Irakleio’s Icon Museum in the church of Ayia Aikaterini is a small but impressive collection from the world’s best icon painters.
Irakleio’s Icon Museum
Cretan icon painters were considered the best in the world, and here in Irakleio‘s Icon Museum you can see some of the finest works by one of the great masters of the art, Michael Damaskinos, as well as other beautiful religious items.
The museum is contained in the small church of Ayía Aikateríni, rather dwarfed by the nearby large cathedral of Áyios Mínas, but step inside its doors and you find this excellent collection of icons, not to mention religious vestments, Bibles, illuminated manuscripts, coins and frescoes. Its official name is the Museum of St Catherine.
Church of Ayia Aikaterini
The collection features some of the best items on the island, rescued from or donated by churches and monasteries all over Crete. The church that houses them was built in 1555, but the seating has been removed to expose the marble floors and provide space for the display cabinets in the aisles and around the sides. Icons grace the walls.
Irakleio’s Icon Museum
Michael Damaskinos
The ticket desk is just inside the door, and on the wall opposite are six hugely impressive 16th century icons, the work of Michael Damaskinos. Damaskinos was the only Cretan painter of his era to rival the talents of El Greco himself. Like the Master, Damaskinos went to Venice, but afterwards he returned to his native island and the six icons hanging here are considered to be among his finest works.
The icons depict various Biblical events such as The Adoration of the Magi, The Last Supper and The Burning Bush. They were all painted in the period 1582-91 for the Moní Vrontísiou (Vrontisiou Monastery) northwest of Záros. In 1800 they were brought to Irakleio to save them from destruction by the Turks. They have a liveliness, a depth of image and of colour that makes them appear as if they were done yesterday.
Irakleio’s Icon Museum
Other Exhibits in Irakleio’s Icon Museum
In the central aisle are two cases containing Byzantine coins and holy manuscripts. On the left aisle is a series of large icons saved from mountain chapels and monasteries, mostly from the 15th and 16th centuries, and anonymous. Note the nearby case of lovely illuminated manuscripts dating from the 16th century and from the Monastery of Epanosiphi and, opposite these, the ornately carved wooden Bishop’s Throne from the Monastery of Kera.
Last Judgement
There are more icons as you approach the high altar, including a very vivid 17th century Last Judgement, where naked souls are cast down into hell where they are being eagerly greeted by evil devils throwing them into the fiery furnace.
Following round to the left of the altar the collection broadens out to include some brightly-coloured frescoes and a large stone iconostasis. Two cases contain some chalices, Bible covers and a holy cross.
Leaving Irakleio’s Icon Museum
On leaving the church, walk across the Platia to see the small church of Áyios Mínas, if open, and the large 19th century cathedral of the same name, with its elaborate metal chandeliers, beautiful painted ceilings, and vast stone pulpit.
Church of Ayios Minas (left) and Cathedral (right)
Top Tips
The opening hours do change so check the website
With no air-conditioning the building can get very hot and stuffy, so visit early in the day if possible.
Hidden Gem
In what would be the south chapel of the church, look for the exceptional icon of Lady of the Kardiotissa from the Monastery of Kera. The Virgin, dressed in red, has sorrowful eyes that seem to stare right into your soul.
Irakleio’s Historical Museum is officially called the Historical Museum of Crete and contains the only work by El Greco that is still on his native island.
Historical Museum of Crete
Where is Irakleio’s Historical Museum?
If you walk west along the waterfront from the Venetian Port you will reach Irakleio’s Historical Museum in about five minutes. It’s on the left in a handsome neoclassical building dating from 1903.
Map )c) Google Maps
Highlights of Irakleio’s Historical Museum
For an overview of the history of both Crete and Irákleio, a visit to this small but informative museum is a must. Highlights include the study of Nikos Kazantzakis and the only work by El Greco still on his native island.
At the ticket desk be sure to pick up one of the leaflets, available in Greek, English or German, which gives a map of the museum and a brief note of what is in each room. Most of the displays also have information displays in both Greek and English, although on some the details given are fairly basic.
First Room
In the first room, to your right as you enter, the information panels are anything but basic. They cover in some detail four of the major periods in Crete’s history, and correspond to four shelves of objects from those periods: the First Byzantine (330-827/8), the Arab Occupation (827/8-961), the Second Byzantine (961-1204) and Venetian Rule (1204-1669.
The major display in this room is a wonderful 1:500 scale model of Irakleio in 1645, when it was known as Chandax. This is the name given to the city when the Arabs made it the island capital in the early 9th century, possibly from the Arabic words Rabdh el-Khandaq, the Fortress of the Moat. On the walls beside it maps show the development of the city over the years, and note the buttons beneath the displays which illuminate the relevant parts of the model.
Scale Model of Irakleio in Irakleio’s Historical Museum
Around Irakleio’s Historical Museum
The museum tour continues behind the ticket desk, with the rooms spread on several levels. Room 2 is the Ceramics Room and has some beautiful bowls and plates imported from Italy during the Venetian period. These are cleverly displayed side-by-side with locally-made pottery from the same period, clearly showing the Italian influence on local designs. There are also some lovely, delicate jugs and bowls from the Arab Occupation of the island.
The rest of the ground floor has several rooms containing Byzantine items, Venetian coats of arms and carvings (note the fountain from a 17th-century Palazzo in Room 6), with stairs leading up to the second level.
El Greco Painting
The Monastery of St Catherine beneath Mount Sinai in Egypt’s Sinai Desert by El Greco
The highlight of Level B is undoubtedly the small dimly-lit room containing El Greco’s painting of The Monastery of St Catherine beneath Mount Sinai in Egypt’s Sinai Desert. This, his only work to remain on Crete, was painted in 1570 and some background to the work is given in extracts from books about it which are also on display.
Cretan Icons
Elsewhere on this floor are several icons from the Cretan school, the more typical style of Greek art, and at the rear one room is given over to the struggle for independence against the Turks.
Nikos Kazantzakis
The major display on Level C is the writer Nikos Kazantzakis’s study from when he lived in Antibes 1948-57, complete with manuscripts of his works, his library of books, and copies of his own books translated into many languages around the world.
Folklore Collection
The museum’s top floor contains a folklore collection based on the theme of the life cycle of birth, marriage and death. The museum has a fine collection of weavings, embroidery, old costumes, household items, musical instruments and many other objects.
Hidden Gems
Slightly overshadowed by the other displays in the first room are some cabinets in the centre containing objects, including fascinating glass and clay hand grenades, found on a galleon that sank in 1669.
One to Miss
The Emmanuel Tsouderos room, opposite the Nikos Kazantzakis room, is unlikely to appeal unless you have a deep interest in Greek politics.
Must See
El Greco’s painting, Monastery of St Catherine beneath Mount Sinai in Egypt’s Sinai Desert.
Here’s See Greece’s guide on how to see the best of Irakleio in a day including the Archaeological Museum, Icon Museum, Historical Museum & Venetian Harbour.
The Venetian Loggia in Irakleio
You can just about fit Irákleio’s main sights into one long day if you take advantage of early and late opening times. But check the hours for each attraction first, as you may need to switch this itinerary around a little on certain days.
Irakleio in a Day: Morning
Irakleio’s Archaeological Museum
8:00am Get an early start at the Archaeological Museum. If you haven’t had breakfast yet, start your visit with a coffee and pastry in the museum coffee shop. Don’t miss our detailed page all about the Archaeological Museum.
10.30am Walk down Odos Dedalou, the main shopping street, and turn right when you reach the end at Platia Venizelou. Continue down Odos 25 Augoustou, stopping to admire the Venetian Loggia. Just beyond, peek into the lovely Áyios Títos church, set back on a small square. Continue to the end of the street, where it reaches the waterfront.
11.30am Walk out along the colourful harbour and visit the Venetian Fortress. Be sure to climb to the top for the city’s best views.
Irakleio Venetian Fortress
Irakleio in a Day: Lunch
12.30pm Have an early lunch by the waterside at Ippokampos. It’s close to the Venetian Harbour, and you can’t eat right on the harbour as there are no restaurants there, but Ippokampos buys direct from the fishermen and you’re spoiled for choice if you like your seafood: squid, octopus, mussels, shrimp, catch-of-the-day and much more.
Irakleio in a Day: Afternoon
Historical Museum of Crete
1.30pm From Ippokampos, walk west along the waterfront to the Historical Museum, which is only five minutes away. It’s not a huge museum and you’ll probably spend an hour or so here. You can certainly see the highlights in that time.
3.00pm Return to Platia Venizelou and have a closer look at the Morosini Fountain. You’ve got some time to kill, but there’s no better spot for people-watching. Have a welcome rest at Bougatsa Kirkor and try Crete’s traditional custard pastry, the bougátsa, or relax in the adjacent El Greco Park.
4.30pm Visit the Icon Museum, which should take you less than an hour, and see the cathedral and church of Áyios Mínas, both on the same square. See our full page on Irakleio’s Icon Museum.
Irakleio’s Archaeological Museum
Afterwards, there’s still time for a last look at the Minoan treasures in the Archaeology Museum, which is open until 8pm. You can then have a pre-dinner drink in one of the bars behind Dedalou Street and congratulate yourself for seeing Irakleio in a day!
Irakleio’s Harbour is one of its most attractive features, and a stroll around here with a visit to the Venetian Fortress that guards it is a treat.
Irakleio Harbour
From the Fortress you get an excellent view not only of the city but of the remains of the Venetian shipyards, or Arsenali, across the water.
Venetian Shipyards
The Venetian Shipyards (also known as the Arsenali) in Irakleio are monumental remnants of the island’s period under the Republic of Venice (1204–1669). Located at the city’s old harbor, these structures were the heartbeat of Venetian maritime dominance in the Eastern Mediterranean.
Irakleio Harbour
Irakleio, then known as Candia, served as the strategic “Venice of the East,” and these dockyards were essential for the construction, repair, and winter housing of the formidable Venetian galleys.
Architecture and Design
The shipyards were designed as long, vaulted stone halls, uniquely engineered to withstand the weight of ships and the corrosive salt air. Originally, there were 19 shipyards divided into three distinct complexes:
Arsenali Antichi (Old)
Arsenali Vecchi (Aged)
Arsenali Nuovi (New)
Each bay measured approximately 50 meters in length and 9 meters in width. Their high, barrel-vaulted roofs were designed to accommodate the massive masts of galleys, while the open-ended design facing the sea allowed vessels to be floated directly into the dry-docking area for maintenance.
Historical Legacy
During their peak in the 16th century, the shipyards were part of a sophisticated industrial network that included a massive water tank (the Zane Tank) and a salt warehouse. Today, only a portion of the original structures remains, as many were demolished in the early 20th century to make way for modern coastal roads. Those that stand today have been beautifully restored and serve as cultural hubs for exhibitions and events, standing as a stony testament to Heraklion’s identity as a former Mediterranean naval powerhouse.
The Fortress
Irakleio Venetian Fortress
The Fortress which dominates the harbour entrance was built in the period 1523-40, though there have been several earlier forts on the site, one being destroyed in an earthquake in 1303. The Venetians rebuilt it and named it the Rocca al Mare, the Rock in the Sea, and the impressive name is appropriate for the impressive building you discover beyond the entrance gate.
Inside you step into a huge and dark vaulted room, with other rooms and passageways leading off it. Ahead and to the right, a long and steep slope leads to the upper levels, where visitors can climb the walls for the impressive views of the harbour and city beyond, or out to sea. The walls have some towers too which can be entered, for even greater height.
Fishermen in Irakleio Harbour
Turkish Seige
While here, mull over the most significant episode in the history of the Fortress. In 1647 the Venetian rulers of Irakleio and the rest of Crete retreated into the Fortress under siege from Turkish invaders. That siege was to last until 1669 and so became one of the longest in history. Eventually after 22 years the Venetians had to succumb, but only after a long and bloody struggle during which it is said that 30,000 Venetians and 118,000 Turks lost their lives.
The Fortress has been extensively refurbished and some say it now looks more like a film set, but its scale remains remarkable. It now sometimes houses temporary exhibitions, and occasional plays and concerts on a stage set up in the upper level.
The Winged Lion
The winged lion of St Mark the Evangelist was the emblem of the Venetian Republic. It was depicted in all areas under its dominion, carved in limestone or marble above gateways or on public buildings and fortifications. Some 80 reliefs have been recorded on Crete.
Top Tip
When an exhibition is on the opening hours sometimes change, so you may want to check in advance if planning a special visit. See the official website here.
The largest of the Greek islands, Crete has one UNESO World Heritage Site but it is spread over six places.
The Ruins of Knossos on Crete
As of 2025, the island of Crete is home to one official UNESCO World Heritage Site: the Minoan Palatial Centres.
While this counts as a single entry on the UNESCO list, it is a “serial property,” meaning it is composed of six distinct archaeological sites scattered across the island. These sites were collectively inscribed in July 2025 during the 47th session of the World Heritage Committee. They represent the peak of the Minoan civilization, which flourished between 1900 and 1100 BCE and is widely considered the first advanced urban society in Europe.
The Six UNESCO Palatial Centres
Each of these six locations offers a unique perspective on Minoan life, from mountain retreats to bustling maritime ports.
1. Knossos: The Labyrinthine Heart
The Ruins of a Temple at Knossos
Located just a few kilometers south of the modern capital, Irakleio, Knossos is the largest and most famous of the Minoan palaces. It spans approximately 20,000 square meters and was the ceremonial and political heart of the Minoan world. See our full guide to Knossos.
Key Features: The site is famous for its “Throne Room,” the Central Court used for public gatherings, and the vibrant (though reconstructed) frescoes like the Bull-Leaping Fresco and the Prince of the Lilies.
Innovation: Knossos featured advanced engineering, including multi-story buildings, light wells for natural illumination, and a sophisticated terracotta pipe drainage system that provided running water and sanitation.
Mythology: This is the legendary site of the Labyrinth, designed by Daedalus to hold the Minotaur, and the seat of the powerful King Minos.
2. Phaistos: The Architect’s Jewel
Phaistos Minoan Palace
Situated on a hill overlooking the fertile Messara Plain in southern Crete, Phaistos is often praised for having the most impressive architectural layout and the most beautiful natural setting of all the palaces. See our full page on Phaistos.
Key Features: The palace is organized around a grand central courtyard with monumental staircases. Unlike Knossos, Phaistos has not been extensively reconstructed with concrete, allowing visitors to see the original stone masonry as it was found.
Discovery: This is where the famous Phaistos Disc was discovered—a clay disc featuring 241 symbols in a spiral, which remains one of the world’s most famous undeciphered scripts.
History: The site shows two distinct phases: the “Old Palace,” destroyed by an earthquake around 1700 BCE, and the “New Palace” built directly on top of the ruins.
3. Malia: The Commercial Crossroads
Malia Palace
Located on the northern coast, Malia is the third-largest palace and provides a clearer look at how a Minoan town functioned, as the ruins of the surrounding residential neighborhoods are well-preserved. Don’t miss our full Malia page.
Key Features: Malia is known for its massive pithoi (giant storage jars) and its industrial areas. A unique feature is the Kernos of Malia, a large circular stone table with small cups around its edge, likely used for liquid offerings or religious rituals.
Artifacts: The world-famous “Gold Bees of Malia” pendant, a masterpiece of Minoan jewelry, was found in a nearby necropolis.
Role: Its proximity to the sea suggests it was a vital hub for maritime trade and the collection of agricultural surplus from the surrounding plains.
4. Zakros: The Gateway to the East
Kato Zakros on Crete
Tucked away in a remote bay at the easternmost tip of Crete, Zakros was the last of the four major “classic” palaces to be discovered. Because it was never looted in antiquity, it has yielded an incredible wealth of artifacts.
Key Features: The palace is smaller than the others but follows the same sophisticated plan. It is unique for its “Lustral Basin”—a sunken room used for ritual cleansing—and its royal apartments that feature built-in drainage.
Trade Hub: Excavations here revealed luxury items from ancient Egypt and the Near East, such as ivory, elephant tusks, and precious stones, proving that Zakros was Crete’s primary gateway for eastern Mediterranean trade.
Environment: It is located at the end of the “Valley of the Dead,” a gorge where the Minoans buried their deceased in caves.
5. Kydonia: The Urban Mystery
Kydonia is unique because the ancient Minoan palatial center lies directly beneath the modern, bustling city of Chania. Specifically, the site is located on the Kastelli Hill overlooking the old Venetian harbor.
Key Features: Much of the site remains unexcavated because it is covered by modern buildings, but the portions that have been uncovered show monumental walls and high-quality masonry.
The “Seal of the Ruler”: One of the most important finds here is a seal impression showing a powerful male figure standing atop a multi-story building, which has provided deep insights into Minoan leadership.
Linear B: Kydonia was a major center in the later “Post-palatial” period, and numerous clay tablets with Linear B script have been found here, linking the site to the later Mycenaean administration.
6. Zominthos: The Mountain Stronghold
High in the foothills of Mount Psiloritis (Mount Ida) at an altitude of nearly 1,200 meters, Zominthos is the only Minoan palace located in a mountainous region rather than a coastal plain.
Key Features: It is a massive, well-preserved multi-story building with over 100 rooms. The architecture is exceptionally sturdy to withstand the harsh mountain winters, utilizing local stone and thick timber beams.
Religious Significance: Zominthos likely served as a seasonal administrative center and a “way station” for pilgrims traveling from Knossos to the Ideon Andron (the sacred cave where Zeus was said to be born).
Economics: The site was a hub for managing mountain resources, specifically wool production from sheep and the harvesting of medicinal mountain herbs and timber.
The Tentative List
While they are not yet full World Heritage Sites, Greece has officially proposed the following for future inclusion:
The Fortress of Spinalonga: A Venetian fortress that later became one of Europe’s last active leper colonies. It is praised for its historical architecture and its poignant human story.
Samaria Gorge: Currently a Biosphere Reserve, but undergoing the process to be listed as a natural World Heritage Site due to its unique biodiversity and geological importance.
Syntagma Square or Constitution Square is the main square in Athens and has a metro station, the Greek Parliament building, hotels, cafes, and a post office.
Syntagma Square in Athens
Syntagma Square: The Beating Heart of Modern Greece
Syntagma Square—Πλατεία Συντάγματος in Greek—is more than a central plaza in Athens. It is the symbolic, political, and emotional core of the modern Greek state. Located directly in front of the Old Royal Palace, which has housed the Greek Parliament since 1934, the square has served for nearly two centuries as the stage upon which the nation’s most defining moments have unfolded. Today, it remains a vibrant crossroads where history, civic life, and everyday Athenian rhythms converge.
Syntagma: A Square Born from Revolution and Reform
The name “Syntagma” means “Constitution,” and it commemorates the historic uprising of September 3, 1843, when citizens and the military demanded that King Otto grant Greece its first constitution. This event marked a turning point in the young nation’s political development, transforming the square into a symbol of democratic aspiration. The uprising was not merely a protest but a foundational moment that shaped the political identity of modern Greece.
The square itself was designed in the 1830s by Bavarian architect Michael Koch as part of King Otto’s vision for a modern European capital. Its neoclassical layout, broad open space, and alignment with the royal palace were intended to project stability and grandeur. Over time, however, the square evolved from a royal forecourt into a public arena where Athenians could gather, celebrate, and challenge authority.
The Changing of the Guard in Syntagma Square
The Parliament and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier
Dominating the north side of the square is the Hellenic Parliament building, originally constructed as the Old Royal Palace. Its austere neoclassical façade overlooks the plaza, reinforcing the square’s role as the country’s political center. At its base lies the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, guarded by the Evzones—elite presidential guards whose ceremonial changing of the guard has become one of Athens’ most iconic spectacles. See our full page about the Changing of the Guard in Athens.
A Hub of Movement and Connection
Ask any Athenian, and they will tell you that Syntagma Square is the city’s true center. Distances to towns across Greece are measured from this point, and its metro station—one of the busiest in the country—connects major lines that weave through the capital. The square is also within walking distance of many of Athens’ most important landmarks, including the Acropolis, the Ancient Agora, the National Garden, and the Temple of Olympian Zeus.
This centrality makes Syntagma not only a transportation hub but also a natural meeting point. Whether people are heading to work, shopping on Ermou Street, or strolling toward Plaka, they often pass through the square. Its fountains, benches, and shaded areas offer a moment of rest amid the city’s bustle.
A Stage for History: From the 19th Century to Today
Syntagma Square has witnessed nearly every major political and social upheaval in modern Greek history. Beyond the 1843 uprising, it was a focal point during the “Dekemvriana” of 1944, a series of violent clashes that marked the beginning of the Greek Civil Wars. In more recent decades, the square has hosted mass demonstrations, labor strikes, and public celebrations.
During the economic crisis of the 2010s, Syntagma became the epicenter of nationwide protests. Thousands gathered to voice frustration over austerity measures, unemployment, and political instability. The square’s steps, fountains, and open spaces transformed into a living forum for debate, solidarity, and dissent. This role as a civic arena underscores the square’s enduring importance in Greek public life.
Architecture, Atmosphere, and Urban Life
Despite its heavy political symbolism, Syntagma Square is also a place of everyday joy and movement. Its layout combines open plazas with landscaped areas, creating a balance between formality and relaxation. The central fountain, often illuminated at night, serves as a visual anchor. Surrounding the square are luxury hotels, cafés, restaurants, and shops that contribute to its lively atmosphere.
The square’s design encourages both transit and lingering. Office workers cross it briskly during the day, while families, tourists, and street performers animate it in the evenings. During holidays, the square becomes a festive space filled with lights, music, and public events.
The National Garden: A Green Refuge Next Door
Adjacent to the square lies the National Garden, a lush 38-acre park commissioned by Queen Amalia in the 19th century. Its shaded pathways, ponds, and botanical variety offer a peaceful escape from the city’s intensity. Many visitors pair a visit to Syntagma with a stroll through the garden, enjoying the contrast between the square’s civic energy and the garden’s tranquility.
Syntagma as a Gateway to Athens
One of the square’s greatest strengths is its proximity to so many of Athens’ cultural treasures. From Syntagma, visitors can easily reach:
Ermou Street, one of the city’s main shopping avenues
Plaka, the historic neighborhood at the foot of the Acropolis
Monastiraki, known for its flea market and vibrant street life
Kolonaki, an upscale district filled with boutiques and galleries
The Zappeion and Panathenaic Stadium, key sites in modern Olympic history
This makes Syntagma not just a destination but a starting point—a gateway to exploring the layers of Athens.
A Square That Reflects the Greek Spirit
What makes Syntagma Square so compelling is the way it encapsulates the Greek experience. It is a place where ancient ideals meet modern realities, where political expression coexists with everyday life, and where the weight of history blends with the spontaneity of the present.
The square’s ability to transform—hosting protests one day and celebrations the next—reflects the resilience and dynamism of the Greek people. It is a space that invites participation, whether through civic engagement, cultural exploration, or simple enjoyment of the city’s pulse.
Why Syntagma Square Matters
Syntagma is more than a landmark. It is a living symbol of Greece’s democratic journey, a crossroads of culture and community, and a testament to the enduring vitality of Athens. Whether you are watching the Evzones, meeting friends by the fountain, or simply passing through on your way to another part of the city, Syntagma Square offers a glimpse into the soul of Greece.
The Changing of the Guard in Athens takes place outside the Parliament building at the top of Syntagma Square and is a must-see for visitors.
The Changing of the Guard in Syntagma Square
Witnessing the Changing of the Guard
In the heart of Athens, amidst the bustling rhythm of a modern European capital, a timeless spectacle unfolds several times a day – the Changing of the Guard ceremony. More than just a military ritual, it’s a vibrant tapestry woven with history, national pride, and a uniquely Athenian flair.
For visitors and locals alike, witnessing the Evzones, Greece’s elite presidential guard, perform their meticulously choreographed duties is an unforgettable experience, a powerful link to the nation’s past and present.
Where is the Changing of the Guard?
The primary stage for this captivating performance is Syntagma Square, or Constitution Square, the beating heart of Athens. Dominating the eastern side of the square stands the Hellenic Parliament Building, a majestic edifice that once served as the Royal Palace. It’s in front of this historic structure, specifically at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, that the most elaborate and frequently witnessed changing of the guard takes place.
The square itself is a hub of activity, a convergence point for major avenues, public transport, and a constant flow of Athenians and tourists. This setting adds to the ceremony’s grandeur, placing it at the crossroads of daily life and national significance.
Changing of the Guard in Athens
When is the Changing of the Guard?
The Changing of the Guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier occurs hourly, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Every hour on the hour, a pair of Evzones, standing as silent sentinels, exchange places with their comrades. While these hourly changes offer a consistent glimpse into the Evzones’ distinctive drill, the most impressive and popular ceremony takes place on Sunday mornings at 11:00 AM.
This larger-scale event features a full marching band and a greater number of Evzones, making for a truly impressive experience. The rhythmic thump of their hobnailed boots, the precise swinging of their arms, and the vibrant colors of their traditional uniforms create a mesmerizing display that draws considerable crowds. Arriving early on Sundays is highly recommended to secure a good viewing spot.
History of the Changing of the Guard
The history of the Changing of the Guard ceremony is intrinsically linked to the history of the building it protects. The Hellenic Parliament Building, a neo-classical masterpiece, was originally commissioned by King Otto, the first king of Greece, and served as the Royal Palace from 1843 until 1935. Following the abolition of the monarchy and the establishment of the Hellenic Republic, the building was converted into the seat of the Greek Parliament in 1935.
The tradition of a ceremonial guard protecting the nation’s most important institutions, whether a palace or a parliament, is a common thread in many countries. In Greece, however, this tradition took on a uniquely national character with the establishment of the Evzones.
The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, unveiled in 1932, further solidified the importance of the guard, transforming their duty into a solemn tribute to all Greek soldiers who have fallen in the defense of their homeland. The ceremony, therefore, is not merely a display of military discipline, but a living memorial, a continuous act of remembrance and national pride.
Changing of the Guard in Athens
The Evzones
At the heart of the ceremony are the Evzones, an elite light infantry unit of the Hellenic Army. Their name, meaning “well-girt” or “lightly armored,” hints at their historical role as agile and formidable fighters. What truly sets them apart, however, is their iconic and elaborate traditional uniform. This uniform is not merely decorative; it is deeply symbolic, a tangible link to the various regions and historical struggles of Greece.
Key elements of their unusual uniforms are:
The Foustanella: Perhaps the most recognizable element is the foustanella, a white kilt-like garment with 400 pleats. Each pleat is said to represent one year of Ottoman rule over Greece, making it a powerful symbol of national resilience and liberation.
The Farion: On their heads, they wear the farion, a red felt cap with a long black tassel. This cap is often adorned with the Greek national emblem.
The Doulamas: Depending on the season and specific occasion, the Evzones wear different jackets. The winter uniform features a heavy, dark blue woolen jacket, while the summer uniform includes a lighter, khaki-colored one. Both are intricately embroidered.
The Krossia: The black fringes on their sleeves, known as krossia, are another distinctive feature.
The Tsarouchia: Their footwear, the tsarouchia, are perhaps the most fascinating and challenging part of the uniform. These heavy, red leather clogs are adorned with a large black pompom at the toe. Each shoe weighs approximately 3 kilograms (6.6 pounds) and is fitted with 60 nails in the sole, which produce the characteristic rhythmic sound during their synchronized march. The meticulous polishing of the tsarouchia is a constant and demanding task for the Evzones.
The White Stockings and Garters: Completing the ensemble are white woolen stockings held up by black garter belts.
The precision with which the Evzones execute their movements, from the slow, deliberate “parade step” to the high-kicking “skipping” step, is a testament to their rigorous training and discipline. Their movements are designed not only for ceremonial purposes but also to allow them to maintain alertness and blood circulation during long periods of motionless duty.
Explore the legacy of Aeschylus, Sophocles, Euripides, and Aristophanes and discover how these great Greek dramatists shaped Western drama and storytelling.
Great Greek Dramatists
The Masters of Greek Classical Drama
The sunlight beating down on the stone tiers of the Theater of Dionysus in Athens wasn’t just illuminating a performance; it was witnessing the birth of Western storytelling. In the 5th century BCE, the Greeks transformed simple choral hymns into a complex, visceral, and intellectually demanding art form. At the heart of this cultural explosion were four titans: Aeschylus, Sophocles, Euripides, and Aristophanes.
These dramatists didn’t just write plays; they constructed the moral and psychological architecture of Western civilization. Their works explored the tension between divine will and human agency, the corruption of power, and the absurdity of the human condition—themes that remain as urgent today as they were two and a half millennia ago.
Aeschylus: The Father of Tragedy
Before Aeschylus, drama was largely a dialogue between a single actor and a large chorus. Aeschylus changed the course of history by introducing a second actor. This seemingly simple shift allowed for actual dialogue and conflict between characters, moving the focus from narration to action.
Aeschylus was a soldier-poet who fought at the Battle of Marathon, and his work carries the weight of a man who seen the fragility of empires. His masterpiece, The Oresteia—the only complete trilogy to survive from antiquity—traces a bloody cycle of revenge within the House of Atreus. Through the characters of Agamemnon, Clytemnestra, and Orestes, Aeschylus explores the transition from primitive eye-for-an-eye justice to the rule of law and the establishment of the jury system.
His style is grand, linguistic, and deeply concerned with the “Moira” (Fate) and the gods. In his hands, tragedy was a civic tool used to remind the citizens of Athens that pride (hubris) inevitably leads to ruin (ate).
Sophocles: The Master of Irony and Structure
If Aeschylus gave tragedy its bones, Sophocles gave it its heartbeat. Sophocles added a third actor, further reducing the role of the chorus and allowing for more intricate character development. He is perhaps the most perfect of the dramatists in terms of plot construction and the use of dramatic irony.
In his most famous work, Oedipus Rex, Sophocles creates a psychological thriller where the protagonist is the detective hunting a murderer, only to realize that the criminal is himself. Aristotle later cited Oedipus Rex as the supreme example of tragedy. Sophocles’ characters are often noble figures caught in an impossible vice between their own integrity and an indifferent universe.
In Antigone, he pits the unwritten laws of the gods against the laws of the state, a conflict that has served as the blueprint for civil disobedience throughout history. Sophocles shifted the focus from the cosmic struggles of Aeschylus to the internal struggles of the individual, making the suffering of his heroes feel devastatingly personal.
Euripides: The Iconoclast and Realist
While Sophocles showed men as they ought to be, Euripides showed them as they are. He was the rebel of the trio, frequently criticized in his own time for his unconventional depictions of the gods and his focus on the marginalized—women, slaves, and the defeated.
Euripides was a master of psychological realism. In Medea, he portrays a woman driven to infanticide not by some abstract divine madness, but by the very human engines of betrayal, rage, and social isolation. His plays often utilized the Deus ex Machina (God from the machine) to resolve complex plots, a technique that some saw as a critique of the gods’ arbitrary interference in human lives.
His work is characterized by a deep skepticism and a proto-feminist sensibility. Plays like The Trojan Women are among the most powerful anti-war statements ever written, focusing not on the glory of the victors, but on the agonizing grief of the survivors. Euripides paved the way for the Hellenistic New Comedy and the later development of the modern novel.
Aristophanes: The Prince of Old Comedy
Drama was not all tears and blood. The Great Dionysia festival also featured Old Comedy, and its undisputed king was Aristophanes. If the tragedians looked at the stars and the depths of the soul, Aristophanes looked at the gutters and the marketplace.
Aristophanes used biting satire, surreal fantasy, and ribald toilet humor to mock the politicians, philosophers, and even his fellow dramatists. In The Frogs, he depicts a contest in the underworld between Aeschylus and Euripides to see who is the better poet. In The Clouds, he famously lampoons Socrates, depicting him as a head-in-the-clouds charlatan.
His most enduring work, Lysistrata, features a sex strike by the women of Greece to force their husbands to end the Peloponnesian War. Despite the laughs, Aristophanes was a deeply political writer; his plays were a vital part of Athenian democracy, acting as a checks and balances system that used ridicule to puncture the egos of the powerful.
Great Greek Dramatists
Other Great Greek Dramatists: Menander and Beyond
While the Big Four dominate the conversation, it is essential to acknowledge those who shaped the later stages of Greek drama.
Menander (c. 342–290 BCE) was the leading figure of New Comedy. Unlike the political satire of Aristophanes, Menander’s plays focused on domestic life, romantic complications, and stock characters like the grumpy old man or the clever slave. His work heavily influenced the Roman playwrights Plautus and Terence, who in turn influenced Shakespeare and Molière. Without Menander, the modern sitcom might not exist.
We should also remember Thespis, the semi-legendary figure who is credited with being the first person ever to step out of the chorus and speak as an individual character. Though none of his works survive, his name lives on in the word thespian.
Finally, there is Phrynichus, an early contemporary of Aeschylus. He is famous for his play The Capture of Miletus, which moved the entire Athenian audience to tears by depicting a recent military defeat. The Athenians actually fined him for reminding them of their misfortunes, proving that from its very inception, Greek drama had the power to shake the foundations of a city.
The Legacy of the Stage
The genius of the Greek dramatists lies in their discovery of the Universal. When we watch a play by Sophocles or Euripides today, we do not see dusty relics of a dead civilization. We see our own reflection.
We see the danger of the echo chamber in The Bacchae; we see the struggle for justice in The Eumenides; and we see the absurdity of war in Lysistrata. These writers understood that humans are essentially political animals who are simultaneously capable of divine nobility and horrific cruelty.
By creating a space—the theater—where a community could collectively witness these truths, the Greek dramatists did more than entertain. They taught us how to empathize, how to question authority, and how to face the inevitable tragedies of life with dignity. Their voices continue to echo from the stone tiers of the past, reminding us that the human drama is a play that never truly reaches its final act.
Greek literature has influenced the world, from the works of Homer, called the world’s first novelist, through its great poets and dramatists to modern authors.
Homer and The Odyssey
The influence of Greece on the literature of the world has been profound and the country’s literary past resonates down through the centuries. Modern literature has its roots in Homer, and those roots still nourish Greece’s – and the world’s – literary tree. Arguably the greatest novel of the 20th century was Ulysses, by the Irish writer James Joyce, who based the plan for his complex and experimental book on Homer’s Odyssey.
Greek Literature: Travel Writing
It could be said that the Greeks invented travel writing, too, as the first such book was Hellados Periegesis (Description of Greece) by the historian and traveller Pausanias, who lived in the 2nd century AD and provided this guide for Roman visitors to Greece’s classical sites. Yes, tourism goes back that far! Pausanias’s book is as useful today as it was back then, as indeed are several books by historians that give us literary accounts of life in ancient Greece, notably the Histories by Herodotus (circa 484-425 BC) and The History of the Peloponnesian War by Thucydides (circa 460-400 BC).
Herodotus and Thucydides
Herodotus has been called the Father of History, and his book is regarded as the first major work of nonfiction, just as Homer produced the first major works of fiction. Herodotus’s book slightly predates Thucydides’s The History of the Peloponnesian War. It includes sections on the Persian Wars (490 and 481-479 BC) but also illuminates life in those days with accounts of legends, customs, beliefs, traditions, and everyday events that bring the period vividly alive once again.
The value of Thucydides’s book is immense for several reasons, not least because of the chronicle it gives of the war itself. Though Thucydides participated in the war as an Athenian commander, he also saw the value of recording events, and of trying to give an objective rather than partisan account. He interviewed combatants and quotes the speeches of the leaders in a manner that serves as a template to this day.
Greek Literature: Great Greek Poets
The great Greek poets, from Homer to Elytis, are described on our Great Greek Poets page.
Modern Greek Writers
Greece has many other fine writers that are perhaps less well-known to the outside world, simply because of the language they write in. The enterprising Athenian publisher Kedros has published a superb series called Modern Greek Writers, translating some contemporary works into English for the first time.
Greek writers still battle with the big themes, as shown by Dido Sotiriou (1909-2004) in her novel Farewell Anatolia. A best-seller in Greece since it was published in 1962, the book recounts the forced exchange of Greek and Turkish populations in 1923. Its publication in a Turkish translation in 1970 was welcomed as providing a greater understanding of the suffering on both sides, and in 1990 the author was awarded the highest literary award in Greece, the prize of the Academy of Athens.
Eugenia Fakinou (born 1945) is another female writer whose books deal with what it means to be Greek. Her first novel, Astradeni, has remained in print in Greece since it was published in 1982, and has also been translated into English. It tells a tale familiar to many Greeks, of a family forced by circumstance to leave its island home to move to Athens in search of a better life. The young girl who tells the story, Astradeni, depicts the changes with the bold and simple gaze of a child.
Petros Abatzoglou (1931-2004) wrote several novels and collections of stories, but for an outsider perhaps the most interesting would be What Does Mrs Freeman Want? It gives the Greek perspective on a pair of English tourists who come to soak up the sun, while the book’s narrator observes them and soaks up the ouzo.
There have been several great Greek poets, with two authors winning the Nobel Prize for Literature, the most famous being Sappho, Cavafy, Seferis and Elytis.
The Great Greek Poet Sappho
For such a small nation, Greece has produced an astonishing number of exceptional poets, including two winners of the Nobel Prize for Literature: George Seferis and Odysseus Elytis. The names of other great Greek poets like Sappho and Cavafy are known all over the world.
Sappho
Homer can justifiably be regarded as the father of all poetry, though he is far from being the only Greek figure of importance in the world of verse. Consider the female poet Sappho (650-c.590 BC), whose very name has entered the language in the term ‘sapphic’ to describe lesbian love. The word lesbian itself comes from the fact that Sappho was born on the island of Lesbos in the North-East Aegean. In fact there is no concrete evidence to prove that Sappho was herself a lesbian, and much to indicate the opposite.
Sappho is said to have been a lover of the male poet, Alcaeus (c.620-c.580 BC), to have married and had a child by another man, and to have committed suicide by throwing herself off a clifftop on the island of Lefkas due to unrequited love for a boatman. The belief in her lesbianism came from another poet, Anacreon (c.572-488 BC), who claimed that Sappho was sexually attracted to the women to whom she taught poetry.
Of the poetry itself only fragments survive from the nine books that she wrote, but she was so highly regarded that long after her death the philosopher Plato (c.428-347 BC) described her as being the tenth muse. You can find her Complete Poemshere.
Cavafy
Constantine P. Cavafy (1863–1933) stands as one of the most influential figures in modern Greek literature, yet he spent nearly his entire life in Alexandria, Egypt. Known as the poet of the city, his work serves as a bridge between the glorious Hellenistic past and the melancholic reality of the modern world.
Cavafy’s body of work is generally categorized into three distinct themes:
• Historical: He often ignored the classical Golden Age of Athens, preferring the complex, decaying empires of the Ptolemies and Byzantium. His poems capture pivotal moments of transition or impending doom.
• Sensual: Cavafy was remarkably honest for his time, writing evocative, elegiac poetry about desire and the lingering memory of brief encounters.
• Philosophical: He explored themes of regret, fate, and the dignity of failure, most famously in poems like ‘The City’ and ‘Ithaka’.
His style is distinctive for its economy and lack of artifice. He avoided the flowery metaphors typical of his contemporaries, opting instead for a dry, ironic, and precise tone. Interestingly, Cavafy never published a full book in his lifetime; he distributed his poems on broadsheets to a select circle of friends. Today, his voice remains hauntingly modern, reminding us that while empires crumble, human longing and the weight of history remain constant. You can find his Collected Poemshere.
George Seferis
George Seferis (1900–1971) stands as a monumental figure in 20th-century literature, serving as the first Greek to be awarded the Nobel Prize in Literature, in 1963. Born in Smyrna, he was a witness to the Asia Minor Catastrophe of 1922, an event that instilled a lifelong sense of displacement, loss, and wandering in his work.
Seferis’s poetry is defined by its modernist restraint and a profound dialogue between the ancient and contemporary worlds. Unlike the flowery rhetoric of earlier Greek poets, Seferis used a spare, precise vernacular. He famously blended Homeric myths with the gritty reality of modern exile, most notably in his masterpiece Mythistorema (1935), where the journey of Odysseus becomes a symbol for the modern Greek soul searching for its identity amidst a landscape of broken stones.
A career diplomat, Seferis lived much of his life abroad, eventually serving as the Greek Ambassador to the United Kingdom. This professional distance allowed him to observe his homeland with both intense longing and critical irony. In his final years, he became a symbol of moral resistance by publicly denouncing the military junta. His funeral in 1971 turned into a massive silent protest, cementing his legacy as the conscience of the nation.
Odysseus Elytis
Odysseus Elytis (1911–1996) was a towering figure of the Generation of the ’30s and the second Greek author to receive the Nobel Prize in Literature (1979). While his contemporary Seferis often dwelled on the shadows of history and exile, Elytis became the poet of light, transparency, and the metaphysical power of the Aegean Sea.
His early work was heavily influenced by Surrealism, which he adapted to the Greek landscape to create a solar metaphysics. For Elytis, the sun was not just a physical object but a moral force capable of revealing the purity of the world. His most celebrated work, Axion Esti (1959), is a monumental poetic cycle that blends the structure of the Orthodox liturgy with modern history and personal mythology. It famously captures the Greek spirit’s resilience through the horrors of World War II and the subsequent Civil War.
Elytis’s language is characterized by its sensual precision and a deep belief in the small miracles of existence—a pebble on a beach, the scent of wild thyme, or the glint of a wave. He sought to reconcile the physical beauty of the Mediterranean with a profound spiritual depth, asserting that poetry is a tool for attaining a state of grace.
The See Greece guide to tipping in Greece from two Greece travel experts, including when to tip, what to tip and when not to tip.
Tipping in Greece
Tipping in Greece is different from tipping habits in many other countries. Before writing this page, based on a few decades of travelling in Greece regularly and having many Greek friends, we checked what other websites say about tipping when you’re in Greece. We were shocked by the amount of misinformation that’s out there.
So many websites exaggerate the need for tipping and the amount you should tip. They are clearly written by American travellers who have taken their own country’s tipping habits to Greece and assumed it’s the same over there. Or they’re written by people who have never been to Greece and just made it up (it happens).
One website even said that it’s common in Greece for restaurants to round up your bill to include the service. This is nonsense. We’ve had probably thousands of meals in Greece and never once has a restaurant rounded up the bill. The bill is the bill and will be itemised like it is everywhere else in the world.
Here is what you really need to know.
Tipping in Restaurants in Greece
In many restaurants the service charge is already included in the bill. Some menus show two prices for a dish – one without service and one with service. This means service will be included. Otherwise check the bill.
There is no need to add a tip, though it’s considered polite to round it up or say ‘keep the change’. If you have received good service then by all means add some extra. Waiters still reply on their tips. See our page on Life as a Greek Waiter on Zakynthos.
In Greece there is usually also an automatic cover charge, which is for the bread, water and any nibbles that are there when you sit down.
If service is not included then a tip of about 10% would be appropriate. Greece is not like the USA where generous tips of 15-20% are considered almost mandatory unless the waiter is awful. It’s also common practice to leave a few coins on the table for the person who clears away.
The general rule is not to get into a tizzy about tipping in Greece, especially if you’re from the USA. Tipping is not expected, though of course always appreciated. It’s simply not the big deal that it is in other countries. In touristy places it has become more the norm, but always remember that many Greeks will only give a modest tip, at the most.
Just as an aside, you won’t get the bill in Greece until you ask for it. It’s not like the USA where the bill is often brought automatically when the waiter thinks you’ve finished. In Greece they assume you’re not finished until you let them know.
Tipping Taxis in Greece
If taking a taxi in Greece then round up the bill by a few euros, depending on the size of the fare. Either that or tell the driver to keep the change if it’s about the right amount. The driver will automatically include a charge for any luggage that he has to handle. That is the norm in Greece, so no need to tip him extra because he helps you with your luggage – you’re already paying for it.
Tipping in Hotels in Greece
If someone carries your bag for then give them one euro per bag. For the chambermaid leave one euro per day.
You might also tip a few euros to the concierge if they have been very helpful – as most of them are.
Tipping Tour Guides in Greece
You would normally tip your tour guide if they have been good, as many are. It depends on the length and price of the tour, but maybe €5 for a half-day tour or €10 for a longer one. You can base this tip on about 10-15% of the tour price.
Tipping in a Bar in Greece
Tipping in a bar in Greece is not expected. You buy a drink and you pay for it. If a drink costs €9.50, say, you’d give €10 and say ‘keep the change’. If it costs €10, you don’t need to add on anything. If you have a few rounds of drinks, leave a few euros on the table when you leave. Even that is not expected, but it’s considered a nice gesture if you’ve had good service.
See Greece tells the story of Alexander the Great, the son of Philip II of Macedonia, who gave Greece the greatest empire it has ever known.
Statue of Alexander the Great on the Thessaloniki Waterfront at Sunset
Greece is rightly proud of the King of Macedonia, Alexander the Great (356-323 BC), as the Greek Empire was at its mightiest during his reign. By the time of his death his armies had conquered lands throughout the Middle and Near East, as far as the Punjab, and down into Egypt, where he founded the city of Alexandria and where he is somewhere thought to be buried – although he actually died in Babylon.
Philip of Macedonia
Statue of Alexander the Great in Thessaloniki
Alexander’s father, Philip II of Macedonia, was already extending his Empire and gave his son, who was born in Alexander the Great, the very best start in life. He had the finest teachers, including Aristotle, and he was commanding part of the Macedonian Army by the age of eighteen. Two years later his father Philip was assassinated as he prepared to invade Persia, and it cannot be certain that Alexander did not actually have a hand in this.
Alexander immediately took command of the Macedonian troops, and in 334 BC took an army of some 35,000 of them across the Hellespont (now the Dardanelles) and although outnumbered they defeated the Persian Army allegedly with the loss of only 110 of their own men. He had already swiftly put down rebellions in some of the Greek city-states, notably Thebes, which he burned to the ground.
From Persia he turned his attention to the Middle East, conquering Damascus, then Palestine, and finally marching into Egypt. Here he was welcomed for liberating the country from the Persians, and in 331 BC he founded Alexandria, having by this time complete control of the Eastern Mediterranean. Not satisfied with his, he headed for India, where he won more victories but at the cost of great numbers of men.
The Death of Alexander the Great
Alexander the Great was back in Babylon in 323 BC, turning his attentions to conquering more of Arabia and further west into North Africa, when he was taken ill with a fever after a banquet and died eleven days later. His body was taken in a gold casket to Alexandria, but his burial place has never been firmly established. Some recent archaeological digs claim to have found his tomb in the Egyptian desert, but without convincing proof.
Alexander the Great’s Legacy
There is no doubt that Alexander was indeed one of the greatest leaders in history, noted for his tactical ability, his charisma in leading his men and inspiring bravery in his troops, and for his own bravery too. Like all such leaders, though, he had his ruthless side and didn’t hesitate to eliminate potential rivals just as swiftly and as brutally as he wiped out his enemies.
It is also said that he had a vision not merely to conquer the world but to unite both East and West in one large harmonious Empire. Certainly the cities he founded were all civilised and cultured places, and he fervently spread Greek culture and language while taking an interest in the cultures of the lands he conquered. He might well even be regarded as the most important Greek who ever lived.
Museums in Rhodes Town include an archaeological museum, Byzantine museum, a museum of decorative arts, and exceptional collections of modern Greek art.
Museum of Modern Greek Art in Rhodes Town
There are several museums in Rhodes Town that are well worth a visit, and if you are staying on Rhodes you should plan to spend at least one day in Rhodes Town, but preferably two or three.
Archaeological Museum
Archaeological Museum of Rhodes
Rhodes’s Archaeological Museum is located in the old Hospital of the Knights, a rather severe, but impressive, 15th-century Gothic building. A steep staircase leads to the magnificent infirmary hall with its central colonnade, the capitals of which are carved with heraldic devices.
The smaller side chambers of the upper gallery contain some fine artefacts including the celebrated, yet unglamorous, Marine Venus, a sea-eroded 4th-century BC statue of Aphrodite, which inspired the writer Lawrence Durrell to call his book about Rhodes, Reflections on a Marine Venus.
In other chambers are superb Rhodian amphorae, some fine Attic pottery pieces, and Mycenaean jewellery. Look for the 4th-century gravestone of Kalliarista and its touching epigram inscribed by her husband, as well as the tiny vases and bowls that formed a child’s funerary gifts. Beyond the upper gallery is a sunlit sculpture garden.
Rhodes is the proud guardian of one of the finest collections of modern Greek art in existence. The collections are housed in separate galleries. Two are in the Old Town; the Municipal Art Gallery, which contains a collection of fine engravings, while the second, the smaller Centre of Contemporary Art, exhibits and promotes work by contemporary artists.
Pride of place goes to the splendid Nestoridion Melathron, housed in the one-time Olympic Hotel at the heart of New Town’s hotel district. The building has been thoroughly modernised and contains superb collections from the 1860s to the present day. The displays include an extensive number of paintings and prints, together with sculptures and drawings by celebrated Greek artists.
Nestoridion Melathron, 1 Haritou Square, mgamuseum.gr
Centre of Contemporary Art, 179 Sokratous Street
Decorative Arts Collection of Rhodes
Decorative Arts Collection of Rhodes
The Decorative Arts Collection of Rhodes is housed in a ground floor room that was once part of the armoury of the Knights of St John. It is more of a folk art museum than its name implies, and has a charming and colourful collection of domestic goods from the 16th to the early 20th century.
These include folk costumes from the islands of Symi and Astypalaea, carved and painted chests and bedsteads, carved wall cupboards and other furnishings. There is a large collection of ceramics and fabrics, including carpets and such distinctive items as embroidered bed tents.
The Byzantine Museum is housed in the splendid Church of Panagia tou Kastrou, the Virgin of the Castle. This 11th-century building has had a remarkable history. Originally it was the Byzantine Cathedral of Rhodes and had a classic Byzantine ‘cross-in-square’ form, with a central dome. The church was converted to a Roman Catholic cathedral by the Knights of St John, who replaced the dome with a barrel vault and cross vaults.
During the Turkish occupation of Rhodes the building was converted into a mosque complete with minaret, removed during the Italian reconstruction. Today, the church contains a few Byzantine and post-Byzantine icons and wall-paintings, sculptures and mosaic fragments.
Located within the Palace of the Grand Masters, this is an outstanding collection of artefacts that leads you through a series of displays from the Stone Age settlement of Rhodes through the classical to the Roman period. Among the many exhibits is a fine head of the Sun God Helios, Rhodes’ mythic founder.
A mosaic floor of the Middle Hellenistic period displays a superb ‘New Comedy Mask’ that you would swear was a painting rather than an intricate mosaic. Look out for the little bronze figures of bulls and grasshoppers. There are splendid collections of pottery and household goods from all periods displayed in an imaginative way.
Discover the turquoise bays, ancient monasteries, and dramatic cliffs of Paleokastritsa with the See Greece guide to Corfu’s loveliest coastal destination.
Paleokastritsa on Corfu
Nestled along the rugged northwestern coast of Corfu, Paleokastritsa is often described as the Jewel of the Ionian. While many Mediterranean resorts claim the title of paradise, Paleokastritsa earns it through a dramatic blend of lime-green olive groves, towering limestone cliffs, and water so brilliantly turquoise it looks almost fluorescent against the dark rocks.
Whether you’re a history buff, a nature lover, or someone simply looking to lose track of time by the sea, this village offers a quintessential Greek island experience.
1. The Lay of the Land: Location and Geography
Paleokastritsa is situated approximately 25 kilometers (15.5 miles) northwest of Corfu Town. Unlike the flat, sandy stretches found on the island’s southern coast, the geography here is vertical and intricate.
The town is famously built around six distinct bays:
• Agios Spiridon: The main, most accessible beach.
• Agia Triada: Known for its deep waters and beach bars.
• Platia Ammos: A quiet, pebbly retreat.
• Alipa: Home to the local marina.
• Agios Petros: A scenic spot near the monastery.
• Ampelaki: A secluded cove often favored by locals.
This cloverleaf layout means that even when the wind is blowing from one direction, there is almost always a sheltered bay where the water remains as still as a mirror.
Paleokastritsa
2. A Short History of Paleokastritsa
The name Paleokastritsa literally translates to Old Castle Place, a reference to the nearby Byzantine fortress of Angelokastro, which stands sentinel on a nearby peak.
Ancient Mythology
According to local legend and some interpretations of Homer’s Odyssey, Paleokastritsa is the site of the ancient city of the Phaeacians. It is said that Odysseus was shipwrecked here and met Princess Nausicaa on the shores of one of the bays. A rock formation in the sea nearby is even nicknamed The Ship of Odysseus, as legend says Poseidon turned the hero’s boat to stone in a fit of rage.
The Monastery of the Virgin Mary
The modern history of the town is centered around the Theotokos Monastery, founded in 1225. While the current buildings date mostly from the 18th century, the site has been a spiritual beacon for nearly 800 years. Throughout the Venetian, French, and British occupations of Corfu, the monks maintained their tradition of olive oil and wine production, which continues to this day.
The Rise of Tourism
Until the mid-20th century, Paleokastritsa was a quiet cluster of fishing huts and monastic lands. It was the British during their protectorate who first discovered its beauty as a holiday retreat, building the winding road that connects the village to Corfu Town to allow for easier access to its cooling sea breezes.
Paleokastritsa Boat
3. What to Do in Paleokastritsa
Paleokastritsa isn’t a place for ticking boxes; it’s a place for immersion. However, if you are planning a visit, these activities are essential.
The Holy Monastery of Paleokastritsa
Perched on the highest point of the northern promontory, the monastery is a must-visit. • The Courtyard: Filled with bougainvillea, jasmine, and resident cats, the gardens offer a peaceful atmosphere. • The Museum: A small but fascinating collection of Byzantine icons, holy vestments, and—curiously—the skeleton of a whale caught in the bay centuries ago. • The View: Walk to the very edge of the monastery grounds to find the Canon Viewpoint, offering a 270-degree panorama of the Ionian Sea.
Exploring the Sea Caves
The coastline is honeycombed with sea caves, the most famous being Nausicaa Cave and the Blue Eye. • Boat Taxis: From Alipa Port or Agios Spiridon, you can hire a small boat to take you into the caves. • Self-Drive Boats: For those who want more freedom, you can rent a motorboat without a license. This is arguably the best way to see the coast, as it allows you to find your own private hidden cove for the afternoon.
Hiking to Angelokastro
The Fortress of Angelokastro on Corfu
For the adventurous, a hike to Angelokastro (Angel’s Castle) is rewarding. Sitting at an altitude of over 300 meters, this Byzantine fortress was never conquered. Standing on the ramparts, you can see across the entire island and, on clear days, all the way to the mountains of Albania.
Diving and Snorkeling
Because of the rocky terrain, the water here is exceptionally clear. • Snorkeling: Even a few meters from the shore, you’ll see schools of bream and neon-blue damsel fish. • Diving: Paleokastritsa is the premier diving spot on the island. There are underwater tunnels, arches, and a diverse range of marine life that thrives in the cooler waters of the west coast.
4. Gastronomy and Relaxation
Bottles of Kumquat Liqueur on Corfu
Corfu has a distinct culinary identity influenced by centuries of Venetian rule. In Paleokastritsa, the focus is on fresh seafood and traditional Corfiot stews. Pastitsada: Rooster or veal slow-cooked in a spicy tomato sauce with cinnamon and cloves, served over thick pasta. Sofrito: Thin slices of veal cooked in a garlic and vinegar white wine sauce. Bourdeto: A spicy fish stew made with scorpionfish and red pepper. Kumquat Liqueur: The signature drink of Corfu, made from the tiny citrus fruits brought from Asia by the British.
5. Practical Tips for Visitors
• The Water Temperature: Be warned—the water in Paleokastritsa is notoriously colder than on the eastern side of the island due to deep-sea currents. It is refreshing in the July heat, but can be a bit of a shock in May! • Getting Around: While the village is walkable, it is very hilly. If you have mobility issues, consider staying near the main bay (Agios Spiridon). • Parking: In the peak months of July and August, parking can be difficult. Arrive before 10:00 AM to secure a spot at the main lot.
6. Where to Stay in Paleokastritsa
Paleokastritsa: Summary
Paleokastritsa remains one of the few places that manages to balance tourism with raw, natural beauty. It is a place where you can spend the morning in silent prayer at a medieval monastery and the afternoon jumping off rocks into neon-blue water. Its history, tied to both Homeric myths and Byzantine resilience, gives the landscape a weight and significance that goes beyond just a beach holiday.
Angelokastro is a 13th-century hilltop fortress with breath-taking views near Paleokastritsa on the Greek island of Corfu in the Ionian Islands.
The Fortress of Angelokastro on Corfu
Perched precariously on a 305-meter-high (1,001 feet) cliff on the northwestern tip of Corfu, Angelokastro—the “Castle of Angels”—stands as one of the most significant Byzantine fortresses in Greece. For centuries, it served as a silent sentinel, guarding the Ionian Sea and providing a literal and metaphorical “rock” for the people of Corfu. Today, its ruins offer some of the most dramatic panoramic views in the Mediterranean, but beneath the crumbling stones lies a history of defiance and strategic brilliance.
Inside Angelokastro
Angelokastro: A History of “The Impregnable”
The exact origins of Angelokastro are shrouded in the mists of the early Middle Ages. Archaeological evidence suggests that the site was inhabited as early as the 5th to 7th centuries AD, likely as a small lookout post or a rudimentary Christian settlement. However, the fortress we see today began to take shape in the 12th and 13th centuries.
The castle’s name is often attributed to Michael I Komnenos Doukas (known as Michael Angelos), the Despot of Epirus, who captured Corfu in 1214. His son, Michael II, is credited with further fortifying the peak to protect the island’s western frontier after the Byzantine Empire lost its territories in southern Italy.
By 1386, the fortress came under the control of the Republic of Venice. Recognizing its strategic value, the Venetians designated Angelokastro as the official capital of Corfu from 1387 until the 16th century. It became the seat of the Proweditore Generale del Levante, the commander of the Venetian fleet. Throughout this era, the castle was part of a “defensive triangle” with the castles of Kassiopi in the northeast and Gardiki in the south, ensuring no enemy ship could approach the island undetected.
The Fortress of Angelokastro on Corfu
The Ultimate Refuge: A Fortress That Never Fell
What makes Angelokastro truly legendary is its record in battle: it was never conquered. Despite its isolation, it weathered countless sieges by pirates, Genoese mercenaries, and the formidable Ottoman Empire.
During the Great Siege of 1537, an Ottoman force of 25,000 soldiers attempted to take the fortress. While much of the island suffered, the garrison at Angelokastro—led by a handful of local Corfiots and Venetian soldiers—successfully repulsed the invaders. Similar feats occurred in 1571 and during the second Great Siege in 1716.
The fortress was designed specifically to serve as a refuge for the local peasant population. When the signal fires from the peak warned of approaching sails, villagers from the surrounding olive groves would abandon their homes and scramble up the steep path, bringing their livestock and supplies with them.
Ingenious Water Supply: To survive long sieges, the defenders relied on three massive underground cisterns carved into the rock. These tanks collected rainwater, ensuring the population wouldn’t be forced to surrender by thirst.
Churches in the Clouds: Within the walls, the spiritual needs of the refugees were met by the Church of the Archangel Michael, built atop the ruins of an Early Christian basilica. There is also a unique chapel dedicated to Agia Kyriaki, built directly into a cave, which still houses 18th-century frescoes.
The Hermit’s Caves: Beyond the military barracks, the site contains small cells carved into the cliffside, used by monks who sought solitude while performing the duty of watching the horizon for enemy sails.
The Fortress of Angelokastro on Corfu
How to Get to Angelokastro: Routes and Distances
Angelokastro is located near the village of Krini. The final approach involves a narrow, winding road that is not for the faint of heart, but the reward is incomparable.
How to Get to Angelokastro: Routes and Distances
1. From Paleokastritsa (The Scenic Shortcut)
If you are staying in the popular resort of Paleokastritsa, Angelokastro is almost literally “above” you, though the road takes a circuitous route to reach the summit.
Distance: Approximately 9.2 km (5.7 miles).
Driving Time: Roughly 15–20 minutes.
Route: Drive inland from the bay toward the main road (GR-24) and follow the signs for Lakones and Krini. You will climb through the famous “Bella Vista” viewpoints, which offer a bird’s-eye view of the heart-shaped bays of Paleokastritsa. Once you pass through the narrow streets of Krini, the road leads directly to a small parking area at the foot of the castle.
2. From Corfu Town (The Cross-Island Trek)
Traveling from Corfu Town takes you across the lush center of the island, transitioning from the Venetian urban architecture to the rugged limestone cliffs of the west.
Distance: Approximately 28 km (17.4 miles).
Driving Time: Roughly 45–55 minutes.
Route: Take the main road westward toward Paleokastritsa. Before reaching the coast, look for the right-hand turn toward Lakones or Makrades. This route will take you through the traditional “handicraft” villages of the hills before arriving at Krini.
Pro Tip: The road between Lakones and Krini is exceptionally narrow—often only wide enough for one car. If you encounter a bus or a local truck, you may need to reverse into a “pocket” or pull-off area. Driving during the early morning or late afternoon is recommended to avoid heavy traffic and the midday heat.
Tips for Visiting Angelokastro
The climb from the parking lot to the citadel takes about 10 to 15 minutes on a steep, stone-stepped path. It is essential to wear sturdy shoes, as the stones are worn smooth and can be slippery even in dry weather. It isn’t easy for anyone with mobility problems.
Entrance Fee: Typically just a few euros.
The View: From the summit, you can see the entire bay of Paleokastritsa, the Diapontia Islands to the north, and on clear days, the mountains of the Greek mainland and the coast of Albania.
Photography: The best light for photography is in the late afternoon, as the sun begins to dip toward the Ionian Sea, illuminating the fortress walls in a golden hue.
As the sun sets over the Ionian, casting long shadows across the ancient battlements, it is easy to see why the Byzantines believed this place was protected by angels. It remains a testament to Corfiot resilience—a jagged crown on an emerald island that refused to bow to empires.
One of the finest exhibits in the National Archaeological Museum in Athens (see pages 000-000) was hauled from the sea here off the northern corner of Evia. The stunning bronze statue of Poseidon was found by local fishermen in 1928, highly appropriate as he was the God of the Sea who lived on Evia. In 480BC the waters here were churned and tossed as it was the site of the Battle of Artemisium when the Persian fleet of King Xerxes defeated the Greeks before moving on to take Eretria, only to be finally defeated at Marathon.
Mount Ochi
At 1398m, Mt Ochi is the highest point in the south of Evia and is surrounded by lovely villages, both inland on its slopes and on the surrounding coasts. A popular hill village is Mýli, which overlooks Karystos near the Castello Rosso and is the setting-off point for those wishing to climb the mountain. This is a serious 4-hour hike, for which you will need to be fit and have a good map or guide, but your rewards will include exceptional views and the sight at the top of one of Evia’s so-called Dragon Houses.
These stone buildings are also found near Stýra, and named because it is thought that only dragons could have transported the huge stones to the high locations where the houses are built. Their purpose is not known for sure, but it is thought they may have been miniature temples for the worship of Poseidon, who made Evia his home.
Ochthonia
The hill village of Ochthonia is an atmospheric place, a more-prosperous past hinted at by the Neo-Classical mansions and ruined towers that can be seen as you walk the streets, and by the remains of the Frankish castle above the village. Down below on the coast are long stretches of sandy beach which are rather too remote to attract crowds in large numbers, so are good places to aim for if you like to sunbathe in seclusion.
Strya
On Evia’s west coast the port of Nea Stýra (New Styra) has ferry connections with Rafina on the mainland, and has developed into a small holiday resort especially popular with Athenians who can reach it very easily. It has a lovely, long sandy beach, which will be packed in midsummer, but at other times it would make a convenient base for a few days.
Climb inland for 5km and you reach the hill village of Styra itself, a quiet place most noted for having several examples of Evia’s ‘dragon houses’. These are just outside the town and are thought to date from the 6th century B.C. The fanciful theory that the vast stone blocks must have been transported by dragons is very likely to have had a more prosaic explanation in reality: that the stones were carried by slave labour.
Evia
Steni and Prokopi
The mountain village of Steni has developed into quite a thriving tourist town, brought on by its location at the foot of Evia’s highest point, Mt Dirfys (1740m). The peak naturally gives breathtaking views over the island, out to the Aegean and back towards the Greek mainland. It is also relatively accessible, provided you are reasonably fit, and it’s a good day out to take the four-hour walk to the summit and enjoy a picnic lunch at the top.
You will need a good map, but the walk begins at the end of the main road that runs through Steni, which peters out into a car park after about 3km. Follow the track, watching out for lazy Greeks who prefer to drive up as far as they can go, and look for the turning to the left which is clearly signposted: Fountain of Liri Refuge. From the Refuge another track marked with dabs of red paint on rocks leads in a straightforward if demanding manner to the summit.
Prokopi is another mountain village, this one overlooked by the highest point in the north of the island, Mt Kandili (1361m). The drive on pages 000-000 passes through Prokopi, where it is well worth breaking the journey. Many pilgrims do so in order to visit the church of Agios Ioannis o Rosos, which contain the remains of St John the Russian, who was in fact a Ukrainian. He served in the Tsar’s army, was captured by the Turks, made a slave and then killed by the Turks in the town of Prokopi in central Turkey. With the exchange of populations in 1923, his devoted followers brought his bones to Greece, and they named their new settlement Prokopi and built a church to house the relics. You may see Russian Orthodox visitors here too, as St John was also canonised by the Russian Orthodox faith, in 1962.
Loutra Aidipsou and Limni
Loutra Gialtron and Loutra Adipsou
At the remote northwestern end of Evia is a beautiful wide bay surrounded by wooded slopes, with spa resorts sitting on either side of the mouth. The smaller Loutra Gialtron is a pretty harbour town with an old windmill and a decent beach, and with access to even better beaches out towards the extreme northwestern tip of the island.
Across the bay, Loutra Aidipsou is the largest spa town in Greece and renowned for its sulphur springs, bringing visitors flocking here every summer at the prospect of being made young and beautiful. It is not the best time of year to turn up without accommodation booked. At other times, the summer demands of visitors means that there is ample accommodation (many hotels have their own hot springs) and you can enjoy its excellent beach and the picturesque charm of a working fishing harbour, with the prospect of making day trips to the Sporades (see pages 000-000).
By contrast, Limni is a fairly quiet fishing village, which is starting to wake up to the tourist trade, but it lacks the good beaches of Loutra Gialtron, Loutra Aidipsou and some other Evia resorts. For the moment, then, it remains a low-key Greek village of whitewashed red-tiled houses, boats bobbing in the harbour, 19th century mansions built from past maritime wealth and a relaxing waterfront with cafes and tavernas.
More energetic visitors make the 8km-walk to the Byzantine monastery of Moni Galataki, the oldest on Evia, with remains going back to the 13th century though most buildings date from the 16th. Its church has frescoes that also date from the 16th century, several of which have survived in vivid detail, including a Last Judgement so frightening it would turn anyone onto the path of righteousness. The monastery was deserted for many years but reinstated as a convent in the 1940s and is still inhabited by nuns today. There are no formal opening hours but anyone arriving in the mornings or early afternoon will be welcome to look around, if respectably dressed.
Karystos and Kymi
Karystos
Almost at the southern tip of Evia, Karystos is an attractive town of mainly modern origin, having been built up only after the War of Independence. The first King of modern Greece, Otto, liked the situation so much that he modestly renamed the town after himself, Othonoupolis, decided it would be the new capital of Greece, invited a Bavarian architect to create a grand town plan of long, wide streets lined with mansions, but not long after this first stage was completed, Otto was gone and Karystos reclaimed its name and kept the streets. Today it is one of the destination points for the ferries from Rafina on the mainland, making it rather busy, especially in summer, but in an appealing, lively way.
Dominating the town is the Castello Rosso, a massive medieval fortress that looks over modern Karystos from the site of the ancient acropolis. Nothing much remains inside the fortress, which gets it name from its ruddy-coloured walls, but it gives good views back down over the town and further inland to Mt Ochi (1398m).
Kymi
Kymi on Evia
There is quite a good Folk Museum at Karystos, but an even better one at Kymi, a town halfway along Evia’s northern coast. The museum here has fascinating displays on local life, with an extensive collection of local costumes and embroideries, and much of the fascination coming from a large collection of old photographs showing life in the last century in this quiet rural place, set among vineyards and orchards. Its sleepy nature and remote location belie its rich past, evident from the fine 19th century mansions which line some of the streets, the wealth coming from a combination of local silk production and international maritime trade.
Kymi also has a lovely church dedicated to the Panagia Koimisis, containing a very rare 7th-century icon of the Madonna and Child, while north of the town is the dramatically situated clifftop monastery of Moni Sotira, built in the 17th century and still inhabited today by a small number of nuns. Note that men are not admitted.
See Greece lists Greece’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites from the first, Bassae, to the latest, Zagori, plus the Acropolis, Delphi, Mycenae and more.
Rhodes Old Town
How many UNESCO World Heritage Sites there are in the whole of Greece? A quick look at the UNESCO website shows that there are 19 of them as of the end of 2025. Reading down the list made us appreciate how lucky we’ve been to have seen almost all of them, in our years of travel around Greece. We’ll have to put Patmos and Chios on our travel plans for this year – two we’re missing!
Bassae
The Temple of Apollo Epikourios at Bassae on the Peloponnese in Greece
The first to be included on the list, which began in 1978, was the remarkable Temple of Apollo Epicurius at Bassae (or Vassae). This was added in 1986. It’s in a remote spot in the Peloponnese, and we were fortunate enough to see it while researching a guidebook to Mainland Greece. It’s covered in a huge canopy to protect it during restoration work, but you can peek inside it. See our full page on the Temple of Bassae.
Acropolis
The Acropolis in Athens was added to the list in 1987. Read more about it here.
Delphi
Ruins of Apollo Temple at Delphi
Delphi was also added to UNESCO’s list in 1987. Read our page about Delphi here.
In 1990 it was the turn of Delos and the monasteries of Daphni, Ossios Loukas and Nea Moni on Chios to join Greece’s ever-growing list of World Heritage Sites.
Samos
In 1992 UNESCO recognised the ancient sites of Pythagoreion and Heraion on Samos.
Vergina
Royal Tombs at Vergina
In 1996 the Archaeological Site and Royal Tombs at Vergina joined the list.
Patmos, Mycenae, and Tiryns
The Lion Gate at Mycenae
1999 saw three more places in Greece added to UNESCO’s list. They were the archaeological sites of Mycenae and Tiryns, along with the Historic Centre (Chorá), the Monastery of Saint-John the Theologian, and the Cave of the Apocalypse all on Patmos.
Old Town of Corfu
Narrow Streets of the Old Town of Corfu
2007 was the year that the lovely Old Town of Corfu was added to UNESCO’s list. Anyone who’s spent time wandering round its streets will understand why.
Philippi
The Ancient Site at Philippi in Macedonia
The addition of Philippi to UNESCO’s list in Greece was in 2016.
Zagori Cultural Landscape
Stone Bridge in Zagoria
Greece’s newest cultural site of Zagori was added in 2023 and was recognised for its traditional stone-built villages (Zagorochoria) and arched bridges nestled in the Pindus Mountains.
Greekality is a new company offering food tours in Athens including street food tours, wine and nightlife tours, vegan tours and cooking classes.
Athens Street Food Tour with Greekality
Greekality is a company based in Athens and founded by Marina Tsikou to do food tours in Athens. Marina had worked in the travel industry in Greece for many years and was frustrated by the fact that some visitors might come to Greece from half-way around the world, only to dine in tourist traps and never experience the wide range of wonderful Greek food (and wine and spirits) available.
Athens Food Tours with Greekality
Marina decided to follow her heart and her own passion for food and set up Greekality, so that visitors – and locals – could find authentically Greek places to eat and drink – and to learn to cook some of Greece’s great dishes. Greekality also offers specialist tours, such as street food tours and tours for vegans. Being a vegan in Greece isn’t always easy!
Greekality’s Food Tours in Athens
Athens Food Tours with Greekality
Vegan Tours in Athens
Let’s start with those vegan tours. Not that I’m a vegan but I have many friends who are and dining for them isn’t always easy in countries like Greece and Italy, where meat and fish are seen as a natural part of anyone’s diet.
Yet surprisingly, ancient Greece gave birth to the vegan diet, thanks to the teachings of Pythagoras. Known by schoolchildren everywhere for the mathematical Pythagoras Theorem, he was also a scientist and philosopher. He believed that killing animals for their meat brutalised the human soul and people should enjoy instead a plant-based diet.
Greekality’s Vegan Tour of Athens highlights the many vegan restaurants that now exist in Athens, which Forbes rates as one of the top ten cities in the world for vegan cuisine. You’ll enjoy a vegan moussaka, and learn where to find the best vegan street food.
Street Food Tours in Athens
Athens Street Food Tour with Greekality
Vegan or otherwise, Athens has some of the best street food in Europe. This 3-hour tour has a maximum of twelve people and is especially good for families. Children don’t have to sit down and behave themselves for an hour or more!
The tour starts in a pie shop where you can sample two of our own favourite Greek street foods: tiropita (cheese pie) or spanakopita (spinach-feta pie). Just seeing the words makes me want them right now. You’ll also sample peinirli (a kind of Greek pizza), and then on to loukoumades and other oh-so-sweet Greek desserts. This tour is also suitable for vegetarians.
Greek Cookery Class
Cooking Class with Greekality
Having sampled so much good Greek food you’ll want to learn how to make some of it for yourself at home. This 3-hour cookery class is with a Cordon Bleu Athenian chef, who will help you prepare a 4-course meal which you then naturally sit down and enjoy. When you arrive you’ll enjoy some Greek nibbles while the chef talks you through the menu and explains how things will work.
Here’s the usual menu, although of course there may be changes with the seasons:
Starter: Greek pasta (hilopites) with eggs and mizithra cheese – a recipe from the chef’s grandmother.
Salad: Local greens or string beans, with baked tomatoes & extra virgin olive oil vinaigrette.
Main: Lamb or beef in red tomato sauce with trahana (Greek frumenty) – the ultimate Greek comfort dish.
Dessert: A light and creamy yoghurt panna cotta made with Greek yoghurt and honey.
Drinks: Greek wine made of native grape varieties.
Other Food Tours in Athens
Athens Street Food Tour with Greekality
Other tours on offer include a Taste Athens Greek Food Tour, taking you round the best foodie areas of Athens; Athens Wine Tasting Tour and Nightlife, which speaks for itself; and an Athens Premium Gastronomic Tour, with top food, wine tastings, and ending with cocktails in a rooftop bar with Acropolis views.
Wine Tasting and Nightlife Food Tour in Athens
Greekality also has private food and wine themed day trips from Athens, which include the Athenian Riviera, a trip to Corinth for tastings of olive oil, wine and local products, and a visit to the island of Aegina, which includes a feast of fresh seafood. You can also book a 6-day foodie tour of the Peloponnese, and having seen the itinerary we can tell right away that it’s going to be a very special experience.
More Information on Food Tours in Athens
Visit the excellent website of Greekality for dates and prices.
Discover the Athens Museum of Cycladic Art, home to world-famous prehistoric figurines & ancient Greek treasures in the stunning Neoclassical Stathatos Mansion.
Athens Museum of Cycladic Art
In the elegant Athens neighborhood of Kolonaki, where the bustle of central Athens gives way to leafy streets and Neoclassical facades, stands the Museum of Cycladic Art. While Athens is often defined by the monumental scale of the Parthenon, this museum celebrates the beauty of the miniature and the abstract. It is home to one of the most important private collections of prehistoric art in the world, specifically focusing on the enigmatic marble figurines of the Cyclades islands.
The museum is a masterclass in how ancient history can feel strikingly modern. Its clean lines and minimalist presentation mirror the very artifacts it houses, creating an experience that feels less like a dusty archive and more like a contemporary art gallery.
Athens Museum of Cycladic Art
History of the Athens Museum of Cycladic Art
The museum owes its existence to the vision of Nikolaos and Dolly Goulandris. In the early 1960s, the couple began collecting Greek antiquities with a particular fascination for the 3rd millennium BC culture of the Cyclades. At the time, these primitive marble idols were not as widely appreciated as Classical Greek statues, but the Goulandris couple recognized their unique aesthetic value.
As their collection grew, it gained international acclaim, eventually touring major institutions like the National Gallery in Washington, D.C. In 1981, following the death of Nikolaos, Dolly Goulandris established the Nicholas P. Goulandris Foundation. The museum officially opened its doors on January 26, 1986. Today, it has grown from a private passion project into a world-class institution dedicated to the study and promotion of Aegean and Cypriot civilizations.
Athens Museum of Cycladic Art
Where Is the Athens Museum of Cycladic Art?
The museum is uniquely split between two distinct but interconnected buildings on Neophytou Douka Street, just a short walk from Syntagma Square and the National Garden.
1. The Main Building: Designed by architect Ioannis Vikelas in 1985, this modern structure features a facade of glass and white marble—materials synonymous with the Cyclades. It houses the permanent collections across four floors.
2. The Stathatos Mansion: One of Athens’ most beautiful Neoclassical landmarks, this 1895 mansion was designed by the Bavarian architect Ernst Ziller. Originally the home of Otto and Athena Stathatos, it now serves as the museum’s wing for temporary exhibitions. The two buildings are joined by a sleek, glass-roofed corridor that allows visitors to transition between the 19th and 20th centuries in a single walk.
Athens Museum of Cycladic Art
What to See: The Permanent Collections
The museum is organized chronologically and thematically, leading visitors through the evolution of art in the Eastern Mediterranean. 1. Cycladic Art (The Star Attraction)
Located on the first floor, this is the museum’s heart. Here, you will find over 350 objects from the Early Cycladic period (3200–2000 BC).
• The Figurines: These are the world-famous idols—flat, marble figures with folded arms and tilted heads. Their lack of facial features (originally painted with bright colors) and abstract geometry famously inspired 20th-century masters like Picasso, Modigliani, and Brancusi.
• The Cup-bearer: One of the most famous pieces in the collection is a rare seated male figure holding a cup, a masterpiece of 3rd-millennium BC sculpture.
• The Dove Vase: A stunning marble plate adorned with 16 carved doves, representing the incredible craftsmanship of a society that worked without metal tools.
Athens Museum of Cycladic Art
2. Ancient Greek Art: A History in Images
The second and fourth floors transition into the historical periods of Greece.
• Daily Life: The fourth floor is particularly engaging for families and casual history buffs. It uses artifacts to reconstruct ‘Scenes from Daily Life in Antiquity’, covering themes like marriage, childhood, athletics, and war.
• Technology and Trade: You can see intricate gold jewelry, bronze helmets, and both black- and red-figure vases that tell stories of gods and heroes while showcasing the technological leaps made in pottery and metallurgy.
Athens Museum of Cycladic Art
3. Cypriot Antiquities
The third floor houses one of the largest collections of Cypriot art outside of Cyprus.
• Cultural Crossroads: Because Cyprus sat at the intersection of the Greek, Egyptian, and Near Eastern worlds, the art here is remarkably eclectic. Look for the unique plank-shaped terracotta figurines and the elaborate limestone sculptures that show a distinct blend of Eastern and Western styles.
Visiting the Athens Museum of Cycladic Art
The Museum of Cycladic Art is designed to be accessible. Each floor features high-tech interactive screens that explain the social context of the items on display—how they were made, who used them, and why.
Athens Museum of Cycladic Art Cafe
The Cycladic Café
No visit is complete without a stop at the museum’s café. Tucked away in the atrium of the main building, it’s an architectural gem in its own right. With a floating ceiling that allows natural light to filter through and walls of lush greenery, it offers a serene escape from the city. The menu focuses on modern Cycladic flavors, making it a perfect spot for a light lunch.
Athens Museum of Cycladic Art Shop
The Museum Shop
If you are looking for a souvenir that isn’t a plastic magnet, the museum shop is one of the best in Athens. It sells high-quality replicas of the Cycladic figurines made by master craftsmen, as well as contemporary jewelry and design objects inspired by ancient forms.
Why It Matters
The Athens Museum of Cycladic Art proves that old does not mean outdated. By focusing on the purity of form and the early roots of human creativity, it offers a bridge between the prehistoric past and modern aesthetic sensibilities. Whether you’re an art student or a curious traveler, the museum provides a quiet, profound space to reflect on the beginnings of Western art.
Explore the Athens Byzantine and Christian Museum, a journey through 25,000 artifacts, stunning icons, and the historic Villa Ilissia.
Athens Byzantine and Christian Museum
In the heart of modern Athens, tucked away on the grand Vassilissis Sofias Avenue, lies one of the city’s most significant yet tranquil cultural treasures: the Byzantine and Christian Museum. While many visitors flock to the Acropolis to witness the glory of Classical antiquity, this museum offers a profound journey into the millennium that followed—the era of the Byzantine Empire and the subsequent centuries of Christian art.
Housed in a 19th-century mansion and a sophisticated underground complex, the museum preserves over 25,000 artifacts dating from the 3rd to the 20th century. It is not merely a collection of religious objects; it is a narrative of how the Greek-speaking world transitioned from the pagan Roman Empire to a Christian superpower, and finally into the modern Greek state.
Athens Byzantine and Christian Museum
Location and Origins
The museum’s physical setting is as storied as its contents. It is located in the Villa Ilissia, a stunning complex built in 1848 for Sophie de Marbois-Lebrun, the Duchess of Plaisance. Born in Philadelphia and married to a French statesman, the Duchess was a colorful and influential figure in early modern Athens. Her villa, designed by the renowned architect Stamatios Kleanthis, is a masterpiece of Neoclassical and Romantic styles, featuring marble revetments and arched porticos that overlook what was once the banks of the Ilissos River.
The museum itself was founded in 1914, emerging from the efforts of the Christian Archaeological Society. After being moved between several temporary locations, it finally found its permanent home in the Villa Ilissia in 1930. In 2004, to coincide with the Athens Olympics, the museum underwent a massive expansion. While the Duchess’s original villa still stands as a focal point, the majority of the collection is now housed in a vast 12,000-square-meter underground wing, designed to lead visitors on a chronological and thematic journey through time.
Athens Byzantine and Christian Museum
The Collections: A Thousand Years of Transformation
The museum’s permanent exhibition is divided into two major sections: The Byzantine World (4th–15th century) and From Byzantium to the Modern Era (15th–20th century).
1. From Antiquity to Byzantium
As you descend into the exhibition space, the first section explores the birth of Byzantine art. This was a period of monumental shift, as the Roman Empire became Christianized.
Architectural Fragments: You will see massive marble capitals, lintels, and floor mosaics from early Christian basilicas. One of the highlights is a reconstruction of a 5th-century Christian Basilica, which helps visitors visualize the scale and grandeur of early places of worship.
Early Christian Sculpture: Notable exhibits include the Good Shepherd and Orpheus statuettes from the 4th century. These are fascinating because they show how early Christians borrowed pagan imagery to represent their new faith—Christ is depicted as a young, beardless shepherd in a style nearly indistinguishable from Classical Roman art.
Athens Byzantine and Christian Museum
2. The Byzantine World (The Golden Age)
This section delves into the height of the empire, where art was almost entirely focused on the divine. The museum’s collection of Byzantine Icons is world-renowned.
Icons and Wall Paintings: Visitors can view rare 13th- and 14th-century icons that showcase the evolution of the Byzantine style—the move away from realistic depth toward a two-dimensional, spiritual abstraction characterized by golden backgrounds and elongated figures.
Minor Arts and Everyday Life: Beyond the icons, there are displays of intricate jewelry, bronze lamps, and pottery. These items remind us that Byzantium was not just a church; it was a living society with bustling markets and high-fashion tastes.
The Tree of Life Relief: Look for the 9th-century marble relief carving of the Tree of Life, a beautiful example of mid-Byzantine decorative sculpture.
Athens Byzantine and Christian Museum
3. From Byzantium to the Modern Era
After the Fall of Constantinople in 1453, Greek culture did not disappear; it evolved under Ottoman and Venetian rule.
The Cretan School: A major highlight of this section is the display of icons from the Cretan School, where the Byzantine tradition met the influence of the Italian Renaissance. You can see the works of master painters who influenced (or were influenced by) artists like El Greco.
The Ionian School: This represents a further shift toward Western European styles, with icons that use oil paints and three-dimensional perspective, reflecting the cultural life of the Ionian Islands.
Athens Byzantine and Christian Museum
What to See: The Visitor Experience
The museum is designed for slow exploration. Unlike the crowded halls of the National Archaeological Museum, the Byzantine and Christian Museum offers a meditative atmosphere.
The Garden of the Duchess
Before or after your tour of the galleries, spend time in the Museum Gardens. This urban oasis features three small themed outdoor exhibitions:
The Well-Cistern: An exploration of how Athens managed its water supply from antiquity to today.
Paradise: A garden layout reflecting the Byzantine concept of Paradise as a walled garden of peace.
The River Ilissos: A tribute to the river that once flowed past the villa.
Athens Byzantine and Christian Museum
Highlights Not to Miss
The Episkopi Wall Paintings: An entire 17th-century frescoed church interior from Evrytania has been relocated and reconstructed inside the museum, allowing you to step inside a historical place of worship.
Manuscripts and Textiles: The museum houses delicate illuminated manuscripts and liturgical vestments (Epitaphioi) embroidered with gold and silver thread, showcasing the incredible craftsmanship of Byzantine nuns and monks.
The Cafe-Bistro: Often cited as one of the best museum cafes in Athens, it sits in the garden and offers a perfect spot to process the centuries of history you’ve just witnessed.
Athens Byzantine and Christian Museum Cafe-Bistro
Practical Information
Address: 22 Vassilissis Sofias Avenue.
Getting There: Take the Metro (Line 3) to Evangelismos. The museum is just a two-minute walk from the station.
Accessibility: The underground wing is fully accessible via elevators and ramps, and there is a tactile route available for blind visitors.
The Athens Byzantine and Christian Museum is more than just a repository of religious art; it is a bridge between the ancient world and the modern Greek identity. It captures a millennium of survival, faith, and artistic innovation that defined the Eastern Mediterranean.
