The Temple of Bassae in Messenia in the Peloponnese of Greece is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most important archaeological sites in Greece.
The Temple of Apollo Epikourios at Bassae in the Peloponnese
The Temple of Bassae (or Vassae) is also known as the Temple of Apollo Epicurius. The name Bassae is an Ancient Greek word meaning ‘the little vale in the rocks’. It was the first place in Greece to be included on UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites, even ahead of the Acropolis.
Bassae is one of the least visited of the many important archaeological sites in the Peloponnese. It’s in a remote setting in Messenia, about a 20-minute winding drive south of the mountain village of Andritsaina. It’s a rugged part of the country, and visiting here is real Greek travel. We spent the night in Andritsaina and drove straight to the Temple of Bassae after breakfast. It is a truly remarkable place.
Andritsaina
Andritsaina is somewhere between a town and a village, with a population of about 2,000 people. Although it’s not on the well-trodden tourist trail, it does have a few small hotels and tavernas. It’s well worth a night’s stay before or after visiting Bassae, for some hearty mountain food, and some great views.
Andritsaina stands at an elevation of 705 m (2,313 ft), with the Temple of Bassae even higher at 1,131 m (3,711 ft). It’s only a few miles from Andritsaina to the temple.
Map (c) Google Maps
Visiting the Temple of Bassae
What’s unusual about the temple is that it is considered so precious that a huge protective covering has been erected over it, to shield it from the elements, while excavation and conservation work is carried out. It’s a very strange experience, as from the outside it looks a bit like a circus tent, and you feel privileged to pop your head inside and see the temple itself.
It’s also a very dramatic experience, and the intimacy of being inside the tent with the temple makes the well-preserved building seem all the more impressive and imposing.
History of the Temple of Bassae
The temple was built in the 5th century BC and dedicated to Apollo Epikourios (Apollo the Helper). It’s believed to have been designed by the architect Iktinos, who was one of the two architects responsible for the Parthenon in Athens.
The temple was used up until about the 4th or 5th century AD, when the Romans closed what they regarded as pagan temples in Greece. It’s unusual in that it has examples of all three styles of Greek columns: Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian. In fact the Corinthian capital here is the oldest known example in Greece.
As with the Parthenon in Athens, the temple was plundered by the British, including the magnificent frieze. This is now on display in the British Museum in London, alongside the Parthenon Marbles. Is it too much to hope that one day it will be returned and put back in its right place on the Temple of Bassae?
Architectural Significance
Three Classical Orders: It is unique among ancient Greek temples for incorporating all three classical architectural orders: Doric (for the exterior peristyle), Ionic (for the interior columns), and the earliest known surviving example of a Corinthian capital (on a single column in the center of the interior).
Architect: The temple is traditionally attributed to Iktinos, the famous architect who also designed the Parthenon in Athens, though this attribution is sometimes debated by modern scholars.
Unusual Orientation: Unlike most Greek temples that are oriented east-west, the Temple of Bassae is oriented north-south, believed by some to be for cultic reasons, such as aligning with the summer solstice sunrise.
Design: Built between approximately 420 and 400 BC, it combines archaic features (such as its elongated shape with a 6×15 column ratio) with the serenity of the Classical Doric style and daring innovations, marking a turning point in temple architecture.
The See Greece guide to exploring Evia, covering its most beautiful towns and villages.
Evia
There are lots of pretty towns and villages to explore on Evia, and here in alphabetical order are some of the places worth seeking out, in addition to the capital Chalkida and the important archaeological site of Ancient Eretria.
Exploring Evia
Cape Artemisio
One of the finest exhibits in the National Archaeological Museum in Athens was hauled from the sea here off the northern corner of Evia. The stunning bronze statue of Poseidon was found by local fishermen in 1928, highly appropriate as he was the God of the Sea who lived on Evia.
In 480BC the waters here were churned and tossed as it was the site of the Battle of Artemisium, when the Persian fleet of King Xerxes defeated the Greeks before moving on to take Eretria, only to be finally defeated at Marathon.
Karystos
Almost at the southern tip of Evia, Karystos is an attractive town of mainly modern origin, having been built up only after the War of Independence. The first King of modern Greece, Otto, liked the location so much that he modestly renamed the town after himself, Othonoupolis, and decided it would be the new capital of Greece.
He invited a Bavarian architect to create a grand town plan of long, wide streets lined with mansions, but not long after this first stage was completed, Otto was gone and Karystos reclaimed its name and kept the streets. Today it is one of the destination points for the ferries from Rafina on the Greek mainland, making it rather busy, especially in summer, but in an appealing, lively way.
Dominating the town is the Castello Rosso, a massive medieval fortress that looks over modern Karystos from the site of the ancient acropolis. Nothing much remains inside the fortress, which gets it name from its ruddy-coloured walls, but it gives good views back down over the town and further inland to Mt Ochi (see below). Karystos also has an Archaeological Museum worth visiting.
Kymi
Kymi on Evia
Kymi is a town halfway along Evia’s northern coast. There’s a Folklore Museum here, which has fascinating displays on local life. There’s an extensive collection of local costumes and embroideries, and much of the fascination comes from a large collection of old photographs showing life in the last century in this quiet rural place, set among vineyards and orchards.
Its sleepy nature and remote location belie its rich past, evident from the fine 19th-century mansions which line some of the streets, the wealth coming from a combination of local silk production and international maritime trade.
Kymi also has a lovely church dedicated to the Panagia Koimisis, containing a very rare 7th-century icon of the Madonna and Child, while north of the town is the dramatically situated clifftop monastery of Moni Sotira, built in the 17th century and still inhabited today by a small number of nuns. Note that men are not admitted.
Limni
Limni is a fairly quiet fishing village, which is starting to wake up to the tourist trade, but it lacks the good beaches of Loutra Gialtron, Loutra Aidipsou and some other Evia resorts. For the moment, then, it remains a low-key Greek village of whitewashed red-tiled houses, boats bobbing in the harbour, 19th-century mansions built from past maritime wealth, and a relaxing waterfront with cafes and tavernas.
More energetic visitors make the 8km (5 miles) walk to the Byzantine monastery of Moni Galataki, the oldest on Evia, with remains going back to the 13th century though most buildings date from the 16th. Its church has frescoes that also date from the 16th century, several of which have survived in vivid detail, including a Last Judgement so frightening it would turn anyone onto the path of righteousness.
The monastery was deserted for many years but reinstated as a convent in the 1940s and is still inhabited by nuns today. There are no formal opening hours but anyone arriving in the mornings or early afternoon will be welcome to look around, if respectably dressed.
The Rocky Coast of Evia
Loutra Gialtron and Loutra Adipsou
At the remote northwestern end of Evia is a beautiful wide bay surrounded by wooded slopes, with spa resorts sitting on either side of the mouth. The smaller Loutra Gialtron is a pretty harbour town with an old windmill and a decent beach, and with access to even better beaches out towards the extreme northwestern tip of the island.
Across the bay, Loutra Aidipsou is the largest spa town in Greece and renowned for its sulphur springs, bringing visitors flocking here every summer at the prospect of being made young and beautiful. It is not the best time of year to turn up without accommodation booked.
At other times, the summer demands of visitors means that there is ample accommodation (many hotels have their own hot springs) and you can enjoy its excellent beach and the picturesque charm of a working fishing harbour, and the prospect of making day trips to the Sporades.
Mount Ochi
At 1,398m (4,587ft), Mt Ochi is the highest point in the south of Evia and is surrounded by lovely villages, both inland on its slopes and on the surrounding coasts. A popular hill village is Mýli, which overlooks Karystos near the Castello Rosso and is the setting-off point for those wishing to climb the mountain. This is a serious 4-hour hike, for which you will need to be fit and have a good map or guide, but your rewards will include exceptional views and the sight at the top of one of Évvioa’s so-called Dragon Houses.
These stone buildings are also found near Stýra, and named because it is thought that only dragons could have transported the huge stones to the high locations where the houses are built. Their purpose is not known for sure, but it is thought they may have been miniature temples for the worship of Poseidon, who made Evia his home.
Evia Sunset
Ochthonia
The hill village of Ochthonia is an atmospheric place, its prosperous past hinted at by the Neo-Classical mansions and ruined towers that can be seen as you walk the streets, and by the remains of the Frankish castle above the village. Down below on the coast are long stretches of sandy beach which are rather too remote to attract crowds in large numbers, so are good places to aim for if you like to sunbathe in seclusion.
Prokopi
Prokopi is another mountain village, this one overlooked by the highest point in the north of the island, Mt Kandili (1,361m/4,465ft). Our drive in northern Evia includes Prokopi, where it’s well worth breaking the journey. Many pilgrims do so in order to visit the church of Agios Ioannis o Rosos, which contain the remains of St John the Russian, who was in fact a Ukrainian.
He served in the Tsar’s army, was captured by the Turks, made a slave and then killed by the Turks in the town of Prokopi in central Turkey. With the exchange of populations in 1923, his devoted followers brought his bones to Greece, and they named their new settlement Prokopi and built a church to house the relics. You may see Russian Orthodox visitors here too, as St John was also canonised by the Russian Orthodox faith, in 1962.
Steni
The mountain village of Steni has developed into quite a thriving tourist town, brought on by its location at the foot of Evia’s highest point, Mt Dirfys (1,740m/5,709ft). The peak naturally gives breathtaking views over the island, out to the Aegean and back towards the Greek mainland. It is also relatively accessible, provided you are reasonably fit, and it’s a good day out to take the four-hour walk to the summit and enjoy a picnic lunch at the top.
You will need a good map, but the walk begins at the end of the main road that runs through Steni, which peters out into a car park after about 3km (2 miles). Follow the track, watching out for cars as some people prefer to drive up as far as they can go. Look for the turning to the left which is clearly signposted: Fountain of Liri Refuge. From the Refuge another track marked with dabs of red paint on rocks leads in a straightforward if demanding manner to the summit.
Evia Horses
Styra
On Evia’s west coast the port of Nea Stýra (New Styra) has ferry connections with Rafina on the mainland, and has developed into a small holiday resort especially popular with Athenians, who can reach it very easily. It has a lovely, long sandy beach, which will be packed in midsummer, but at other times it would make a convenient base for a few days.
Climb inland for 5km (3.1 miles) and you reach the hill village of Styra itself, a quiet place most noted for having several examples of Evia’s ‘dragon houses’. These are just outside the town and are thought to date from the 6th century B.C. The fanciful theory that the vast stone blocks must have been transported by dragons is very likely to have had a more prosaic explanation in reality: that the stones were carried by slave labour.
See Greece’s guide to Ancient Eretria, the most important historical site on Evia, a city that at one time fought with Chalkida for dominance of the island.
Eretria on Evia
Eretria, a coastal gem on the Greek island of Evia, offers a rich tapestry of ancient history, stunning archaeological remains, and a museum that brings its storied past to life—making it a must-visit for history lovers and curious travelers alike.
📍 Eretria: Location and Setting
Eretria Location Map (c) Google Maps
Eretria is located on the western coast of Evia, directly across the South Euboean Gulf from the region of Attica. It’s about a half-hour drive from Chalkida. This strategic position made Eretria a vital maritime hub in antiquity, connecting it to the Greek mainland and the broader Mediterranean world. Today, the modern town of Eretria sits atop the ruins of its ancient predecessor, offering visitors a unique blend of seaside charm and archaeological intrigue.
🏛️ Historical Overview
Eretria on Evia
Prehistoric and Early Settlements
The earliest traces of human activity in Eretria date back to the Neolithic period (3500–3000 BC), with pottery shards and stone tools discovered on the Acropolis and surrounding plains. During the Early Helladic period (3000–2000 BC), a small settlement emerged on the plain, featuring granaries and kilns. However, flooding forced inhabitants to relocate to the Acropolis during the Middle Helladic period (2000–1600 BC). By the Late Helladic period (1600–1100 BC), the site was sparsely populated and likely served as an observation post.
Archaic to Classical Period
Eretria truly flourished during the Greek Dark Ages and Archaic period, emerging as a powerful city-state alongside its rival, Chalcis. The city played a pivotal role in the Greek colonization movement, founding colonies in Italy (Pithekoussai and Cumae), Halkidiki, and the Black Sea region. Eretria’s influence extended to the development of the Greek alphabet, adapted from Phoenician script around the 8th century BC—a foundational moment for Western literacy.
Eretria’s military and political might were evident in its control over nearby islands like Andros, Tenos, and Ceos, and its involvement in the Lelantine War against Chalcis. The city also contributed ships to the Trojan War, as mentioned by Homer in the Iliad.
Persian and Roman Destruction
In 490 BC, Eretria was destroyed by the Persians during the Greco-Persian Wars. Though it recovered, the city faced further devastation in 198 BC when it was plundered by the Romans, and again in 87 BC during the Mithridatic Wars, leading to its decline.
🏺 Archaeological Site Highlights
Eretria on Evia
The ancient city of Eretria lies beneath the modern town, with many structures excavated and partially restored:
Sanctuary of Apollo Daphniforos: This central temple complex dates from the 8th to 5th century BC, with preserved foundations and sculptural fragments from its Doric temple (520–490 BC).
Monumental Fountain: Located southeast of the temple, this 4th-century BC structure features a colonnade and served as a public water source.
City Walls: Remnants of Eretria’s classical fortifications (4th century BC) still trace the coastline and descend from the Acropolis.
Heroon: A Geometric-period burial site (750–680 BC) near the western gate, containing aristocratic graves and votive offerings.
House with Mosaics: A luxurious 4th-century BC residence showcasing intricate floor mosaics, located along the city’s main artery.
Theater: Built in the 5th and 4th centuries BC, the theater is one of Eretria’s most iconic landmarks, offering insight into ancient performance culture.
Sanctuaries and Public Buildings: These include the Temple of Dionysus, sanctuary of Isis, Thesmophorium, and sanctuary of Artemis, as well as gymnasiums, baths, and banquet halls.
Macedonian Tombs: These elaborate burial structures reflect the city’s Hellenistic period and its connections to Macedonian culture.
🖼️ Archaeological Museum of Eretria
Located near the excavation site, the Archaeological Museum of Eretria is a treasure trove of artifacts that span millennia. It houses finds from Eretria itself, as well as nearby sites like Lefkadi and Amarynthos.
Museum Highlights:
Polychrome Antefixes: Decorative roof tiles featuring mythological motifs, including Gorgons.
Statues and Sculptures: Notably, a statue of a youth from the gymnasium, now displayed in the National Archaeological Museum in Athens.
Pottery and Votive Offerings: Items from domestic and funerary contexts, including cups, figurines, and ceremonial vessels.
Architectural Fragments: Columns, capitals, and sculptural reliefs from temples and public buildings.
Funerary Artifacts: Grave goods from aristocratic burials, including jewelry, weapons, and inscriptions.
The museum provides context for the ruins and helps visitors visualize the grandeur of ancient Eretria.
🧭 Tips for Visiting Eretria
Visiting Eretria is both educational and scenic. Here are some tips to make the most of your trip:
Best Time to Visit: Spring and early autumn offer pleasant weather and fewer crowds.
Getting There: Eretria is accessible via ferry from Oropos on the mainland or by car from Chalkis, the capital of Evia.
Local Attractions: Beyond the archaeological site, enjoy Eretria’s beaches, cafés, and waterfront promenade.
Guided Tours: Consider joining a tour led by experts from the Swiss School of Archaeology, which has been excavating the site since 1964.
Nearby Sites: Visit Amarynthos, known for its sanctuary of Artemis, and Lefkandi, another important prehistoric site.
Dining and Accommodation: Eretria offers a range of traditional tavernas, boutique hotels, and guesthouses with views of the gulf.
🌟 Why Eretria Matters
Eretria’s legacy is woven into the fabric of Greek civilization—from its role in colonization and alphabet development to its architectural and artistic achievements. Though often overshadowed by more famous sites like Athens or Delphi, Eretria offers a quieter, more intimate encounter with antiquity.
Whether you’re a history buff, a curious traveler, or someone seeking a scenic escape, Eretria delivers a compelling blend of culture, heritage, and natural beauty.
Modern Eretria
Eretria on Evia
In the centre of the modern town can be seen the foundations of the Temple of Apollo, and the site of the agora. The modern town now sprawls along the coast as one of the island’s main resorts, given its proximity to Chalkida, but while the remains of the ancient city ought to be seen, the modern town is not the most appealing place to stay on Evia. There are far lovelier towns and resorts all around the island.
This drive exploring northern Evia takes you from the busy town of Chalkida out into the mountains for a glimpse of life in the rugged north of the island.
Chalkida Bridge to Evia
Assuming that you enter Chalkida from the mainland across the bridge, keep on the main road through the town centre, turning left onto route 44 and then right onto route 77, marked for Mantoudi.
Note that when you are outside the main town the road signs are mostly written only in Greek, so you need to be careful to follow directions and at the very least have a copy of the Greek alphabet with you, so that you can hopefully stop and make sense of the Greek place names.
If asking directions, stress is all-important in the pronunciation of Greek. The stressed syllable is usually the penultimate one, and if you get the stress wrong the listener may not understand, even though you think your pronunciation is reasonably close.
North from Chalkida
Chalkida on Evia
The road north out of Chalkida takes you through some salt marshes and along the coast with lovely views across to the mainland. After about 12km (7.5 miles) look for the right fork on a local road marked for Psakhna, which you reach after 2km (1.2 miles). Psakhna is an attractive market town, worth a brief stop as the main church has some 13th century frescoes.
Into the Mountains
Continue on from Psakhna by following the signs for Prokopi, which takes you back to route 77 with Prokopi being 30km (18.6 miles) further on. The road to it is a marvellous drive through olive groves and later up into pine forests as the scenery becomes more mountainous. There are now even more spectacular views back to the mainland, as well as vistas over Evia itself, showing how green it is especially in the spring and early summer. For a time the road runs alongside a river, through the narrow and wooded ravine in the Kleisoura Valley, before reaching Prokopi.
Evia
Prokopi
Prokopi is an essential stop, a village which built up after the arrival of Greeks forced out of Turkey during the population exchanges in 1923. Its church of Agios Ioannis o Rosos (St John the Russian) contains the bones of that saint, brought from Turkey. Prokopi is also the home of the Candili Centre, a base for arts and crafts holidays, retreats and seminars, based in the estate of Edward Noel, a British relative of Lord Byron. It is worth visiting just to see the house and grounds, even if you have no time to stay and join one of their holidays.
Mandouli
From Prokopi continue on route 77 following the signs for Limni and Mandoudi, which you reach after 8km (5 miles). Mandoudi is a beautiful village of whitewashed houses, about 1km (0.6 miles) off to the right of the main road. Don’t hesitate to take the slight detour to stop off here for a while and relax in its pretty main square.
Limni
Go back to route 77 and turn right, continuing on, following the signs for Strofylia and Limni. The road takes you through more agricultural land, past rows of vines, bent under the weight of the grapes in the autumn. In Strofylia the road forks and you follow the left fork, which passes through a few more hill villages until you drop down suddenly towards the pretty little coastal village of Limni where a good seafood lunch or supper awaits.
Evia Sunset
If you’re driving back to Chalkida from Limni, it should take you about 90 minutes without stops.
The Dadia Forest Reserve in Thrace is famous for its wildlife, especially raptors, with accommodation and information available at the Dadia Ecotourism Centre.
Sign at the Dadia Forest Reserve
Head north-east from the Evros Delta and you will reach the small town of Féres, which would make a good base for exploring the area to the north of here, the 32,500-hectare Dadia Forest Reserve. Set in the Evros Valley and overshadowed by the Evros Mountains, this is another scenically splendid area of Greece and mostly visited by those with an interest in its wide range of wildlife. It’s especially noted for the fact that 36 of Europe’s 38 species of predatory birds can be found here.
Dadia Forest Reserve Information Centre
There is an information centre in the forest, at the Dadia Ecotourism Centre, reached from near the village of Likófi. At the centre you will naturally find a lot of information about the flora and the fauna of the Reserve, which is especially noted for its rare birds of prey. At the centre you can also get advice on exploring the Reserve, which can be done by way of an organised tour van, which goes into the areas where cars are banned, or on foot.
There are two main footpaths to be followed, and these are well-marked. One leads to the highest point in the Reserve, at 520 meters (1706ft), and the other to a hide which looks out over the Mavrorema Canyon, giving chance for visitors to see some of the raptors as they soar on the thermals that rise out of the canyon.
Golden Eagle
In addition to the eagles and vultures, other species seen here include the lanner falcon, black kite, goshawk, Levant sparrowhawk, honey buzzard and the increasingly rare black stork, although there are only a few of these in the forest.
Crested Goshawk
Accommodation in the Dadia Forest
It is quite possible to stay in the Reserve, as there are 20 rooms available at the Dadia Ecotourism Centre, which also has a restaurant and café. You would need to book ahead as it gets full at busy periods such as migration times in spring and autumn. There is a café nearby, and more eating options and shops in the village of Dadiá, about 1km (1/2 mile) away.
See Greece visits and tours the Manousakis Winery on Crete with a wine-tasting and a chance to buy their tsikoudia, sea salt, olive oil and other goodies.
A twenty-minute drive southwest from Hania brings us to the delightful Manousakis Winery. Their name will be more familiar to you when you know that it’s here they make Nostos Wines, a familiar name on some of the better wine lists in restaurants around Crete.
The winery is very attractive, set out like an old Cretan village, and extremely colourful with flowers growing in old olive oil cans, basil plants in ceramic pots, and a huge rosemary bush growing around the base of a tree.
Flowers in Cans at the Manousakis Winery on Crete
There are tables with bright tablecloths, where people are enjoying meals or snacks, or doing wine-tastings. To one side of the central courtyard, a cookery course is taking place, one of the many events the winery holds, including live music concerts.
Winery Shop
Sea Salt for Sale at the Manousakis Winery on Crete
We explore the winery shop, where we find some of the produce they make here, in addition to the wine. There are pots of sea salt, jars of olive oil, bottles of the Cretan spirit tsikoudia, ceramics made by a local artist, and t-shirts with funny slogans on them. We can’t resist buying the one that says ‘We are what we drink’. In that case, at the moment we’re 50% Cretan wine and 50% raki.
Love Story
Ashfin Molavi, Co-owner of the Manousakis Winery on Crete
Like most vineyards on Crete it’s a family business. The winery is run today by Alexandra Manousakis (whose parents now live in the USA) and her husband Ashfin Molavi. Alexandria had been born in Washington DC and was living in New York when she decided to return to Crete to run the family vineyard.
Ashfin was born in Sweden, trained as a sommelier, and then moved to Athens where he worked in a top restaurant. Here he met Alexandra, who was travelling back and forth from Crete to Athens trying to get the best restaurants there to stock their wines. Before long they were married, and Ashfin was helping run the winery. Ashfin does the blending, and they also have a winemaker and a viticulturalist.
Charity Support
Signs at the Manousakis Winery on Crete
“A percentage of the profits from the first two wines and from our sea salt and olive oil go to a charity for handicapped children,” Ashfin tells us as he gets ready to do a wine-tasting with us. “It goes to a school for children with special needs in Hania. Alexandra had two sisters who were both born early and had problems. We have a saying that ‘many small creeks turn into a river,’ so we do what little we can. Alexandra is on the board of the school as it is something that is very dear to her heart.”
Manousakis Wines
In the Gift Shop at the Manousakis Winery on Crete
“My father-in-law went to the USA at the age of 11 because of poverty, looking for a better life. . He refurbished the house here before the winery existed. He was coming back visiting for 20 years and then in 1993 decided to start the winery. Alexandra took over in 2007, and then I came in 2010. So, let’s try the wines!”
Manousakis Wine Tasting
We started with their 2 Mazi White, which is a blend of two grapes, Roussanne and Vilana, and is made in cooperation with the Lyrarakis vineyard. It’s beautifully fresh and aromatic, with a light citrus aroma, and an easy-drinking white that’s 12% ABV. There’s also a rosé and a red in the same range.
A Wine Tasting at the Manousakis Winery on Crete
“We do 60,000 bottles a year in total,” says Ashfin, “and are a small boutique winery. We plant all our own grapes. We don’t buy in. My father-in-law wanted to make wine that was good enough to be sold in the USA, and not just locally, so he set high standards.”
Next in the tasting is an interesting-sounding wine, a Nostos Muscat of Spinas. Spinas is a village to the west of the vineyard where there are 120-year-old vines of the Muscat grape, originally from Samos. Muscat wine is more associated with Samos, and mainly as a dessert wine. Here at Manousakis they age theirs for 5-6 years and the result is an excellent and very floral regular white wine. It has grassy and citrus notes, as well as the floral sweetness you get from Muscat grapes. It’s also really inexpensive for a wine of this quality, at only 13 euros a bottle at the time of our visit.
A Wine Tasting at the Manousakis Winery on Crete
We then try another white, their Nostos Vidiano 2015. “This is the number one grape variety on the island,” Ashfin explains, “and the number one up-and-coming grape in Greece.” Aged for 6 months in oak barrels, it has that lovely buttery-oaky taste that you get in my favourite chardonnays, and yet this too is only 13 euros.
“You can find our wines in Hania at Salis, which has 500 wine labels on the list. Also at other restaurants, in wine shops and at hotels around Crete. Some go to Athens. We export 30% to Sweden, Denmark, and other European countries, ten countries in all, including the USA.”
We try their Nostos Roussanne 2015, which has the buttery-oaky quality of the Vidiano but with a nuttiness to both the aroma and the taste. Ashfin gives us a taste of the same wine from 2012, and it’s developed a darker colour and an even richer and thicker taste.
A Wine Tasting at the Manousakis Winery on Crete
The Nostos Rosé is pink, very balanced, not too sweet, striking a good balance between light and drinkable, and more complex. The first red we try is the Nostos Grenache 2015. They only plant three red grape varieties, of kinds that you find all around the Mediterranean: Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre. Grenache is originally from Spain, then moved to France, and has been grown on Crete for hundreds of years. It’s a lovely, light and fruity red.
They produce more than three reds, though, as they blend them in different ways. Nostos Alexandra’s is 40% Syrah, 40% Mourvèdre and 20% Grenache Rouge and is a deep ruby red colour with a thick and rich taste of strawberry, cherry, other fruits and spices. It would be wonderful with a good meaty meal.
Vats in the Winery at the Manousakis Winery on Crete
We sip our way through the Cuvée Alexandra (their flagship wine), the Nostos Blend and the Nostos Syrah, whose label shows Alexandra’s grandfather, a carpenter who built the building that became the winery. When you talk about family wineries, this is the kind of thing you mean.
Finally Ashfin kindly treats us to a glass of their Nostos Mourvèdre 2012. They’re the only vineyard on Crete which grows the Mourvèdre grape, and they only have one small plot of it. They only make two barrels a year of this 100% Mourvèdre red wine, which is deliciously rich, fruity, full-bodies, meaty, peppery, floral… the aromas and tastes just go on and on.
Tsikoudia Bottles from the Manousakis Winery on Crete
It’s a perfect end to our Manousakis wine tasting, a rare wine which only they produce on Crete. It’s what wine tourism is all about – meeting with the makers, and trying their unique wines.
Manousakis Wine Tastings
Tours must be booked in advance through their website. It’s not necessary to book tastings in advance although it’s advisable during the busy summer months. https://www.manousakiswinery.com/visit
Our visit to Manousakis was part of a food and wine tour of Crete booked for us by the excellent www.gocrete.net.
See Greece tours the Lyrarakis Winery on Crete, and learns about Crete grape varieties such as plyto, dafni, vidiano, vilana, mandilari and kotsifali.
Touring the Lyrarakis Winery on Crete
The Cretan wine business is booming, a fact that was recognised recently by Wine Enthusiast magazine. It nominated Crete on its shortlist for Wine Region of the Year, along with Champagne, Provence, Sonoma County and the eventual winner, Oregon’s Willamette Valley. Illustrious company indeed.
Touring the Lyrarakis Winery on Crete
Vineyards at the Lyrarakis Winery on Crete
On a tour of one of the island’s biggest wineries, Lyrarakis, we learn one of the reasons why from our guide, Eva Gouvianaki. ‘There are lots of parents who started wineries,’ she says, ‘and now their children are the second generation. They are educated as oenologists, whereas the parents learned simply by doing it. Right now we have specialists, and the wine is better. The parents started and the children took it further. But here we believe in meraki – it means if you’re going to do something you want to do it with passion.’
The Founding of Lyrarakis
Flowers at the Lyrarakis Winery on Crete
Lyrarakis was founded by brothers Manolis and Sotiris Lyrarakis in 1966 and they made an unusual decision which turned out to be farsighted, and another reason for the current success of Cretan wines. They concentrated on growing two local grape varieties, plyto and dafni, which no-one else was using to make wine and which might well now be extinct if not for the Lyrarakis brothers.
Today there are over 50 wineries on Crete, many of them growing familiar imported grape varieties like syrah and merlot, but Lyrarakis and others prefer their native varieties like plyto, dafni, vidiano, vilana, mandilari and kotsifali. They make distinctive wines that are part of the terroir of Crete, the largest and most southerly of the Greek islands.
Karoula Wine Press
Karoula Wine Press at the Lyrarakis Winery on Crete
Before we tour the winery and tastes the wines, Eva drives us out to see another of the Lyrarakis brothers’ legacies, the Karoula wine press. Crete is home to many ancient wine presses, including the oldest known press in the world, some 3500 years old. The Karoula press dates from the 14th century and is carved out of the area’s natural rock.
‘It was a communal press,’ Eva explains, ‘where everyone would bring their grapes to tread them, and the juice would flow down the slope. There was a second pressing nearby. Everyone knew that the press was here, but one of the founding brothers thought it was important to protect it so he reported it to the authorities to help preserve it for future generations. Those are our vines behind the press, the plyto grapes. At one time this whole valley would have been filled with vines.’
Karoula Wine Press at the Lyrarakis Winery on Crete
Cretan wines have a distinguished history. Homer reported that they were known and loved throughout the known world. The Minoans exported wine to Egypt, which is about 400 miles away across the Libyan Sea. In the 15th and 16th centuries, Cretan wines were exported to Venice, where they were rated very highly indeed.
Lyrarakis Today
Snacks Accompanying a Wine Tasting at the Lyrarakis Winery on Crete
Today Lyrarakis, the biggest and oldest winery in the Iraklion region, produces a million litres of wine a year, half of which is exported to the USA, Japan, China and several other countries. In the UK the importers are Berry Brothers and Rudd, who have supplied wine to the royal family since the reign of King George III.
Tasting Room at the Lyrarakis Winery on Crete
Lyrarakis is now run by the second generation, the five children of Manolis and Sotiris Lyrarakis. As we enter the tasting room and impressive restaurant, a young girl enters and skips through the room.
‘And here comes the third generation,’ Eva laughs, as we sit down to taste the wines, and pair them with cheese and other Cretan delicacies. We try the dafni, which has hints of rosemary and lavender – and which you can buy in M&S in the UK. Their Legacy rosé is unusually dark for a rosé, almost a plum colour, while the intensely delicious Malvasia of Crete dessert wine uses a blend of plyto, dafni, vidiano and vilana grapes which are dried in the sun for nine days to concentrate the sugars.
Wines for Sale at the Lyrarakis Winery on Crete
We also try their Symbolo wine, a complex and fruity wine, heavy on the tannin. It’s a flagship wine, only made when the grapes are excellent, and last produced in 2012. The good news is… 2016 was an excellent vintage on Crete, making 2017 the perfect year for wine-lovers to visit.
The Kalimera Archanes renovated stone houses are in the village of Archanes, about 7 miles (11 kms) from the Lyrarakis Winery, and a similar distance from Iraklion Airport. They can be booked through Sunvil Holidays.
The best things to do on Skiathos include seeing Skiathos Town, enjoying its beautiful beaches, hiking in the forests, and visiting ancient monasteries.
Skiathos Town
Best Things to do on Skiathos
Skiathos Town
If you’re not staying in Skiathos Town then it is well worth a day trip. It’s a pleasant place to wander round, do some shopping, visit the art galleries, and have lunch or a drink in one of the places lining the waterfront.
Papadiamantis Museum
You can also visit the Papadiamantis Museum. Alexandros Papadiamantis was an acclaimed writer of both fiction and poetry, born on Skiathos in 1851 in the house that was previously on this site. His father built the present house in 1860 and it is now a museum devoted to the author.
It’s worth seeing even if you haven’t read any of his books, several of which have been translated into English and are still available. He has been called the Dostoyevsky of Greece, and Skiathos features prominently in his work, though in his day it was a very different place, of course, and very poor.
Skiathos Town
Cathedral
Another place to see is the town’s cathedral, Trion Ierarhon, or the Church of the Three Bishops. It was built in 1846 and has some excellent icons, including the one which inspired the building of the Monastery of Panagia Kounistra (see below).
If you are in Skiathos Town, a great day out is to take a boat trip around the island. There are lots of options that stop off at different beaches on the way – and there are plenty of beaches on Skiathos to choose from!
Beaches
Skiathos
With dozens of beaches, Skiathos will keep beach bums happy for weeks. There are two dozen along the south coast alone, all easily reached in the summer by a regular bus service that stops at all of them. It does mean they get crowded, though.
One of the quieter ones is Mandraki Beach as it takes a bit of a walk from the bus stop to get to, and that reduces its appeal to some people, though others appreciate the walk through lovely woods. It’s about a 30-minute drive from Skiathos Town, has nice golden sand, and a taverna in summer.
There’s another bunch of beaches on the northeast coast, one of the best being Lalaria Beach. You can only reach it on a boat trip from Skiathos Town, and take provisions with you as there are no facilities. There’s also no shade. It’s the only beach on Skiathos that is made up of small pebbles rather than sand.
One word of warning: in the northeast you can get strong winds, so always ask about wind conditions before booking. If the wind is too strong the boats will take you to different beaches, and you won’t get your money back if they can’t get into Lalaria.
Skiathos is terrific if you like hiking, as 70% of the island is forested so there’s lots of shade. Bird life is abundant, as birds appreciate the shade too. In all there are 26 recognised hiking routes, and of course many more informal one. You can get lots of information on the Hiking Skiathos website, which is highly recommended.
Monasteries
Skiathos has several old monasteries that can be visited. The most notable is the Monastery of Evangelistria (the Annunciation), which is a 10-minute drive or an hour’s walk north of Skiathos Town. The monastery was founded in 1794 by monks who came from Mount Athos, and it is revered because it was used as a base for freedom fighters during the Greek War of Independence.
In 1807 they designed a new Greek flag, a precursor of today’s flag, which was made here at the monastery. You can still see the loom on which it was made, and this was the first place in Greece where the national flag was raised.
Panagia Kounistra
The Monastery of Panagia Kounistra is a 25-minute drive or a 2-hour hike to the west of Skiathos Town in a lovely location in the middle of a pine forest. Its name translates as The Swinging Virgin (!), as the story goes that in 1650 a monk found an icon of the Virgin Mary swinging from the branch of a pine tree, and it inspired him to build the church here. It’s noted for its fine frescoes and its wooden iconostasis. You can see the icon in the cathedral in Skiathos Town.
Skiathos easily has the best beaches in the Sporades, and some of the best in the Greek islands, ranging from busy and crowded to quiet and remote beaches.
Skiathos Beach
The excellent beaches are just one reason that holidaymakers flock to Skiathos, more so than the other Sporades islands. In fact it’s one of the busiest islands in Greece. This does mean that its beaches get very crowded, especially in the summer months, and that’s what a lot of people want. A crowded and busy beach means more facilities like watersports, beach bars, and tavernas.
The bus which goes around the island stops at the main resorts and main beaches, which is why some of them get so busy. Others are easily reached by car, so if you want a bit of privacy and quiet you should aim for the beaches that are hardest to get to, or have no easy road access.
Apart from hiking to them, you could also hire a boat as some beaches can only be reached by sea. Alternatively you could hire someone with a boat to take you there and call back for you later on. This can be a bit nerve-wracking, as the Greeks don’t exactly have a good reputation for punctuality, and you might begin to worry you’ll be stranded… but most are happy for you to pay them at the end, so you can be confident they will return for you.
Skiathos
Meltemi Wind
One problem the beaches on the north side of the island have is that this is the direction that the summer meltemi wind comes from. As well as being uncomfortable, they can prevent boats from sailing. If you book in advance on a boat to take you to Lalaria Beach, for example, because you want to see the best beach on Skiathos, and the meltemi blows up on the day you’re booked to travel, the boat may have to take you to another beach that is sheltered from the meltemi.
The meltemi wind mainly blows up in the afternoon, so even if there’s no wind in the morning, the boat owner will have checked the weather forecast in the afternoon, and if a strong wind is coming he can’t take the chance of leaving you stranded so he will have to make alternative arrangements. You can use a weather app yourself, or an app like Windfinder, to help you plan your beach visit.
Skiathos is said to have over 60 beaches in all, so that does mean that there are also quieter beaches in more remote parts of the island, so there should be a beach on Skiathos to suit everyone. Here are some to choose from, in alphabetical order.
Skiathos
Best Beaches on Skiathos
Aselinos Beach
Aselinos Beach is actually two beaches, Megalos (Big) and Mikro (Small), and they’re about a 25-minute drive from Skiathos Town around on the north-west coast. They’re both sandy beaches, and the bigger one has a bar and taverna, with the smaller beach being much quieter. Bear in mind that because of the hilly terrain, you can’t easily walk between the two beaches so pick your spot. If you want the quieter beach, take your supplies with you.
Kastro Beach
Kastro Beach is a small beach in the north of the island, a mix of sand and rocks, and with coves to explore. It’s just to the west of Lalaria Beach and some boats from Skiathos Town offer you the chance to make a visit to Kastro Beach before going on to Lalaria Beach. You might want to take this option as there’s a bar at Kastro Beach, and there’s also the ruins of an old town up the hill behind the beach.
Lalaria Beach
Lalaria Beach is at almost the northern tip of the island and is drop-dead gorgeous. With its rocky backdrop it’s often used in posters to help attract visitors to Skiathos for its beaches. The backdrop, though, means that there is no way to get down to the beach on foot so you’ll have to take a boat. Water-taxis take people there and back twice daily from Skiathos Town, though, so that’s not a problem. The trip takes about 40 minutes.
Lalaria Beach is made up of white sandy pebbles, which is very pretty but make sure you have something comfortable to lie on. You will also need to take all your provisions with you, as there’s nothing there. There’s no shade either, so take an umbrella, although in the afternoon the rocks start to shade the beach.
Maratha Beach
Maratha Beach is on Skiathos’s south-west coast and is about a 20-minute drive from Skiathos Town, or you could take the bus. It’s a 25-minute walk from Troulos (see below), so if you don’t want to take food and water with you it’s easy enough to get to Troulos to eat and drink. Maratha Beach does have a beach bar and sunbeds to hire.
Megas Gialos Beach
Despite the fact that it’s only a 10-minute drive from Skiathos Town, this remains a fairly quiet beach. You can also walk there in under an hour. There are no facilities so you’ll have to take everything with you, and it’s not far from the airport so does get some noise. It’s a mix of sand and pebbles and is also popular with nudists. It’s also popular with divers and snorkelers.
Troulos Beach
Troulos Beach is in the village of Troulos and is one of the most popular on the island. It’s a 15-minute drive west from Skiathos Town, or you can get there by bus. It’s also walkable, though it will take you two hours. It’s a sandy beach with umbrellas, loungers, watersports, and eating options.
Tsougrias Beach
Tsougrias Beach is an attractive beach on Tsougrias Island, which is just over 2 miles (3.5 kms) south of Skiathos Town, where you can get a boat to take you there and back. It has some small beach bars and sun beds and umbrellas you can rent.
Vromolimnos Beach
Vromolimnos Beach is on the south coast, which where most of the busiest and best Skiathos beaches are. This one is a 15-minute drive south-west from Skiathos Town, and is also on the local bus route. It has a taverna, sun beds to rent, and you can also rent surfboards, paddle boards, and water skis etc.
These are a good cross-section of some of the best beaches on Skiathos, but remember that there are several dozen more to discover!
The resort of Parga, in Epirus in the west of Greece, is one of the most popular along the Ioanian coast, with several beaches and waterfront seafood tavernas.
Parga in Epirus
There are several good beaches both in and close to the town, a choice of numerous excellent waterfront fish restaurants, and easy access to Dodoni (a 75-minute drive), Ioannina (90 minutes, passing Dodoni on the way), and even the Zagorian villages and the Vikos Gorge (about an hour north of Ioannina). You’ll need your own transportation to get to all these places.
Red House in Parga in Epirus
Parga as a Base
Parga makes a good base as there are also ferried from here to the lovely little island of Paxos, from where you can then take a ferry to Corfu. It’s also only an hour from the airport at Preveza, for international charter flights. You can also get to Athens from Ioannina National Airport.
You can also of course spend an enjoyable week or two at Parga without visiting anywhere else, if you enjoy a lazy beach holiday and relaxing in the evening in different tavernas. Everything considered, and given how attractive it is as well, it’s not surprising that Parga is so popular. If you plan to visit in the middle of summer, you should definitely book ahead.
Parga
Parga History
For all its appearance as a simple beach resort town, Parga has had a fascinating history. At one end of the harbour, that’s lined with restaurants and shops, is an imposing Venetian fortress, built in 1624, as a date over one of the gates indicates. You can see the symbol of Venice, the Lion of St Mark, carved into one of the walls in the keep.
The town was conquered by the Turks but then taken by the Venetians at a time when the Turkish Empire dominated most of modern Greece. The British then captured it from the Venetians, and in 1819 sold it back to the Turks, where it came under the control of Ali Pasha in Ioannina. Under his despotic rule, many of the Parga natives went into exile on Corfu, the families only returning when Parga became Greek again in 1913.
Parga
Parga Town Beach
Beyond the headland where the fortress stands is one of the town’s best beaches, a long sandy stretch, and there are several more to both the east and west of the town centre.
Parga in Epirus
Parga Town
In the town itself, look for a mix of dazzling whitewashed houses, and brightly-coloured ones. The whitewashed houses have dabs of vivid colour from numerous bougainvillea, hibiscus and morning glory plants that cascade down from walls and balconies. Here too are the small hotels, more restaurants, and the souvenir shops that all mark it out as a tourist resort.
Outside the high season from about June to early September, these back streets are pretty enough to retain their Greek picture-postcard charm.
See Greece offers a free guide to Crete, aimed at first-time visitors to let them know how to plan and what to expect from a Crete vacation.
Aptera in Crete
Let’s be clear from the start. Our Free Guide to Crete is very much aimed at first time visitors who want to know the basics – what to expect when they arrive, what documents they need, how to get around, that kind of thing.
If you’ve been to Crete before, or elsewhere in Greece, then this guide will probably not offer you anything you don’t know. You can still download it if you like, of course! It’s free, and as a PDF you can save it and pass it on to any friends you think might be interested.
Free Guide to Crete: Table of Contents
As for what’s in the guide, just check out the Table of Contents below. You’ll see that it’s very much an overview of what first-time visitors can expect. As such, we’re happy to offer this 37-page guide free to anyone who might get something from it.
Downloading the Free Guide to Crete
To read or download this Free Guide to Crete, click on this lovely picture of Crete.
The Zagorian Villages and Vikos Gorge in the Pindus Mountains of northern Greece are popular for hiking, and for their scenic beauty and historical traditions.
Vikos Gorge
A 45-minute drive north of Ioannina in Epirus, as you head towards the Albanian border, you come to Zagori (or Zagoria) and the Vikos Gorge, one of the most intriguing regions of northern and western Greece. Forty-six Zagorian villages, with their own distinctive architecture and culture, are linked together by a network of centuries-old paths that make for ideal walking through the superb scenery of the lower Pindus Mountains.
Vikos Gorge
The Vikos Gorge in the Pindus Mountains of Greece
One of the great natural features of the area is the Vikos Gorge, which runs for 7 miles (12 km) and is only 2 miles (3 km) shorter than the Samaria Gorge on Crete. In places its walls rise 3,117 feet (950 m) sheer from the ground, while elsewhere the gorge opens out to flower-filled meadows, with the opportunity to swim in the Voidhomatis River at the right times of the year.
If you are reasonably fit and have arranged transport and accommodations, it is possible to walk the gorge in one day. Walkers need to be extra careful as the gorge is nowhere near as busy as the Samaria Gorge and is relatively free of other walkers. Travelling at the best times, in early and late summer, you may see only a handful of other people so a twisted ankle or dehydration could become a serious problem.
Winter in the Vikos Gorge
The Vikos Gorge at Sunset
In winter the gorge may not be passable, and the same applies in April and May when the mountain snows melt and turn the trickling rivers into thundering torrents which fill the base of the gorge in places. Always take local advice on conditions, and let people know where you are planning to walk.
The Zagorian Villages
Icon Workshop in Monodendri in Zagoria in Epirus
It would take at least a week just to begin to explore this region. The Zagorian villages are fascinating, and the history and the landscape are richly intertwined. Today’s cultural wealth is partly a result of the region’s past poverty. The harsh landscape made it hard for people to scrape a living here, and many were forced to seek work abroad and send money to their families left behind.
The Turks who ruled from Ioannina, about 30 miles (48 km) to the south, granted Zagori autonomy so that the steadily-growing wealth from abroad was largely retained, and used in the 18th and 19th centuries to build houses known as archontika. These are modest in size for mansions, but certainly grand in comparison to the average mountain home. Some are derelict and romantically crumbling, some are still lived in, while others have been restored for use as museums or guesthouses.
This corner of the Pindus Mountains is not thickly wooded, so the mansions are mostly built from the local limestone, with slate roofs. Often there is space for livestock on the ground floor, and a walled yard. They give a very distinctive look to these small villages: fewer than 4,000 people live permanently in Zagori, one of the most sparsely-populated parts of Greece.
Some of the villages are now deserted and some have just a handful of families supporting themselves by agriculture, but others prosper from the increasing tourism in the area. They are popular with hikers, mountaineers, and the more curious and adventurous travellers. The best bases for exploring are the main villages of Monodendri, Tsepelovo, and the twin villages of Megalo Papingo and Mikro Papingo. They all have guesthouses, restaurants, and small shops, and you can usually find a walking guide to hire, if you wish. If you don’t have a car, you can reach these villages on the local bus from Ioannina.
Hiking the Zagorian Paths
The pathways that connect the various Zagorian villages are best enjoyed in the spring when the paths, which are usually no more than a thin covering of gravel, become carpeted with wildflowers.
Zagorian Bridges
Stone Bridge in Zagoria in Epirus
Be warned that the trails are narrow, and the bridges along the way are equipped with bells which alert those about to cross them of any extremely high winds. The bridges are hump-backed with no sides, so can leave hikers exposed to high winds. The bridges are ancient, built by traders who had to cross the region during the spring melt when flooding was common. Some of these precarious stacks of stone don’t look like they could survive a gust of wind, much less the erosion of the centuries. One of the best-preserved – and most-photographed – is the Kalogeriko Bridge near Kipi.
The best time of year to hike the trails is from about April to October. In late summer the Alpine flowers are still blooming but there are autumnal charms too, with cool breezes and mellow colours.
Stone Bridge in Zagoria in Epirus
The paths are somewhat rough. Boots, or at the very least good walking shoes, are a must. There are many different routes but it is best to hire a local guide. The paths are poorly marked, and some are not marked at all.
For the most part, accommodations in the villages are usually limited to small inns or bed-and-breakfasts, but you can find a good choice from cheap to expensive on places including Airbnb. Each of the main villages has several family-owned tavernas and restaurants
The town of Metsovo stands at Greece’s highest mountain pass, between Ioannina and the plains of Thessaly, and has historic mansions and a distinctive cuisine.
Mountains near Metsovo in Epirus, Greece
To travel from the plains of Thessaly into the region of Epirus involves a drive over the highest road pass in the country, which is 5,599 feet (1,707 m) high and often closed in winter.
Nearby is the lovely mountain town of Metsovo, full of character and atmosphere, reflecting the independent spirit of these tough people who live high in these hills. Some are settled Vlach nomads, although a few hill dwellers still retain the old nomadic lifestyle.
Metsovo is very much on the tourist trail as it’s a ski resort in the winter and popular with hikers in the summer, though it has still lost none of its charm. It has a permanent population of only about 3,000 people, and the drive here, in whichever direction, is one of the best drives in Greece though you can also get here by bus from Ioannina, Kalambaka (near Meteora), or Trikala.
View from Metsovo in Epirus, Greece
Metsovo History
Metsovo has a rich history dating back to at least 1380 AD, when it was first mentioned as a small settlement of shepherds. Its strategic location on the main passes between northern and southern Greece became crucial to its development.
Under Ottoman rule, from the mid-15th century until 1912, Metsovo often held special privileges, particularly after 1430 and again in 1659. These privileges were granted in exchange for guarding mountain passes and allowed the town a degree of political and economic autonomy, effectively creating an autonomous “federation” with nearby villages. This led to significant prosperity, especially from the 18th century onward. The Vlach (Aromanian) speaking population became known as successful merchants and traders, establishing commerce networks across the Balkans and Europe.
View of Metsovo in Epirus, Greece
This wealth funded the establishment of schools, churches, and public works, and Metsovo became the birthplace of influential National Benefactors like Georgios Averoff and Michael Tositsas, whose philanthropy greatly supported the Greek state. Despite suffering destruction during an uprising in 1854, the town’s economy boomed in the mid-19th century. Metsovo was finally liberated by the Greek army during the First Balkan War on October 31, 1912.
In the modern era, the legacy of the benefactors, particularly the establishment of the Baron Michael Tositsas Foundation in 1948, has been key to preserving its cultural heritage and developing its economy, focusing on local traditions like woodcarving, cheesemaking, and winemaking.
Metsovo Cuisine
Breakfast at the Katogi Averoff Winery in Metsovo
The cuisine of Metsovo is rich, hearty, and deeply connected to its pastoral, Vlach heritage and mountainous setting. It is most famous for two exceptional products: cheese and wine.
The town is the birthplace of the renowned Metsovone, a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) smoked semi-hard cheese, traditionally made from cow’s milk with a small percentage of sheep’s or goat’s milk. Other local cheeses to try include Metsovela and a local graviera.
Meat features heavily, often roasted over a spit, with local specialties like savory kontosouvli (large pieces of seasoned pork) and unique local sausages, sometimes flavored with wine or Metsovone cheese. Another staple is the wide variety of pies (pites), which are central to Epirot cuisine, often filled with wild greens, cheese, or meat.
Metsovo Wine
Katogi Averoff Winery Vineyards near Metsovo
Metsovo is also home to the Katogi Averoff Winery, famous for cultivating Greek and international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon in its high-altitude vineyards, making its local wine a perfect pairing for the robust mountain fare. Dishes often feature local ingredients like wild mushrooms, butter (as olive oil is less common in this climate), and the traditional pasta, trachana. They also have accommodation.
The Metsovo Folk Art Museum offers a fascinating glimpse into the culture and wealthy history of the mountain town of Metsovo, Greece. Housed in the rebuilt 17th-century Tositsa Mansion, it was one of the first projects of the Baron Michael Tositsa Foundation, opening in 1955.
The museum is designed as an “open museum,” showcasing rich collections in their natural setting within the manor’s rooms, stables, and parlours, allowing visitors to experience the organization and function of a traditional Metsovo archontiko (mansion).
Key exhibits include:
Traditional wood-carved furniture, textiles, and gold-embroidered costumes.
Silverware, decorative items, and everyday household utensils.
A significant collection of 15th to early 20th-century icons and Byzantine metal items.
Weapons and swords from the Greek War of Independence in 1821.
The third floor is dedicated to the life and political career of Evangelos Averoff-Tossizza, a major benefactor who oversaw the mansion’s reconstruction and the foundation’s work in revitalising Metsovo. The museum provides a vivid, experiential history lesson about life in this prosperous Epirus region.
The Averoff Museum of Neohellenic Art (Averoff Gallery) is one of the most significant museums for modern Greek art in the country.
Overview and History
The museum was founded by Evangelos Averoff-Tossizza (a prominent politician, writer, and descendant of the town’s great benefactors) to fulfill his wish of establishing a high-quality art institution in his hometown. Inaugurated in 1988, the three-story building and its initial collection of 200 works were donated to the Evangelos Averoff-Tossizza Foundation. An expansion in 1994 significantly augmented the exhibition spaces and collection.
Collection and Focus
The permanent exhibition primarily showcases representative works by major Greek painters and sculptors of the 19th and 20th centuries. The collection includes over 700 paintings, sculptures, drawings, and prints and is considered one of the most complete and important collections of this period in Greece.
Visitors can admire masterpieces by renowned artists such as Nikolaos Gyzis, Nikephoros Lytras, Konstantinos Volanakis, and Yannis Moralis. The museum frequently organizes temporary exhibitions and holds a prominent place in the cultural life of the Epirus region.
The See Greece guide to the ancient archaeological site of Tiryns, near Mycenae, in the Peloponnese of Greece, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Where is Tiryns?
From Athens to Tiryns Map (c) Google Maps
Tiryns is about 20 kms (12 miles) south of Mycenae, and 5 kms (3.1 miles) north of Nafplion in the Peloponnese of Greece. If you’re based in Nafplion it’s easy to combine visits to the two sites in one day, or if you’re driving from Athens to Nafplion and make an early start you can also visit both sites on your journey.
Tiryns is about a 90-minute drive from Athens, or about two hours from Athens International Airport. There is some accommodation near Tiryns but our advice would be to stay in Nafplion and make the 5-minute drive to Tiryns.
Ancient Tiryns on the Peloponnese in Greece
Why Is Tiryns Famous?
The site is mainly famous for its impressive fortifications, which date back to the Bronze Age, and for being one of the main centers of the Mycenaean civilisation.
How Old is Tiryns?
The earliest evidence of settlement in Tiryns dates back to the Neolithic period, around 4000 BC. However, it was during the Bronze Age that the site became an important center of Mycenaean culture, which flourished in Greece between 1600 and 1100 BC.
Mycenean Civilisation
The Mycenaean civilisation is known for its monumental architecture, including large palaces, tombs, and fortifications. Tiryns is particularly famous for its fortifications, which were built in several phases between the 15th and the 13th centuries BC. The walls of Tiryns are among the most impressive and well-preserved examples of Mycenaean military architecture.
Tiryns Fortifications
The first fortifications at Tiryns were built around 1500 BC, during the Middle Helladic period. These walls were made of stone and mud-brick, and they encircled the hill on which the palace and other buildings were located. However, these walls were not very strong and were replaced by new, more massive walls around 1400 BC.
Ancient Tiryns on the Peloponnese in Greece
The Walls of Tiryns
The new walls were built of huge limestone blocks, some of which weigh over 10 tons. These blocks were carefully fitted together without mortar, using a technique called “Cyclopean masonry,” which is named after the mythical race of giants who were said to have built the walls. The walls were up to 7 meters (23 feet) thick and over 10 meters (33 feet) high, with towers and bastions at strategic points.
The construction of such massive walls required a large workforce and a high degree of organization. It’s believed that the Mycenaean rulers of Tiryns controlled a large territory and had access to a substantial labor force, including slaves and prisoners of war.
The Palace of Tiryns
The Palace of Tiryns was located within the walls and was the residence of the Mycenaean rulers. The palace was a complex of buildings, including a central hall, private rooms, and storage areas. The central hall was the most impressive part of the palace and was used for public ceremonies, feasts, and other important events. The hall had a large hearth in the center and was decorated with frescoes and other artworks.
Tiryns was an important center of Mycenaean culture and played a role in the wider Mediterranean world. The Mycenaeans were skilled traders and sailors and maintained contacts with other civilisations, such as the Minoans on the island of Crete and the Egyptians.
Tiryns and the Trojan War
Tiryns was also involved in the Trojan War, which is described in Homer’s Iliad. According to the legend, the Mycenaean king Agamemnon gathered a large army at Tiryns and sailed to Troy to recover his wife, who had been kidnapped by the Trojan prince Paris.
Rediscovery of Tiryns
In the centuries that followed, Tiryns declined in importance and was eventually abandoned. The site was rediscovered in the 19th century by German archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann, who also excavated the nearby site of Mycenae. It’s now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Corinth has four aspects to it, which are the Corinth canal, the modern town of Corinth, nearby Ancient Corinth, and above that Akrokorinthos or Upper Corinth.
Ancient Corinth in the Peloponnese
The Corinth Canal
The Corinth (Korinthos) Canal is one of the great sights of Greece. With luck, you might be there when a ship is being steered between the narrow, sheer walls which stretch away in the distance to link the Gulf of Corinth with the Aegean Sea. The only way to see it – apart from taking a boat through it – is to take the main road from Athens onto the Peloponnese, which crosses over the canal. You can park and get out to have a lovely view down the canal, an engineering marvel which effectively turned the Peloponnese into a giant island.
The Corinth Canal in the Peloponnese
Roman Emperor Nero (37-68 AD) first mooted the idea of cutting a canal through the isthmus so that ships could sail from Italy into the Aegean without going all the way round the Peloponnese. He performed the first symbolic excavation in person, using a silver shovel, but the task was never completed. Ships continued to sail up the Gulf of Corinth, unload their cargoes, , and have them carried the 3.5 miles (6 km) to a ship waiting on the far side rather than risk losing the cargo on the sometimes stormy circuit around the Peloponnese.
It wasn’t until 1893, after a total of 12 years work, that the 75-foot (23-metre) Corinth Canal was finally cut through, enabling boats to sail directly to Piraeus. The canal is still used, though less so these days as it isn’t large enough to take the latest super-tankers.
Modern Corinth
A few miles beyond the canal (if coming from Athens) is the modern town of Corinth, which detains few visitors except maybe as a refueling stop. It’s mainly an agricultural service town, and it’s interesting to know that it’s the centre of the Greek currant industry: the word ‘currant’ actually derives from the name Corinth. There are hotels and restaurants if you need to spend the night, but the charms of Nafplion are little more than an hour’s drive away, so head there for the evening.
Ancient Corinth
Ancient Corinth in the Peloponnese
Beyond the modern town, the site of Ancient Corinth is to the south of the main road. Regular buses from modern Corinth also take visitors to and from the site. The site really comes to life as you walk around the well-preserved remains which are dominated by a Temple of Apollo from the 5th century BC. With its massive Doric columns, this is one of the buildings that the Romans left when they redeveloped the city as their provincial capital in 44BC.
The city was once home to 300,000 citizens and 460,000 more who were slaves – a total population bigger than modern-day Denver, Boston, or Washington DC. The smallest buildings are the ones that speak of the history: the remnants of shops, houses, and administrative buildings. The Peirine Fountain was a gift from Herodes Atticus, the wealthy Athenian, patron and friend of the Romans, and the spring beneath it still provides the water supply for the modern town of Corinth.
Ancient Corinth in the Peloponnese
The Archaeological Museum on the site has a good display of remains found there. Some lovely mosaics, mostly dating from the second-century AD Roman period, are a good indication of the city’s wealth at that time. Domestic vases, pottery, and jewelry all give the collection a more human scale.
Upper Corinth
Overlooking the lower city from the hilltop 2.5 miles (4 km) away was Akrokorinthos, or Upper Corinth. To get here you’ll need a car or take a taxi from Corinth, and though it’s a bit steep you can hike it or bike it too. Akrokorinthos’s walls and spectacular views are the chief reasons to visit.
When you see the position the city commands, you realise its strategic importance and why it was refortified by every subsequent wave of invaders, including the Venetians, the Franks, and the Turks. The walls run for 1.25 miles (2 km) around the 60-acre (24-hectare) site, where you can find the remains of chapels, mosques, houses, fortifications, and the still-working Turkish Fountain of Hatzi Mustafa.
This walk in Old Corfu Town, or Campiello, takes you from the Liston through the narrow back streets and alleyways and should take about one to two hours.
The Rooftops of Corfu’s Old Town
One of the highlights of a visit to Corfu Town, the capital of Corfu, is a walk through the atmospheric streets of the old town, known as the Campiello, with its narrow alleyways, tall shuttered buildings, ornate balconies and steep stairways.
A Walk in Old Corfu Town
Start at The Liston
The Liston in Corfu Town at Night
To begin this walk in Old Corfu Town start at the southern end of the Liston and walk west down Voulgareos Street. If it’s hot or wet, walk beneath the shopping arcades – they were built for protection from the weather. Silversmiths have traded along this street since Venetian times, and there are many jewellery stores.
Town Hall Square
Take the first left, just before the flags which mark the entrance to the Town Hall. This leads into Town Hall Square, also known as Plateía Demarchíou or M Theotoki Square. On the left is the Catholic cathedral. Paved terraces adorned with gardens and a fountain rise up the steps to the former archbishop’s palace, which now houses the Bank of Greece.
Iroon Square
Leave the square on the other side of the Town Hall, cross over Voulgareos Street, and continue straight ahead on M Theotoki Street. Pass little Pinia Square with its replica Venetian well, and turn right on N Theotoki Street which leads to Iroon Square. The yellow church on the east side of the square is the Faneromenis Church, built in 1689. Its ornate interior is decorated with gilded wood and icons by Cretan painters.
Paper Money Museum
Opposite is the Ionian Bank, home of the Paper Money Museum. On the square’s south side is St John the Baptist church, Corfu’s former cathedral built in 1520. In the middle of the square is a statue of the politician G. Theotoki. You will have gathered by now that the Theotoki family was an important Corfu dynasty, with numerous streets named after different members.
Church of St Spyridon
Tower of the Church of St Spyridon
Exit the square along the narrow street behind the statue to the left, and go up the steps and into the church of St Spyridon. Leave through the opposite door and turn left down Spyridon Street. At the end, turn left on Filarmonikis Street.
Evangelistrias Square
Cross N Theotoki and take the narrow street between the cigarette and grocery shops. Bear left and return to Pinia square. Turn right at the far end down Vrahlioti Street. It leads to tiny Evangelistrias Square, overlooked by a crumbling bell tower, all that remains of the 16th-century church of Evangelistrias.
Palaiologou Street
Cross over the square and continue down Voulgareos again. Take the first right on Palaiologou Street, signposted to Spilia and the Jewish Community. Bear left after the flower bed, beside the little bakery, Rosy’s. This narrow street is lined with interesting shops and small cafés.
Walking Tip
It is almost inevitable that you will get lost in the confusing warren of streets in the Old Town. Accept it as part of the experience. A compass would really help, as you are not always walking in the direction you might think you are. If confused, simply stop and ask a shopkeeper.
Solomou Street
Just before the end, turn left on Solomou Street. On your right along here is a small square covered in café tables. At the far end is a moving monument to the 2000 Jews of Corfu who perished in Nazi concentration camps in 1944. Solomou Street continues uphill past a pink church to the entrance to the New Fortress.
To the Cathedral
Walk back down Solomou to the end, where you turn left and immediately right down a tiny alley, Prosalendiou. Take the first right onto Alipiou, and bear right past the palm tree, walking uphill. Take the second left, at the top, onto Ag. Theodoras (unmarked), which leads to the top of the Cathedral steps.
The Venetian Well
Sign for the Venetian Well in Corfu’s Old Town
Continue on Ag. Theodoras, past the front of the cathedral and swerving around the cafe tables of a small square. The second left, Komninon Street, takes you under a huge arch and up a flight of steps to Kremasti Square. Here you’ll find the delightful Venetian Well, and the restaurant named after it.
Back to the Liston
Beyond the well, take the first right turn back down to Ag. Theodoras, cross over and continue down Ag. Nikolaou. Ahead you can just see the top of the spire for St. Spyridon’s. When you reach a small square, turn right and immediately left down towards Dousmani. When you reach the shops at the T-junction, turn right and go down the steps. At the bottom bear right down the shopping street and take the first left into Spyridon Street. This leads you back to Kapodistriou Street, where you turn right to return to the start of the walk.
See Greece suggests the ten best things to do on Poros, from museums and monasteries to beaches and cookery classes.
Poros
Nestled between the Peloponnese and the Aegean Sea, Poros is a small but fascinating island that offers a rich array of experiences. Whether you’re a history buff, beach lover, foodie, or adventurer, Poros has something to offer.
The Best Things to Do on Poros
🏛 Explore Poros Town (Chora)
Poros Town
Poros Town is the beating heart of the island. Built amphitheatrically on a hillside, it’s a maze of narrow alleys, whitewashed houses with terracotta roofs, and vibrant bougainvillea. The waterfront promenade is lined with cafés, tavernas, and shops, perfect for people-watching or sipping ouzo as yachts bob in the harbor.
Don’t miss the Clock Tower, perched on the highest point of town. It offers panoramic views of the sea and the Peloponnese coast.
Wander through the backstreets to discover artisan shops and hidden tavernas.
🏖 Swim at Love Bay
Love Bay is one of Poros’s most iconic beaches. Surrounded by pine trees that nearly touch the turquoise water, it’s a romantic and serene spot ideal for swimming and sunbathing.
The beach is small but organized, with sunbeds and a beach bar.
The pine-scented air and calm waters make it a favorite for couples and families alike.
Visit the Temple of Poseidon
High on a hill in the northern part of the island lie the ruins of the Temple of Poseidon, dating back to the 6th century BC. Though only fragments remain, the site is steeped in myth and history.
Ancient Greeks believed Poseidon ruled the seas from here.
The location offers sweeping views and a peaceful atmosphere for reflection.
Map (c) Google Maps
🏺 Discover the Archaeological Museum of Poros
Located in Poros Town, this museum houses artifacts from the Temple of Poseidon and nearby regions like Troezen and Methana.
Exhibits span from the Mycenaean to Roman periods.
Highlights include votive offerings, pottery, and a clay figurine of a horseman from 1300 BC.
🌲 Walk Through the Lemon Forest (Lemonodasos)
Just across the narrow strait in Galatas lies the Lemonodasos, or Lemon Forest—a lush grove of lemon trees interspersed with streams and old watermills.
A short boat ride or drive gets you there.
Ideal for a tranquil walk, especially in spring when the blossoms perfume the air.
Poros Lighthouse
🏄 Try Water Sports at Askeli Beach
Askeli is the longest beach on Poros and a hub for water sports. Whether you’re into kayaking, paddleboarding, or wakeboarding, this is the place to get your adrenaline fix.
The beach is well-organized with restaurants and bars.
The nearby hills offer hiking trails with stunning views.
🕍 Visit the Monastery of Zoodochos Pigi
Founded in 1720, this monastery sits on a pine-covered slope east of Askeli Beach. Legend has it that its spring cured the Metropolitan of Athens of kidney stones.
The church features 17th- and 18th-century religious art.
It’s a peaceful retreat with spiritual and historical significance.
🍽 Eat Fresh Seafood at a Waterfront Taverna
Fresh Fish at the Taverna Apagio on Poros
Poros is a paradise for seafood lovers. Local fishermen supply daily catches to tavernas that serve grilled octopus, fried calamari, and fresh fish.
Try Taverna Apagio, a family-run spot near the new port known for its authentic dishes.
Pair your meal with local wine and enjoy the sunset over the harbor.
⛵ Take a Day Cruise Around the Saronic Islands
Poros is perfectly positioned for island-hopping. Join a day cruise to nearby islands like Hydra and Aegina, each with its own character and charm.
Cruises often include swimming stops and onboard meals.
It’s a great way to see more of the Saronic Gulf without packing your bags.
Join a Traditional Greek Cooking Class
Greek Cooking Course on Poros
Located near Askeli Beach, this hands-on workshop lets you prepare traditional dishes like kleftiko, gyros, and souvlaki meze in a relaxed, friendly setting. After cooking, you’ll enjoy your creations at Odyssey’s Corner Bistro, surrounded by herbs, flowers, and Greek music under the stars
Sirene Blue Hotel on Poros
🌅 Bonus Tips for Visiting Poros
Best Time to Visit: Late spring and early autumn offer pleasant weather and fewer crowds.
Getting There: Poros is just an hour from Athens by fast ferry from Piraeus, making it one of the most accessible Greek islands.
Stay Options: From cliffside resorts like Sirene Blue to charming town hotels like Anemone, there’s accommodation for every taste.
See Greece picks the best time to visit Hydra with a month-by-month breakdown of the weather, hotel prices & any special events to add to the holiday fun.
Hydra at Night
Hydra, one of the Saronic Gulf Islands, is a timeless destination that blends natural beauty, rich history, and a charming car-free atmosphere. Whether you’re a solo traveler seeking serenity, a couple chasing romance, or a family looking for a cultural escape, Hydra offers something for everyone.
But when is the best time to visit? That depends on your priorities—weather, crowds, hotel prices, and events all play a role. So let’s dive into Hydra’s climate and then explore each month in detail to help you plan the perfect trip.
Hydra, with the Peloponnese in the Background
🌤Hydra’s Climate: Mediterranean Magic
Hydra enjoys a classic Mediterranean climate:
Hot, dry summers with long sunny days
Mild, wetter winters with occasional chilly nights
Low annual rainfall (~14.8 inches / 375 mm)
Rare snowfall, usually in January or February
The island’s weather is ideal for outdoor activities from spring through autumn, while winter offers a quieter, more introspective experience.
Events: New Year’s celebrations are low-key; many businesses are closed
Hotel Prices: Lowest of the year; ideal for budget travelers
January is Hydra at its quietest. With high humidity and frequent rain, it’s not beach weather—but it’s perfect for peaceful walks, cosy tavernas, and introspection.
Events: Greek Independence Day (March 25) with parades and celebrations
Hotel Prices: Still affordable, but rising slightly
March is a transitional month. The weather improves, and the island begins to stir from its winter slumber. Independence Day celebrations add a festive touch.
Events: Orthodox Easter (date varies); a deeply cultural and spiritual experience
Hotel Prices: Moderate; book early for Easter
April is a wonderful time to visit. The island blooms, and Easter brings candlelit processions and feasts. It’s a great mix of mild weather and cultural immersion.
Events: Hydra’s Miaoulia Festival preparations begin
Hotel Prices: Rising with demand; still reasonable
May is arguably one of the best months to visit Hydra. Warm days, blooming landscapes, and fewer crowds make it ideal for hiking, swimming, and sightseeing.
Events: Miaoulia Festival (late June) with fireworks, concerts, and naval reenactments
Hotel Prices: High during the festival; book early
June is peak season kickoff. The Miaoulia Festival honours local hero Admiral Miaoulis and is a highlight of the year. Expect warm seas, lively nights, and packed hotels.
Events: Feast of the Dormition (August 15); religious and cultural events
Hotel Prices: Peak season; most expensive month
August is Hydra’s busiest month. The weather is scorching, the sea is warm, and the island is alive with visitors. Book well in advance and prepare for crowds.
Hotel Prices: Moderate; many businesses begin to close
October is Hydra’s autumnal retreat. The weather is still pleasant, and the island takes on a quieter charm. Great for cultural travelers and photographers.
November is cool and damp, but peaceful. Ideal for writers, artists, and anyone seeking solitude. Many hotels and restaurants are closed, so plan ahead.
Events: Christmas and New Year’s Eve; quiet celebrations
Hotel Prices: Lowest of the year
December is Hydra’s hibernation mode. While not festive in a commercial sense, it offers a tranquil escape for those who enjoy winter walks and quiet evenings.
Hydra Graffiti
Final Tips for Travelers
Book early for June–August, especially during festivals
Pack layers in spring and autumn; winters are damp
Check ferry schedules, especially in off-season
Explore beyond Hydra Town—hiking trails and hidden beaches await
Hydra is a destination that rewards thoughtful timing. Whether you crave sun-soaked beaches, cultural immersion, or peaceful solitude, there’s a perfect month waiting for you.
The See Greece guide on what to do on Hydra with kids, including the best beaches, where to stay and kid-friendly dining.
Public Transport on Hydra
Hydra with Kids: Family-Friendly Activities & Tips for a Memorable Island Escape
Hydra, one of the Saronic Gulf Islands of Greece, is a car-free haven that offers a peaceful yet adventurous escape for families. With its charming harbor, gentle beaches, and walkable cobblestone streets, Hydra is a dream destination for parents seeking a blend of relaxation and exploration with their children.
Hydra is 65-140 minutes by ferry from Athens Map (c) Google Maps
Whether you’re traveling with toddlers or teens, this guide will help you uncover the best family-friendly activities and practical tips to make your Hydra holiday unforgettable.
🚶 Why Hydra Is Perfect for Families
Public Transport on Hydra
One of Hydra’s most unique features is its absence of cars. Transportation is limited to donkeys, water taxis, and your own two feet. This makes the island exceptionally safe for children to roam without the usual traffic worries. The laid-back pace, friendly locals, and compact size of the island mean less stress and more quality time together.
🏖 Best Beaches for Kids
Hydra’s beaches are mostly pebbled, but they’re clean, calm, and ideal for family fun. Here are the top picks:
Vlychos Beach
Just a 20-minute walk or short water taxi ride from Hydra Town.
Shallow waters and gentle waves make it perfect for younger kids.
A beachfront taverna offers snacks and shade.
Kamini Beach
Located in the quiet fishing village of Kamini.
Small, peaceful, and great for a picnic.
Ideal for toddlers thanks to its calm waters and easy access.
Mandraki Beach
One of the few sandy beaches on Hydra.
Offers sunbeds, umbrellas, and water sports for older kids.
Easily accessible by water taxi.
Tip: Bring water shoes for the kids—most beaches are pebbly and can be tough on little feet.
🐴 Donkey Rides & Local Transport
Kids Can Take a Donkey Ride on Hydra
Donkeys are a beloved symbol of Hydra and a fun way for kids to experience local culture. While they’re traditionally used for transporting goods, short rides around town are available and safe for children.
Donkey stations are located near the harbor.
Always check with the handler for age and weight limits.
A short ride through Hydra’s alleys can be a highlight for younger kids.
For longer distances, water taxis are a scenic and exciting alternative. Kids love the boat ride, and it’s a quick way to reach beaches or nearby villages.
Hydra Harbour
🏛 Cultural Activities for Curious Minds
Hydra isn’t just about beaches—it’s steeped in history and art, which can be surprisingly engaging for children.
Historical Archives Museum of Hydra
Offers interactive exhibits and maritime history.
Great for older kids interested in Greek independence and naval heritage.
Kountouriotis Mansion
A preserved 18th-century home with period furniture and artifacts.
Gives kids a glimpse into Hydra’s aristocratic past.
Art Galleries
Hydra has a thriving art scene, with galleries like the DESTE Foundation hosting contemporary exhibitions.
Some galleries offer family-friendly events or workshops during summer.
Hydra at Night
🍽 Kid-Friendly Dining
Greek cuisine is naturally kid-friendly—think grilled meats, fresh bread, and lots of cheese. Hydra’s tavernas are welcoming to families and often offer high chairs and children’s portions.
Recommended Spots:
Techne Restaurant & Social – Stylish yet relaxed, with a kids’ menu and sea views.
Taverna Gitoniko – Traditional Greek dishes in a cosy courtyard.
To Pefkaki – Near Vlychos Beach, perfect for a post-swim meal.
Tip: Try local specialties like souvlaki, spanakopita, and loukoumades (Greek doughnuts)—they’re usually a hit with kids.
🛏 Where to Stay with Kids on Hydra
Hydra offers a range of accommodations, from boutique hotels to family-run guesthouses. Look for places with:
Spacious rooms or suites
Kitchenettes for easy meal prep
Proximity to the harbor or beaches
Family-Friendly Options:
Hotel Angelica – Centrally located with family rooms and a garden.
Hydra Icons – Stylish apartments with kitchen facilities.
Four Seasons Hydra – Located near Plakes Beach, ideal for families seeking tranquility.
Hydra
🎨 Fun & Creative Activities
Hydra’s artistic vibe can inspire creativity in kids. Here are a few ideas to keep them engaged:
Sketch the harbor: Provide a small sketchbook and let them draw the boats and donkeys.
Shell collecting: While Hydra’s beaches aren’t sandy, kids can still find interesting pebbles and shells.
Photo scavenger hunt: Create a list of things to spot—like a blue door, a cat, or a church bell.
Practical Tips for Parents
To make your Hydra trip smooth and stress-free, keep these tips in mind:
Pack light but smart: Strollers can be tricky on cobblestones—opt for a baby carrier or lightweight travel stroller.
Hydration is key: The island gets hot in summer, so carry reusable water bottles.
Sun protection: Hats, sunscreen, and UV-protective swimwear are essential.
Cash is handy: While most places accept cards, small shops and donkey rides may prefer cash.
Book early: Hydra is popular in summer—secure your accommodation and ferry tickets in advance.
🌅 Making Memories That Last
Hydra’s charm lies in its simplicity. Without cars, theme parks, or loud nightlife, families can reconnect over slow walks, shared meals, and quiet beach days. Whether it’s watching the sunset from the harbor or laughing over a donkey ride, Hydra offers the kind of moments that stick with you long after the holiday ends.
📌 Final Thoughts on Hydra for Kids
Hydra may not have the flashy attractions of larger Greek islands, but that’s exactly what makes it perfect for families. It’s safe, scenic, and packed with opportunities for meaningful experiences. From beach days to cultural discoveries, Hydra invites you to slow down and savor the joy of traveling with your kids.
Wild Abandon by Jennifer Barclay and published by Bradt Guides is A Journey to Deserted Places of the Dodecanese islands in Greece, including Rhodes and Kos.
Wild Abandon by Jennifer Barclay
Bradt Guides publishes excellent guidebooks. However, they also publish some entertaining and usually very different travel narrative books, and Wild Abandon by Jennifer Barclay is one of those.
Jennifer Barclay
Jennifer Barclay is the perfect author for a book like this, as she has made her home on Tilos in the Dodecanese, has lived in Athens, and has travelled widely throughout the Greek islands. She’s also an adventurous traveller and a lover of deserted places, and has written several other books about Greece including Taverna by the Sea, Falling in Honey and An Octopus in my Ouzo.
Jennifer Barclay and her dog Lisa
In Wild Abandon she decides to focus not on the main sites in the Dodecanese, like the Old Town of Rhodes, but visits places few visitors are likely to discover for themselves. Some require some energetic trekking and camping out, and for most of the trips she’s accompanied only by her faithful dog, Lisa. On others, where Lisa has to be left behind for one reason or another, the author travels with an un-named friend.
The Dodecanese
Astypalea
In all she visits eleven of the islands in the group, and as I’ve visited seven of them myself it was a fascinating read… making me now want to visit the four I’ve not been to so far. She includes the main islands, known for their busy tourist areas, like Rhodes and Kos, but you’ll see sides of these islands you probably didn’t know existed. Each island gets a chapter to itself, and the others are: Tilos, Nisyros, Kalymnos, Astypalea, Kastellorizo, Karpathos, Kasos, Chalki, and Arki.
Tilos
Abandoned village on the Greek Island of Tilos
The book starts and ends on Tilos, where the author lives and which naturally she knows intimately. Here, among many places, she talks about the Harkadio Cave, which she can see across the valley from her office desk and is ‘where the last elephants in Europe died four thousand years ago.’ Elephants in Europe only four thousand years ago? This is the kind of entertaining and unexpected fact the author loves to dig out and entertain the reader with.
Nisyros
Nisyros
On Nisyros she uncovers the Pantelidis Baths, a grand therapeutic spa built in 1910, once visited by thousands coming in shiploads but now lying in ruins. Who knew this was on Nisyros? Certainly not me. The Nisyros chapter is typical of the author’s detailed and descriptive writing.
‘As I stand outside the taverna to get a signal on my phone, I watch a little black cat sitting in a hole in the wall. Lisa sees it and growls, and it jumps away. Yiannis, appearing from the kitchen, points to the hole. “Put your hand inside.” I feel warm steam. It’s a geothermal apiria, or blowhole of the volcano.’
Kos
Kos
I realise as I read through Wild Abandon that I could quote from every chapter to give a feel for the book, for the contents and the author’s style. Here, from the chapter on Kos, called ‘Faith in Water’, she discovers the village of Pyli, where not all the houses are inhabited:
‘Others are obviously long abandoned, broken glass in the windows and rubbish in the garden. I tread carefully through tall grass to peek through an open window. There are black-and-white photographs on the mildewed wall. An old black travelling trunk sits open with a New York address painted by hand on the side.’
Don’t you immediately want to know about the trunk, the photographs and the New York address?
Kalymnos
‘Even in August, it felt excitingly wild and empty. The land was dramatic, fearsome even, with craggy grey cliffs, rust-streaked, dropping down steep inclines almost five hundred metres to the sea. Waves surged relentlessly from the northwest into the narrow inlet where aquamarine water almost glowed. I saw a diver in a wetsuit swimming close to the black rocks, then I watched it moving and realised it was a seal.’
Every chapter has gems of lovely, lyrical writing in it, along with detailed descriptions that make you feel you’re standing there alongside the author seeing what she’s seeing.
Kalymnos
Advice
One piece of advice – if you’re reading the book then have this website open alongside you:
The author has put it together to enhance the book, and it’s full of her colour photographs of the islands covered. You can see some of them on this page. Unfortunately I only looked it up after finishing the book and it’s clear that lots of the photos are of places referred to in the text. It will bring the book even more to life if you can see the photos at the same time.
If you’re planning a trip to any of the islands covered in the book, buy a copy of Wild Abandon to sit alongside a conventional guidebook. If you like reading good travel books about Greece, or about anywhere for that matter, then put Wild Abandon on the shopping list or in your Amazon basket. It’s excellent. Or, as Victoria Hislop said: “A vivid and intoxicating account of these beautiful islands”.
