological sites in the Peloponnese, including Argos, Mycenae and Tiryns, as well as Epidavros. See our Epidavros page for more details.
Isthmia
A 15-minute drive from Corinth, modern Isthmia straddles the Corinth Canal but archaeological remains including the Temple of Poseidon are in the Peloponnese on the western side of the canal. The temple, also known as the Temple of Isthmia, is thought to date from about the 7th century BC. Isthmia also has a bath house with well-preserved mosaic floors, and was the site of the Isthmian Games, and you can see the remains of several stadiums.
Messene
Ancient Messene, to give it its full name, is a 40-minute drive north of Kalamata in the southern Peloponnese. The site was only excavated in the 1980s and it is one of the most comprehensive archaeological sites in the Peloponnese, if not the whole of Greece. Here you can see temples, a stadium, a gymnasium, and a theatre that held 10,000 people, amongst other remains.
Mycenae
Mycenae in the Peloponnese
Mycenae is about a 30-minute drive north of Nafplion, and is probably the top archaeological site in the Peloponnese. It was so important that it gave its name to a whole period of Greek history. There’s evidence that this particular site was first occupied as early as 5000 BC, but by the 2nd millennium BC it was known as the City of Golf and housed the royal palace of the Trojan War hero, King Agamemnon.
Much of the site was excavated by the German archaeologist Howard Schliemann, and though he made some mistakes in his over-enthusiasm for what he was finding, we owe him a debt of gratitude for what he uncovered. See our separate Mycenae page for more details.
Mystras
Mystras in the Peloponnese
Mystras is one of the most remarkable places in Greece. It isn’t a conventional archaeological site but the remains of an entire town built on a hill, and which was inhabited till the 1830s. It is another of the must-see sites in the Peloponnese. A few nuns still live in one of the town’s convents, and in addition you can see churches, the remains of palaces, and the remains of the huge hilltop fortress. See more on our Mystras page.
Nemea
The Nemean Games
The site of Ancient Nemea is about a 30-minute drive southwest from Corinth, a 20-minute drive north of Mycenae, and just to the east of the modern town of Nemea. It makes this northeast corner of the Peloponnese rich in archaeological sites, with Tiryns, Argos and Epidavros all being fairly close by. The area around here has been inhabited since at least 6,000 BC, and by 573 BC this was the site of the Nemean Games. These were held every two years until 271 BC, after which they were moved to Argos, 25 km (16 miles) due south.
Olympia
Ancient Olympia on the Peloponnese in Greece
The archaeological site of Ancient Olympia, original home of the Olympic Games, is something not to be missed when visiting the Peloponnese. The games were first held here in 776 BC and continued to run every four years for over 1,000 years. It’s quite a thrill to walk out onto the original running track, and you can also see the archaeological equivalent of the Olympic Village. The nearby modern town of Olympia also has an archaeological museum and a museum devoted to the Olympic Games.
Sparta
Sanctuary of Menelaus at Sparta on the Peloponnese in Greece
Few places see their names enter the language, but the former city-state of Sparta is where we get the word ‘spartan’ from. They were a formidable military power, mainly responsible for Greece’s victory in the Greco-Persian Wars, and even defeated their rivals Athens in the Peloponnesian Wars. The site is just to the north of the modern city limits, with the ruins of a theatre, a temple, and other remains. See our full page on Sparta.
Tiryns
Ancient Tiryns on the Peloponnese in Greece
A 5-minute drive north from Nafplion, going towards Mycenae, brings you to another Peloponnesian archaeological site worth seeing. Tiryns was a hilltop fortress and has been inhabited for several thousand years before becoming a significant Mycenean city, to rival Mycenae itself. Today’s ruins can’t rival those at Mycenae, which is a 20-minute drive north, but they’re still worth seeing and became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. See our Tiryns page for more information.
See Greece picks the best time to visit Kos, with a monthly summary of the weather, plus hotel prices and special events to help plan a visit.
Kamari Bay on Kos in the Dodecanese
When considering the best time to visit Kos, you’ll want to take into account a variety of factors. Kos, one of Greece’s most popular Dodecanese islands, boasts a charming Mediterranean climate characterized by hot, dry summers and mild, wet winters.
The diversity of Kos’s climate ensures something for everyone across the year, whether you prefer sun-soaked beach vacations or cooler explorations of historical sites. But let’s delve into the specifics to provide you with the best suggestions.
Best Time to Visit Kos: Month-by-Month
January in Kos is a mild winter, often sunny but with the expected chill in the air. Average temperatures hover around 56°F (13°C) during the day, dropping to 47°F (8.5°C) at night. The rainfall is significant, around 5.6 inches (143 millimetres). Kos rarely gets snow. January is considered low season with fewer tourists, thus resulting in lower hotel prices.
When we move into February, the weather remains fairly similar to January. Average day temperatures sit comfortably at 57°F (14°C) and fall to 47°F (8.5°C) at night. Rainfall sees a slight decrease to around 4.3 inches (110 millimetres). Again, February is ideal for enjoying off-peak hotel pricing, as there are typically no major events happening.
March begins to show a few signs of the impending spring. Daytime average temperatures increase to around 61°F (16°C) and fall to 49°F (9.5°C) after sunset. Rainfall continues to drop as we see averages around 3.2 inches (80 millimetres). The island begins to come to life with the local Almond Blossom Festival, bringing an authentic Greek experience with lower hotel rates.
Kos Town in the Dodecanese
April truly welcomes the spring, with averages up to 66°F (19°C) during the day and 54°F (12°C) at night. Kos gets much drier in April, with only 1.6 inches (41 millimetres) of rain. Easter celebrations usually fall in April and dominate the island, with moderate hotel prices.
May starts the beginning of the peak season. Expect to find warmer average temperatures of around 76°F (24°C) in the day, cooling to 63°F (17°C) at night. The rainfall drops to a mere 0.8 inches (20 millimetres), and hotel prices start to climb. Many visitors time their holidays with the Kos Island Horse Races.
June delivers the full glory of the Mediterranean summer with highs of about 84°F (29°C), dipping to around 70°F (21°C) at night. There’s a minimal 0.2 inches (5 millimetres) rainfall. The Kos summer events start taking place, with hotel prices at their peak.
Kastri near Kos in the Dodecanese
Those unfazed by the heat may find July to be the best time to visit Kos. With temperatures hitting an average high of 88°F (31°C) and nights at 73°F (23°C), this is prime beach weather. Rain is virtually non-existent in July. Remember that hotel prices remain at the height of their range.
August keeps the July’s weather pattern stable, with hot days averaging about 88°F (31°C) and nights at 73°F (23°C). You can expect no significant rainfall in August. Kos’s annual Wine Festival attracts oenophiles this month. Keep in mind that hotel prices remain high.
September starts to mellow out the summer heat with daily averages down slightly to 82°F (28°C) and night temperatures around 68°F (20°C). Rainfall remains low at 0.3 inches (8 millimetres). Hotel prices start to reduce as the tourist crowd thins, making this a great time to experience the Olive Oil Festival celebrated in the local villages.
Kos Fisherman
October brings in the autumn weather. However, it’s still pretty warm, with average daily temperatures about 73°F (23°C) and nights cooling to 61°F (16°C). There’s a slight increase in rainfall to 1.9 inches (48 millimetres). Hotel prices continue to fall, making it an economical choice.
November experiences a further drop in temperatures with 66°F (19°C) during the day and 54°F (12°C) at night. Rainfall levels increase to 3.5 inches (90 millimetres). There are fewer crowds around this time, leading to even lower hotel prices. This is a quiet month, with no notable events.
December carries the tranquillity of November into the holiday season. Temperatures range from an average of 59°F (15°C) during the day to 50°F (10°C) at night. Rainfall peaks at around 5.9 inches (150 millimetres). Hotels offer competitive prices to make for a delightful and affordable holiday escape.
Best Time to Visit Kos
From our month-by-month breakdown, it’s clear that the best time to visit Kos is subjective and depends on what kind of holiday you’re after. For those who fancy the beach, consider the warm months of June through August.
However, if you prefer a cultural experience full of authentic Greek events, then visit during spring (March to May) or autumn (September to November). And, for the best deals at hotels, travelling during the winter months might be worth braving the colder Kos weather and heavier rainfall.
There’s no ‘one size fits all’ when it comes to identifying the best time to visit Kos. The island’s vibrant festivals, historical highlights, and stunning coastlines have something to offer to all sorts of travellers year-round.
The capital of Evia is Chalkida, or Chalkis, the industrial port which you drive into if crossing from the Greek the mainland over the Evripos Channel.
Chalkida on Evia
The channel between Evia and the mainland is renowned for having inexplicable currents, and it is still not known how they can sometimes change direction over a dozen times a day, and sometimes only once. A legend says that Aristotle was so frustrated at his inability to understand the phenomenon that he threw himself into the waters and died. He did actually die in Chalkida, but whether in this fashion is another matter.
Bridge to the Mainland
Chalkida Bridge to Evia
The channel has been bridged since 411BC (the present one only dates from the 1960s), and initially the town was one of the independent Greek city-states until it was conquered by Athens in 506BC. Like the rest of the island it was later subject to rule by a range of peoples: Macedonian, Turkish, Franks, Venetian.
The name of the town is thought to derive from the Greek word for copper, chalkos, as this mineral was one of the island’s early major sources of wealth. An indication of the power that the town once had is that it controlled and gave its name to the Halkidiki peninsula (also spelt Chalkidiki in Greek) and it had several Italian colonies too.
For many years the town of Chalkida vied with Eretria for control of the island and especially the fertile Lelantine Plain which feeds much of the island, but it was not until the 7th century B.C. that Chalkida finally proved its superiority and developed as Evia’s capital.
The Chalkida Waterfront
Today, although at first sight not immediately attractive to the visitor, Chalkida is worth a day or two of your time, for its museums, old town and waterfront areas. The main waterfront area is to the left as you cross the bridge, where you will find restaurants, cafes, ouzeries and hotels. It makes a good place to sit over a coffee or a full meal, gazing out over the channel back to the mainland.
The fish restaurants are so highly-rated that it is said Athenians will drive out for the evening in order to eat here, a distance of 88km (55 miles). Here too is the market, where you can see the island produce brought in by the farmers. It is busy most days but on Saturday in particular, and Saturday morning is the worst time of the week to consider driving through Chalkida or across the bridge with the mainland.
Kastro
If you head for the quarter known as Kastro, heading inland and to the right, away from the bridge, you will find much quieter streets and many old houses that testify to the Turkish and Venetian legacy of the town. An unusual element in this is a community of Muslims from Thrace, much further east, bringing a touch of the Orient, added to by a lovely 15th-century mosque, a Turkish aqueduct and the remains of the 17th-century fortress itself. The aqueduct used to bring water to Chalkida from springs on Mt Dirfys some 25km (16 miles) to the northeast.
Agia Paraskevi
The Christian element is in the form of the rather bizarre and imposing church of Agia Paraskevi. This vast building was built in the 13th century, but in the 14th century the exterior was converted by the Crusaders into a Gothic cathedral, while inside it is a mixture of all of the island’s historical influences. Note the ornate wooden pulpit and the wooden ceiling.
Museums
A two-minute walk from Agia Paraskevi is the Cultural Museum, which has the usual collection of folk costumes and rural artifacts, but better is the town’s Archaeological Museum. This is back in the modern part of Chalkida and has some of the excellent finds from Ancient Eretria, as well as from some of the island’s lesser-known sites, like Karystos. Neither museum is among the best in the country, but they are worth visiting if you plan to have more than just a brief visit to Evia.
