Eurydice Street: A Place in Athens by Sofka Zinovieff is an honest account of what it’s like to move to Athens and live as a foreigner, learning Greek customs.
Eurydice Street, subtitled A Place in Athens, is a rare insight into life in the city beyond what the tourist sees. The author fell in love with Greece as a student, not knowing that years later she would marry a Greek man and go to live with him in his native city, Athens.
As a foreigner, she had a lot to learn about Greek customs, and what it was like to live in Greece’s capital city, and not just to visit. However, she wasn’t alone. Her husband was returning after being an expat for many years, so he too had to adjust to how life had changed, and how he was regarded as a native Greek who had chosen to leave and live elsewhere.
It’s an amusing dichotomy, as some people wonder who in their right mind would want to leave Greece, while others wonder who wouldn’t want to leave this crazy country if they had the chance. Some people think both at the same time.
Living in Athens
The author, who has Russian ancestry but grew up in the UK, soon discovers that living in Athens is very different from visiting it. She very soon learns that punctuality is not a Greek trait. Everyone assumes that everyone else will be late, and as long as you’re all playing by the same rules, it works. Otherwise, if you arrange to meet someone in a restaurant at 9pm and you turn up at 9pm, you’ll be on your own for quite a while.
Zinovieff also learns that if you want to get a taxi, it’s no use doing what you do in other cities, and stand on the sidewalk waving your hand at a passing cab. In Athens, taxis are shared, a system brought in to compensate for a lack of taxis in the city. If a taxi already has one or two passengers, it’s going to be headed in a particular direction, so you have to dash into the road, lean over, and yell your destination at the taxi driver. If it suits him, he’ll stop, otherwise he’ll keep going.
If you look at a street map of Athens, you won’t find a Eurydice Street. The author has changed the name, and also details of her neighbours, whose lives she describes in some detail. It’s not that she says anything derogatory, just that she doesn’t want to reveal any personal information without their permission. She is also an anthropologist, so has a trained eye to observe sometimes small but telling details about people.
You might say she’s being diplomatic, which is fitting as her husband works as a kind of minor diplomat, as a Greek government employee (they met when he was the Press Attaché in Moscow). They already have two children when they move to Athens in 2001, so this gives another angle on life there – through the eyes of their children, and how they get by as parents.
The Athenian Year
The author’s account covers her first year in Athens, and it starts in August. Having spent a fortnight in Athens in August, during a heatwave, I definitely sympathised with her. It’s no fun tramping through city streets when the temperature is over 100F (38C) for hours on end and for days on end.
The book is written chronologically, but for each section the author focuses on a particular topic, like Christmas, or a feast day, or Easter. It’s a clever device for giving a structure to the book, while going into detail about a particular aspect of life in Athens, and also moving their personal story forward as her husband deals with his job, and she deals with her own life and their children.
One thing she learns, by the end of the book, is that if a Greek becomes your true friend, he or she will be an undying friend, and will stand by you no matter what. She gives moving accounts of this kind of loyalty that she finds. The author is a gifted writer, who describes people and events in a way that makes you feel that you know the person, or were in the room at the time.
It’s no wonder this book is still in print long after it was first published in 2004. If you really want to get an inside look into life in Athens, it’s well worth reading.
See Greece lists the ten best museums in Athens, the top two being the National Archaeological Museum and the Acropolis Museum.
Outdoor Sculpture at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens
Athens has many fine museums, with our favourites including the National Archaeological Museum, the Acropolis Museum, the Benaki Museum, the Greek Folk Musical Instruments Museum. and the Museum of Cycladic Art. But there are many more fine museums, including the Jewish Museum, children’s museums, folk art museums, religious museums, art museums, and a very interesting war museum.
Ten Best Museums in Athens
National Archaeological Museum
Gold finds from Mycenae on display at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens
If you only have time to visit one museum when you’re in Athens then make it the National Archaeological Museum. It’s the finest collection of Greek art and artefacts in the world, and it’s one of those rare national museums whose collection is so rich that it doesn’t have anything on display from beyond the country’s own borders.
You should allow at least half a day to visit, though if you are pushed for time consider booking a guided tour before you go, which will make sure you don’t miss any of the highlights. For more information read our full page on the National Archaeological Museum in Athens.
Acropolis Museum
The Acropolis Museum
Time for two of the best museums in Athens? Make this the second one, after the National Archaeological Museum. It tells the fascinating story behind the building of the Acropolis, with marvellous views of the Acropolis and Parthenon across the road. In all it has over 4,000 items on display, all of them found on the Acropolis rock or the surrounding slopes. There are also glass floors in some of the rooms so that you can see the archaeological site on which the museum was built. For more information see the Acropolis Museum website.
Benaki Museum
The Adoration of the Magi by El Greco In the Benaki Museum in Athens
A short walk from Syntagma Square stands the grand mansion that once belonged to the Benakis family. It now houses the Benaki Museum, a spectacular collection of over 100,000 items covering Greek history. It began with the Benakis family’s own collection, but further acquisitions since it opened in 1930 have meant that satellite museums have been opened, showcasing Asian and Islamic art, leaving the main museum to concentrate on Greece. For more details see our full page devoted to the Benaki Museum.
Byzantine and Christian Museum
This is a little further on from the Benaki Museum, on the other side of the road. It isn’t the best-known of Athens’ museums, but it’s long been one of our favourites. That’s partly because of the buildings and the grounds, but also its displays of over 25,000 icons, paintings, frescoes, ceramics, manuscripts, and many other items.
Goulandris Museum of Cycladic Art
Museum of Cycladic Art in Athens
This is also definitely on our list of the top museums in Athens, a few minutes further on from the Benaki Museum on the same side of the street. It dramatically and very effectively displays the graceful sculptures of the Cycladic civilisation, which influenced modern artists such as Picasso and Modigliani. In fact Picasso was the subject of one of the museum’s ongoing series of special exhibitions, which have included Ai Weiwei, El Greco, Dali, and Caravaggio.
National Historical Museum
This museum is housed in what was the Greek Parliament Building from 1858 to 1934. That’s reason enough by itself for a visit, as you get to see the very grand debating chamber. Other highlights include a room devoted to Lord Byron, containing some of his belongings, and a vast archive of charming old photographs.
Museum of Greek Folk Musical Instruments
We both love music and play instruments so naturally we rate this as one of the best museums in Athens. However, we’ve also sent non-musician friends to visit and everyone has loved it. As with some of the other museums, one of the attractions is to see inside the building it’s housed in, in this case a Plaka mansion. It displays a collection of over 600 musical instruments spanning a period of about 300 years. The real fun thing is that the display cases have headphones so you can hear the instruments being played. They include bouzoukis, Cretan lyras, drums, flutes, and bagpipes. The museum doesn’t have a website but you can get all the information you need here.
Jewish Museum of Greece
This museum is housed in a neoclassical mansion, with the outside remaining as it was but the inside was completely and stylishly redone to house this collection of over 6,000 items. It tells the history of Jewish people in Greece, not flinching from the horrors of the holocaust when Athens, like other places in Greece, lost most of its Jewish population. There are also temporary exhibitions, a modern art gallery, and a comprehensive photographic archive. For further information visit the website of the Jewish Museum of Greece.
Museum of Islamic Art
This newer museum was purpose-designed to better display over 8,000 items of Islamic Art that were originally part of the main Benaki Museum collection, which didn’t have space to put everything on display. It’s in a neoclassical mansion not far from the Kerameikos cemetery. It’s a superb collection, one of the most important in the world, and the items are beautifully displayed. It covers Islamic art from India, Asia, the Middle East, Egypt and North Africa, Sicily, Spain and elsewhere. For information about visiting see the main Benaki Museum website.
War Museum of Athens
A war museum might sound like it could be a sombre experience, and in places it is, but it’s an enthralling place too. It tells the story of Greece through the lens of armed conflict, but it’s much more than a series of displays about wars and battles. Outside the entrance are some military vehicles old and new, and inside are model ships, weapons, miniature cities, temple friezes, and an engrossing telling of the role Greece played in World War II.
The best things to do in Athens include top archaeological sites like the Acropolis and must-see attractions such as the National Archaeological Museum.
Statue of Zeus at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens
What are the best things to do in Athens? What are the top must-see sites and attractions, which you shouldn’t miss? If you only have one or two days in the Greek capital, what places and museums should be top of your list? Well, here’s our list of what we think are the best things to do.
The first two are essential, and then we list the rest of the museums and markets, the archaeological sites and places like the Plaka in rough order of importance. Everyone’s different though, so there can never be a definitive list.
We’ve limited ourselves to a Top Ten, as if we didn’t then we’d go on to list 20-30 things you must see and do. But here are our top recommendations.
The Two Best Things to Do in Athens
The Acropolis
The Erechtheion at the Athens Acropolis
The Greek word Acropolis is usually translated as ‘upper town’ or ‘high city’, and it was on this rock that Athens began its life. The Parthenon and several other buildings were constructed here in the 5th century BC, a Golden Age in the development of Athens. The sight of the ancient Parthenon still rising above the modern city is inspiring, and a visit here is definitely the top thing to do in Athens. See our full page about the Athens Acropolis.
The National Archaeological Museum
The Little Jockey Sculpture at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens
Many national museums around the world are filled with wonderful riches, but usually they are items from all around the globe – including many from Ancient Greece. The museum in Athens is exceptional in that it only has Greek items, and despite the many that have been plundered and ended up in the world’s other great museums, here is still the largest collection of ancient Greek artifacts in the world. See our full page all about the National Archaeological Museum.
The Rest of the Best Things to Do in Athens
There are many more things to do and see in Athens, including more fine museums. You could easily compile a list of the top ten museums, and every one would be a gem. However, if you have to prioritise how you spend your time, here are our suggestions for what should be top of your list.
Acropolis Museum
The Acropolis Museum
The Acropolis Museum opened in 2009 and is one of the most exciting museums in the city. It’s below the Parthenon and shows finds from the Acropolis site, as well as fascinating explanations on how that remarkable building was constructed.
Glass floors reveal what was found below, when the museum itself was being excavated, while on the upper floors the museum has been designed to give fabulous views of the Parthenon and other buildings of the Acropolis. It shows what the Parthenon would look like if the controversial Elgin Marbles, now held in London’s British Museum, were returned to their original home.
Museum of Cycladic Art
Museum of Cycladic Art in Athens
This is one museum we always try to visit when we’re in Athens, as the displays are timeless and never cease to delight us. They cover many centuries of ancient Greek art and include vases, glassware and other items, but the main attractions are the beautiful objects from the Cycladic civilisation of 3000–2000BC. Some of the small statues seem to float in their display cabinets, as subtle lighting brings out their shape and texture. Little wonder their graceful shapes inspired many modern artists, and it will be hard to resist taking home one of the beautiful copies from the museum shop.
The Benaki Museum
The Benaki Museum, established in 1930, is housed in the beautiful neoclassical Benakis family mansion and is considered one of Greece’s foremost cultural institutions. Its main building is known as the Museum of Greek Culture and offers a unique journey through Greek history, showcasing over 100,000 artifacts from the prehistoric era all the way to modern times, including Byzantine icons, historic costumes, and Ancient Greek masterpieces. See our page all about the Benaki Museum.
The Ancient Agora of Athens
The Athens Agora
The old market of Athens, below the Acropolis, is an atmospheric place that first became a market in the 6th century BC. It’s easy to imagine it populated by people buying and selling goods from shops and stalls, and talking politics, or about sport or the day’s gossip. For more information visit our full page all about the Athens Agora.
The Central Market
Plenty of Fruit at the Athens Food Market
As well as seeing the Ancient Market, you should try and see the modern Central market, just south of Omonia Square. It’s a real slice of modern Greek life, with butchers, fishmongers, fruit and vegetable stalls, people selling olives, nuts, and all kinds of other produce. If you feel hungry then a meal at one of the market restaurants will be an experience like no other meal in the city – and one of the cheapest eats you’ll have. For a suggestion see our page on Where to Eat in Athens and Piraeus.
Mount Lycabettus
Mount Lycabettus
Mount Lycabettus is the other large hill you can see in the centre of Athens, after the Acropolis. There is one main reason for either walking or taking the funicular up to the top, and that is the view you get over the city – and especially across to the Acropolis. On a clear day you will even be able to see down to the port of Piraeus, and the Aegean Sea beyond. It’s a great place for an evening meal with a view.
The Plaka
The Plaka
Many people deride the Plaka district, on the north side of the Acropolis, because it is undeniably touristy. But if you are on a short visit you should still see it, especially in the evening when the restaurants are in full swing. Be careful where you eat as there are plenty of tourist traps, but there are plenty of decent eating places too. The streets are also filled with souvenir shops, with some good arts and crafts alongside the trinkets, and some interesting food and drink shops as well.
Monastiraki Flea Market
The Monastiraki Market in Athens
Like a visit to the Central Market, a visit to the flea market near Monastiraki Square on a Sunday morning is an authentic Athenian experience. You can explore the streets around here any day of the week and find a fascinating mix of souvenir and junk shops, but on Sunday morning the place is really packed as people go looking for bargains before enjoying a Sunday lunch in their favourite taverna..
Syntagma Square
The Changing of the Guard in Syntagma Square
Athens’ main square has always been a meeting and rallying point, as well as a hub for the city. It stands in front of the Parliament Building, where the Sunday morning Changing of the Guard is a big attraction, and here too is one of the main Metro stations, cafes and bars, and some of the city’s best hotels like the King George and the Hotel Grande Bretagne.
If you’re wondering where to eat in Athens or Piraeus See Greece has a few suggestions including favourites around the Acropolis, Omonia Square and Syntagma.
Dourabeis Restaurant in Piraeus
We’ve also included some highly-acclaimed places, ranging from Michelin-starred restaurants that we aspire to eat in one day, to cheap tavernas that we go to every time we visit Athens and which simply ooze atmosphere.
This neo-classical mansion has contemporary art works on the walls and has been voted the best restaurant not just in Athens but in the whole of Greece several years in a row. Pyrronos 5, Varnava Square, tel: 210 752 4021, spondi.gr
To Kouti €€
One of the few reliable places on this busy Plaka street, most of the others catering for the fast tourist trade. Here the service is more leisurely, the menu’s unusual and the setting with its Acropolis views will give you a romantic night to remember. Adrianou 23, tel: 210 321 3229, no website.
Bakalarakia €
The Bakalarakia Restaurant in Athens
One of the Plaka’s basic basement tavernas, much older and more reliable than many of the smart places on the street. This is named after its speciality, a cod dish served with a garlic sauce. Kidathineon 41, tel: 210 322 5084, mpakaliarakia.gr
O Platanos €
The O Platanos Restaurant in Athens
It sometimes seems like The Plane Tree has been here for as long as the Acropolis, so well-established is it in its leafy square. Visitors love it but locals hang out here too, and though the food is nothing fancy, it is wonderfully cooked. Great atmosphere too, whether outside or inside. Diogenous 4, tel: 210 322 0666, eleinitsa.wixsite.com/platanos
Around Omonia Square
Athinaikon €
The Athinaikon Restaurant in Athens
Wonderful venerable old place with its wooden interior still intact, and some of the waiters dating from the same era. They have one of the best meze menus in town, dozens of dishes made fresh every day so it’s a chance to try lots of different things like grilled octopus or deep-fried whitebait. Themistokleous 2, tel: 210 383 8485, athinaikon.gr
Diporto €
Diporto: Plain and Simple
If you want a real Athens eating experience then head for this old place in a basement beneath the Central Market, where the market traders go for good, honest, fresh, hearty food, though you’ll find local business people there too. If you’re on a budget, it’s ideal. Corner of Theatrou and Sokratous, There’s no phone or website but you can read more about it here: https://culinarybackstreets.com/cities-category/athens/2015/diporto/
Around Syntagma Square
Aigli Café and Restaurant €€€
Aigli Restaurant in Athens
Fabulous setting in the National Gardens by the Zappeion, but don’t assume it’s just another café as the bistro-style menu is very inventive, as is the more extensive (and expensive) French-influenced evening menu. Zappeion, tel: 210 336 9363, aeglizappiou.gr
Balthazar€€€
Sample Plates at the Balthazar
This has long been one of the most stylish places to eat and greet in Athens, housed in a wonderful 19th-century mansion on the north-east edge of Kolonaki.Vournazou/Tsocha 27, tel: 210 644 1215, balthazar.gr
Ratka €€-€€€
International menu ranges from sushi to pasta in this chic place which has been a fashionable meeting and eating spot in Kolonaki for decades. Haritos 32, tel: 210 729 0746, no website.
Ouzadiko €€
This contemporary take on a traditional Greek ouzerie shows off the new Greek-style cooking at its best with a long list of meze, the Greek version of tapas, to choose from, and the chance to find out that not all ouzos taste the same. Karneadou 25-29 (in the shopping mall), tel: 210 729 5484, no website.
Benaki Museum Café €
Dine at the Benaki
Great place for a spot of lunch on this attractive second-floor terrace, with a very popular buffet on their Thursday late-night opening, for which you would be advised to book. Koumbari 1/Vasilissis Sofias, tel: 210 367 1000, benaki.gr.
Dexameni €
Well-loved and long-established café-restaurant, with mainly light meals but a great people-watching place in a lovely little Kolonaki square. Platia Dexameni, tel: 210 723 2834, no website but you can read more here: https://culinarybackstreets.com/cities-category/athens/2013/dexameni/
Piraeus
Alli Skala €€€
Alli Skala Restaurant in Piraeus
This distinguished restaurant has a wonderful courtyard and isn’t over-priced by Piraeus standards. It has a wider menu than just seafood and more seafood, with meats, vegetarian dishes, and good old-fashioned Greek dishes like Greek sausages. Serifou 57, tel: 210 482 7722, allhskala.gr
Jimmy’s Fish€€-€€€
Jimmy’s Fish
Ask an Athenian to recommend one Piraeus fish restaurant and chances are it would be this one, not just for the fresh fish and its speciality seafood pasta dishes but also its lovely setting on the harbour at Mikrolimano. Don’t expect to turn up late on a sunny Sunday lunchtime and expect to find an empty seat. Akti Koumoundourou 46, tel: 210 412 4417, jimmysfish.gr
Dourabeis €€
Dourabeis Restaurant in Piraeus
If a seafood restaurant has been in business for over sixty years then it must be doing something right, and the secret here is: keep it simple. The freshest of fish, the lightest of grillings and dinner is perfect. Not cheap but then fish never is. Akti Dilaveri 27-29, tel: 210 412 2092, facebook.com
See Greece reviews the travel memoir An Aegean Odyssey by novelist Kathryn Gauci, an account of a journey to Athens, Chios, Lesvos, Rhodes, Karpathos & Crete.
By Mike Gerrard
What’s most interesting about An Aegean Odyssey for me, a writer, is the fact that the author made her journey through Greece and kept her journals before she had written a single book. She was learning to write as she travelled. She then put the journals away and only returned to them after she felt she had learned to write, as her numerous books and awards testify.
We readers can be thankful for that, as An Aegean Odyssey is an excellent and evocative tale of travels in Greece to very contrasting destinations: Athens, Chios, Lesvos, Rhodes, Karpathos, and Crete.
Gauci had worked in Greece, in Athens, as a carpet designer in the 1970s. About thirty years later, in 2005, she decided, almost on a whim, to put on hold her business as a textile designer in Melbourne and return to Greece in order (she hoped) to become a writer. Her husband, who sounds like a saint, readily supported his wife’s wish to travel halfway round the world and be away from home for two months, in order to try to become a writer… with no indication that she had any writing talent.
Well, her journey did produce a book, but it wasn’t the expected travel diary. It was a novel, which begins in 1822 in one of the places she visited, Chios. The story then moves to Smyrna in Turkey and then to Athens, another stop on the author’s Aegean Odyssey.
An Aegean Odyssey: Athens
An Aegean Odyssey
The first stop on the author’s journey is Athens, where she stays well away from the city centre and the tourist crowds, and reflects on her previous time in Athens, looking for the carpet factory where she works. She makes friends with neighbours and finds out just how much Athens (and she herself) has changed in the thirty years since she lived there. This is not a book where the author visits the familiar sites, and is all the better for it.
To Chios
The author then goes to Chios, a choice influenced by a painting she saw in the Louvre in Paris, Delacroix’s Scenes from the Massacre at Chios. This was painted in 1824, and the author’s first novel begins on Chios in 1822, so you can see how her trip inspired her future fiction writing.
An Aegean Odyssey: The Author
Kathryn Gauci is a British-born award-winning best-selling author who worked in Athens for six years as a carpet designer before settling to live in Melbourne, Australia. Here she ran a textile design studio before turning to writing, her work influencing her first novel, The Embroiderer, set in Greece.
Gauci has subsequently written numerous novels set in both Greece and Turkey, including an acclaimed series set during World War II. She became a USA Today Bestseller and an Amazon Bestseller, and has won several awards for her fiction.
History-Lover
The author is certainly a lover of Greek history – the Chios chapter begins with several pages of it – so if you’re as interested as I am in it, you’ll probably love the book, and the author’s historical novels.
But it’s not all dry factual history. If you’re a lover of good writing, you won’t be disappointed. Take this, for example:
I was surrounded by a palette of diverse, rich colours. Everything was saturated with the Mediterranean sunshine. Glowing purple aubergines contrasted with brilliant red tomatoes and glossy red peppers, bright green peppers, fresh green parsley and baby courgettes. Braids of garlic cascaded everywhere, and the carrots, potatoes, and onions still had a damp smell as if they had just been pulled out of the earth. There were mounds of beans in all shapes and sizes, enormous bunches of spinach, and my favourite of all, the delicate yellow-tipped courgette blossoms. In summer, fragrant fruits added another rush to the senses. Dark, velvety grapes, blush-coloured apricots, and orange-fleshed melons bursting with perfume made one feel glad to be alive.
What a beautiful vivid description – and the book is full of them. The author is clearly very observant, and she draws your attention to aspects of Greek life that you might take for granted, like the sound of church bells or the hand-drawn signs above shop doorways, like this:
The best and most creative signs of all are the milk and cheese shops, vegetable shops, and especially the butchers. They are in the centre of the old market streets, adding extra character to the area. Some of these signs take up the whole of the shop front, covering every centimetre of the wall except for the windows. One butcher has named his shop Eclectic and underneath is written Meats. On each side are stylised images of a leg of lamb and a chop.
I especially liked this comment:
I flop on my bed and watch the news on the BBC, where I am faced with wars, terrorism, and economic doom and gloom, with a little Hollywood gossip thrown in to add spice. I switch it off. Now I know why I left the real world behind me.
I was glad I left the real world behind me in the time I spent reading An Aegean Odyssey. It’s one of the best travel books about Greece that I’ve read in the past few years.
A Thing of Beauty by Peter Fiennes describes ‘Travels in Mythical and Modern Greece’ and places the Greek Gods in the context of modern-day Greece.
A Thing of Beauty by Peter Fiennes
Here at See Greece we’re suckers, of course, for travel books about Greece. Our shelves are sagging with them. They include classics like Patrick Leigh Fermor, Lawrence Durrell, and Henry Miller, to more recent must-read titles like Eurydice Street and Wild Abandon. To this list can be added A Thing of Beauty by Peter Fiennes, an evocative and informative book whose sub-title sums it up: Travels in Mythical and Modern Greece.
You would therefore expect his new book about Greece to shine when it comes to the nature writing, and it certainly does, though that is only one part of its multi-faceted appeal. It’s for anyone interested in the Greek Gods and their myths, the Greek countryside and wildlife, Greek politics and history, climate change and sustainable living, whether there’s any hope in the world today… and how many Greek salads can one man eat? If you’re interested in more than one of those topics, it’s definitely the book for you.
Travels in Greece
It’s the theme of the Greek myths which holds the book together, though, as the author travels around the country visiting the places where some of the more famous myths are said to have occurred.
Beginning in Athens and ending in Epirus, via a drive around the Peloponnese, the author retells those myths as well as talking to present-day Greeks – some in pre-arranged meetings and others by chance – and asking everyone the question he’s most curious about: is there hope? It’s a serious question although the book itself is far from sombre, as the author has a light touch and is very funny in places.
Lord Byron
In fact the book begins not in Athens but in Nottinghamshire in England. At Newstead Abbey, to be exact, the ancestral home of George Gordon Byron, 6th Baron Byron, better-known to the world as Lord Byron, poet and Grecophile. The author’s travel plans were scuppered, or at least delayed, by the outbreak of Covid, so he takes the chance to go and see Lord Byron’s home.
And it’s thanks to this that we get a hugely entertaining chapter about Byron and his family, filled with salacious details, leading up to his love affair with Greece. Well, he’d had every other kind of love affair, why not with an entire country?
And while Covid is initially an impediment, it turns out to add what was probably an unexpected dimension to the book. After all, it’s not in the least bit far-fetched to look upon the pandemic as a curse brought down on mankind by the Gods above, Greek or otherwise. This is another theme the author skilfully weaves into the tapestry of his story.
On the Road in Greece
Renting a car, and leaving his wife and son behind after a few family days, the author drives around Greece visiting such places as Eleusis, Corinth, Mycenae, Epidavros, Olympia, Delphi (where he encounters an online Oracle), Messolonghi (where Byron, or at least a bit of him, is buried), and ultimately to the wilds of Epirus, a majestic landscape threatened by voracious oil developers and by fracking.
Lost and Found
While dealing with the immortal (well, some of them) and almighty Gods, the author proves himself to be all-too-human, and very self-deprecating with it. He manages to get lost while hiking, stumbling across German nudists on a beach, and when he has treated himself to a decent hotel for the all-important visit to Delphi, he ends up in the worst room in the building, with the smell of tobacco and the sound of conversation – which is seldom whispered in Greece – both wafting in from a ventilation shaft of some kind.
Epirus
For me the book builds to the best part, towards the end, where the author visits Epirus. Here he meets up with an ornithologist contact, Julian Hoffman, who lives in Prespa, and we’re treated to sightings that show just how rich parts of Greece are in birds and other flora and fauna. Even the ornithologist is impressed by what they see in the Ambracian Gulf, a stone’s throw, literally, from the airport at Preveza which brings holidaymakers in by the charter-flight planeload throughout a normal summer.
In this section I learned where I’m definitely going to eat if I ever find myself in Mitikas, just outside Preveza: the Doctor of Hunger steakhouse, it has to be. It’s also in Epirus, at the Monastery of Rodia, that the author and his ornithologist companion meet an eccentric elderly Greek man named Costas, who for some reason seems to be gathering cyclamen. As they’re about to leave, Costas hands them a bunch of cyclamen and tells them with great feeling: ‘Remember what men are here for. It is to share stories about the things that matter.’
It’s a wonderful summing-up of what’s important in life, and Peter Fiennes should be proud of himself that in his book he has done just that. He’s shared stories about things that matter.
See Greece picks the best time to visit Athens with a month-by-month account of the weather, hotel prices and any special events that are happening.
It Does Rain in Athens!
Athens is a riveting mix of history and contemporary culture, with a climate that often surprises the uninitiated. Before we dive into our month-by-month guide to the best time to visit Athens, let’s talk a little bit about what you can expect weather-wise in this incredible city.
Athens has, not surprisingly, a Mediterranean climate, with hot, dry summers and mild, wet winters. But remember, it also has its fair share of microclimates due to the surrounding mountains and the sea, leading to some refreshing variations you’ll appreciate. Let’s dive into what each month of the year brings.
Plenty of Fruit at the Athens Food Market
Best Time to Visit Athens Month-by-Month
January has average temperatures of around 55°F (13°C), and it is one of the city’s wettest months with an average rainfall of an estimated 2.24” (56.9mm). Snowfall is quite rare, but if you’re lucky, you might witness the majestic Acropolis dressed in white. On the hotel front, you’ll find some much-needed respite from inflated prices, making it quite an affordable time to visit.
February is similar to January, with temperatures around 57°F (14°C), and average rainfall hitting about 1.84” (46.7mm). No major tourist events occur this month, resulting in lower hotel rates. This time of year offers a quiet, unhurried experience of the city, so it’s perfect for anyone who likes to avoid the crowds.
A mild month, March serves up an average temperature of 62°F (17°C), with rainfall decreasing to 1.6” (40.6mm). It also hosts the Athens Half Marathon, an event attracting a good mix of locals and travelers. Hotel prices begin to nudge upwards but are still comparatively affordable.
The Parthenon is Beautiful All Year Round
A balmy 70°F (21°C) is the norm in April, although it still comes with 1.2” (30.5mm) of rainfall on average. The Easter celebrations in Athens are quite a spectacle, with the city coming alive in religious fervor and cultural fun. Expect hotel prices to rise during the Easter period though.
The Athens weather in May steps up the heat, bringing average temperatures of 79°F (26°C), but still with moderate rainfall of about 0.9” (22.9mm). Towards the end of the month, you can enjoy the Athens Technopolis Jazz Festival, and while hotel prices go up a tad, it’s a good time to visit.
June marks the start of the hot Athens summer. With average temperatures nudging 88°F (31°C) and the raindrops more or less disappearing, suntan lotion is a must. Consider attending the Release Athens Music Festival, which typically occurs in the summer months. Hotel rates are at their peak during this season, so book in advance!
The Changing of the Guard in Athens
July is the hottest month, averaging 91°F (33°C), with virtually no rainfall. It marks the start of the outdoor cinema season, which is an essential part of Athens’ summer culture. Hotel prices stay high, so early booking is key to securing a good deal.
August continues the scorching Athens climate trend with averages still at 91°F (33°C), but remember that these are averages and it often gets much hotter. We know from experience! With locals often out of town and other tourists avoiding the heat, Athens becomes a quieter version of itself. Despite the Athens Epidavros Festival, hotel prices usually decrease slightly due to the mass exodus.
September, often considered one of the best time to visit Athens, delivers an average temperature of 84°F (29°C), and rainfall is still minimal. Local tourism picks up again, along with hotel rates but it’s typically less crowded and more enjoyable.
Athens and the Acropolis
October brings temperatures down to a more comfortable 74°F (23°C), coupled with slightly increased rainfall around 2.05” (52.1mm). Hotel rates start to dip post summer.
November carries you into the start of winter with an average temperature of 64°F (18°C) and rainfall increasing to around 2.3” (58.4mm). Besides the Athens Authentic Marathon, there aren’t many major tourist events in November, and hotel prices continue a slight decline.
The Athens weather in December brings on the cold, presenting an average temperature of 59°F (15°C), coupled with a rainfall of 2.7” (69.1mm). While a rare snowfall could be in the offing, Athens really shines in the holiday season, with festive decorations and fun-filled events. Hotel prices are at their lowest, making it one of the most cost-effective times to visit.
The Plaka District of Athens
Hopefully this guide helps you pick the best time to visit Athens, and remember that Athens’ temperate climate ensures an enjoyable trip no matter when you decide to go.
The best views in Athens include views from the Acropolis and of the Acropolis from the top of some of the city’s several hills and from hotels and restaurants.
View from the Acropolis
Best Views in Athens: From the Acropolis
Although the view of the Parthenon on top of the Acropolis is the single most recognisable view of Athens, the views from the Acropolis are also something special.
On one side you can look north across the city centre to see Lykabettos Hill, and in the distance the range of hills that surround Athens. To the south the view is towards Piraeus and the sea.
Best Views in Athens: Of the Acropolis
Many hotels and restaurants boast of their bars and terraces with views of the Acropolis, which are particularly impressive at night. They’re not all expensive, either. The inexpensive Attalos Hotel, for example, which is a personal favourite, has great Acropolis views from its roof.
We’ve also enjoyed the views – and the superb food! – in the Tudor Hall Restaurant at the top of the King George Hotel on Syntagma Square.
The Acropolis Museum Rooftop
The Acropolis Museum
This offers a modern and luxurious viewing experience. The museum’s rooftop restaurant and café provide a direct, eye-level view of the Acropolis right next door. Enjoy a coffee or dinner with the Parthenon as your backdrop—a perfect blend of ancient wonder and contemporary design.
Aeropagus
Just to the northwest of the Acropolis is Aeropagus, a rocky outcrop that stands 115 meters (377 feet) high and gives you views both of the Acropolis and of the city. The Athenian governing council used to meet up here, and it is where St Paul delivered his sermon known as the Aeropagus Sermon.
Filopappos Hill
Filopappos Hill is southwest of the Acropolis and is 147 meters (482 feet) in height. It was once known as the Hill of the Muses, as it was believed that those inspirational goddesses known as the Muses were buried here.
Lykabettos Hill
Lykabettos Hill
Lykabettos is the highest point in the city centre at 277 meters (908 feet), so naturally provides the best views. Don’t forget your camera as it’s from here you will want to try to get your perfect shot of the Acropolis. If it’s a clear day, you will be able to see down to the port of Piraeus, where the Aegean glistens in the far distance, hinting at the beckoning Greek islands beyond.
For the best experience, book a table at the Orizontes Restaurant, at the top of Lykabettos. From there you can enjoy the views while having a good meal and a drink. We’ve eaten there and it’s a magical experience.
The Pnyx
The Athenian Assembly used to meet in the amphitheatre on the side of the Pnyx hill, and it gave them an impressive view of the Parthenon on top of the nearby Acropolis. Fewer visitors make it here, which is a shame as from the Pnyx you get an excellent view of the front of the Parthenon, which makes for some good photos. Professional photographers often shoot the building from here with a telephoto lens, to get the best results.
Strefi Hill
A quieter, more local spot located in the Exarcheia neighborhood, Strefi Hill offers a different perspective. It’s a great place to escape the tourist crowds and get a view of the Acropolis and Mount Lycabettus from a distance.
Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center (SNFCC)
For a more modern view of Athens, head to the SNFCC. The expansive rooftop park offers a unique panoramic view of the city and the sea. It’s an excellent place to see how Athens’ urban landscape connects with the coast.
The National Observatory of Athens
Located on the Hill of the Nymphs, the National Observatory provides a fantastic viewpoint for seeing the Acropolis and the ancient ruins below. They also offer nighttime astronomy sessions, making it a great place to see the floodlit Parthenon.
Panathanaikos Stadium
Panathanaikos Stadium in Athens
The historic Panathanaikos Stadium, home of the first modern Olympic Games in 1896, offers a unique viewpoint. From the top row of seats, you can get a panoramic view of the stadium and see a wide expanse of the city, including the Acropolis.
The Temple of Olympian Zeus
From the ground level within the archaeological site of the Temple of Olympian Zeus, you are treated to a powerful view. The towering columns of the temple frame the Acropolis perfectly in the distance, creating a stunning photographic composition of two ancient giants.
Anafiotika
This charming neighborhood, tucked away under the Acropolis, is a hidden gem. Its narrow streets and traditional Cycladic architecture give it the feel of a Greek island village. As you wander through its paths, you’ll get picturesque, close-up views of the Acropolis from a different angle.
Pro Tip
For the best experience, visit the hilltop views (Lycabettus, Philopappos, Areopagus) just before sunset to see the city in the golden hour and then watch it transform into a sea of twinkling lights.
Sunset at Cape Sounion
Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion near Athens
OK, so this one isn’t in Athens itself but it isn’t far and apart from its historical interest, the Temple of Poseidon out at Cape Sounion also adds drama to one of the most stunning views around the city of Athens. Many people from Athens make their way out here for the sunset, and when the conditions are right the rewards are tremendous.
You can see across the bay and out to sea, with several islands visible in the near and far distance. It immediately makes you want to be on a boat, out on the Aegean and sailing out towards those romantic-looking dots of land in the distance.
This, then, is our choice of some of the best views in Athens.
The Athens Agora or ancient market is a must-see site and one of the best things to do in Athens with its restored arcade building, the Stoa, and its museum.
The Athens Agora
After the Acropolis and National Archaeological Museum, the market place of ancient Athens, or Athens Agora, is another ‘must see’. It features some good remains and a fine, small museum.
The Ancient Agora of Athens: Heart of a Civilization
Location and Origins
Nestled beneath the northwest slope of the Acropolis, the Ancient Agora of Athens was the beating heart of Athenian life. The word agora in ancient Greek means “gathering place” or “assembly,” and that’s precisely what it was—a vibrant hub where politics, commerce, philosophy, and daily life converged. Established in the 6th century BCE, the Agora evolved from a simple open space into a complex urban center that reflected the dynamism of Athenian society.
The Ancient Agora in Athens
Architectural Grandeur and Layout
The Agora wasn’t just a dusty square—it was a sprawling complex of stoas (covered walkways), temples, altars, law courts, and public buildings. The layout was centered around the Panathenaic Way, a sacred road that cut through the Agora and led to the Dipylon Gate, the main entrance to the city. This road was used during the Panathenaic Festival, a grand celebration held every four years in honor of Athena, the city’s patron goddess.
Among the most iconic structures were:
Temple of Hephaestus: One of the best-preserved ancient Greek temples, dedicated to the god of metalworking and craftsmanship.
Stoa of Attalos: A reconstructed colonnaded building that now houses the Museum of the Ancient Agora.
Altar of the Twelve Gods: A central religious site and a reference point for measuring distances in Athens.
Royal Stoa (Stoa Basileios): Where the king archon conducted official duties and religious ceremonies.
Bema: A speaker’s platform used for public addresses and legal proceedings.
Political Powerhouse
The Agora was the epicenter of Athenian democracy. Citizens gathered here to discuss laws, vote on issues, and hold trials. It was home to the Bouletarion, where the Council of 500 met to prepare legislation for the Assembly. The law courts, often held in open-air spaces, allowed ordinary citizens to serve as jurors—a radical idea that laid the foundation for modern democratic systems.
The Stoa in the Athens Agora
The Stoa of Zeus, another key structure, wasn’t just a religious site—it was also a place where Socrates and other philosophers debated ideas, questioned norms, and shaped the intellectual legacy of the Western world.
Commercial and Social Life
Beyond politics, the Agora was a bustling marketplace. Merchants sold everything from olive oil and pottery to textiles and food. Artisans worked in nearby workshops, and citizens mingled in the stoas, exchanging gossip, news, and philosophical musings. It was a place where rich and poor, young and old, citizens and foreigners crossed paths.
The Mint, located in the Agora, produced bronze coinage, though not the famed Athenian silver coins. This economic activity was vital to Athens’ prosperity and its role as a Mediterranean powerhouse.
The Athens Agora
Intellectual and Philosophical Legacy
Few places in history have hosted such a concentration of intellectual energy. The Agora was the stomping ground of Socrates, Plato, and Aristotle. Socrates, in particular, is said to have spent much of his time here, engaging passersby in dialogue and challenging them to think critically. His method—asking probing questions to reveal contradictions—was born in the Agora’s open spaces.
This tradition of inquiry and debate helped shape the Western philosophical canon, making the Agora not just a physical space but a symbol of free thought and civic engagement.
The Athens Agora
Turbulent Times and Resilience
The Agora’s history wasn’t all sunshine and symposiums. It was destroyed multiple times, including by the Persians in 480 BCE, the Romans, and the Herulians, a Scandinavian tribe, in 267 CE. Each time, it was rebuilt, reflecting the resilience of Athenian society.
Under Roman rule, the Agora saw new additions, including the Library of Pantainos, which served not just as a repository of books but also as a multifunctional civic space. The Romans also added basilicas, nymphaea, and other structures that blended Greek and Roman architectural styles.
Religious Significance
Religion permeated every corner of the Agora. Temples dedicated to Zeus, Apollo, Athena, and Ares dotted the landscape. The Panathenaic Way itself was a sacred route, and the Temple of Hephaestus remains one of the most revered religious sites from antiquity.
The Agora wasn’t just a place for worship—it was a sacred space where civic and spiritual life intertwined. Rituals, sacrifices, and festivals were common, reinforcing the idea that public life in Athens was deeply rooted in divine order.
In the Athens Agora
The Athens Agora Today
Today, the Ancient Agora of Athens is a stunning archaeological site that offers a window into the past. Visitors can walk the same paths as Socrates, stand where jurors once deliberated, and marvel at the enduring beauty of classical architecture.
The Agora Museum, housed in the reconstructed Stoa of Attalos, provides context and artifacts that bring the site to life. From pottery shards to inscriptions, the museum paints a vivid picture of daily life in ancient Athens.
Accessible via the Monastiraki and Thiseio metro stations, the Agora is a must-visit for anyone interested in history, philosophy, or the roots of democracy.
In the Athens Agora
Conclusion: More Than Just Ruins
The Ancient Agora of Athens was more than a marketplace—it was the soul of a civilization. It embodied the ideals of democracy, free speech, commerce, and community. Its legacy continues to inspire modern societies striving for civic engagement and intellectual freedom.
Standing in the Agora today, one doesn’t just see ruins. One sees the footprints of thinkers, the echoes of debates, and the spirit of a people who dared to shape the world with ideas.
The National Archaeological Museum is one of the best things to see in Athens, and the best museum in the world for seeing Greece’s ancient treasures.
The National Archaeological Museum in Athens
This collection of the best treasures from Greek civilisations down the centuries forms the core of one of the world’s great museums. If you do only two things in Athens you should visit the Acropolis and also visit this remarkable collection of artifacts.
Outdoor Sculpture at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens
Guided Tours of the National Archaeological Museum
To see everything properly you would probably need to visit the museum at least twice, as there is too much to take in on one long visit when museum-fatigue might set in. If your time is limited then take a guided tour which will show you the unmissable highlights, and these tours are available in several languages. Ask in the ticket office. You should at the very least buy a museum guide, or take an audio tour, also available in different languages.
Mycenean Collection
Gold Cup from Mycenae at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens
If you’re visiting by yourself then head first for the Mycenean collection, one of the jewels in the crown whether you have plans to visit Mycenae or not. These treasures from the royal tombs at Mycenae date from 1500 BC. They include gleaming gold masks, cups, dishes, and jewellery discovered by archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann in 1874.
Don’t miss the exquisite golden burial mask which Schliemann believed (partly because he wanted to) to be the face of King Agamemnon. Later dating, however, showed that it predated King Agamemnon (if he even existed) and the Trojan Wars by 200-300 years. Other finds include a silver wine vase (a rhyton) in the form of a bull’s head with horns of pure gold.
Cycladic Figurines
Cycladic Bowl at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens
You will also find a stunning collection of Cycladic figurines found, naturally, in the Cycladic islands. Despite dating from about 2000 BC they are uncannily modern-looking.
Sculptures at the National Archaeological Museum
Sculptures at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens
The museum’s sculptures are equally impressive. Seek out the rudely exuberant statue depicting the gods Pan and Aphrodite, dating from the 1st century AD. He clearly has lascivious designs on the naked goddess, while she preserves her modesty with one hand and wields a show in defence in the other. Also lovely are the remnants of a colossal cult statue of Zeus, found in 1916, and some delicate plaques of dancing girls from the Theatre of Dionysos below the Acropolis.
Bronzes at the National Archaeological Museum
Statue of Poseidon (or Zeus) at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens
The bronzes, which include some of the museum’s largest works, possess an overpowering majesty, none more so than the huge figure of the sea god Poseidon. Arm stretched back in muscular grace, he is about to throw a trident, though some believe the figure is actually Zeus preparing to throw a thunderbolt. Experts have been able to use his facial expression to date the statue to about 460-450 BC.
The Little Jockey Sculpture at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens
The more delicate Jockey Boy (or Little Jockey) is one of the museum’s most famous bronzes. The powerful horse and its tiny rider may or may not have been intended as one work – it was found in pieces – but the result is dramatic and full of movement. The figures were discovered, like Poseidon, in the sea off Cape Artemision, off the coast near Evia, and date from the 2nd century BC.
Another brilliant piece is ‘The Youth of Antikythira’, a 6.5-feet (2m) high bronze statue of a nude young man that combines delicacy and power. Some believe it’s the work of the famous sculptor and painter, Euphranor of Corinth. The youth once held a spherical object in his right hand, perhaps an apple, which would make him Paris, the son of King Priam and Queen Hecuba of Troy. The statue gets its name because it was found in the waters off the small island of Antikythera in 1900 and dates from the Hellenistic period (323-31 BC).
Egyptian Art at the National Archaeological Museum
Miniature Egyptian Boat at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens
The collection of Egyptian art reminds us of the way the ancient Greeks had close trading relationships with the Egyptians. Among the works to admire are an alabaster statue of a pharaoh dating from 2575-2155 BC, a granite statuette of Ramses II dating from 1290-1244 BC, and a stone stela from 664-525 BC with hieratic text, the ancient Egyptian writing system.
The Gift Shop at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens
Private Collections
The museum also boasts two private collections: the Eleni Stathatou Jewellery Collection and the Karpanos Collection. The latter includes many artifacts from the ancient site of Dodoni, near Ioannina in Epirus, including lead tablets containing questions for the oracle at Dodoni.
The jewellery collection includes beautiful works in turquoise, silver, bronze, and glass, ranging in time from the Bronze Age to the Byzantine era.
Jewellery at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens
Temporary Exhibits
Also worth checking out are the museum’s temporary exhibits, as there have been some really impressive shows put on there over the years.
Numismatic Museum
Coins from the Numismatic Museum in Athens
Coin enthusiasts will definitely want to see the Numismatic Museum, which has one of the greatest collections of coins in the world. It contains over 600,000 items and coins range from the ancient Greeks through the Roman and Byzantine period right through to the present day.
It’s also interesting for the building in which it is housed, the 1878 mansion which was once the home of archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann and known as the House of troy. It’s a 20-minute walk from the National Archaeological Museum, a few minutes from Syntagma Square, but it is part of the main museum collection.
Greek Coins
The old Greek currency, the drachma, had been in existence since at least 1100 BC before it was replaced by the euro in January 2002. It wasn’t a universally popular move, partly because of the drachma’s longevity and partly because there were price rises caused by ’rounding up’ amounts due to the new exchange rates. The drachma lived on, though, on the new 1 euro coins which cleverly depict on one side an old 4 drachmae coin from the 5th century BC. The 2 euro coin also has an ingenious design from Greek mythology showing Zeus as a bull abducting Europa, after whom Europe and ultimately the euro were named. Other coins depict Greek ships, from old triremes to a modern tanker, and famous Greek politicians including Venizelos and Kapodistrias.
Frieze from Santorini at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens
The Athens Acropolis has the city’s most iconic building, the Parthenon, along with other historic buildings and is where the Elgin Marbles were taken from.
The Parthenon on the Acropolis in Athens
Akro poli means ‘upper city’, and many Greek towns have an acropolis, such as Lindos on Rhodes. Athens has the most famous, capped as it is by the Parthenon. Whether you see it in daylight when approaching from the airport, at night from your hotel balcony, or up close when you visit, the Parthenon dominates the Athens skyline, a constant reminder of the Golden Age of ancient Greece.
Sometimes people get confused with the names. The Acropolis is the whole area of the upper city, and the rock on which all the buildings at the top stand. The Parthenon is the name of the main temple, the one that you can see from everywhere.
Getting to the Athens Acropolis
This Way to the Acropolis!
You can reach the entrance to the Acropolis by walking up one of the two approaches to the western end. The more atmospheric of the two is through the Plaka district where you will spot occasional hand-written signs directing you up through the steep and winding streets. Local shopkeepers are also used to being asked directions, as the route is not always obvious. The approach from the pedestrianised Dionysiou Areopagitou street is perfectly straightforward.
On the Athens Acropolis
The Parthenon in Athens
Evidence of a settlement on the southern slopes of the Acropolis dates the first habitation in Athens to about 3000 BC. The buildings that remain date mainly from the 5th century BC, when ancient Athens reached its pinnacle during the period that is referred to as the Golden Age of Pericles.
Pericles hired the finest workers of the day, including the master sculptor Pheidias. He was the main artistic director of the Parthenon, the temple and the first building to be raised on the site. The great architect Iktinos was probably responsible for its overall design and construction.
It’s now one of the well-known facts about the Parthenon that it has no straight lines in its construction, the apparent symmetry being created by gently tapering columns and steps. The building is designed using repeated ratios of 9:4, for such aspects as the gap between columns in relation to the width of a single column, or the width of the building in relation to its height.
Originally, the focus of the building was a 40-foot-high (12 m) golden statue of the goddess Athena, after whom the city is named. A model of the Parthenon as it would have looked then can be seen in the National Archaeological Museum.
Building the Athens Acropolis
The Athens Acropolis
The building took nine years to construct, was finished in 438 BC, and is made from marble quarried locally. Flecks of iron in the chosen marble give the building its wonderfully warm golden glow in the evening light.
Several other buildings on top of the Acropolis are worth a closer look. To the right, soon after you enter, is the small temple of Athena Nike, added in 427-424 BC to celebrate victories by the Athenians in their wars with the Persians. Athena Nike means Athene of Victory. The Parthenon was dedicated to a different aspect of the goddess, Athena Promachos, Athena the Champion. In 1686 the temple was destroyed by the Turks who were then occupying Greece. It has been reconstructed twice since then, most recently in 1936-1940.
The Turks wreaked havoc on the Acropolis, including building a mosque inside the Parthenon, which was left to fall into ruin before parts of it were sold off to Lord Elgin (see box below on the Elgin Marbles). The Turks also used the building as a weaponry store, which resulted in further damage when the arsenal exploded after being fired upon. This happened in 1687 and removed the roof of the Parthenon.
First Olive Tree in Athens
The Erechtheion at the Athens Acropolis
Over to your left as you approach the Parthenon from the entrance is the Erechtheion, added between 421 and 395 BC and partially reconstructed in 1827. It is said that the first olive tree in Athens sprouted on this spot when the goddess Athena touched the ground with her spear. An olive tree has been kept growing here since 1917 as a symbol of this legend.
The building includes the Porch of the Caryatids, where the supporting columns have been sculpted in the shapes of six maidens. Those you see today on the site are copies. Five of the originals are in the Acropolis Museum. The sixth was carried off by Lord Elgin.
The Elgin Marbles
The Elgin Marbles in the British Museum
In 1801 Thomas Bruce, the Earl of Elgin, was the British Ambassador to the Porte, which was the name of the Turkish government that was then in control in Athens. The Turks were using antiquities from the crumbling Acropolis as building materials.
Lord Elgin was allowed to save some stones and sculptures, which he ended up selling to the British government, who handed them to the British Museum in 1816. The most famous of these, the friezes from the Parthenon, became known as the Elgin Marbles, although the Greeks refer to them more appropriately as the Parthenon Marbles.
The Greeks have wanted the friezes back virtually ever since they gained their independence in 1832. Pressure was increased in the 1980s by the Greek Minister of Culture, Melina Mercouri, and the campaign continues.
When the new Acropolis Museum opened in 2009, it had a special viewing area giving terrific views of the Acropolis and the Parthenon, and showing how wonderful the building would look if the friezes were returned. T
he British Museum had always argued that the friezes could not be returned because there was no suitable place in Athens where they could be safely displayed. That argument is no longer valid, but the friezes remain in London.
World Heritage Site
The Athens Acropolis is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Learn more here.
This walk around the Kolonaki neighbourhood of Athens starts and ends in Syntagma Square and takes you to several museums, Kolonaki Square and Mount Lykabettos.
Kolonaki
Start/end point: Syntagma Square
Distance: 3 kms (1.9 miles)
Time: 90 minutes without stops, 2–3 hours with stops, or all day if you also visit any of the museums.
Walk Around Kolonaki: Directions
From Syntagma Square walk up Vasilissis Sofias, the main road to the left of the imposing National Parliament building. At the fifth junction on your left, on the corner with Koumbari, stands the Benaki Museum. The museum houses the art collection of a wealthy Greek merchant, Antoine Benaki. See our full page about the Benaki Museum.
Kolonaki: Shopping & Fashion Hub
Home to designer stores (e.g., Louis Vuitton, Gucci) and local Greek fashion boutiques.
Voukourestiou Street is famous for its jewelry shops and luxury brands.
The weekly Kolonaki Flea Market (on Xenokratous Street) offers antiques, books, and vintage items.
To Kolonaki Square
Turn left by the museum, up Koumbari to Kolonáki Square. Kolonáki is one of the most fashionable districts of Athens, the kind of place where well-to-do Greek ladies walk their dogs. Kolonáki Square is surrounded by designer stores, cafés, and smart gift shops.
The area has a mix of bouzoukia clubs and upscale cocktail lounges.
To Mount Lykabettos
Cross the square and leave it at the far right corner along the main road, Patriarchou Ioakim. Cross two junctions; at the third, at the first set of traffic lights, turn left up Plutarchou.
Mount Lykabettos
This steep street leads towards Mount Lykabettos, visible at the top.
At the end of Plutarchou you may appreciate taking the funicular to the top of Mount Lykabettos. Enjoy the views over Athens: on a clear day you can see as far as the island of Aegina.
The Lycabettus Theater hosts concerts and performances with panoramic views.
To the Byzantine and Christian Museum
Take the zigzag path to the left, going down again through the lightly wooded slopes of the hill. If you ignore minor paths to left and right, you emerge on Aristippou, about 100m down from the funicular station. Head straight down Loukianou, another steep stepped Kolonáki Street, back down to Vasilissis Sofias, to emerge almost opposite the Byzantine and Christian Museum.
Kolonaki houses several foreign embassies and diplomatic residences, adding to its cosmopolitan feel.
Back to Syntagma Square
Turning left here would take you to the War Museum and, a little further on, the National Gallery. If you have had enough walking for one day, turn right to go back down Vasilissis Sofias and return to Syntagma Square.
Athens’ Benaki Museum is one of the city’s top museums with an outstanding collection, especially of Greek and Egyptian artefacts, in a beautiful mansion.
Owl Bracelet in the Benaki Museum in Athens
The Benaki Museum, nestled in the heart of Athens, Greece, stands as a pivotal cultural institution, offering visitors a rich and comprehensive journey through the country’s vibrant history and artistic heritage, while also extending its gaze to neighboring cultures.
History of the Benaki Museum
Founded by Antonis Benakis in 1930, the museum was originally housed in the family’s neoclassical mansion on Vasilissis Sofias Avenue. Benakis, a passionate collector and philanthropist, envisioned a museum that would not only showcase Greek art and culture but also serve as a bridge between East and West, reflecting Greece’s unique geographical and historical position.
Main Benaki Museum Building
The main building on Vasilissis Sofias Avenue remains the museum’s central hub and houses its most extensive collection, tracing the evolution of Greek civilization from the prehistoric era to the 20th century. This core collection is meticulously organized, guiding the visitor through millennia of history and artistic expression.
The journey begins with artifacts from the Prehistoric period, including Neolithic pottery and tools, offering glimpses into the earliest settlements and cultures that flourished on Greek soil.
Moving forward, the collection delves into the Ancient Greek period, featuring exquisite examples of pottery, sculpture, and metalwork from the Geometric, Archaic, Classical, and Hellenistic eras. These pieces not only demonstrate the technical mastery of ancient craftsmen but also provide invaluable insights into the daily life, beliefs, and societal structures of ancient Greece.
The Adoration of the Magi by El Greco In the Benaki Museum in Athens
The Roman and Byzantine Periods
The Roman period in Greece is also well-represented, illustrating the cultural exchange and continuity that characterized this era. The collection transitions seamlessly into the Byzantine period, a cornerstone of the Benaki Museum’s holdings. Here, visitors can admire a stunning array of icons, manuscripts, textiles, and decorative arts that reflect the spiritual depth and artistic sophistication of the Byzantine Empire. T
he collection highlights the enduring legacy of Byzantine art and its profound influence on subsequent artistic developments in the region. Following the fall of Constantinople, the museum’s exhibits explore the Post-Byzantine period, showcasing the resilience of Greek culture under Ottoman rule. This section features religious art, folk costumes, and everyday objects that speak to the preservation of Greek identity and traditions during this challenging time.
Greek War of Independence
Death of Markos Botsaris by Marsigli Filippo In the Benaki Museum in Athens
The journey continues into the Neo-Hellenic period, covering the years leading up to and following the Greek War of Independence in 1821. This part of the collection includes historical artifacts, portraits of national heroes, and examples of the emerging artistic styles that reflected Greece’s newfound independence and its connection to Western European movements.
20th Century Exhibits
Finally, the main building’s collection concludes with exhibits from the 20th century, featuring paintings, sculptures, and other artworks by prominent Greek artists, bringing the narrative of Greek art and history up to more recent times. The breadth and depth of this collection make the main Benaki Museum an essential starting point for understanding the multifaceted tapestry of Greek culture.
Benaki Museum Outposts
Beyond its central location, the Benaki Museum has expanded its reach through a network of satellite galleries and museums, each dedicated to specific collections or themes. This decentralized structure allows the museum to showcase its diverse holdings more effectively and provide more focused visitor experiences.
Benaki Museum of Islamic Art
Benaki Museum of Islamic Art
Among these outposts, the Benaki Museum of Islamic Art stands out as a particularly significant institution, highlighting the rich cultural interactions between Greece and the Islamic world throughout history.
Housed in a beautifully restored neoclassical building in the historic Kerameikos area of Athens, the Benaki Museum of Islamic Art is a testament to the artistic achievements of Islamic civilizations from the 7th to the 19th centuries.
The collection, one of the most important in the world, spans a vast geographical area, including regions from Spain and North Africa to the Middle East, Persia, and India. The exhibits are arranged chronologically and thematically, guiding visitors through the development of Islamic art across different dynasties and cultural centers.
The collection features an impressive array of artifacts, including exquisite ceramics with intricate geometric patterns and calligraphic inscriptions, finely crafted metalwork such as astrolabes and ewers, delicate textiles and carpets, and illuminated manuscripts and miniatures. Highlights include rare examples of early Islamic pottery, intricate Mamluk metalwork, and vibrant Ottoman tiles.
The museum’s setting, within a traditional Athenian mansion with internal courtyards, provides a serene and atmospheric backdrop for viewing these remarkable objects. The Benaki Museum of Islamic Art serves as a vital reminder of the shared history and artistic exchange between Greece and its eastern neighbors, challenging simplistic narratives and fostering a deeper appreciation for the interconnectedness of cultures.
Other Branches
While the Islamic Art Museum is a major outpost, the Benaki Museum complex includes several other notable branches, each contributing to the museum’s mission of preserving and presenting diverse aspects of culture.
The Ghika Gallery, located in the former home of the renowned Greek artist Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghika, is dedicated to 20th-century Greek art, focusing on the intellectual and artistic circles of the period.
The Pireos Street Annex, a modern industrial space, hosts temporary exhibitions, showcasing contemporary art and cultural events. The Benaki Museum of Toys, housed in a charming building in the Faliro area, delights visitors with its extensive collection of toys, games, and childhood artifacts from Greece and around the world.
The Delta House, the former residence of Antonis Benakis’s sister, Penelope Delta, a celebrated children’s author, is another historical property under the museum’s care, often used for cultural events and educational programs.
Collectively, the Benaki Museum and its outposts form a dynamic and multifaceted cultural institution. They not only serve as custodians of invaluable historical and artistic treasures but also play an active role in the cultural life of Athens and Greece. Through its permanent collections, temporary exhibitions, educational programs, and research activities, the Benaki Museum contributes significantly to the understanding and appreciation of Greek culture in its broader historical and geographical context.
It stands as a vital link to the past, a vibrant center for the present, and a beacon for the future of cultural heritage in Greece. A visit to the Benaki Museum complex offers an unparalleled opportunity to delve deep into the soul of Greece and explore its fascinating connections with the wider world.
See Greece suggests what to do on a rainy day in Athens, including its many fine museums, attractions for children, and making use of its cafes and metro system.
Making the Most of a Rainy Day in Athens
Athens, the historic heart of Greece, is renowned for its abundant sunshine, blue skies, and its indoor and outdoor archaeological wonders. Visitors flock from around the globe, eager to walk in the footsteps of ancient philosophers and marvel at structures like the Parthenon bathed in golden light. But what happens when the typically benevolent Greek weather takes a turn, and the rain begins to fall?
But don’t worry! A rainy day in Athens is far from a day lost. Instead, it presents a wonderful opportunity to delve into the city’s equally rich indoor offerings, from world-class museums housing millennia of history and art to unique attractions perfect for families. While slippery marble steps might make exploring the ancient sites less advisable, the capital city transforms, inviting you to discover its cultural depth and cozy corners.
The Athenian Indoor Scene
When the rain starts, Athenians instinctively head indoors, often to the nearest kafeneio (traditional coffee house) or a modern cafe. Adopting this local custom is a perfect starting point for your rainy-day itinerary. The city is brimming with cafes, from grand establishments with high ceilings to small, tucked-away spots, offering a warm refuge from the weather. Sip on a strong Greek coffee, enjoy a pastry, or simply watch the world go by from a dry vantage point. It’s a simple pleasure that connects you to the rhythm of Athenian life, rain or shine.
Beyond the inviting cafes, Athens boasts a wealth of indoor activities that can easily fill a day or more. It’s a chance to shift your focus from the ancient stones of the Acropolis to the treasures preserved within the city’s numerous museums and entertainment venues.
Athens’ World-Class Museums: An Athens Rainy Day Sanctuary
Athens is home to some of the most important museums in the world, offering unparalleled insights into Greek history, art, and culture. A rainy day provides the perfect excuse to spend hours exploring their vast collections at a leisurely pace, without that guilty feeling that you really ought to be outdoors.
The Acropolis Museum
Undoubtedly, the Acropolis Museum is a must-visit, rain or shine. Located just below the Acropolis, this modern architectural marvel is specifically designed to house the artifacts found on the sacred rock and its surrounding slopes. Its layout tells the story of the Acropolis through different historical periods, culminating in the stunning top-floor gallery which houses the surviving Parthenon marbles.
The building itself is a work of art, with glass floors revealing ongoing archaeological excavations beneath your feet. On a rainy day, the museum offers breathtaking, yet dry, views of the Acropolis itself through its panoramic windows, providing a unique perspective on the unique landmark. They often have excellent temporary exhibitions as well, adding another option to your visit.
The National Archaeological Museum is another essential stop and a fantastic option for a rainy day due to its sheer size and the breadth of its collection. As the largest archaeological museum in Greece, it houses over 11,000 exhibits, offering a comprehensive journey through Greek civilization from prehistory to late antiquity. You could easily spend an entire day here, wandering through galleries filled with stunning sculptures like the Mask of Agamemnon, intricate pottery, delicate jewelry, and everyday objects that bring the ancient world to life. It’s a deep dive into the foundations of Western civilization, providing context for the outdoor sites you might visit later (or have already seen).
For a slightly different focus, the Museum of Cycladic Art offers a fascinating look at the ancient cultures of the Aegean, with a particular emphasis on the minimalist marble figurines from the Cycladic islands. These abstract, elegant figures are striking in their modernity and offer a unique perspective on prehistoric Aegean art. The museum also houses collections of ancient Greek art (from the Bronze Age to the Roman period) and Cypriot art, making it a diverse and engaging cultural stop.
Benaki Museum of Islamic Art
The Benaki Museum is unique in that it encompasses a wide range of Greek culture and history across several locations. The main building, the Benaki Museum of Greek Culture, offers a sweeping panorama from prehistoric times through the Ottoman period and into the 20th century, showcasing everything from historical artifacts and traditional costumes to paintings and sculptures. Visiting the Benaki provides a broader understanding of the evolution of Greek identity. Other Benaki branches, like the Museum of Islamic Art or the Ghika Gallery (focusing on 20th-century Greek art), can also be excellent indoor options depending on your interests. See our full page on The Benaki Museum.
For a more niche, but incredibly engaging experience, especially for those interested in ancient innovation, the Museum of Ancient Greek Technology Kostas Kotsanas is a hidden gem. This museum showcases working models of ancient Greek inventions, from automata and astronomical instruments to medical tools and even an ancient alarm clock. It’s highly interactive and provides a tangible link to the ingenuity of ancient Greek minds.
While perhaps not a traditional historical museum, the Museum of Illusions Athens offers a fun and mind-bending experience perfect for escaping the rain. Filled with interactive exhibits, optical illusions, and perplexing installations, it’s a place where perception is challenged and laughter is guaranteed. It’s a popular choice for families and offers great photo opportunities.
A Rainy Day in Athens with Kids
Keeping children entertained on a rainy day in a foreign city can be a challenge, but Athens has several excellent indoor options that cater specifically to younger visitors.
Many of the museums mentioned above are also great for kids, especially with a bit of planning. The Acropolis Museum often runs family-friendly programs and has exhibits designed to engage children, like the gallery with the Caryatids. The interactive nature of the Museum of Ancient Greek Technology Kostas Kotsanas makes it a big hit with inquisitive young minds, allowing them to see and often operate models of ancient machines. And, as mentioned, the Museum of Illusions is pure fun and guaranteed to capture their imagination.
Athens also has a dedicated Children’s Museum. While its target age range is generally younger (preschool to early elementary), it offers hands-on exhibits and play areas designed to stimulate creativity and learning through play. It’s a safe and engaging environment for little ones to burn off some energy indoors.
The Eugenides Foundation Planetarium, located a short taxi or bus ride from the city center, offers immersive dome-screen shows about space and astronomy. This is a fantastic option for older children and teenagers, providing both entertainment and educational value in a comfortable, indoor setting.
Consider looking into indoor play centers or creative workshops. While not as widely advertised as the main attractions, there are often local options available. Some art studios and cultural centers offer drop-in classes or workshops in pottery, painting, or traditional Greek crafts that can be a memorable and dry way to spend an afternoon.
Beyond Museums: Other Indoor Pursuits
Athens offers more than just museums for a rainy day. If you’re looking for some retail therapy, Ermou Street, the main shopping street, is partially covered by awnings in some sections, and department stores or the city’s shopping malls like Golden Hall or The Mall Athens (reachable by metro) offer a completely dry shopping experience with a wide range of international and Greek brands.
For a truly relaxing experience, consider visiting a traditional Greek hammam. These bathhouses offer a rejuvenating escape from the weather, with steam rooms, massages, and other treatments. It’s a chance to unwind and experience a different aspect of Greek culture.
Food lovers can also turn a rainy day into a culinary adventure. Explore the Varvakios Agora, Athens’ bustling central market (parts of which are covered). While it can still be a bit wet around the edges (and around the fish stalls!), the vibrant atmosphere and incredible array of fresh produce, meats, and seafood offer a sensory experience.
Finally, take advantage of the Athens Metro. Many of the central metro stations, such as Syntagma, Monastiraki, and Acropoli, function as mini-museums, displaying archaeological finds discovered during their construction. It’s a practical and fascinating way to travel between indoor destinations while still getting a dose of history.
Practical Tips for a Rainy Day in Athens
When navigating Athens in the rain, comfortable, waterproof shoes are essential, as are an umbrella and a light waterproof jacket. The marble surfaces around the ancient sites and in some parts of the city can become very slippery, so do take special care. Utilize the efficient Athens Metro system to get around; it connects many key areas and attractions and keeps you dry between stops. Taxis are also readily available, though traffic can be heavier when it rains.
In conclusion, while rain might initially seem like a setback in a city famous for its outdoor historical sites, it simply opens the door to exploring the equally captivating indoor world of Athens. From delving into millennia of history and art in its magnificent museums to finding fun and engaging activities for the whole family, a rainy day in Athens is an opportunity to experience the city’s diverse cultural landscape and cozy up in its welcoming indoor spaces. So, grab your umbrella and embrace the chance to see a different, yet equally enchanting, side of this ancient capital.
Eurydice Street, subtitled A Place in Athens, is a rare insight into life in the city beyond what the tourist sees. The author fell in love with Greece as a student, not knowing that years later she would marry a Greek man and go to live with him in his native city, Athens.
The author, who has Russian ancestry but grew up in the UK, soon discovers that living in Athens is very different from visiting it. She very soon learns that punctuality is not a Greek trait. Everyone assumes that everyone else will be late, and as long as you’re all playing by the same rules, it works. Otherwise, if you arrange to meet someone in a restaurant at 9pm and you turn up at 9pm, you’ll be on your own for quite a while.
