Driving on Crete is the best way to see Greece’s biggest island and here is our driving advice and some information about Greek driving regulations.
Note: Tthis advice was correct at the time of writing but you should always double-check if you’re planning on driving in Crete, or anywhere else in Greece. A good place to start is the RAC’s Driving in Greece page. rac.co.uk
Crete Road Bridge
Driving on Crete: General Advice
Most of the main roads on Crete are of a good standard, the best being the E75 highway that links towns along Crete’s north coast. This is invariably signposted as the New Road, and is also called the National Highway.
Off the main road standards vary enormously, and even on major roads you should watch out for unexpected pot-holes or rock-fall.
On many main roads the right-hand ‘lane’ is not a proper lane but a wide shoulder, and is used for pulling into when a car wishes to overtake. Make sure you can see well ahead, however, as this can be dangerous round bends.
It is always best to ask locally about road conditions, as roads which may appear to be good roads on maps can turn out to be rough tracks.
Greece has the second-worst record in Europe for deaths on the road. Many drivers like to drive down the middle of the road, even when coming round blind bends. Keep well in to your side of the road. Reckless overtaking is common, also on blind bends.
Another driver flashing his headlights at you means that he is coming through, NOT that he is giving way to you. If you’re simply driving along and an oncoming driver flashes his headlights, this is a common signal that there is a police speed trap ahead of you.
The beeping of horns is very common. This can be something as simple as the driver seeing a friend walking by, or totting as he passes a relative’s shop, so don’t assume any sound of the horn is directed at you.
Road on Crete
Driving on Crete: Essentials
Drive on the right.
Wearing seatbelts where fitted is compulsory, but many locals ignore this rule. Don’t be tempted to emulate them.
Children under ten must not sit in the front seat.
Drink-driving is a serious offence. A blood-alcohol level of only 0.05% means a heavy instant fine, and over 0.08% is a criminal offence and can lead to imprisonment. The police sometimes set up random breath-testing checkpoints.
The speed limit is 120kph on highways, 90kph on other main roads and 50kph in urban areas. These may vary slightly so watch for the speed-limit signs.
Vehicles coming from the right have right of way, including on roundabouts.
Road Hazard on Crete
Car Hire
Rates in Crete are higher than the European average, but local firms tend to under-cut the major international names.
In theory an international driving licence is required but in practice a valid national driving licence will usually suffice.
Minimum age varies from 21 to 25 depending on the company’s policy.
Rates usually include third-party insurance and unlimited mileage, but it is advisable to take out additional coverage for CDW (Collision Damage Waiver) insurance. This means the rental company agrees not to charge you if the car is damaged or stolen while in your possession
Rental companies will usually ask for a deposit using a credit card slip, or in cash.
If hiring in late summer or autumn, it may be worth paying extra for a recognised name such as Hertz or Europcar, whose vehicles probably have a better service record over the busy summer months.
All main towns and tourist resorts, and airports, have several car hire companies competing for business.
The End of the Road on Crete
Driving on Crete: Breakdowns
Car rental companies will provide an emergency number to contact. Alternatively, dial 104 for emergency help anywhere on Crete, or dial 174 purely for information.
Bringing Your Own Car
You are allowed to take your own car to Crete for a period of up to six months or until the tax or insurance expires.
These rules change regularly on Crete so check with a motoring organisation in your own country for up-to-date information.
Cretan music is part of the island’s soul and visitors will hear live music wherever they go, with several distinctive Cretan musical instruments and songs.
‘Tell me with a laugh, tell me with a cry, Tell me you do not love me: What care I?’
Even the great Cretan novelist Nikos Kazantzakis wrote song lyrics, so deeply embedded is music in the Cretan soul. The above extract is from the most common type of Cretan song, the mantinada. These are rhyming couplets containing 15 syllables, often expressing extremes of joy and sadness. The form goes back to the 5th century BC but shows later western and especially eastern influences. During Venetian rule in Crete, many musicians came to the island from Constantinople and beyond.
Cretan music is one of Greece’s richest and most distinctive traditions, blending ancient roots with vibrant modern expression. It is characterized by unique instruments like the lyra and laouto, poetic song forms such as mantinades, and legendary musicians including Nikos Xylouris and Psarantonis.
🎶Origins and Cultural Significance
Cretan music, known locally as kritika, is deeply woven into the island’s identity. It is not just entertainment but a living tradition that accompanies weddings, feasts, and village gatherings. Its roots stretch back to antiquity, influenced by Byzantine chant and the wider Eastern Mediterranean. Improvisation is central: musicians often embellish melodies spontaneously, while dancers invent new steps in response.
Cretan Music Shop
🎻 Instruments of Cretan Music
Several instruments define the sound of Crete:
Cretan Lyra: A three-stringed bowed instrument, often considered the “voice” of Crete. Traditionally made of mulberry wood, it produces a piercing, expressive tone that carries mantinades (poetic couplets).
Laouto: A long-necked lute that provides rhythmic and harmonic support. Played with a plectrum, it often accompanies the lyra.
Mandolin: Introduced later, it adds melodic richness and is sometimes used for solo performances.
Askomandoura: A traditional bagpipe made of goatskin, linked to pastoral life.
Violin: In some regions, the violin replaced or complemented the lyra, especially in western Crete.
Together, these instruments create a sound that is both earthy and transcendent, capable of stirring deep emotion and lively dance.
🪕 Types of Songs and Forms
Cretan music encompasses several forms, each tied to social life:
Mantinades: Short, improvised rhyming couplets sung with lyra accompaniment. They express love, sorrow, humor, or philosophy.
Erotokritos: A long narrative poem set to music, recounting tales of romance and chivalry.
DanceSongs: Music is inseparable from dance. Famous dances include:
Pentozali: A fast, vigorous war dance symbolizing resilience.
Syrtos: A slower, flowing dance emphasizing grace.
Sousta: A lively couple’s dance, often flirtatious.
Rizitika: Heroic songs from the mountainous regions, often sung without instruments, celebrating bravery and freedom.
These forms reflect the island’s history of struggle, love of beauty, and communal spirit.
🌟Famous Cretan Musicians
Cretan music has been shaped by generations of masters. Here are some of the most influential:
Nikos Xylouris (1936–1980) Known as the “Archangel of Crete,” Nikos Xylouris is perhaps the most beloved Greek musician of the 20th century. Born in the mountain village of Anogia, he possessed a voice of startling power and clarity. Xylouris bridged the gap between traditional folk music and the modern political song. During the Greek military junta (1967–1974), his songs became anthems of resistance. His rendition of the Rizitiko song “Pote Tha Kanei Xasteria” (When Will the Sky Clear) became a revolutionary slogan. He died young at the age of 43, but his recordings remain the gold standard of Cretan vocal performance, embodying the “leventia” (gallant bravery) of the island.
Kostas Mountakis (1926–1991) If Xylouris was the voice, Kostas Mountakis was the “Teacher.” Hailing from the Rethymno region, Mountakis is credited with popularizing the lyra beyond the island’s borders. He was instrumental in establishing a pedagogical method for the instrument, ensuring that the tradition was passed down systematically rather than just aurally. His playing style was clean, melodic, and dignified. Mountakis focused on the lyrical beauty of the music, and his compositions remain essential repertoire for any student of the lyra. He ensured that the instrument was respected as a tool of high art, not just village entertainment.
Thanasis Skordalos (1920–1998) A contemporary of Mountakis, Skordalos represented a different approach. His playing was known for its technical brilliance and rhythmic precision. While Mountakis was often associated with the lyrical side of Cretan music, Skordalos was the master of the dance. His bow work was fierce and intricate, capable of driving dancers to exhaustion. He introduced new tunings and melodic phrasings that expanded the capabilities of the lyra, influencing generations of players who sought to emulate his unparalleled dexterity.
Psarantonis (Antonis Xylouris) The younger brother of Nikos Xylouris, Psarantonis is a living legend who has taken Cretan music into avant-garde territory. His style is primal, often described as “dionysian.” He deconstructs traditional melodies, playing with a raw, scratching timbre and using the lyra to create atmospheric soundscapes that mimic the wind and the mountains. His voice, a deep, growling bass, contrasts sharply with the soaring tenors of traditional singers. Psarantonis is an icon of the “world music” scene, collaborating with artists from Nick Cave to classical ensembles, proving that Cretan music can be both ancient and radically experimental.
These musicians embody the continuity and evolution of Cretan music, passing the tradition from one generation to the next while expanding its horizons.
🕊️ Themes and Symbolism of Cretan Music
Cretan songs often reflect themes of freedom, love, and resilience. Rizitika songs celebrate resistance against Ottoman rule, while mantinades capture everyday emotions. The Pentozali dance, with its vigorous leaps, symbolizes defiance and vitality. Music thus serves as both personal expression and collective memory.
Cretan Music Shop
✨Conclusion
Cretan music is a living art form, balancing tradition and innovation. Its instruments—the lyra, laouto, and askomandoura—create a soundscape that is both ancient and modern. Its songs—mantinades, rizitika, and dance tunes—express the soul of Crete. And its musicians, from Nikos Xylouris to Psarantonis and Ross Daly, ensure that this heritage continues to inspire audiences worldwide.
What was daily life as a Minoan like on Crete, living in palaces like the ones at Knossos, Malia, Phaistos, and Zakros, and what were their religious beliefs?
The Throne Room at Knossos Minoan Palace
Greece may be the birthplace of the Olympic Games, but long before the first torch was carried through a stadium in classical times, Cretan athletes awed the crowds by turning somersaults over the horns of charging bulls.
Europe’s First Civilisation
Crete was the home of Europe’s first civilisation, which flourished here from around 3000 BC until 1100 BC. Amazingly, it lay hidden until, the 20th century, when the English archaeologist Sir Arthur Evans began excavating Knossos.
He called this ancient race the Minoans, after the mythical Greek King Minos. It seems, however, that Minos was a title, not a personal name, rather like the Egyptian Pharoah, and at least 22 rulers bore this name.
These priest-kings built impressive palaces – Knossos, Phaistos, Malia, and Zakros are the largest discovered to date – where they presided over a rich, artistic culture that was highly ritualistic
Bull-Leaping
Minoan vase showing bull-leaping
The Minoans loved games and athletic contests. Bull-leaping satisfied both their appetite for sport and their religious obligation. The athletes would grab a charging bull by the horns, somersault over its back, and land on their feet with arms raised in victory. Both men and women took part in these dramatic feats, which required great courage, agility, and skill.
Impossible? Spanish bullfighters claim that it is, and some scholars believe that the bull-leaping scenes featured in Minoan frescoes may be only symbolic. Indeed, bulls had a strong religious significance in Minoan society. They represented virility and were depicted on vases and in figurines, and enormous sculpted ‘horns of consecration’ adorned the palace walls.
Minoan vase showing bull-leaping
Ceremonial drinking vessels called rhytons were carved in the shape of a bull’s head. In sacrificial rites thought to be connected to agricultural cycles, a bull was captured and bound, its throat cut, and its blood drained into these sacred cups. This ritual honoured the bull and connected the Minoans to its divine life force.
Bull-leaping, whether or not it actually occurred, may have symbolised the triumph of man over the unpredictable forces of nature.
Life as Art
Much of what we know about the Minoans has been gleaned from their beautiful artworks. Impressive frescoes once decorated the walls of the palaces showing, people, animals, and scenes of daily Minoan life.
The paintings, incorporating movement and sensuality, were skilfully executed in vibrant colours made from plants, minerals, and shellfish. The artists painted women’s skin white and men’s red. We therefore know from the frescoes that women played an important role in society.
Exquisite sculptures, pottery, mosaics, and decorative arts suggest that the Minoans lived an ancient version of the ‘good life’. Their palace homes had roof terraces, light wells, baths, and sophisticated plumbing systems. They were well fed, with huge granaries and giant vessels, called pithoi, to store wine and olive oil.
The Minoans were also great seafarers, trading their agricultural produce far and wide to acquire copper and tin to make bronze, and gold, silver and precious stones to make jewellery and works of art.
One of the most curious facts about their palaces is that they were built without fortifications, suggesting the Minoans lived peacefully and did not fear enemies. At their height, the Minoans are thought to have numbered over two million people, a figure four times greater than the population of Crete today!
Catastrophic Ending
This great civilisation came to a sudden end around 1450 BC when some unknown catastrophe occurred that destroyed all the palaces at the same time. Many scholars believe that the volcanic eruption on the nearby island of Santorini created a deluge of tidal waves, earthquakes, and fires on Crete, which could explain the charred remains found at some of the palaces.
Others favour theories of outside invaders, such as the Mycenaeans, or an internal rebellion against the palace rulers. Whatever the cause, within about 200 years the Minoans had all but disappeared, though the reason may always remain a mystery.
The Legend of the Minotaur
The Minotaur
Poseidon, god of the sea, sent King Minos a white bull, but when he later requested that it be sacrificed, Minos could not bring himself to kill the beautiful animal. In revenge, the angry god caused the king’s wife, Pasiphae, to fall in love with the bull and their mating produced the Minotaur, a hideous creature with a bull’s head and a man’s body.
Minos kept the monster in a labyrinth beneath the palace, and every nine years fourteen youths were shipped from Athens and fed to the Minotaur.
When Theseus, son of the king of Athens, heard of this he vowed to stop the slaughter. Volunteering to be one of the victims, he entered the palace and then seduced Minos’s daughter, Ariadne, who gave him a sword and a ball of thread to enable him to find the bull, kill it, and then retrace his way out of the labyrinth.
The Snake Goddess
The Snake Goddess
Another potent Minoan religious figure was that of the Snake Goddess, a woman holding a snake in each hand. Her bare breasts symbolised fertility while the snake, which sheds its skin, symbolises healing and rebirth.
The Double Axe
The double axe was also a dual symbol, representing both the waxing and the waning of the moon and the religious and political power of the priest-king.
The Minoan Ages
Chronologically, archaeologists break down the Minoan civilisation into four main periods:
Pre-Palace Period (2600-1900 BC). Bronze Age culture develops on Crete. Old Palace Period (1900-1700 BC). First Minoan palaces are built but are destroyed by earthquakes. New Palace Period (1700-1450 BC). Grand new palaces are built and the civilisation reaches its height before a great catastrophe, possibly a tsunami, destroyed all the palaces simultaneously. Post Palace Period (1450-1100 BC). After the destruction, Minoan civilisation declines as the Mycenaeans move in.
See Greece’s guide to visiting Phaistos or Faistos, the site of one of the finest Minoan palaces on Crete and where the mysterious Phaistos Disc was found.
Phaistos Minoan Palace
The Minoan Palace at Phaistos in southern Crete is felt by many to be a far more enjoyable site to visit than the better-known Knossos. It stands on a hill overlooking the fertile Messara Plain, and the fact that it has not been reconstructed like Knossos allows visitors to reconstruct the Palace in the best possible way: in the imagination. To see the large Central Court, the royal apartments, the Grand Staircase and the nondescript spot where the fabulous Phaistos Disc was found all make for a memorable experience.
The Approach to Phaistos
The approach to Phaistos is part of its charm, especially if you have already seen Knossos. There are no parking attendants here trying to lure you into their parking lots, just a small car park at the end of a zig-zag climb up a little hill. You then walk along the approach to the site to buy a ticket, little knowing what lies ahead. You enter the site beyond the very good bookshop, souvenir store and café, and are greeted with a good overall view of the layout.
Phaistos Minoan Palace
The History of Phaistos
It is thought that good views were also part of the original attraction of Phaistos for its inhabitants, with the Palace constructed in a way that makes the most of them. Prior to that there were other people enjoying the setting, as deposits have been found going back to Neolithic and Early Minoan periods (3000-2000BC). The views have probably changed very little since then, though the buildings have.
The first palace on the site dated from about 1900BC and is known as the Old Palace, with some of its remains still here. It was destroyed and repaired twice before its ultimate destruction in an earthquake in 1700BC, to be replaced by the New Palace, which remained in use until 1450BC and the end of the Minoan civilisation. The Old Palace remains are mostly on the western edge of the site, overshadowed by the much finer remnants of the New Palace.
Phaistos Minoan Palace
Exploring the Palace
The first open space you come to, the West Court, is a good place to try to picture the palace as it would have been. Go down into the Court and look towards the easily-recognisable Grand Staircase. To the right of this are the remains of the western façade of the palace, which was built to bask in the glow of the setting sun. To the north of the court is the theatre area, and to the south some large storage pits, used principally for grain.
If you climb the Grand Staircase – and unlike at Knossos, you can — then to the right are the store rooms that were actually within the palace, holding more grain and also oil, in the vast storage jars or pithoi that can be seen in almost every museum on Crete. It is not known for sure if the commodities stored at the palace were given to the royal family by way of a tithe, or if the building acted as a secure storage area for everyone in the area to use.
Phaistos Minoan Palace
The Central Court
To the east of this storage area you will enter the impressive Central Court, a vast open area whose paving dates from 1900-1700BC. If you walk to the southern end of this then there are good views over the plain, still a fertile source of grain and oil today. It is the largest and most fertile of all the plains in Crete, producing huge crops of olives, of citrus and other fruit, and many types of vegetable.
To the north of the Central Court the area becomes a little confusing, as the remains are on two levels, but beyond the small South Court which you may be able to identify are the royal apartments. There are many chambers and ante-chambers here, one set of rooms belonging to the king and another to the queen.
If you continue walking past these almost to the edge of the site, you can turn right and see on your right the walls and foundations of a row of small buildings. These were the palace archives, where the Phaistos Disc was found, a small object that preserves its secrets, just as the palace of Phaistos preserves its own air of mystery and beauty.
The Phaistos Disc
The Phaistos Disc in Irakleio’s Archaeological Museum
Only about 6 inches in diameter, the Phaistos Disc is one of the most important and intriguing items ever found on Crete. It dates from 1700-1600BC and was uncovered in 1903. Baked in clay, the disc has spirals of pictograms on either side, including flowers, people and animals. No-one has ever cracked the code, but the most favoured belief is that it was a religious object of some kind, with the symbols perhaps being the words to a prayer or hymn. You can see it on display in the Irakleio Archaeological Museum.
Malia on the north coast of Crete is a contrasting town which is renowned for its nightlife and beaches but also has the Minoan Palace of Malia.
Malia
Modern Malia
Malia, located on the northern coast of Crete about 35 kilometers east of Irakleion, is one of the island’s most lively seaside destinations. Today, it is best known as a resort town that attracts visitors from across Europe and beyond. Its reputation rests on a combination of sandy beaches, energetic nightlife, and a welcoming atmosphere that blends traditional Cretan hospitality with modern tourism.
The heart of Malia is its long stretch of golden sand beach, which extends for several kilometers along the coast. The beach is wide and well‑organized, with sunbeds, umbrellas, and water sports facilities. Families enjoy the shallow waters, while younger travelers often gravitate toward the beach bars and clubs that line the shore. The town’s main beach is complemented by smaller coves and quieter stretches of sand to the east and west, offering options for those seeking relaxation away from the crowds.
Modern Malia
Malia’s nightlife has become legendary, particularly along “Beach Road,” the central strip where bars, clubs, and restaurants cluster together. During the summer months, the atmosphere is electric, with music spilling out into the streets and visitors dancing until dawn. This reputation has made Malia a favorite among younger travelers, but the town also caters to couples and families with a wide range of accommodations, from budget hotels to luxury resorts.
Beyond the nightlife, Malia retains elements of traditional Cretan life. The old town, set slightly inland from the beach, is a maze of narrow streets lined with whitewashed houses, small chapels, and tavernas serving local specialties. Here, visitors can sample dishes such as moussaka, grilled lamb, and fresh seafood, often accompanied by raki, the local spirit. The contrast between the bustling beach strip and the quiet charm of the old town gives Malia a dual identity: both a modern resort and a place where Cretan traditions endure.
Tourism has brought prosperity to Malia, but it has also created challenges. The influx of visitors during peak season can strain local infrastructure, and the town has had to balance its reputation as a party destination with efforts to attract a broader range of travelers. In recent years, there has been a push to highlight Malia’s cultural heritage and natural surroundings, encouraging visitors to explore beyond the beach and nightlife. Excursions to nearby villages, hiking trails in the mountains, and visits to archaeological sites have become increasingly popular, helping to diversify the town’s appeal.
Malia Palace
Malia Palace
While modern Malia thrives on tourism, its historical significance lies in the nearby Malia Palace, one of the major Minoan palatial centers of Crete. The site, located just a few kilometers east of the town, offers a fascinating glimpse into the island’s Bronze Age civilization.
Malia Palace
The Palace of Malia was first constructed around 1900 BCE and later rebuilt after being destroyed by an earthquake around 1700 BCE. It is the third‑largest Minoan palace on Crete, after Knossos and Phaistos, and covers an area of approximately 7,500 square meters. Excavations began in the early 20th century under Joseph Hazzidakis and were later continued by French archaeologists such as Fernand Chapouthier and Oliver Pelon. The site has revealed a wealth of information about Minoan society, architecture, and daily life.
Malia Palace
Unlike Knossos, which has been heavily reconstructed, Malia Palace remains largely in its original state, allowing visitors to appreciate the ruins without modern embellishment. The layout includes a central courtyard, storerooms, workshops, and residential quarters. The palace was a hub of political, economic, and religious activity, serving as the administrative center for the surrounding region. Large storage rooms, known as magazines, contained giant clay jars (pithoi) used to store oil, grain, and other staples, reflecting the palace’s role in managing agricultural production.
Bee Pendant
One of the most famous finds from Malia is the “Bee Pendant,” a gold ornament depicting two bees holding a drop of honey. This beautiful piece of jewelry, now housed in the Irakleion Archaeological Museum, exemplifies the artistry of Minoan craftsmen and the symbolic importance of bees in their culture. Other artifacts include pottery, tools, and weapons, all of which shed light on the daily lives of the Minoans.
The palace was eventually destroyed around 1450 BCE, possibly due to natural disasters or conflict, and the site was later occupied by the Mycenaeans. Today, visitors can walk among the ruins, tracing the outlines of rooms and courtyards, and imagining the grandeur of the palace in its prime. Although the site is currently undergoing restoration and is closed until the end of 2025, it remains a key destination for those interested in ancient history.
Malia Palace is part of the UNESCO World Heritage listing of Crete’s Minoan Palatial Centres, recognized for their cultural significance and contribution to our understanding of early European civilization. Its importance lies not only in its size but also in its role as a window into the complex society that flourished on Crete more than 3,500 years ago.
Malia Palace
The Milatos Cave
A short drive east of Malia brings you to the village of Milatos and its famous cave. Known as the Milatos Cave or Rapas Cave, this site combines natural beauty with poignant history. The cave is located about 3 kilometers from the village and is accessible by a path that winds through olive groves and rocky terrain.
Milatos Cave is notable for its role in the Cretan resistance against Ottoman rule. In 1823, during the Greek War of Independence, hundreds of local residents sought refuge in the cave to escape advancing Turkish forces. Tragically, many were killed when the cave was besieged, and the event remains a somber chapter in Cretan history. Inside the cave, a small chapel commemorates the victims, and a monument contains the remains of those who perished.
Beyond its historical significance, the cave is also a striking natural formation. Visitors can explore its chambers, which feature stalactites and stalagmites, though a flashlight and sturdy shoes are recommended due to the uneven terrain. The atmosphere inside the cave is both eerie and moving, as the natural beauty contrasts with the tragic events that took place there.
Today, Milatos Cave is a popular excursion for those staying in Malia or nearby resorts. It offers not only a chance to experience Crete’s rugged landscape but also an opportunity to reflect on the island’s turbulent past. The nearby village of Milatos, with its fishing harbor and tavernas, provides a peaceful counterpoint to the cave’s somber history, making the visit both educational and rewarding.
The See Greece guide to Hania (or Chania) including its museums and other attractions, shopping opportunities, and transport links with the rest of Crete.
Hania Harbour
Hania, on the northwest coast of Crete, is one of Greece’s most enchanting towns. It offers a blend of Venetian and Ottoman history, lively museums, a picturesque harbour lined with cafes and restaurants, vibrant shopping in its Municipal Market, and excellent transport links including an airport, ferries, and cruise ship arrivals.
Chania or Hania?
You can use either version of the name. We’ve also seen it spelled as Khania. In Greek it’s Χανιά, which is pronounced most closely as Hania, so that’s the version we’ve gone with.
Hania Harbour
Location of Hania
Hania lies on the northwest coast of Crete, Greece’s largest island. It is the second-largest city on Crete after Irakleion and was the island’s capital until 1971, when Irakleion took over. The town is nestled between the White Mountains (Lefka Ori) and the Cretan Sea, giving it a dramatic backdrop of rugged peaks and sparkling waters. Its strategic position made it a hub for successive civilizations—Minoan, Venetian, Ottoman, and modern Greek—each leaving their mark on the architecture and culture.
Brief History of Hania
Hania’s roots lie in ancient Kydonia, a powerful Minoan city mentioned by Homer. Archaeological evidence shows settlements here as early as 3650 BC, with the hill of Kasteli serving as the nucleus of Minoan life. Kydonia thrived as a center of trade and craftsmanship, producing fine ceramics and maintaining strong maritime connections.
During the Roman era, Hania enjoyed prosperity, with luxurious public buildings and a theatre. The Byzantines later fortified the area, though Arab raiders briefly seized it in the 9th century. In the 13th century, the Venetians transformed Hania into a fortified port, constructing the iconic harbour, arsenals, and defensive walls that still define the Old Town. Their rule lasted for centuries, leaving behind elegant architecture and a cosmopolitan spirit.
The Ottomans captured Hania in 1645, adding mosques and Turkish houses to the urban fabric. After centuries of Ottoman rule, Crete united with Greece in 1913, and Hania became the island’s capital until 1971. Today, the town’s layered history is visible in its streets, where Minoan ruins, Venetian fortifications, Ottoman mosques, and neoclassical mansions coexist, making Hania a living museum of Mediterranean heritage
Hania Sunset
Museums and Attractions
Hania is rich in cultural institutions and historic sites:
Archaeological Museum of Hania
Archaeological Museum of Hania
The best finds from Kydonia are on display in Chania’s Archaeological Museum, which is also rich in remains from several other sites in western Crete. It has a good pottery collection, and several good sculptures and mosaics. The building itself is also of interest, although the outside belies the interior. It was once the Venetian Church of San Francesco, and later converted by the Turks into a mosque. The remnants of a minaret and a fountain can be seen in a lovely little courtyard.
Maritime Museum of Crete
Hania Maritime Museum
The bulk of the harbour shows Chania’s Venetian aspect, especially in the restored Firkas fortress. It’s an interesting if small place to wander round, with good views of the harbour, and in one of its towers is the Nautical Museum with its collection of model ships and accounts of sea battles in the waters off the coast.
Even if you are not a naval type, it is worth visiting to see an incredibly detailed scale model of Chania as it was in the 17th century, town as well as harbour, including the 16th-century Venetian Arsenali, or boat yards, which can also still be seen on the harbour. The Nautical Museum also contains one of the most vivid accounts of the Battle of Crete that you will see anywhere on the island.
Folklore Museum
Hania Folklore Museum
Chania also has a Folklore Museum, tucked away in the southeastern corner of the city but well worth walking out to, perhaps stopping off on the way at the busy Central Market. The museum is housed in what was obviously a once-elegant town house, when this area was one of Chania’s more fashionable districts in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
In among the memorabilia of local worthies, meaning little to the foreign visitor, are some gems including excellent information on the Cretan resistance Movement during World War II, and the earlier struggle for independence from the Turks. Some of the graphic displays of events during the German occupation are not for the faint-hearted, but will tell you a lot about the Cretan spirit and character.
Historical Museum & Archives
Offers insights into Crete’s modern history, including the struggle for independence.
Byzantine & Post-Byzantine Collection
Displays icons, coins, and jewelry in another Venetian-era church.
Firkas Fortress
A Venetian stronghold at the harbour entrance, now part of the Maritime Museum.
Mosque of the Janissaries
Mosque of the Janissaries in Hania
Also known as the Mosque of Kioutsouk Hasan, this is a striking Ottoman-era building on the harbourfront. It dates from 1645 and the oldest surviving Ottoman building on Crete. It was damaged during World War II, then restored and for many years made an unmissable Tourist Information Centre, but today it is used occasionally for exhibitions.
The Harbour
Hania Harbour
The Old Venetian Harbour is Hania’s crown jewel. Built in the 14th century, it is lined with pastel-colored buildings, a lighthouse, and Ottoman-era structures. Today, it’s the heart of the town’s social life. Around the harbour are plenty of cafes, tavernas, and restaurants. Dining here is as much about atmosphere as food—the sight of fishing boats, the lighthouse at sunset, and the buzz of locals and visitors.
Where to Stay in Hania
Shopping in Hania
Shopping in Hania is centered on the Municipal Market (Agora), built in 1913 in the shape of a cross. It remains a vibrant hub where locals buy fresh produce, meats, cheeses, and herbs. For visitors, it’s a treasure trove of souvenirs:
Cretan honey Especially thyme honey, a local specialty.
Leather goods Including sandals and bags, often handmade.
Knives The traditional Cretan knife, often engraved with a mantinada (poetic verse).
Pottery and textiles Hand-painted ceramics and woven fabrics from artisan workshops.
Wine and raki Local spirits and wines make excellent gifts.
Beyond the market, the Old Town’s narrow streets are filled with boutiques selling jewelry, art, and modern fashion.
Transport Links
Airport Hania is served by Chania International Airport (Ioannis Daskalogiannis), located about 14 km east of the town. It connects Crete with Athens, other Greek islands, and many European cities.
Ferries Ferries operate from Souda Bay, the port of Hania, to Piraeus (Athens). This is one of the main maritime gateways to western Crete.
Cruise Ships Cruise ships dock at Souda Bay, about 15 minutes from Hania’s Old Town. Shuttle buses usually bring passengers directly to the harbour area.
Links to Other Parts of Crete Hania is well connected by road to other parts of Crete:
– Irakleio: About 2.5 hours east by bus or car.
– Rethymnon: Roughly 1 hour east.
– Southern Crete: Roads lead to Sfakia and Paleochora, gateways to beaches and gorges.
Public buses (KTEL) provide reliable service across the island, and taxis or private transfers are widely available.
Crete’s capital and largest city is Irakleio, also spelled Iraklion or Heraklion, a large and busy place with good restaurants, museums and historical buildings.
Iraklion Port and Venetian Harbour
Dust and noise are the two words most often used in describing Crete‘s capital, Irakleio, which does have its share of both: hardly surprising in what is the fifth largest city in Greece. It does also have lots of attractions, and no one should write it off on account of first impressions, which may not be favourable. In this it is like Athens, which it takes time to get to know. Irakleio suffered very badly from bomb damage during World War II and so does have a lot of unappealing modern concrete buildings, but it also has great character.
Irakleio History
Church of Agios Minas in Irakleio
Irakleio has been settled since Neolithic times, and it flourished as the harbour for the Minoan centre at Knossos 5km to the south. It was conquered by the Venetians in the 13th century, and they made it their capital for the Aegean, building a fort to protect the harbour in 1303. The fort that stands there today dates from the 16th century, after the first was destroyed in an earthquake, and it played an important role in the city’s history. See our full page on Irakleio’s Harbour and Venetian Fortress.
Fishermen in Irakleio Harbour
It was the focal point when the entire city was placed under siege by the Turks in 1647, a siege which was to last until 1669, when the Venetians were finally forced to surrender their Aegean capital, and the rest of Crete, to the Turks. It is said that 30,000 Cretan and Venetian residents of the city lost their lives, and so too did 118,000 Turks, giving some idea of the ferocity with which the city inside its walls was defended.
The Arsenal and City Walls
Alongside the harbour is another Venetian structure, the Arsenal, constructed in the 16th century as the place where the shipping fleet for the Aegean was both built and repaired. From the same period are Irakleio’s magnificent city walls, which run for 3km around the old part of the town and which it is possible to follow for their whole length, passing several impressive gates such as the Porta Kenouria, where the walls are 18m (59ft) high and up to 40m (131ft) thick. By the Martinengo Bastion at the southernmost corner of the walls is the grave of Nikos Kazantzakis, who died in 1957 and asked to be buried on this spot. See our page on the Venetian Harbour and Fortress.
Irakleio Archaeological Museum
Irakleio’s Archaeological Museum
One of Irakleio’s undoubted highlights is the Archaeological Museum, hardly surprising given the rich finds that have been made all over this large and historically significant island. Most of them have ended up on display here, and it is an immense collection that warrants devoting some time to it, perhaps even two short visits instead of one longer one. It can also get very crowded with tour groups, combining it with a visit to Knossos, so if your timetable is flexible then a good time to visit is mid-day when tour groups are eating lunch.
The rooms are arranged roughly in chronological order, and good guides and plans are on sale at the entrance. If you have limited time then be sure not to miss the Town Mosaic, which goes back to the Old Palace period (2000-1700BC), and the breathtaking Hall of Frescoes. These Minoan frescoes are both historically fascinating and artistically superb, but the whole collection provides a deeper insight into the sophisticated and powerful Minoan civilisation.
The museum is close to Plateia Eleftherias (Liberty Square), which is very much the heart of Irakleio. It’s a busy traffic hub day or night, but pedestrianised and tree-shaded in the centre, which really comes alive in the evenings when the bars and restaurants open and half the city seems to congregate here for the evening volta, or stroll.
Fountain Square
It is only a short stroll from Plateia Eleftherias to the city’s other main square, Plateia Venizelou, also known by its unofficial name of Fountain Square. The fountain in question was originally built in the 17th century by the Venetian governor of the time, Francesco Morosini, and has recently been restored to its full glory.
The Loggia
The Venetian Loggia in Irakleio
Nearby is one of the city’s other squares, Plateia Kallergon, besides which is the Loggia. This 17th-century building was originally a meeting place for the Cretan nobility and has been lovingly restored and now serves as the city hall. The square also has a Turkish fountain, and if you need some respite from the traffic-filled streets then also just off this square is the El Greco Park, which also offers some shade against the heat of the day.
Agios Titos
Church of Agios Titos in Irakleio
Behind the Loggia is the church of Agios Titos, which was originally built in the 16th century and dedicated to the island’s patron saint who brought Christianity to Crete. It contains the saint’s relics and is therefore a significant holy place to Cretans, to be treated with respect.
Historical Museum of Crete
Historical Museum of Crete
From Plateia Venizelou, Chandakos leads towards the waterfront and, just to the right, the Historical Museum of Crete. This is not as impressive in scale as the Archaeological Museum, but well worth seeing to get a picture of Cretan life through to today. There are plenty of examples of works of art from the Venetian period, as well as a good collection of Byzantine art.
The highlight, however, is the only painting by El Greco (1541-1614) to be found on the island where he was born. The Monastery of Saint Catherine on Mount Sinai warrants its own room and a reverential display, and is a powerful work that was painted in about 1570 and shows the Byzantine influences that preceded his influence by Titian. The work is also referred to by several different titles, including The Landscape of the Gods-Trodden Mount Sinai and View of Mt Sinai and the Monastery of St Catherine. To learn more visit our page all about Irakleio’s Historical Museum.
The Monastery of Saint Catherine on Mount Sinai by El Greco
No museum on the history of Crete could ignore the events of World War II and in particular the Battle of Crete. The Historical Museum tells the full story of the suffering on the island in sometimes shocking detail, illustrated with contemporary photographs. See our page on the Battle of Crete.
Another fascinating glimpse of more contemporary Cretan life is given in a reconstruction of the study of Nikos Kazantzakis, indicating the esteem in which he is held on his native island.
Other Irakleio Museums
Irakleio boasts other museums worth seeing if time allows, including the Museum of Religious Art and the Museum of Natural History. The former is appropriately situated next to the city’s 19th-century cathedral of Agios Minas and contains an extensive collection not just of Byzantine icons and frescoes but fins examples of religious manuscripts too.
Museum of Religious Art (left) and the Church of Agios Minas (right)
The building itself is equally notable, being a 16th-century church built by the Venetians in honour of St Catherine, the same saint for whom the monastery beneath Mt Sinai is named. This church too was originally a monastery, which was renowned as a centre for art and learning and is where El Greco studied.
The Museum of Natural History has good displays on the flora and fauna not just of Crete, which is incredibly well-blessed in this respect, but of the Aegean Sea too.
The Battle of Crete during World War 2 took place with an airborne invasion over Maleme on the north coast of the island.
Battle of Crete: Maleme Military Cemetery
The events that took place on Crete during World War 2 were among the most dramatic anywhere in Europe, and inspired several books. Notable among these was Ill Met By Moonlight by W Stanley Moss, which tells of the heroic – if not foolhardy – kidnapping of the German Head of Command, General Karl Kreipe, by British and Greek resistance fighters working together.
This took place on 26th April, 1944, when Moss, aided by soldier and subsequently travel writer Patrick Leigh Fermor (both disguised as Germans) captured Kreipe and drove him in his staff car through 24 German military posts and away into the Cretan mountains.
Sir Winston Churchill
However, the most dramatic event began on 20th May, 1941, when the largest airborne invasion in military history took place in the skies over Crete. The island had been a refuge for Allied troops being pushed back as the Germans moved through Greece, as the British Prime Minister and war leader, Sir Winston Churchill, regarded it as an impregnable island fortress. With 32,000 Allied troops there in the Spring of 1941, it seemed a safe place to recover and regroup.
The Battle for Crete
German Military Cemetery near Maleme
Hitler had other plans. He had already tried several sea attacks against Crete, all of which had been driven back. He knew the strategic importance of the island, with its access to the east and west of the Mediterranean, and to the North African coast. He therefore launched his massive airborne attack, flying tens of thousands of troops over northwestern Crete, who parachuted down, most thickly in the skies over Maleme. Here was a vital airstrip that the Germans had to take in order to secure safe landing for even more troops, backed up in the skies.
It was a bloody time, as the Allies combined with the brave Cretan villagers and fought off the paratroopers with whatever weapons they could lay their hands on: pitchforks, clubs, knives, guns, axes. Women, children, even priests joined in the battle, and there are still people around today who can tell you exactly what it was like to be there.
It was to no avail, though, as the vast numbers of Germans were ultimately too much for the local defenders, although the Battle of Crete raged for ten days. Eventually, having taken that crucial Maleme airstrip, the German troops swept through Crete as they had swept through Greece, forcing the Allies to retreat even further, and eventually evacuate the island, mostly to the safe haven of Alexandria in Egypt.
German Reprisals
German reprisals were swift and brutal. In many villages they would round up the men, shooting ten of them for every German that had been killed. Nor were the women and children spared. But the Cretans are an incredibly proud people, much more so even than the average Greek, and the resistance fighting against the German invaders continued throughout the war. Today there are poignant reminders in countless towns and villages – memorials to the Cretan people who gave their lives for the freedom of their island.
See Greece visits the Zacharioudakis Winery near Ancient Gortina in southern Crete, and does a vineyard tour arranged by our guide from Go Crete.
The Zacharioudakis Winery Visitor Centre
‘What’s the point of a guy coming from France to taste cabernet sauvignon on Crete?’ That’s the question asked by Andreas Zacharioudakis, which is why the winery founded by his father Stelios and his mother Victoria grows predominantly indigenous Cretan grape varieties.
‘Ours is the newest winery in Greece,’ says Andreas of the vineyard which his parents started in 2008/9, though planning had been going on since 2000. ‘It was the biggest financial investment in a winery ever in Greece.’
Andreas Zacharioudakis at The Zacharioudakis Winery on Crete
One look at the spectacular tasting rooms tells you it was money well spent. The stylishly-designed modern building stands at a height of 1640 feet (500 metres) on the top of the Orthi Petra hill near the village of Plouti and not far from the site of Ancient Gortina. The winery is only about 16 miles (26 kms) from the resort of Matala, too.
On the slopes of the hill all around the winery, covering an area of 49 acres (20 hectares), the vines are planted, and they are 100% organic.
Vineyards at The Zacharioudakis Winery on Crete
‘We are completely organic,’ Andreas says. ‘Everything is done by manual labour. We have never had a problem with disease so far. From a profit point of view, it would be better to be non-organic but our philosophy is to do things the natural way, the old way.’
This was an attitude we came across time and time again on our travels around Crete, from wine-makers, from farmers, from restaurants. For them, unlike in many western countries, organic has never gone away. That’s just the way you do it, to get the tastiest results.
The Zacharioudakis Winery Tasting Room
Andreas’s father Stelios was born in a neighbouring village, and was the son of a farmer. They produced wine for the family but as he grew up he became more passionate about wine. He worked as a journalist in Italy, where his interest in wine grew. He then came back to Crete, to where he grew up, and created the first newspaper in the local area. He still runs the paper as well as the winery.
‘At first,’ says Andreas, ‘he wanted the tables in the tasting room to be white, so you could see the colours of the wine, but then he said No, make the people hold the wine up to the windows to see the colours of Crete.’
The Zacharioudakis Winery Tasting Room
So, we sat down at one of the tasting tables and prepared to see the colours of Crete. First up was a white wine named after the mountain we’re on, Orthi Petra. ‘This,’ explains Andreas, ‘is 60% sauvignon blanc and 40% the Cretan grape vidiano, and is 13.5% ABV. It has won two gold and three silver medals in Munich, Berlin and Bordeaux. It’s fruity on the nose with the gentle gooseberry aroma of sauvignon blanc. When you taste it, it’s similar on the palate: gooseberry, citrus, pineapple.’
It’s a deliciously subtle and complex wine, which shows just how far Cretan wines have progressed over the years. Next in line is another white, this one 100% vidiano grapes.
‘You can only find this grape on Crete,’ Andreas says. ‘It is musty and oaky, because it spends five months in French oak barrels. This one has won three gold, three silver and one bronze medal between 2009 and 2014. It is quite strong at 14.5%.’
The Zacharioudakis Winery on Crete
We felt that it started oaky in the mouth and ended by being quite crisp. It was fascinating to taste these unusual Cretan grape varieties, as the next glass was a red wine that was 100% from kotsifali grapes.
‘This is also strong, at 14.5%. It is aged for six months in French barrels and then for another three years in the bottle. This is another Cretan grape variety. It is dry, like the landscape. It is very slightly sour, with some tannins. It coats the mouth, is soft and rich.’
The Zacharioudakis Winery Tasting Room
Finally we taste a rosé, which is made up of 40% kotsifali and 60% syrah grapes. The result is a strong rosé, at 14%, with an aroma rich in fruit, like strawberries, which follows through on the palate. It’s full of punchy flavours, and far from insipid, like some rosés can be. We’re not surprised when Andreas tells us it’s won numerous Gold and Silver Medals at wine tastings around the world.
The Zacharioudakis Winery on Crete
After the tasting we walked along the track that goes from the winery around through the vineyards. At one point Andreas went off the track and beckoned us to follow him on a path through the vines.
‘This is a 3,000-year-old olive press,’ he says. ‘When we planned the vineyard we had to have the archaeologists survey the land to make sure there were no precious ruins beneath. This is normal in Greece. What they found and identified was this olive press, and they decided it was best to leave it where it is, rather than move it.
The Zacharioudakis Winery on Crete
‘Five people worked for three years to create the vineyards,’ Andreas continues. ‘There were three Greeks and two Albanians. One of the Albanians still works in the winery and is now becoming a Greek citizen.
Andreas pauses and looks around at the vines, under the clear blue Cretan sky and the hot sun. ‘I planted the first vine here when I was just eight years old,’ he says with great pride.
For more information and to book a tours, visit zacharioudakis.com. For longer tours of Crete specialising in wine, food, history, music or any other topic, contact Go Crete.
There are lots of flights from Athens to Santorini as well as a ferry service from Piraeus, with flights to Santorini leaving from Athens International Airport.
The reason for the number of flights from Athens to Santorini is because Santorini is one of the few islands in the Cyclades to have an airport of international standard. Anyone headed to Ios, for example, will have to fly to Santorini from Athens and then take the hour-long ferry ride to Ios.
Flights from Athens to Santorini
Obviously flight schedules from Athens to Santorini change regularly and you should check direct with the airlines, but at the time of writing the main airlines operating Athens-Santorini flights are:
Aegean Airlines
Aegean Airlines operates seasonal flights to Santorini from various European destinations, including Thessaloniki within Greece, as well as from Athens. Under normal circumstances there are daily flights between Athens and Santorini, with several per day in the summer season, though fewer out of season. The journey time is 45 minutes.
Olympic Air
Olympic Air is owned by Aegean Airlines and although they operate as separate companies, the flights (and prices) from Athens to Santorini are usually identical.
Ryanair
The Irish budget airline Ryanair flies between Athens and Santorini daily in the summer season and several times a week otherwise.
Sky Express
Sky Express is a Greek airline based in Athens and Crete, and with flights between numerous Greek destinations as well as to several European countries. Its many Greek destinations range from Alexandroupoli to Zakynthos, including Santorini. In high season it might operate as many as nine flights per day between Athens and Santorini, though fewer out of high season.
Volotea
Volotea is a Spanish budget airline but its route network does include flights between Santorini and Athens. Flights operate from May to October, with 2-3 per day.
Santorini (Thira) International Airport
Santorini Airport is about 5 km (3 miles) southeast of the main town of Thira, less than a 10-minute drive to Thira and about 25 minutes if you’re going to Oia. There are buses and taxis linking the airport with Thira, and many hotels operate shuttle buses when they have guests arriving or departing. You can also rent cars at the airport, with companies including Hertz, Europcar, and Sixt all having offices at the airport.
In addition to the Athens-Santorini flights, you can fly to Santorini from Thessaloniki, Rhodes, Crete, and Mykonos. In the holiday season there are also charter flights from numerous European cities direct to Santorini. Out of season you’ll need to fly to Athens and get a connection to Santorini.
Santorini Airport opened in 1972 and by 2024 it was being used by almost three million passengers a year. The IATA code for the airport is JTR.
Athens to Santorini Ferry
You can catch the Athens to Santorini ferry in Piraeus. Santorini also has ferry connections with Thessaloniki, Crete, Mykonos, Rhodes, and many other Greek islands. The ferry from Athens to Santorini takes about 5 hours if using the more expensive high-speed service, or 8 hours on the regular car ferry.
Note that you must buy your ticket in advance, and you cannot get a return ticket, only two singles. In Piraeus you can buy a ticket from one of the ticket agent offices near gate E7 of the port, which is close to both the metro station if coming from central Athens, and close to the stop for the X96 airport bus. On Santorini there are numerous agencies where you can buy ferry tickets.
You can also buy tickets online through websites like Ferries in Greece.
Corfu Town is the capital of Corfu and of the Ionian Islands and has museums, two forts, several museums, churches, and many other attractions.
Corfu Town
Nowhere is the pan-European background in the Ionians more evident than in Corfu Town. (It’s actually a city but everyone calls it Corfu Town.) It may have hole-in-the-wall Greek tavernas in its back streets, and its residents may celebrate Easter even more exuberantly than they do elsewhere in Greece, but it also has very strong influences from Britain, France and Italy in its architecture and its cuisine. Residents of Corfu Town quite rightly regard themselves as more sophisticated than people from other Greek island capitals.
Corfu Town Esplanade
And nowhere is this mix more evident than in the very centre of town, around the Esplanade. This combination of park and town square centres on a British cricket pitch, which used to be a Venetian firing range. At the far end, on a promontory sticking out into the Ionian Sea, stands the Old Venetian Fortress, which was completed in 1559 on a site believed to have been fortified since at least the 7th or 8th centuries AD. The Old Fortress (or Palaio Frotho) can be visited, with wonderful views over the town.
Palace of St Michael and St George
Palace of St Michael and St George in Corfu Town
At the north end of the cricket pitch stands the British-built Palace of St Michael and St George, constructed between 1819-24 as the residence of the British High Commissioner at the time. It was renovated in the 1950s and now contains administrative buildings, a library, the tourist office and, in one wing, the Corfu Museum of Asian Art. This collection, unique in Greece, was built up from 10,000 items amassed by Grigorios Manos (1850-1929), a Greek diplomat from Corfu who traveled extensively in the Orient.
The Liston
The Liston in Corfu Town at Night
At the western end of the cricket pitch is a row of cafes and shops that could only be French: the Liston. It was built by a Frenchman in 1807 at the behest of Napoleon, who wanted its colonnades to echo the rue de Rivoli in Paris. Its name is Venetian, deriving from the ‘List’ of noble families whose names were kept in the Golden Book, the Libro d’Oro. The cafes along the Liston are where everyone comes to socialise, a buzz of activity at lunchtime and early evenings, with people meeting friends or relaxing with newspaper and coffee. Your coffee will cost more here than anywhere else in Corfu, but it’s the place to be.
Enosis Monument
At the southern side of the cricket pitch is a park with a splendid fountain and, nearby, the Enosis Monument. This Unification Monument celebrates the occasion in 1864 when the Ionian islands were at last united with the rest of Greece after their final period of foreign, British, rule.
Archaeological Museum
The Gorgon Frieze in Corfu Town’s Archaeological Museum
There are numerous sites and museums around Corfu Town that ought to be seen, and which would merit a stay of at least a few days. Naturally the Archaeological Museum of Corfu is one of these, although it does not have the richness in its collection that you might expect from such a thriving town. Its star attraction is worth the visit alone, though, a fearsome Gorgon frieze which was made in the 6th century BC for the Temple of Artemis in the southern suburbs of Corfu Town.
The Banknote Museum
The Banknote Museum sounds as if it might only have appeal to those with a specialist interest, but it is in fact a really enjoyable museum which tells not only the fascinating story of how bank notes are made, but also shows how Corfu’s currency reflects the political changes, including notes in German and Italian currency during World War II when inflation was rampant.
Byzantine Museum
The Byzantine Museum’s official name is the Antivouniotissa Museum as it’s in the church of the Panagia Antivouniotissa and has a small and stylishly displayed collection of icons, some as old as the 15th century. Included are examples of work by the so-called Cretan school, from the days when Venice also ruled Crete and Cretan artists would visit Corfu on their way to study with the masters in Venice.
Church of Agios Spyridon
Tower of the Church of St Spyridon in Corfu Town
One church that must be visited in Corfu Town is dedicated to the island’s patron saint, Agios Spyridon. His mummified body is contained in a silver casket inside, and on four occasions a year this is paraded through the streets to celebrate the occasions when the saint is believed to have come to the rescue of the islanders, during battles and plagues. It is a marvellous time to be in Corfu Town (Palm Sunday, Easter Saturday, August 11 and the first Sunday in November) to see the way that Greeks combine religious fervour with abundant partying.
The best drives in Greece chosen by See Greece include from Ioannina to Meteora, the Prespa Lakes, the Nestos Valley, the Amari Valley on Crete, and the Mani.
Choosing the best drives in Greece isn’t easy, as there are so many wonderful experiences, but we can at least say that we have driven over most of the Greek mainland and on many of the major islands, including Crete, so we have plenty of experience. The drive between Athens and Thessaloniki has some wonderful moments – and some awful ones too. Driving round the Pelion was also impressive. So too was… but we could go on choosing forever.
So here is our final choice of five of the best drives in Greece, in no particular order:
Best Drives in Greece
The Nestos Valley
River Nestos
The Nestos River marks the boundary between Thrace and Macedonia in north-eastern Greece, a part of the country where few foreign visitors other than the adventurous backpackers venture. It’s mainly a low-lying landscape of cotton fields and tobacco plantations, but to the north are the Rodopi Mountains that separate Greece from Bulgaria.
The two major towns at either end of the valley are Drama and Xanthi. Xanthi has a delightful eastern feel to it, letting you know that Turkey isn’t too far away, and some impressive mansions that once belonged to wealthy tobacco barons are one of the town’s most attractive features. Take the road north to Stavroupoli, where the main road meets the Nestos River and heads off into the foothills of the mountains. Or, in winter, sometimes doesn’t: winter snow can block this road, so watch for the warning road signs.
At any other time of year it’s a wonderful drive, partly through wooded areas, and passing by (or stopping to visit) several remote rural villages along the way. At Paranesti the road leaves the river valley (the river rises in Bulgaria), and instead heads south to run alongside the railway tracks and down into Drama – appropriately enough for this dramatic drive.
The Amari Valley
On Crete the tour buses head east from Irakleion to do the circular drive around the Lasithi Plateau. It is a beautiful drive, though the sheer numbers of tour buses and other drivers can spoil it a little. If you have your own wheels head west from Iraklion, and south to the Amari Valley, a much quieter but equally beautiful part of the island, also easily accessible from Rethymnon on the north coast or the resorts of Ayia Galini and Matala in the south.
From wherever you start, you can do a circular tour of the valley to get you back to base, or drive through the valley while heading from one coast to the other. Just be sure to include the town of Amari itself, the main one in the valley though no more than a large village, with a tiny main square where there’s the inevitable friendly taverna with a few rooms. Yerakari is another must-see, the centre of the cherry-growing trade in the valley. The whole of the Amari Valley is fertile and filled with orchards, olive groves and vineyards. Surrounded as it is by mountains, with the Psiloritis range to the east, it’s a fabulous place to tour and see the Crete that lies behind the tourist resorts.
See our detailed driving directions for this drive here.
From Ioannina to Meteora
The region of Epirus in north-west Greece is one of the most stunningly beautiful in the whole country… indeed, in the whole of Europe, in my opinion. There are pretty lakeside towns like Ioannina and Kastoria and the awe-inspiring Pindus Mountains. A drive east from Ioannina takes you through the mountains, over a high pass that can be closed in winter, and down into the region of Thessaly, and one of the most distinctive and magical sights in the world: the monasteries of Meteora.
Aerial View of Ioannina
The capital of Epirus, Ioannina, is one of our favourite towns. It has a character all its own, sitting on the shores of a lake in the middle of which is a small island called Nissi, which means ‘the island’. You could easily spend several days in and around Ioannina, and you should drive out on the road towards the Perama Caves – well worth stopping off to explore the cave network. The road then rises around the lake to give lovely views back of Ioannina, before winding upwards into the mountains.
Another essential stop is the mountain town of Metsovo, a ski resort in winter and another very distinctive Greek community. Beyond here is the Metsovon Pass, the highest in Greece at 1705m, but don’t set out on this drive in winter without checking the state of the roads. Even if the pass is open, the sharp bends and sheer drops can be dangerous for the driver unused to them.
At other times the rewards are enormous, not just here in the high mountains, but the descent into the lusher plains of Thessaly and, at the very end, the amazing sight of the monasteries of Meteora sitting on top of the rock formations jutting out of the plain. This has to be one of the best drives in Greece.
From Kastoria to the Prespa Lakes
Kastoria
This is only a short drive, but one that will live long in the memory. Like Ioannina, Kastoria is a pretty lakeside town of the kind not normally associated with Greece. There are handsome mansions, one of them now a folk museum, and a wealthy history because of its fur-trading past. Head north out of the town and you climb through woods and head towards Greece’s northern frontier. Greece’s brash holiday resorts seem to belong to another planet.
It’s only just over an hour or so until you start to descend, and round a corner you will get your first glimpse of the Prespa Lakes. The whole area here is a National Park, and there’s wildlife in abundance. There are small fishing communities on the shores of the lakes, and it is one of the most peaceful areas of Greece.
Prespa Lakes
A visitor centre in the main village of Ayios Germanos gives information about walks and wildlife, and you may be able to take a boat trip out onto the lakes with one of the local fishermen, if you ask around. In the middle of the Great Prespa Lake is the border point where Greece meets Albania and the new country of Macedonia. You can’t get much more off the beaten track than this.
Around the Mani The Mani in the extreme south of the Peloponnese is no longer the remote region it once was, and visitors have been quick to pick up on its rugged charms. To drive around the peninsula is to discover another very distinctive part of Greece, where tall, tower houses reach into the skies. These fortified houses were built to protect the families because of the feuds that went on in this wild west of a place for centuries. But don’t worry – they’ve calmed down a bit these days.
Coast of the Mani
The main town of the Inner Mani (the southernmost part of the peninsula) is Areopoli, so drive south from here and you will quickly come to the Diros Caves, where boats take visitors into the underground cave networks. Back on the road, the route is easy to follow as the main road is basically a circular route around the Inner Mani.
One turning to watch for is in Alika, where a right turn is signposted for Vathia. Take this diversion, as Vathia has some of the finest tower houses and you can continue on the road all the way to the end, which is Cape Matapan, the southernmost point of the Greek mainland.
Return to Alika and carry on along the main road, which then heads north up the eastern coast with fabulous coastal and mountain views. There are several small villages and some quiet beaches, with views across to the eastern-most of the three peninsulas that look like fingers dangling off the Peloponnese. The road eventually heads inland and crosses the Mani, back to Areopoli.
So there you have it: our best drives in Greece. For the moment, anyway, until we discover another one.
The region of Attica, which includes and surrounds Athens, offers visitors high hills, beach resorts, small villages, and classical sites like Marathon.
Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion near Athens
Taking in the best of Attica’s attractions, this route begins in central Athens and winds along the coast, finishing at Halkida, the gateway to the island of Evia, the second largest in Greece after Crete. If you don’t want to do the full drive, you could head back for the center of Athens when you’ve finished visiting Marathon.
The full route is about 120 miles (190 kms) and should take about three hours without allowing for stops.
From the center of Athens follow Leoforos Syngrou which heads southwest out of the centre and becomes Highway 91. This eventually swings left to take you southeast along the coast, the Athens Riviera, with the Aegean Sea on your right. It’s a welcome relief after the bustle of the city.
After driving for about 15 minutes along the coast you come to the Athens seaside suburb of Vouliagmeni. This is a popular beach resort and a welcome escape, especially in the summer, for those who live right in the city. Here you could take a break to stroll along the sandy beaches, do some windsurfing, paragliding, sailing, or scuba diving, or simply relax in an outdoor cafe.
Cape Sounion
The Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion
Continue south along the coastal road and after about 45 minutes the impressive ruined Temple of Poseidon comes into view, sitting on top of the headland of Akra Sounion, Cape Sounion, and visible from miles away. It’s a popular spot at sunset, when Athenians drive out for a meal at one of the tavernas here.
After visiting the temple return to Highway 91 and turn right. Almost immediately this becomes highway 89 and takes you north up the eastern coast of Attica. It veers inland through the fertile interior to the small but busy market town of Markopoulon, which is about 40 minutes from Cape Sounion. Here you can stock up on provisions, fill up with petrol, or have a walk round and stretch your legs.
Vineyards spread out around the town, and several tavernas will provide you with an authentic Greek lunch – no tourist menus here. Look out for a bakery and try some of the local bread for which Markopoulon is known. There are also some small chapels you can visit. Look for a bell to ring to gain admission, or ask the first person you see where the key-holder can be found.
Rafina
Rafina Harbour
When you’ve finished in Markopoulon retrace your route back to Highway 89 and turn left. Almost immediately you should turn right onto Highway 85, which brings you to Rafina, after about 30 minutes of pleasant coastal driving. Rafina is a port and a resort, and if you want to stop just follow the signs for ‘Ferries’ and you should be able to find somewhere to park.
Lots of ferries to via, the Dodecanese, the Cyclades, and the North-East Aegean Islands go from here. If you haven’t yet eaten it also makes a good spot for lunch in one of the many waterfront restaurants.
From Rafina head west out of town to reach highway 83 and continue north. In about 10 minutes, passing vacation homes and villas on the way, you reach the smaller resort of Nea Makri. Five minutes or so beyond here you reach the town and ancient site of Marathon.
The Battle of Marathon
Battle of Marathon Burial Mound
This is where the Battle of Marathon took place in 490BC, when the Athenians defeated the much larger Persian army. The route that was taken by the messenger who was sent to relay the news to Athens covers 26 miles 385 yards (42.195 kms), the length of the marathon race. The messenger died after delivering his news.
The Athenian dead were buried under a simple but large burial mound. Watch for the sign before you reach the town of Marathon itself. After visiting the site continue north on Highway 83 and you’ll soon reach the small but very informative Archaeological Museum.
Continue on the winding Highway 83 until you reach the village of Agios Stefanos, where you have a choice. Just beyond the village is the main Athens-Thessaloniki highway. This is Highway 1 but in places is confusingly also the E75. If you want to return to Athens, turn left on Highway 1.
To continue the drive turn right onto the highway and after about 45 minutes watch for a right turn marked for Evia and Chalkida, its capital. Alternatively, continuing north on highway 1 would get you to Volos and the Pelion Peninsula in about three hours. Another 2-3 hours beyond Volos and you would reach Thessaloniki.
If you want to print out a PDF of this drive then click here.
See Greece recommends where to stay in Corfu Town including hotels near the port, near the airport and in the town centre, with budget and luxury options.
The Bella Venezia Hotel in Corfu Town
Corfu Town is a lovely town and we highly recommend staying there for a few days when visiting Corfu, if you can. We once stayed there for two whole weeks while researching a guidebook and didn’t run out of things to do. We found great new places to eat every night we were there, from fancy restaurants to back-street souvlaki joints.
There’s an excellent range of hotels, too, and we moved between some of them during our visit, including some of the ones listed below. Here, then, is our list of suggestions on were to stay in Corfu Town, based on several visits.
A lovely shining curved wooden reception desk greets you as you enter the friendly Arcadion Hotel, which combines classical looks and history with modern comfort. The entrance is around the corner on Vlasopoulou, though the building looks out over Kapodistriou, the southern end of the Liston and the Spianada, an ideal location. Try to get one of the front rooms if you can, though the side ones looking out over the Old Town are also attractive.
The Hotel Arion is only a minute or so from the entrance to the Mon Repos estate, in the quiet, village-like suburb of Anemomylos. It’s a pleasant 15-minute walk around Garitsa Bay into the town centre, too. The Arion is a smart, modern hotel at a very reasonable price. It has 105 comfortable rooms, a large lounge/reception area and a big rooftop terrace with seating, a bar and wonderful sea views.
The Atlantis Hotel is conveniently placed near the port, if you’re arriving or leaving by ferry, and right on the edge of the old town too. Most of the rooms and suites have balconies and views over the Ionian Sea, and although it’s only a 2-star hotel and inexpensive, it is clean and friendly and all rooms have air-conditioning, TV, direct-dial phones and ensuite bathrooms.
The Bella Venezia is in a neo-classical mansion, once a girl’s high school, and it oozes the kind of character that many hotels these days lack. Rooms are large with high ceilings, breakfast is in a garden pergola, and it is only a short walk down to Town Hall Square.
The Hotel Bretagne is a budget but very comfortable option for those with late or early flights, as it is within walking distance of the airport. This proximity does mean that airport noise at other times can be a problem, so bring your ear-plugs. It is modern and cheerful and has its own bar and restaurant… which are also well worth knowing about if you have airport delays.
Everybody in Corfu Town knows the Cavalieri Hotel, as in summer its rooftop bar is one of the places to have a drink. It’s rather a plush place in a 17th-century mansion, and though some of the 50 rooms are small it does have class and character. All rooms have balconies, with the front ones offering lovely views of the sea and the New Fortress.
This 4-star hotel is out on the Kanoni peninsula, a 5-minute drive from the airport. Despite being about 3 kms (1.9 miles) from the town centre, and 1.5 kms (0.9 miles) from the beach at Mon Repos, it still proves immensely popular with people looking for an all-inclusive resort-style hotel, where every facility is available. It has luxury rooms and suites, and its two conference centres also make it a top business choice.
The Corfu Holiday Palace is a huge complex with a few hundred rooms, suites and bungalows, conference facilities, and the island’s only casino. Located out on the Kanoni peninsula, it overlooks Mouse Island, one of the best views in Corfu.
The swishest hotel in Corfu Town itself, in the 5-star Luxury class Hotel Corfu Palace, overlooking Garitsa Bay. It’s where visiting politicians and other dignitaries are usually housed. It has a beauty and fitness centre, two swimming pools, two restaurants, large well-kept grounds and all its rooms and suites overlook the sea.
Built in 1862 the Konstantinoupolis oozes old-world elegance, with marble steps and a spiral wooden staircase leading you up to the rooms (and an old-fashioned elevator too). It’s handy for Old Port and Old Town alike, and though some of the rooms are small they are charming, with bright blue tiled baths. The breakfast room is also bright and cheerful, and there’s 24-hour room service too. Don’t let the 2-star rating mislead you, it’s exceptionally good.
The Mon Repos Palace is a very attractive adults-only resort-style hotel with 114 rooms, all of them having TV, air-conditioning, phone, fridge, and balconies. It’s at the southern end of Garitsa Bay, very close to the Mon Repos estate and an enjoyable 10-minute walk around the bay into Corfu Town. It has its own small plunge pool and sunbathing terrace, but is right by the Mon Repos beach too.
Irakleio’s Archaeological Museum is Crete’s most important museum and contains some of Crete’s oldest artefacts, Minoan frescoes and the Phaistos Disc.
Irakleio Archaeological Museum
Irákleio’s Archaeological Museum is not only the major museum on Crete: it is the largest repository of Minoan antiquities anywhere, and stands among the finest museums of the ancient world. This magnificent collection of pottery, frescoes, jewellery, ritual objects and utensils brings the Minoan world to life.
Come here first before visiting the ancient palaces and your view of the ruins will be enlivened with a sense of the colour, creativity and richness of the fascinating culture that once flourished on this island.
Irakleio’s Archaeological Museum
The Archaeological Museum covers 5,500 years of Cretan history, dating from Neolithic times (5000-2600 BC) to the end of the Roman era (4th century AD). The two-storey building, which contains 20 galleries, was built in 1937-40 and both the collection and the present-day summer crowds have outgrown this space. There are plans to renovate the museum over the next few years to create new exhibition areas. Thus some rooms may be closed or displays rearranged while work is in progress.
Map (c) Google Maps
Visiting Irakleio’s Archaeological Museum
Buy your tickets at the kiosk in the courtyard. Beyond is a small garden and a coffee shop on the terrace behind the main building. Inside the entrance hall is a large desk where you can buy postcards and a museum guide. This is not essential, as most of the major exhibits are labelled in both Greek and English, though not in great detail.
The collection is arranged chronologically from room to room, with finds from the major Minoan periods also grouped according to the sites where they were discovered.
Irakleio’s Archaeological Museum
Timeline
Archaeologists categorise the museum’s artefacts into the following periods:
Pre-palatial period: 2600—1900 BC
Old Palace period: 1900—1700 BC
New Palace period: 1700—1450 BC
Late Palace period: 1450—1400 BC
Post-Palace period: 1400—1150 BC
Sub-Minoan, Geometric, Oriental and Archaic periods: 1150—6th century BC
Classical, Hellenistic and Roman periods: 5th century BC—4th century AD
Minoan Motifs
Look for the major motifs which appear on artefacts throughout Minoan times: the double ax, the spiral and the horns of consecration were often painted or etched on pottery, while votive figurines were shaped like bulls or goddesses with upraised arms.
Irakleio’s Archaeological Museum Room I
Room I contains some of Crete’s oldest artefacts, ranging from Neolithic stone tools and crude idols, to early Minoan pottery, figurines and jewellery from the Pre-palatial period. The ancient origins of bull sports, later an important ritual in palace life, are depicted by the small clay figures of bulls with acrobats grasping their horns, in case 12-13 and case 15.
Look out too for early signs of Minoan craftsmanship in the Vassilikí pottery from eastern Crete, with graceful, elongated spouts and deep red and black mottling, obtained by uneven firing. Also noteworthy are the early seal stones.
Irakleio’s Archaeological Museum
Irakleio’s Archaeological Museum Room II
Room II contains Old Palace finds from Knossos and Mália. The painted and glazed earthenware plaques of the Town Mosaic (case 25) depict the multi-storey dwellings of Minoan architecture. The many human and animal figurines were votive offerings found in peak sanctuaries.
Clay taximata, representing feet, arms or other parts of the body needing cures, are forerunners of the silver ones pinned to icons in churches today. Pottery is more elaborate with the white and red polychrome decoration of Kamáres ware, and the delicate ‘egg shell’ cups.
Irakleio’s Archaeological Museum Room III
The style reaches its height in Room III, devoted to finds from the same period at Phaistos palace. Here large amphorae sport elaborated spirals, fish and other designs, while the royal banquet set (case 43) includes a huge fruit stand and a jug with relief decoration of big white flowers. However, the highlight of this room is the Phaistos Disc with its intricately carved hieroglyphic characters, possibly from a ritual text. It stands alone in a central case.
Irakleio’s Archaeological Museum
Irakleio’s Archaeological Museum Room IV
Room IV contains some of the finest artworks in the museum, dating from the New Palace period when Minoan art reached its peak. As you enter, in the left corner is an exquisite gaming board from Knossos, made of ivory with gold casing and inlaid decoration of rock crystal and lapis lazuli.
Further along this wall in case 50 are two superb statues of the Snake Goddess, sacral relics from the temple repositories. Both are bare-breasted, one holding a pair of snakes in her upraised arms, the other with snakes coiled round her outstretched arms. They represent a major Minoan deity, or possibly a priestess engaged in ritual.
Case 51 contains the Bull’s Head Rhyton from Knossos (a rhyton is a libation vessel used in religious ceremonies). Magnificently carved from steatite, a black stone, it has inlaid eyes of rock crystal, nostrils of white shell and restored wooden horns.
Other life-like artworks are equally impressive, such as the alabaster head of a lioness, also a libation vessel, and a stone axe-head carved in the shape of a panther (both from Mália in case 47); and in case 56 the graceful ivory figure of an acrobat in mid-leap. New developments in pottery are represented by the Jug of Reeds, case 49, with dark colours and patterns depicting nature themes.
Irakleio’s Archaeological Museum
Irakleio’s Archaeological Museum Room V
Room V, with Late Palace period finds from the Knossos area, has an interesting model of a Minoan house at Archánes. Case 69 contains rare examples of Linear A script, the written language of the Minoans, alongside the Linear B script of mainland Greece.
Europe’s First Written Word
The earliest known written history in Europe began in Crete around 2000 BC. Known as Linear A, these inscriptions pre-date the documents of Mycenean Greece, written in Linear B, by 600 years. Nearly 1,600 Linear A inscriptions have been found to date, and although they are not fully deciphered, most are probably administrative records. Only 10 per cent, found in sacred caves and mountains, are thought to be religious in nature.
Irakleio’s Archaeological Museum Room VI
Room VI contains a range of objects from cemeteries at Knossos and Phaistos. In case 71 is a delightful clay statuette of men locking arms in a ritual dance between the horns of consecration, and another clay scene of ritual washing. Along the back wall are the bizarre remains of a horse burial, while case 78 contains a helmet made of boars’ tusks. There are also several cases of jewellery and bronze objects.
Parting Gifts
Men were buried with bronze weapons and tools, while bronze mirrors were beloved offerings for female burials.
Irakleio’s Archaeological Museum Room VII
Three enormous bronze double axes erected on wooden poles guard the entrance to Room VII. Religious objects often decorated the hallways of palaces and country villas. The most outstanding piece of Minoan jewellery ever found — the intricate honeybee pendant with two gold bees joined round a honeycomb — is tucked away among the displays of jewellery in case 101 at the back of the room.
Irakleio’s Archaeological Museum
Equally famous are three elegantly carved steatite vases from Ayía Triádha (cases 94—96): the Harvester Vase shows a procession of harvesters and musicians; the Chieftain Cup portrays an official receiving a tribute of animal skins; the Boxer Rhyton depicts boxing, wrestling and bull-leaping.
Irakleio’s Archaeological Museum Room VIII
Room VIII is devoted to treasures from the palace of Zákros. In case 109 along the wall is one of the triumphs of the museum — a stunning rock crystal rhyton with a green beaded handle, expertly reconstructed from over 300 fragments. The Peak Sanctuary rhyton in case 111 depicts scenes of Minoan worship. Room IX contains finds from settlements in eastern Crete, including Gourniá, and has a marvellous collection of seal stones.
Small is Beautiful
Despite their tiny size, seal stones display an amazing degree of craftsmanship. Animals, people, imaginary creatures and hunting or religious scenes were carved in intricate detail onto hard stones such as agate or amethyst. These were then impressed onto clay seals which were used as a signature on correspondence or a guarantee on shipments of goods. No two are alike.
Irakleio’s Archaeological Museum Room X-XII
Rooms X-XII represent the Post-Palatial periods. Here, Minoan art is in decline, and the influences of Mycenaean Greece and Egypt are apparent. Room XIII contains dozens of clay sarcophagi (coffins) painted with geometric designs. Many are shaped like bathtubs, and two have skeletons intact.
Irakleio’s Archaeological Museum Room XIV
Upstairs, Room XIV, the Hall of Frescoes, is the highlight of the museum. The long walls are lined with the famous frescoes from Knossos: the bull-leaper, the Lily Prince, the dolphins from the Queen’s bedroom. Only fragments of the original frescoes survive, with the paintings reconstructed around them, but the colour and detail in these few pieces reveal the remarkable skill of these ancient artists. In the centre of the room is the magnificent Ayía Triádha sarcophagus, which survives intact, with elaborate scenes of a funeral procession and animal sacrifice.
Irakleio’s Archaeological Museum
Irakleio’s Archaeological Museum Rooms XV and XVI
Rooms XV and XVI have smaller frescoes, including the sensuous ‘La Parisienne’ (no. 27). Also notice the ‘Saffron Gatherer’, originally thought to be a boy picking flowers but later re-interpreted as a blue monkey.
Irakleio’s Archaeological Museum Rooms XIX and XX
At the end of the Hall of Frescoes is a wooden scale model of the Palace of Knossos in all its glory. Back on the ground floor, rooms XIX and XX contain classical Greek and Roman sculpture.
Top Tip
Visit first thing in the morning, during lunchtime or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the coach-party crowds.
You don’t need to tackle all the exhibits at once. Your ticket is valid for re-entry on the same day, so take a break if you’re feeling tired or overwhelmed.
Must See
The Phaistos Disc (Room III)
Snake Goddesses (Room IV)
The Bull’s Head Rhyton (Room IV)
Rock Crystal Rhyton (Room VIII)
Hall of the Frescoes (Rooms XIV-XVI)
The Phaistos Disc in Irakleio’s Archaeological Museum
Hidden Gems
Don’t overlook the hidden gems, such as the seal stones, the honeybee pendant (room VII) or the ivory butterfly (room VIII). The museum’s garden has the ruins of the Venetian Monastery of St Francis, too.
More Information on Irakleio’s Archaeological Museum
The Snails House in Plouti near Phaistos is the best place for eating snails on Crete, as they’re cooked in several different ways.
Snails on Crete
‘Snails are the friends of Cretans. We love them. We ate them during the war.’ That’s what we’d been told by our guide on our visit to the Lyrarakis Winery a few days earlier, where literally thousands of snails were clinging to bushes near their vines. Fortunately snails don’t seem to like vines.
Cretans like snails, though, probably even more than the French love their escargots. Besides – but be careful where you say it – but the French actually import some of their snails from Greece. That French escargot in Paris might actually be a Greek koklias from Lake Pamvotis, where there’s a healthy snail export business.
The Snails House on Crete
Eating Snails on Crete
The Cretans certainly cook snails in far more inventive ways than the French do, as we were about to discover when we sat down for an unusual lunch at To Steki tou Kokliou, or The House of Snails in Plouti.
The Snails House on Crete
As you can see from the many photos we took, The House of Snails is charmingly and quirkily decorated with lots of rustic rustic touches. On one window shutter there were plants and herbs including lavender, rosemary and oregano, all growing from what looked like old jam jars. A gnarled olive tree branch was draped over a fireplace, and colourful copper jugs contrasted with faded old photos.
We had plenty of time to look round as, due to our schedule, we’d arrived at noon just as the place was opening up, though the cooking smells from the absolutely tiny kitchen made us instantly hungry. I guess you don’t need a lot of cooking space if you mainly cook snails.
Snails with Wheat Cheese
We were on a mainly food-and-drink themed tour of Crete with our excellent guide Isi, from gocrete.net. Isi will organise tours on any theme that interests you, but if you choose a food and drink one you’re in for a treat. Or rather, many treats. Isi arranged for us to tour vineyards land craft breweries, meet people like The Herb Man of Kouses, meet someone who made petimezi and someone else who made rakomelo, and today he’d slipped in a lunch at this very specialist place.
Snails with Onions
It’s obviously not a place to come if you don’t like snails, though you could still put a meal together from the side dishes they do, like fava beans and stuffed vine leaves. Today as our vegetable side dish we ordered stuffed cabbage leaves, and as they were prepared that morning like all the dishes, they were fresh and delicious. But what about the snails?
A Feast of Snails
‘Today they do four kinds,’ Isi explained, ‘ one is done in the frying pan, then put in the fire with vinegar and rosemary. It’s called bourbouristous, from the noise the snails make in the fire: bour-bour-bour…. Another dish is just boiled snails. It’s a kafeneon not a taverna or restaurant so the menu is small. For drink there is local wine, retsina, raki, different coffees of course. It would only cost you about €6-7 depending what you have.’
The Snails House on Crete
Today Isi recommends the two other snail dishes on the menu. The first is snail with onions, which doesn’t sound very appetising but Isi explains there’s more to it than onions, with herbs and spices added, making it more like a snail stifado. We’ve never had anything like that, so why not?
The Snails House on Crete
Nor have we even heard of anything like the other option, which Isi describes as snails with dried wheat and cheese. What? When it comes it looks something like a snail pilaf, and tastes somewhere between a pilaf and a savoury risotto. It’s incredibly tasty, as is the snail stifado, which is juicy and full of flavour, though we do need a hand from Isi with getting the snails out of their shells.
We highly recommend a visit to The Snails House in Plouti for a unique dining experience.
The Snails House on Crete
Eating Snails on Crete: More Information
The Snails House is in the village of Plouti in southern Crete, about a 30-minute drive from Matala and Agia Galini, and 15 minutes from Phaistos.
The See Greece guide to Zaros in Central Crete, including what to do, where to stay, and where to eat.
The View from Our Room at Keramos Studios in Zaros
Zaros in Central Crete is a lovely little town. The first time we went we were just passing through and stopped to do a walk in the Rouvas Gorge. We loved the town so much that we said we had to go back and stay sometime – so we did!
Where to Stay in Zaros
Keramos Studios in Zaros
There are a few places to stay in Zaros but we definitely recommend the Keramos Studios and you can read all about our stay there here.
Where to Eat in Zaros
Dining at Vegera in Zaros
You have plenty of choice of eating places but there’s nowhere quite like Vegera, a unique and fun dining experience that we wrote about here.
If you want trout fresh from the lake then the Votomos Taverna is right by a trout farm. It’s about a 20-minute walk or a 5-minute drive from the centre of Zaros.
A Walk From Zaros
We thoroughly enjoyed this circular walk from Zaros to the Rouvas Gorge. It should take 3-4 hours and you can read about it and get directions here. Zaros is on the E4 European Walking Path.
Officially Zaros is only a village but with a population of about 3,000 it’s more like a small town. It certainly has a lively atmosphere and stands out for several reasons.
Zaros Water
One distinctive feature of Zaros is that it has a lake. Lake Votomos is a short walk out of the village to the west, or you can drive there. They farm trout in the lake and you’ll see it on taverna menus. You have to eat trout if you visit Zaros!
The lake is fed by a mountain spring and the spring water is also bottled and well-known locally for its purity. Go into any of the shops in Zaros and ask for a bottle of the local water. You can find out much more about the lake and the area here.
Where is Zaros?
Map (c) Google Maps
As you can see from the map, Zaros is almost slap-bang in the middle of Crete. It’s in the southern foothills of Mount Psiloritis, less than an hour’s drive southwest of Irakleio. The Minoan Palace of Phaistos is a half-hour drive southwest of Zaros, The resorts of Matala and Ayia Galini are also both southwest of Zaros, and a 35-40-minute drive.
What to Do in Zaros
In truth, there’s not a lot to do in Zaros, which is part of its charm. It makes a great base if you’re exploring the area, and in our view is more interesting, more relaxing, and less expensive than nearby resorts like Matala and Ayia Galini.
One attraction is the Vrontisi Monastery, which is about an hour’s walk or a ten-minute drive northwest of town. It’s on the southern slopes of Mt Ida at a height of 550m (1,804ft) and you get wonderful views from there. No-one knows how old it is but there are references to it from the late 15th century – so it’s pretty old!
You can also hike in the area, including the Rouvas Gorge walk we mentioned. Even if you don’t stay at the Keramos Studios, call in and ask about visiting the family farm. They’re set up to do tours and it’s a fascinating insight into rural Cretan life.
Donkey Ride at the Keramos Studios Family Farm
Shopping in Zaros
There are several craft shops in Zaros and we spent an enjoyable half-hour in the weaving shop of Maria Zacharioudakis, admiring the weavings and watching Maria work at her loom.
Zaros is also home to one of the best musical instrument makers on Crete, Antonios Stefanakis. He makes lyra, mandolins, violas, bouzouki, and Cretan bagpipe, and even if you don’t want to buy an instrument he also sells CDs of Cretan music.
This Rouvas Gorge walk starts and ends in Zaros in southern Crete and should take three to four hours with a distance of eight kilometres or five miles.
Map (c) Google Maps
This exhilarating walk from Zaros takes you to a mountain monastery and up a rocky gorge, rich in flora and fauna and with beautiful views of central Crete’s Psilorítis range. If you want to make a full day of it, you can extend the walk to another mountain church. Start early to avoid the worst of the midday heat.
NOTE: These directions were correct at the time of writing but sometimes routes can change so check before setting off.
Zaros
The delightful village of Záros nestles at the southern foot of Mount Ída (Psilorítis). It is famous throughout Crete for its spring water, bottled by a local company on the edge of town. Drive west through town and park on the main road near the post office. (To shorten the walk, you could also drive to the lake).
Lake Votomos
Continue walking along the main road. Just past a modern fountain, you’ll see signs for the Idi Hotel and Lake Votomos. Turn right and follow the narrow road up the hill, past vegetable gardens and an old olive press to the Idi Hotel, about 1 km from town.
The Idi Hotel near the Rouvas Gorge
The road makes a sharp bend to the left. Continue uphill past the trout farm – its fish is a Záros speciality. The road is lined with morning glories, pomegranate and lime trees while the mountains rise up ahead. After 15 minutes you reach the small Lake Votomos, formed by the Záros springs. There’s a good taverna on the south side.
Around the Lake
Both the right- and left-hand paths lead round the shore of the lake and up stone steps. Go through the gate (and close it). Proceed along the dirt path that ascends gently above the olive groves, with views over the valley to the left and the mountain on your right.
Monastery of Áyios Nikólaos
As you round a bend you can see the monastery of Áyios Nikólaos ahead on your left. Although the complex appears modern, its church has frescoes dating from the 14th century. It is home to a small community of monks.
Chapel of Áyios Efthimios
Opposite a little wooden bridge beside the monastery, a set of rock steps on your right leads up to the tiny chapel of Áyios Efthimios, filled with icons.
Into the Rouvas Gorge
Cross the bridge. The path turns sharply to the right and zig-zags up and away from the monastery. Follow the yellow arrows and markings painted on the rocks to guide you through the boulders. You are now entering the Roúvas Gorge, which the locals also call Áyios Nikólaos gorge, after the monastery.
After a short, steep climb you come to a fence. Go right following the arrow as the path curves around the next hill. Take the stone steps up and through a gate. The 1.6 km (1 mile) path through the gorge alternates easy stretches along the herb-covered hillsides with steeper climbs up stone steps. The route is well marked with yellow arrows.
Church of Áyios Ioannis.
The path follows along the steep side of the gorge, then drops down through the ravine and doubles back on the far side. Here it becomes a wide track leading uphill to a signpost. To extend the walk, follow the trail up through the peaks for 2.7 km (1.7 miles) to the mountain church of Áyios Ioannis.
Return to Zaros
To return, follow the sign for Votomos and Áyios Nikólaos. This dirt track is narrow and steep at first, so go slow. There are beautiful views down the gorge to Záros. When you reach some bee hives, walk quickly past and turn left onto a wide dirt road that leads downhill to the monastery. Follow the sign for Votomos that leads round behind it to the wooden bridge, and return to Záros the way you came.
Print the Rouvas Gorge Walk
If you want a copy of this walk to print out then click here.
Keramos Studios in Zaros on Crete is an inexpensive two-star hotel/guesthouse with one of the best breakfasts on the island using food from the family’s farm.
Keramos Studios in Zaros
We’d visited Zaros in Crete several years earlier while researching a guidebook. We didn’t have time to stay there while we did our Rouvas Gorge Walk, but we had time to look around the small village (population about 3,000) and found it a really interesting and charming place. We were determined to return, and eventually got the chance, but this time to stay overnight.
Where is Zaros?
Map (c) Google Maps
Zaros could hardly be more central on Crete. Just look at Google’s map. It’s about an hour’s drive south-west of Irakleio, just under two hours’ drive south-east from Rethymnon, and about half an hour from Matala and Phaistos on the south coast. If you have a car, Zaros would make a great place to be based.
Keramos Studios in Zaros on Crete
Keramos Studios in Zaros
Keramos Studios was easy to find, in the centre of the small village, and there was plenty of parking nearby. Though they call themselves ‘studios’, it’s a combination of guesthouse and 2-star hotel. If you think two stars doesn’t seem much, don’t worry.
Our Room at Keramos Studios in Zaros
While the accommodation is simple, it’s super-clean, has everything you need, the family which runs it are incredibly friendly and helpful, and the room rates are remarkably cheap. We thought it was excellent value for money and would go back like a shot.
Our Room at Keramos Studios
The View from Our Room at Keramos Studios in Zaros
Our room was on one of the upper floors, and there’s a very old-fashioned elevator, which we loved. Our room key was a very old-looking and enormous metal key – yes, a real key! We had a large and comfy double bed, kitchenette (which we didn’t need), an en suite bathroom, a big wooden wardrobe, and a lovely traditional feel to it. We also had a balcony where we could sit and gaze out at the mountains.
Our Room at Keramos Studios in Zaros
Dining at Vegera
Keramos only serves breakfast so we had dinner at the Vegera Restaurant, a one-minute walk away and an inspired choice. See our separate review here: Dining at Vegera.
Breakfast at Keramos Studios
Katerina with the See Greece Team at Keramos Studios in Zaros
By the time breakfast came round, we couldn’t believe it after the feast at Vergera but we were actually hungry again. It was just as well as we’ve never been served such a breakfast spread. It didn’t surprise us when we discovered that the woman who makes the breakfasts fresh every morning is Katerina, the aunt of Vee-Vee who runs Vergera. Cooking and generosity obviously run in the family.
Katerina at Keramos Studios in Zaros
Katerina’s baking is her speciality and she starts very early in the morning in the Keramos kitchen. As well as making bread, she makes about twenty different pies, and between us we managed to sample fifteen of them (I counted)! The waiter just kept on bringing them. He more we praised them, the more he brought.
Our Breakfast Feast at Keramos Studios in Zaros
They included banana pies, several different types of cheese pie, zucchini and mint pies, marmalade pies, raisin pies, milk pies, spinach pies, pumpkin pies with honey and nuts in them, two kinds of chocolate pie, one baked and one fried – eat them with honey, the waiter told us. Chocolate with honey? Yes, it was brilliant.
And as if this wasn’t enough, we were also told to tuck into the buffet of cold meats, cheese, tomatoes, yoghourt, and honey. We admit we did take a small plate, just to keep him happy. Finally, when we assumed we’d finished, he bought us each an omelette. A chip omelette.
The Family Farm
Donkey Ride at the Keramos Studios Family Farm
Katerina’s son, Mikalis, runs the family farm and at Keramos Studios you can book a farm tour, so of course we did one before leaving Zaros. There are three types of tour available, and we did the basic tour as that’s all the time we had.
Cooking Chips for Lunch at the Keramos Studios Farm in Zaros
You can also add a cheese- and bread-making class, or go for the luxury option which adds an outing to gather wild herbs and going back to the farm and making pies with them. You might also join in wine-making, raki-making, or making olive oil, depending on the season.
Bread Fresh from the Oven at the Keramos Studios Farm in Zaros
Our farm tour was wonderful. We were accompanied by Mikalis’s two young daughters, who helped introduce us to all the animals. The chickens had chicks that were a few days old, and one of the goats had a tiny kid with it, which Mikalis picked up and brought over to us. There was a horse, too, and rabbits, pigs with little ones suckling, and donkeys.
Lunch at the Keramos Studios Farm in Zaros
Afterwards we went back to the farmhouse where Katerina was baking bread, then started frying chips and eggs, cutting cheese, and we were treated to a lovely lunch with everything from the farm: tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, peaches, bread, cheese, and of course eggs and chips. Oh, and a little raki. It was delicious and delightful. We highly recommend it, and the Keramos Studios in Zaros. It’s more than just somewhere to stay, it’s a very Greek family experience.
See Greece eats at Vegera in Zaros and finds a cheap but wonderful feast of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes cooked daily with fresh local food.
Dining at Vegera in Zaros
We were staying in Zaros on Crete at the lovely Keramos Studios, where they only serve breakfast, so we walked a minute round the corner and found the Vegera Restaurant. It had been recommended to us by our Cretan guide, Isi from Go Crete, who we knew by now could be relied on to find the best eating places around.
Vegera is run by the vivacious Vee-Vee, who is part of the family that also runs the Keramos Studios. Not only is Vee-Vee quite a character, we were soon to discover that she is also quite a cook.
Vegera Restaurant in Zaros
Dining at Vegera – the Menus
Vee-Vee doesn’t have a regular menu, but three basic menus and you choose from one of these: Full Menu with Fish, Full Menu with Meat, or Full Vegetarian Menu.
Part of the Feast at Vegera
When the restaurant opened way back in 2011 they decided they would only serve food cooked fresh that day. Zaros doesn’t get many visitors so it’s difficult to have a big menu and make everything fresh. They didn’t want to serve people yesterday’s moussaka but instead cook like you would cook at home.
We ordered some red and white wine and told Vee-Vee we would eat anything, so she gave us a mix of all menus. The restaurant was quiet and the food just kept on coming.
The Feast at Vegera
Lentil Soup at Vegera
We started with a dish of lentil soup, which smelled and tasted fantastic. Then some cheese pies arrived, followed by spinach pies, a plate of wild greens, some cabbage leaves stuffed with rice, some stuffed vine leaves, a green salad, stuffed zucchini, stuffed tomatoes, stuffed peppers, several mini moussakas, and finally a main course which was a bigger dish of beef, onion and rice.
Beef Stew at Vegera
We thought that was it, but no. Finally came a whole trout, which the town is noted for as there’s a trout farm here. It’s one of only two places on Crete where they farm trout. To round off the meal, Vee-Vee produced a bottle of raki, and a piece of chocolate cake. When we came to pay I think Vee-Vee simply made up a figure. As it was a remarkably small figure for such a feast, we didn’t worry.
Dining at Vegera
Vee-Vee is very enterprising and also gives cookery courses, organises cooking and wine-tasting holidays, and can arrange for people to eat with the locals. Find out more on the website for the Vegera Restaurant in Zaros.
