Greek retsina is a dry white wine made and drunk all over Greece with a distinctive pine and resin flavour that people usually either love or hate.

For us, when we visit Greece, our first meal is very often kalamari (squid) and a bottle of retsina, perhaps preceded by an ouzo. It’s the very taste of Greece on a plate and in a glass. It tells us we’re back in our beloved Greece at last.  If retsina is an acquired taste, then we acquired it long ago.

What is Greek Retsina?

Retsina is a dry white wine that has been in contact with pine resin to give it its unique flavour. The flavour of retsina is hard to describe, though once you taste it you never forget it. People who don’t like it compare it to turpentine, which we obviously think is unfair. Perhaps they’ve just had some bad retsinas, for as with any wine the quality varies.

It’s crisp, a little lemony, and even though it’s dry there can be a touch of sweetness to it. The overpowering taste is of course the pine resin, however.  Imagine walking through a pine forest on a hot summer day and being able to capture that aroma in a bottle. To us, that is the essence of retsina.

Which Greek Retsina to Choose?

Of course there is more than one type of retsina and flavors vary, depending on the process. One name you see throughout the country is Kourtaki, though there are other best-selling brands including Malamatina and Ampelicious.

Many of the bigger and better winemakers like Gai’a started including a retsina in their line-ups, after a surge in its popularity a few years ago. If you find a bottle of Ritinitis Nobilis from Gai’a on offer anywhere, do try it. These quality retsinas tend to be lighter than the more commercial brands, concentrating more on the wine, and on the citrus taste rather than on being too resiny.

What we like to do is ask if the taverna or restaurant has any local retsinas, so we can try some we’re unlikely to find anywhere else. You don’t usually get draft retsina in the way you get house wines, made by the taverna-owner, as unless you know what you’re doing it’s easy to ruin a good wine by adding too much resin flavour to it.

 Cheap Greek Retsina

Retsina traditionally comes in a 50cl bottle with a screwtop cap on it, though some of the more upscale brands use a conventional 70cl bottle with a cork or plastic stopper. It’s one of the cheapest bottled Greek wines that there is, so it’s very popular with students and those on a budget. Some people like to mix it with soft drinks to make a kind of retsina spritzer, and to make the retsina last longer. You can also mix it with colas, if you like, though we prefer our retsinas straight.

For a long time it was seen as the poor man’s drink, which is one reason it’d had such a poor reputation in the past, but with the 21st-century renaissance in Greek winemaking, people have come to realise that retsina can be made well.

Retsina Rosé

The vast majority of the retsina made in Greece is white, but there are a few rosé retsinas around. They’re not common so you should definitely snap one up if you see it.

Which Grape is Retsina Made From?

Most retsina is made from the savatiano grape, which is the country’s most widely-planted grape. It is drought-resistant, which helps see it through the hot Greek summers, and it makes pretty reliable if not very exciting wine – though it can make good wine, if the winemaker is prepared to put more work in.

Two other Greek grape varieties, the assyrtiko and the rhoditis, are often blended with savatiano, or sometimes used on their own, to produce yet another retsina variation. On the island of Rhodes, the most common grape is the athiri, so you’ll get a slightly different retsina flavour yet again.

On Lemnos, the only white grape grown is the muscat of Alexandria, so it’s used for retsina as well as regular wine. As the grape is normally used for dessert wines because of its aromatic nature, you’ll find retsinas from Lemnos to be more aromatic too.

What to Eat with Greek Retsina?

Retsina goes well with a large number of dishes. Fresh seafood is an obvious choice, though it will also pair well with meats such as roast chicken and roast lamb, because of the way Greeks like to use a lot of herbs and garlic to add flavour to their roast meat dishes. It goes well with dolmades (stuffed vine leaves) and other Greek starters, like fried sardines and anchovies, or even saganaki (fried cheese)

The History of Greek Retsina

So why do the Greeks like wine with a resin taste to it? The tradition goes back over 2,000 years when Greeks stored wine in clay vessels called amphorae, which you can see in almost every archaeological museum in the country. In order to keep them air-tight and keep the wine fresh for longer, Aleppo pine resin plugs were used as they were found to be very effective at keeping the air out.

The resin flavour penetrated the wine on sea voyages, and the Greek sailors found they developed a liking for the taste. It’s thought that the first resinated wines were made in about the 2nd century BC. Even when, probably in the first century AD, the Romans invented the wooden barrel with a wooden bung that proved ideal for storing and transporting wine, the Greeks continued using the resin to flavour their wine because by then they liked it so much.

Today the resin is added during the fermentation period of the grapes. And just as barrels have been around since the Romans, so too has retsina – and we’ll drink to that. Yia Mas!

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See Greece explains the long history of the Greek dish of dolmades, or stuffed vine leaves, which goes back to ancient Greece, and provides a recipe.

Dolmades, a popular Greek dish, have a surprisingly rich history that dates back to ancient times. These stuffed grape leaves, known as “dolmades” in Greek, are part of a broader family of dishes referred to as “dolma” or “dolmeh” in various Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisines. Here’s a brief history of dolmades.

History of Dolmades

1. Ancient Roots: The concept of stuffing grape leaves and other vegetables can be traced back to the ancient Middle East, particularly in regions like Persia and the Levant. The technique of using vine leaves as wrappers became popular due to their abundance.
2. Greek Influence: Dolmades are a significant part of Greek cuisine. The Greek version of dolmades often features a filling of rice, herbs, and sometimes ground meat, although vegetarian versions are common. These delicious morsels have been enjoyed for centuries in Greece.
3. Ottoman Influence: During the Ottoman Empire’s rule over Greece, culinary exchanges occurred, leading to the incorporation of ingredients like rice and various spices into the dish. This Ottoman influence can be seen in many Greek dishes, including dolmades.
4. Variations: While the basic idea of dolmades involves grape leaves stuffed with a flavorful filling, there are numerous regional and personal variations. Some may use minced meat, while others prefer a vegetarian filling. The filling can include rice, herbs, onions, and spices, resulting in a delightful mix of flavors.

Recipe for Greek Dolmades:

Here’s a classic recipe for Greek Dolmades:

Ingredients:

• 50-60 grape leaves, blanched and stems removed
• 1 cup of rice
• 1/2 cup of olive oil
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 1/4 cup of fresh dill, chopped
• 1/4 cup of fresh mint, chopped
• Juice of 2 lemons
• Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions:

1. In a pot, heat half of the olive oil and sauté the chopped onion until translucent.
2. Add the rice and continue to cook for a few minutes, stirring.
3. Add the dill, mint, lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Mix well and let it cool.
4. Place a grape leaf flat on a work surface, shiny side down. Add a spoonful of the filling at the bottom of the leaf and fold the sides in, then roll it tightly into a small parcel.
5. Arrange the dolmades in a wide pan, seam side down. Drizzle with the remaining olive oil and add enough water to cover them.
6. Place a heavy plate or lid on top of the dolmades to prevent them from unraveling during cooking.
7. Simmer over low heat for about 45 minutes or until the rice is tender and the grape leaves are soft.
8. Let them cool, then serve with a squeeze of lemon juice.

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Greek alcoholic drinks include distinctly Greek drinks such as ouzo, Metaxa, retsina, raki, tsikoudia and tsipouro, but also Greek wines and Greek beers.

Ouzo is a very popular aperitif. It’s an aniseed-based drink a little like pastis, raki, or arak. It is served neat in a tall glass with an accompanying glass of water. Some people prefer their ouzo neat and will sip at the water, but the most common way to drink it is to pour some water into the ouzo, till you get the taste that you prefer. Adding water turns the ouzo milky. It’s typically about 37-40% ABV so is as strong as other spirits like vodka and gin, but it’s got a very more-ish taste and is very refreshing in a hot climate so it’s easy to overdo it.

Beer is very popular in Greece and many Greeks drink beer with meals rather than wine. Two of the main Greek brands to try are Fix and Mythos, and if you like light beers brands like Amstel and Heineken are also widely available. For a little variety there are also now an increasing number of craft breweries around the country, so ask if the bar or restaurant has any local beers they can recommend.

Greek wine has improved by leaps and bounds over the years, helped by increased demand from visitors and also young Greek winemakers travelling around the world and bringing new skills and techniques home with them. Long gone are the days when your only choices were Retsina and Domestica (red or white and nicknamed Domestos).

House wines can vary in quality, but in some tavernas it really will be house wine, made by the owner in the family’s own vineyards. In smarter places the wine lists will naturally be more sophisticated. Familiar grape varieties like cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay do grow in Greece but the country also has a wide range of indigenous grape varieties with unusual names like agiorgitiko and roditis. Be adventurous, and don’t be afraid to ask what a particular wine is like, if you don’t know the grape variety.

Retsina is a peculiarly Greek white (or occasionally rosé) wine which has a slight resiny flavour. Some people love it, some people never get a taste for it, but you should certainly try it to find out which camp you’re in. The resin taste is said to have begun some 2,000 years ago when wine was stored in clay amphora, which were sealed at the top with Aleppo resin. This acted as a very effective seal, good at keeping wine fresh, but it did imbue the wine with a slight resin flavour.

The Greeks developed a liking for this distinctive wine. Even when it became possible to store wine in wooden barrels (which needed no resin stop and gave wines a different taste), the Greeks still wanted their retsina and the flavour was added in different ways. Retsina has a reputation as a ‘rough’ wine, not very sophisticated, but today’s winemakers have reinvented retsina and there are some remarkably subtle retsinas available. The name ‘Retsina’ is acknowledged by the European Union as a PDO (Protected Domain of Origin). See our full page about Greek retsina.

Metaxa is a common after-dinner drink, which people refer to as Greek brandy, though this isn’t strictly the case. It’s a good way to convey what kind of a drink it is. It was originally referred to as Greek cognac, until cognac-makers came up with a definition of cognac, so Metaxa (which is the family name of the original maker) described itself instead as a brandy, which wasn’t then strictly defined. Later, though, the rules for calling yourself brandy were laid down, and Metaxa didn’t meet the requirements so it became… just Metaxa.

In fact in international competitions Metaxa is in a class of its own as it doesn’t fit into any official categories. It’s a dark spirit that’s distilled at the Metaxa Distillery in Athens, then blended with wine from Samos grapes, with added herbs and other secret ingredients. One known ingredient is rose petals, as someone once observed them being delivered to the distillery, so that little secret was out! It isn’t hard to tell, though, as Metaxa does have a fresh and floral taste as part of its overall complex flavour. Think of it as a brandy/liqueur/digestif kind of drink that is distinctly Greek, and do try a glass after dinner.

It’s common to leave a restaurant/taverna after a meal and move on to a bar or café for a Metaxa (or two) and maybe a dessert or some fresh fruit. Metaxa comes at different prices and, naturally, different qualities. The most common are 5-star, 7-star, and 12-star, with a few special (and expensive) limited editions. The more stars, the better, is a good rule-of-thumb, although even 5-star Metaxa is a delicious and smooth drink. Try a Metaxa cocktail, too.

Raki or tsikoudia is the after-dinner drink of choice on Crete, where it originated. It’s a spirit distilled from the bits of the grape that are left over from the wine-making process. Waste not, want not. It’s so common that many tavernas and restaurants give customers a complimentary glass at the end of a meal. Quality and strength varies enormously and it can be anything from a standard 40% ABV (like ouzo) to an eye-watering 65%. Our advice is knock it back and hope for the best!

Tsipouro is a similar drink to raki that is made widely on the Greek mainland, the main difference being that it rarely exceeds 40-45% ABV in strength, and doesn’t get up to the high-octane alcohol content that it can do on Crete.

Rakomelo is a drink made in several places in Greece but notably on Crete, which is where we met a rakomelo-maker.

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See Greece brings you the story of Greek stifado, a classic dish, with recipes for beef, rabbit, octopus and a vegetarian option, with wine pairings for each.

Greek Stifado: A Rich and Aromatic Stew with a Deep History

History of Greek Stifado

Greek stifado (στιφάδο) is a slow-cooked stew known for its rich, sweet-and-savory flavor, tender meat, and an abundance of small onions (or shallots). The dish has roots in ancient and medieval Greek cuisine, with influences from Venetian and Ottoman cooking.

The name stifado likely comes from the Italian stufato, meaning “stew.” During the Venetian occupation of parts of Greece (13th–18th centuries), many Italian culinary terms and techniques were adopted into Greek cooking. The dish evolved further under Ottoman rule, incorporating spices like cinnamon and cloves, which were commonly used in Middle Eastern cuisine.

Traditionally, stifado was made with game meat, such as rabbit or hare, but today, beef is the most common choice. Some regional variations use octopus, lamb, or even wild boar. The key characteristic of stifado is the use of pearl onions or shallots, which caramelize during cooking, adding a deep sweetness to the dish.

Recipe: Classic Beef Stifado

Ingredients (Serves 4–6)
– 1 kg (2.2 lbs) beef (chuck or shoulder), cut into large chunks
– 500g (1 lb) small pearl onions or shallots, peeled
– 3 garlic cloves, minced
– 400g (14 oz) canned tomatoes or fresh ripe tomatoes, chopped
– 1 cup red wine
– 2 tbsp red wine vinegar
– 3 tbsp olive oil
– 1 bay leaf
– 1 cinnamon stick
– 3–4 whole cloves
– 1 tsp dried oregano
– 1 tsp sugar (optional, to balance acidity)
– Salt and black pepper to taste
– Fresh parsley for garnish

Instructions
1. Prepare the Onions:
– Blanch the pearl onions in boiling water for 1–2 minutes to make peeling easier. Drain and peel them, keeping them whole.
2. Brown the Meat:- Heat olive oil in a large, heavy pot (like a Dutch oven) over medium-high heat.
– Pat the beef dry and season with salt and pepper. Brown the meat in batches to avoid overcrowding, ensuring a good sear on all sides. Remove and set aside.
3. Sauté the Aromatics:
– In the same pot, add the garlic and sauté for 30 seconds until fragrant.
– Deglaze with red wine and vinegar, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom.
4. Simmer the Stew:
– Return the beef to the pot. Add tomatoes, bay leaf, cinnamon stick, cloves, oregano, and sugar (if using).
– Pour in enough water (or beef stock) to just cover the meat. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer for 1.5 hours.
5. Add the Onions:
– After the first 1.5 hours, add the peeled onions. Continue simmering uncovered for another 30–45 minutes, or until the meat is fork-tender and the sauce has thickened.
6. Serve:
– Discard the bay leaf, cinnamon stick, and cloves.
– Adjust seasoning if needed and garnish with fresh parsley.
– Serve with crusty bread, mashed potatoes, or orzo pasta.

Alternative Recipe: Rabbit Stifado

For a more traditional version, rabbit can be used instead of beef.

Ingredients:
– 500g pearl onions
– 3 garlic cloves
– 1 cup red wine
– 2 tbsp red wine vinegar
– 1 tsp allspice berries
– 1 cinnamon stick
– 400g chopped tomatoes
– Olive oil, salt, pepper

Method:
Follow the same steps as beef stifado, but reduce cooking time slightly (rabbit cooks faster than beef). Simmer for 1 hour before adding onions, then cook for another 30 minutes.

Vegetarian Stifado (Mushroom & Eggplant Version)

Ingredients (Serves 4)
500g mushrooms (cremini or wild), halved
1 large eggplant, cubed
500g pearl onions, peeled
3 garlic cloves, minced
400g chopped tomatoes
1 cup vegetable broth
½ cup red wine (optional)
2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
1 bay leaf
1 cinnamon stick
1 tsp smoked paprika
3 tbsp olive oil
Salt, pepper, and fresh herbs (thyme or parsley)

Instructions
Roast Eggplant: Toss eggplant with olive oil, salt, and roast at 200°C (400°F) for 20 minutes.
Sauté Mushrooms & Onions: In a pot, cook onions until soft, add mushrooms, and brown.
Deglaze & Simmer: Add garlic, wine (if using), vinegar, tomatoes, broth, and spices.
Combine & Cook: Stir in roasted eggplant and simmer for 30–40 minutes until flavors meld.
Serve: Garnish with fresh herbs and enjoy with feta or creamy polenta.

Octopus Stifado (A Coastal Delight)

Ingredients (Serves 4)
1 kg (2.2 lbs) octopus, cleaned and cut into pieces
500g pearl onions or shallots
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 cup red wine
2 tbsp red wine vinegar
400g chopped tomatoes
1 bay leaf
1 cinnamon stick
½ tsp allspice berries
3 tbsp olive oil
Salt, pepper, and fresh parsley

Instructions
Tenderize Octopus: Simmer octopus in water for 20–30 minutes until slightly tender. Drain and set aside.
Sauté Onions & Garlic: In olive oil, cook onions until golden, then add garlic.
Deglaze & Simmer: Add wine, vinegar, tomatoes, and spices. Return octopus to the pot.
Cook Slowly: Simmer for 45–60 minutes until octopus is tender and sauce thickens.
Serve: Garnish with parsley and serve with feta cheese and crusty bread.

Wine Pairings for Greek Stifado: The Perfect Matches

The rich, aromatic flavors of stifado—whether made with beef, octopus, or vegetables—call for wines that complement its sweet, tangy, and spiced notes. Greek wines are an excellent choice, but international varieties also work beautifully. Below are the best pairings for each type of stifado.

1. Beef or Rabbit Stifado – Bold Reds for a Hearty Stew

Beef stifado’s deep, savory flavors and tender meat pair best with full-bodied red wines that have enough tannins and acidity to balance the dish’s richness.

Best Greek Wines:
Agiorgitiko (Nemea) – A velvety red with dark fruit flavors (black cherry, plum) and a hint of spice.
Xinomavro (Naoussa, Amyndeon) – A structured, high-acid red with tomato and olive notes, perfect for tomato-based stews.

International Alternatives:
Cabernet Sauvignon – Bold with dark fruit and a touch of oak.
Syrah/Shiraz – Peppery and rich, enhancing the cinnamon and cloves in stifado.
Chianti (Sangiovese) – High acidity cuts through the richness, with cherry and herbal notes.

Why They Work: The tannins in these wines soften the fat in the beef, while their acidity balances the sweetness of the caramelized onions.

2. Octopus Stifado – Medium-Bodied Reds & Crisp Whites

Octopus stifado is lighter than beef but still rich, benefiting from wines with bright acidity and a touch of earthiness.

Best Greek Wines:
Mavrodaphne (Patras, Cephalonia) – A slightly sweet red with fig and chocolate notes, balancing the octopus’s brininess.
Assyrtiko (Santorini) – A mineral-driven white with citrus and saline notes, great for seafood.

International Alternatives:
Pinot Noir – Light-bodied with red fruit and earthy undertones.
Beaujolais (Gamay) – Juicy and fresh, enhancing the dish’s sweetness.
Vermentino or Fiano – Crisp whites with herbal notes, pairing well with tomato-based seafood.

Why They Work: Lighter reds and structured whites complement the octopus without overpowering it, while their acidity balances the tomatoes and onions.

3. Vegetarian Stifado (Mushroom & Eggplant) – Earthy Reds & Aromatic Whites

The earthy, umami-rich flavors of mushroom and eggplant stifado call for medium-bodied reds or aromatic whites that enhance its depth.

Best Greek Wines:
Limniona (Thessaly) – A rare Greek red with floral and red fruit notes, great for vegetarian dishes.
Savatiano (Attica, aged in oak) – A textured white with honey and nutty flavors.

International Alternatives:
Grenache/Garnacha – Fruity yet earthy, matching mushrooms well.
Viognier – Aromatic white with stone fruit and floral notes.
Rosé (Provence style) – Dry and crisp, balancing the dish’s sweetness.

Why They Work: Earthy reds mirror the mushrooms’ umami, while aromatic whites lift the dish’s sweetness and spices.

Bonus: Dessert Pairings for Stifado

If serving stifado as part of a multi-course meal, a sweet wine can be a delightful follow-up:

Muscat of Samos – A Greek dessert wine with orange blossom and honey notes.
Vin Santo – Nutty and caramelized, perfect with baklava or galaktoboureko.

Final Tip: Serving Temperature Matters

Red wines: Serve slightly below room temperature (16–18°C / 60–65°F).
Whites & Rosés: Serve chilled (8–12°C / 46–54°F).

Conclusion

Greek stifado is a dish steeped in history, blending Mediterranean and Middle Eastern influences into a hearty, aromatic stew. The slow cooking process allows the flavors to meld beautifully, with the onions becoming sweet and tender. Whether made with beef, rabbit, or another protein, stifado remains a beloved comfort food in Greece, perfect for family gatherings and cold-weather meals.

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