Discover the turquoise bays, ancient monasteries, and dramatic cliffs of Paleokastritsa with the See Greece guide to Corfu’s loveliest coastal destination.

Nestled along the rugged northwestern coast of Corfu, Paleokastritsa is often described as the Jewel of the Ionian. While many Mediterranean resorts claim the title of paradise, Paleokastritsa earns it through a dramatic blend of lime-green olive groves, towering limestone cliffs, and water so brilliantly turquoise it looks almost fluorescent against the dark rocks.
Whether you’re a history buff, a nature lover, or someone simply looking to lose track of time by the sea, this village offers a quintessential Greek island experience.

1. The Lay of the Land: Location and Geography

Paleokastritsa is situated approximately 25 kilometers (15.5 miles) northwest of Corfu Town. Unlike the flat, sandy stretches found on the island’s southern coast, the geography here is vertical and intricate.
The town is famously built around six distinct bays:
• Agios Spiridon: The main, most accessible beach.
• Agia Triada: Known for its deep waters and beach bars.
• Platia Ammos: A quiet, pebbly retreat.
• Alipa: Home to the local marina.
• Agios Petros: A scenic spot near the monastery.
• Ampelaki: A secluded cove often favored by locals.

This cloverleaf layout means that even when the wind is blowing from one direction, there is almost always a sheltered bay where the water remains as still as a mirror.

2. A Short History of Paleokastritsa

The name Paleokastritsa literally translates to Old Castle Place, a reference to the nearby Byzantine fortress of Angelokastro, which stands sentinel on a nearby peak.

Ancient Mythology

According to local legend and some interpretations of Homer’s Odyssey, Paleokastritsa is the site of the ancient city of the Phaeacians. It is said that Odysseus was shipwrecked here and met Princess Nausicaa on the shores of one of the bays. A rock formation in the sea nearby is even nicknamed The Ship of Odysseus, as legend says Poseidon turned the hero’s boat to stone in a fit of rage.

The Monastery of the Virgin Mary

The modern history of the town is centered around the Theotokos Monastery, founded in 1225. While the current buildings date mostly from the 18th century, the site has been a spiritual beacon for nearly 800 years. Throughout the Venetian, French, and British occupations of Corfu, the monks maintained their tradition of olive oil and wine production, which continues to this day.

The Rise of Tourism

Until the mid-20th century, Paleokastritsa was a quiet cluster of fishing huts and monastic lands. It was the British during their protectorate who first discovered its beauty as a holiday retreat, building the winding road that connects the village to Corfu Town to allow for easier access to its cooling sea breezes.

3. What to Do in Paleokastritsa

Paleokastritsa isn’t a place for ticking boxes; it’s a place for immersion. However, if you are planning a visit, these activities are essential.

The Holy Monastery of Paleokastritsa

Perched on the highest point of the northern promontory, the monastery is a must-visit.
• The Courtyard: Filled with bougainvillea, jasmine, and resident cats, the gardens offer a peaceful atmosphere.
• The Museum: A small but fascinating collection of Byzantine icons, holy vestments, and—curiously—the skeleton of a whale caught in the bay centuries ago.
• The View: Walk to the very edge of the monastery grounds to find the Canon Viewpoint, offering a 270-degree panorama of the Ionian Sea.

Exploring the Sea Caves

The coastline is honeycombed with sea caves, the most famous being Nausicaa Cave and the Blue Eye.
• Boat Taxis: From Alipa Port or Agios Spiridon, you can hire a small boat to take you into the caves.
• Self-Drive Boats: For those who want more freedom, you can rent a motorboat without a license. This is arguably the best way to see the coast, as it allows you to find your own private hidden cove for the afternoon.

Hiking to Angelokastro

For the adventurous, a hike to Angelokastro (Angel’s Castle) is rewarding. Sitting at an altitude of over 300 meters, this Byzantine fortress was never conquered. Standing on the ramparts, you can see across the entire island and, on clear days, all the way to the mountains of Albania.

Diving and Snorkeling

Because of the rocky terrain, the water here is exceptionally clear.
• Snorkeling: Even a few meters from the shore, you’ll see schools of bream and neon-blue damsel fish.
• Diving: Paleokastritsa is the premier diving spot on the island. There are underwater tunnels, arches, and a diverse range of marine life that thrives in the cooler waters of the west coast.

4. Gastronomy and Relaxation

Corfu has a distinct culinary identity influenced by centuries of Venetian rule. In Paleokastritsa, the focus is on fresh seafood and traditional Corfiot stews.
Pastitsada: Rooster or veal slow-cooked in a spicy tomato sauce with cinnamon and cloves, served over thick pasta.
Sofrito: Thin slices of veal cooked in a garlic and vinegar white wine sauce.
Bourdeto: A spicy fish stew made with scorpionfish and red pepper.
Kumquat Liqueur: The signature drink of Corfu, made from the tiny citrus fruits brought from Asia by the British.

5. Practical Tips for Visitors

• The Water Temperature: Be warned—the water in Paleokastritsa is notoriously colder than on the eastern side of the island due to deep-sea currents. It is refreshing in the July heat, but can be a bit of a shock in May!
• Getting Around: While the village is walkable, it is very hilly. If you have mobility issues, consider staying near the main bay (Agios Spiridon).
• Parking: In the peak months of July and August, parking can be difficult. Arrive before 10:00 AM to secure a spot at the main lot.

Paleokastritsa: Summary

Paleokastritsa remains one of the few places that manages to balance tourism with raw, natural beauty. It is a place where you can spend the morning in silent prayer at a medieval monastery and the afternoon jumping off rocks into neon-blue water. Its history, tied to both Homeric myths and Byzantine resilience, gives the landscape a weight and significance that goes beyond just a beach holiday.

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The church of Saint Spyrídon (Ayios Spyridon) in Corfu Town is a must-see site and contains the silver casket of the island’s patron saint.

Always busy with locals and visitors, this church seems surprisingly small considering its importance: it houses the relics of Saint Spyridon, Corfu’s patron saint. It is richly decorated with icons, frescoes, silver and gilt ornaments, and the elaborate coffin of the saint himself.

Born on the island of Cyprus, Saint Spyridon was a shepherd who became a monk and a bishop. He was credited with many miracles before his death in 350 AD. After the fall of Constantinople (now Istanbul) his remains were brought to Corfu in 1456, and a church was built to house them. It was later torn down, and the present church was built in 1590. Its red-domed bell tower is the tallest on the island, a landmark of Corfu Town.

Splendid Iconostasis

The church’s plain facade belies the ornate interior. It contains a splendid iconostasis, or altar screen, made of white Cycladian marble. Set into its upper panels are scenes of the Annunciation, the Last Supper and the Transfiguration, as well as numerous religious figures.

The stunning ceiling murals depicting scenes from the life of Saint Spyridon were originally painted by Panayiotis Doxaras, master of the Ionian School; they were redone in the mid-19th century after the originals were damaged by damp. There are so many silver chandeliers, candelabras and thuribles (incense burners) that the church is said to contain the greatest weight of silver of any church in Greece, outside Tinos.

Honouring Saint Spyrídon

Saint Spyridon lies in an elaborate silver casket studded with a dozen enamel medallions, in a tiny chapel to the right of the altar. Hanging above it is a forest of silver thuribles, dangling with little silver ships and votive offerings. Spyridon is the patron saint of sailors, protecting them from shipwrecks and helping them to safe harbour during storms.

The faithful queue up to kiss his coffin and leave notes with prayers for help. Four times a year and on his name day, 12 December, the coffin is opened to expose the saint’s mummified face, under glass. On his feet are embroidered slippers. Each year he receives a new pair, as the old ones are said to show wear from his night-time strolls around town.

On Palm Sunday, Easter Sunday, 11 August and the first Sunday in November, the saint is paraded through town upright in his open casket. The four processions commemorate the four occasions when he saved the island from disasters: once from famine, twice from plague, and once from Turkish invasion. Throughout the year, the brass candle holder outside the church receives a stream of lighted offerings.

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Corfu Town is the capital of Corfu and of the Ionian Islands and has museums, two forts, several museums, churches, and many other attractions.

Nowhere is the pan-European background in the Ionians more evident than in Corfu Town. (It’s actually a city but everyone calls it Corfu Town.) It may have hole-in-the-wall Greek tavernas in its back streets, and its residents may celebrate Easter even more exuberantly than they do elsewhere in Greece, but it also has very strong influences from Britain, France and Italy in its architecture and its cuisine. Residents of Corfu Town quite rightly regard themselves as more sophisticated than people from other Greek island capitals.

Corfu Town Esplanade

And nowhere is this mix more evident than in the very centre of town, around the Esplanade. This combination of park and town square centres on a British cricket pitch, which used to be a Venetian firing range. At the far end, on a promontory sticking out into the Ionian Sea, stands the Old Venetian Fortress, which was completed in 1559 on a site believed to have been fortified since at least the 7th or 8th centuries AD. The Old Fortress (or Palaio Frotho) can be visited, with wonderful views over the town.

Palace of St Michael and St George

At the north end of the cricket pitch stands the British-built Palace of St Michael and St George, constructed between 1819-24 as the residence of the British High Commissioner at the time. It was renovated in the 1950s and now contains administrative buildings, a library, the tourist office and, in one wing, the Corfu Museum of Asian Art. This collection, unique in Greece, was built up from 10,000 items amassed by Grigorios Manos (1850-1929), a Greek diplomat from Corfu who traveled extensively in the Orient.

The Liston

At the western end of the cricket pitch is a row of cafes and shops that could only be French: the Liston. It was built by a Frenchman in 1807 at the behest of Napoleon, who wanted its colonnades to echo the rue de Rivoli in Paris. Its name is Venetian, deriving from the ‘List’ of noble families whose names were kept in the Golden Book, the Libro d’Oro. The cafes along the Liston are where everyone comes to socialise, a buzz of activity at lunchtime and early evenings, with people meeting friends or relaxing with newspaper and coffee. Your coffee will cost more here than anywhere else in Corfu, but it’s the place to be.

Enosis Monument

At the southern side of the cricket pitch is a park with a splendid fountain and, nearby, the Enosis Monument. This Unification Monument celebrates the occasion in 1864 when the Ionian islands were at last united with the rest of Greece after their final period of foreign, British, rule.

Archaeological Museum

There are numerous sites and museums around Corfu Town that ought to be seen, and which would merit a stay of at least a few days. Naturally the Archaeological Museum of Corfu is one of these, although it does not have the richness in its collection that you might expect from such a thriving town. Its star attraction is worth the visit alone, though, a fearsome Gorgon frieze which was made in the 6th century BC for the Temple of Artemis in the southern suburbs of Corfu Town.

The Banknote Museum

The Banknote Museum sounds as if it might only have appeal to those with a specialist interest, but it is in fact a really enjoyable museum which tells not only the fascinating story of how bank notes are made, but also shows how Corfu’s currency reflects the political changes, including notes in German and Italian currency during World War II when inflation was rampant.

Byzantine Museum

The Byzantine Museum’s official name is the Antivouniotissa Museum as it’s in the church of the Panagia Antivouniotissa and has a small and stylishly displayed collection of icons, some as old as the 15th century. Included are examples of work by the so-called Cretan school, from the days when Venice also ruled Crete and Cretan artists would visit Corfu on their way to study with the masters in Venice.

Church of Agios Spyridon

One church that must be visited in Corfu Town is dedicated to the island’s patron saint, Agios Spyridon. His mummified body is contained in a silver casket inside, and on four occasions a year this is paraded through the streets to celebrate the occasions when the saint is believed to have come to the rescue of the islanders, during battles and plagues. It is a marvellous time to be in Corfu Town (Palm Sunday, Easter Saturday, August 11 and the first Sunday in November) to see the way that Greeks combine religious fervour with abundant partying.

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